CHAPTER IX.

The Golden City. — Coast of California. — Cape San Lucas. — Manzanillo. — Alligators and Sharks. — Acapulco. — San José de Guatemala. — Escuintla. — City of Guatemala. — Indian pilgrims from Esquipulas. — Ancient mounds on the plains of Mixco. — Insurrection of Indians. — Decapitation of their leader. — Preparations for the journey across the Continent to Palenque and Yucatan.

In the forenoon of the third day of January, the “Golden City” commanded by Captain Lapidge, left San Francisco for the Central and South American Pacific ports.

We had on board, as passengers, several members of the Austrian mission, originally embarked in the frigate Danube under their chief Rear-Admiral Baron Petz, with instructions to make commercial treaties with China, Japan, Siam, Guatemala, Chili and other Spanish-American States. This part of the mission had been detached to visit Guatemala and it was arranged that upon the completion of their duties in Central America, they should rejoin the frigate in the Southern Pacific. Dr. Scherzer, the author of the narrative of the voyage of the Novara, and who had also published the journal of his travels in Central America, was placed in charge of this service. He was accompanied by Baron Herbert and Baron Ransonnet, acting as secretaries. I had already met these members of the staff and it was a mutual pleasure to find that we were proceeding to the same regions.

Soon after leaving the harbour we approached the rocks upon which great numbers of seals were seen. They watched our movements with attention, and in reply to the sound of the blows of our paddlewheels upon the water, bellowed at us defiantly.

We at first steered a course near the shore, but finding that there was a heavy ground swell, we kept about four miles out from the land, a distance sufficiently close to enable us to have a good view of the Californian hills. One night, large beacon fires were reported to be observed on the heights of the southern extremity of Lower California. The course was consequently altered towards a small bay within Cape San Lucas, and a boat came alongside conveying passengers. It was very dark and the signal fires threw a fitful glare upon the sea and our ship, at intervals. As we followed the line of the coast, the scenery became very grand as we approached the mountain ranges of Mexico. The weather was fine, the sea, rightly called Pacific, was as smooth as glass, and there was an effect of atmosphere which gave a marvellously beautiful colouring to the slopes and valleys of the mountains.

Several days after our departure from San Francisco we entered the little land-locked harbour of Manzanillo. When rounding the point we disturbed several flocks of pelicans. They gathered speed with a few flaps of their great wings and then swept over the water noiselessly without further effort, altering the direction of their flight until they were sheltered from observation by some intervening rocks.[54] Manzanillo is one of the seaports of the city of Mexico, and communicates with the capital by a road leading to Colima and Guadelajara. Near the village there is a shallow lake called La Laguna de Cuyutlan, in which exist an extraordinary number of alligators.

After our ship had anchored, some of the passengers went to look at this quiet reptile-infested lagoon, which is separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land. Captain Lapidge told us that a few years before our arrival, there had been a long continuance of westerly winds, and these together with an unusually high tide caused the sea to flow over the isthmus into the lagoon. Numerous alligators then came out from it and crossed over into the bay where they were immediately attacked by sharks, which abound on this part of the coast. He said that a fearful combat took place and for several days the bay was deluged with blood.

It had become dark before we returned from the lagoon, and we passed through the Indian village situated near its banks. The women were busy grinding, on rounded granite slabs, grains of maize; or cooking various herbs and vegetables in small earthern pans. The interior of their huts contained one room. The ground was usually bare, but in some instances a few mats were laid down. The exterior was formed of long upright poles or sticks closely bound together. The roofs, which were high and sloped steeply downwards, were made of brushwood and palm leaves.

During the night we continued our voyage near the Mexican coast, and on the morning of the 10th entered the harbour of Acapulco. In the crowded market place we saw a strange medley of races, Indians, Negroes, Ladinos, Mestizos, and Pintos who afforded ample occupation for the artistic talents of Baron Ransonnet. The Indians were of moderate stature and of a dark swarthy colour, their faces were broad, and their hair was long, heavy and very black. All had peculiarly restless eyes. We were interested in looking at the Pintos, a numerous race of Indians inhabiting the hills of this part of Mexico, who are given that name in consequence of the coloured spots on their skin. Some of them were merely spotted, others had their feet or hands almost white and of a disagreeable livid tint. In several, the dark red skin of the face was completely covered with white round spots. These spots always begin as blue marks and develop into sores, which afterwards heal into these indelible white scars. The Indians say that this kind of leprosy is inherited. In all other respects they were perfectly healthy.

At midnight on the 13th, we arrived off San José de Guatemala. Captain Lapidge lowered a boat and put us on board the nearest vessel, which we afterwards found to be a North German barque called the Gelert. Although the sea was smooth she was rolling heavily. The Golden City also gave some deep lurches, and it was difficult to get in or out of the boat. Baron Ransonnet left us with the intention of proceeding to Panama. Finally Dr. Scherzer, Baron Herbert, and myself, made the best of our position and slept—or endeavoured to sleep—for the rest of the night upon the deck of the Gelert.

The view from the barque when the sun rose above the horizon, was of a character not to be forgotten. The great range of volcanoes which, commencing in the North in Alaska, runs like a backbone near the Pacific Coast through the entire length of the American continent to the southern limits of Patagonia, is here very remarkable. The great mountains of Agua and Fuego, rising respectively over twelve and thirteen thousand feet above the sea, were immediately opposite to us. The volcano of Pacaya was on the right, and, on the left, were the distant volcanoes near the Lake of Atitlan.

Our landing was accomplished without difficulty, and in the forenoon we left San José for the capital in an open carriage, with three good horses harnessed abreast. The road ran in a straight line through the forest which covered the low tropical plain, extending for a distance of forty miles from the sea to the base of the hills. Occasionally we passed the huts occupied by the mixed race descended from African negroes and Indians, who have been given the name of Zambos.

It would be difficult to account for the existence of a race of African descent, dwelling near the Western coasts of the Pacific, if we did not possess the statements of the Spanish historians, and their explanation of the circumstances which necessitated the introduction of negroes for the purpose of working in the mines or plantations, and to take the place of the Indians who died in great numbers in consequence of the severity of their treatment by the conquerors. The features of these Zambos, resembled those of the aboriginal race of Indians, but the hair was like that of the negroes on the West coast of Africa.

At the village of Masagua, we saw several Indians who had come down from the hills. They were men of unusually diminutive stature, all of them being under five feet in height, but they were well-formed, muscular and active. The town of Escuintla was reached after sunset, and towards midnight I went to the Plaza to see the numerous groups of Indians, who were resting there for the night on their way to a church festival that was going to be held several days’ journey eastwards. The moonlight was extraordinarily brilliant, and the Indians evidently considered that its influence was dangerous, for they carefully avoided it, and sheltered themselves amongst the trees, or within the deep shadows cast by the walls of the church. The platform in front of the beautiful façade of that building, was surrounded by colonnades of palm trees. Beyond, but seemingly close at hand, were the gigantic forms of the twin volcanoes of Water and Fire.

Before daybreak we arrived at the village of Amatitlan, situated on the borders of the lake of that name near the base of the volcano of Pacaya, and in the morning we saw before us the plateau upon which stands the city of Guatemala, five thousand feet above the sea. Gradually we found that we were accompanied by Indians belonging to the various villages near the road, who were on their way to the market place, carrying on their backs heavy loads of wood, crockery and vegetables.

As we approached the gates of the city, our horses increased their pace, and the scene became very animated. Hundreds of Indians joined us from all directions, and ran by the sides of our carriage. The bells of the numerous churches were ringing for prayers. We passed the castle, the market place crowded with Indian women selling their wares, and the cathedral. Priests and sisters of mercy were hurrying along the streets; groups of soldiers carrying old-fashioned muskets, were lounging near their barracks. Our horses became excited and broke into a gallop, and finally, with great noise and speed, we drove up to the doors of the Hotel Aleman, and were soon installed in comfortable rooms opening into the central court or patio, which forms such an agreeable feature in all well-arranged Spanish inns.

Soon after our arrival Colonel Miguel Garcia y Granados, one of the Government officials, called upon Dr. Scherzer and gave us a vivid report of the political condition of the Republic. The Indians of the provinces between Guatemala and the Mexican frontier were in rebellion. A large force of them under the leadership of an Indian, named Serapio Cruz, were marching towards the city, and a battle between them and the Government troops was imminent. He also mentioned some interesting facts with respect to the late President Carrera. Carrera was a remarkable instance of native capacity. He was an uneducated Indian of obscure birth who, by sheer force of character, energy, and courage, was, at an early age, placed at the head of large bodies of Indians during the various revolutionary outbreaks which succeeded the declaration of Independence from Spain. Finally he became President of the Republic and governed the people with such obstinate determination and firmness of will that, in a few years, he was able to place the whole country under a steady system of control. In doing this he was assisted by the fact of being an Indian and having, consequently, great personal influence over the natives. He also received the support of the priests for, like all Indians, he was extremely fanatical.

Colonel Garcia told us that Carrera always had on his writing table a toy representing Louis Philippe with his hat in his hand. This toy had a rounded base and was so weighted that, when it was touched, it rolled backwards and forwards, and would thus represent Louis Philippe constantly bowing hat in hand. Carrera when engaged at his official work would frequently make the toy move, and then would say to those that stood near him “It was in that way, by too much bowing, that Louis Philippe lost his throne, I shall take care that I do not make the same mistake.” Carrera was not only supported by the priests, but also by the Spaniards, who knew that he alone could keep the Indians in subjection. Latterly he spoke much of the Indian chief Cruz, and said that he was the only man in the State who was to be feared.

During our residence in Guatemala, I was fortunate in having the acquaintance of Don Francisco Gavarrete, who held a post under the Government and was well informed upon all subjects relating to the Indians. He was also, I understood, the proprietor of some of the lands within which were the sculptured monoliths and idols of Quirigua. At the Museum in the city there was a good collection of Indian antiquities which had been found within the territories of the Republic, including several idols from Copan and Santa Cruz del Quiché. When examining these I was accompanied by him and he directed my attention to certain objects of importance. Many of them were well carved and it was clear that the sculptors were able to work and shape the hardest stone with accuracy and skill.

There was a small idol, made of hard green stone, which had been found hidden behind the high altar of a church near the town of Gueguetenango. Dr. Scherzer, who during his travels in Central America, had learnt much about the religious customs of the natives, told us that the priest of a church situated amongst the hills near Atitlan had noticed an Indian girl, who was one of his parishioners, showing an unusual fervour in her devotions, and he tried to find out the cause. He, at last, discovered that she had buried an idol in the ground close behind the church beyond the altar, so that although she appeared to be praying to what was before her in the church, she was actually addressing her requests to the idol outside. This priest considered that his Indians were by nature idolaters and that it was not practicable to prevent them from returning to their ancient habits. Señor Gavarrete said that in the Department of Vera-Paz the Indians had still the custom of erecting somewhere near the churches small idol-houses in which they kept the image of a saint. To this they offered sacrifices of meats and flowers, and at certain seasons they were accustomed to keep watch or guard at the door throughout the night.

It is more than strange that nothing has been discovered in the course of the explorations of the various ancient sites in this part of the continent, which throws any light upon the methods employed by the Indians, for the purpose of carving and shaping granite, green marble, and hard lava. No mason’s implement of any kind has been found. A few copper chisels appear to have been used for some purpose which is unknown. They could not apparently have been of much service in working stone, for the edges were rounded and the metal was soft. This question as to the system adopted by the Indian sculptors in producing such excellent work, is as inexplicable now as it was to the Spaniards in the sixteenth century.

Señor Gavarrete asked me to accept a fine obsidian spear head which had been found amongst the ruins of Quirigua. This black volcanic glass is admirably adapted for cutting and wounding purposes. I had previously picked up in an ancient earthwork outside the city, several fragments of the same substance, which had evidently been placed on the edges of wooden daggers or swords which inflicted jagged and dangerous wounds. Obsidian knives were used by the Aztec priests when offering human sacrifices to their gods. The spear head was in form and in the method followed for chipping the mineral into the requisite shape, similar to the large arrow heads made by the Indians in the western parts of North America, where obsidian is obtained near the volcanic ranges of the Sierra Nevada.

During the latter part of the month numerous groups of Indians passed through the city on their return from the pilgrimage to Esquipulas. The festival of the church at that place occurs annually on the 15th of January. It is estimated that upon an average over eighty thousand Indians are present upon that occasion. Esquipulas became an important shrine in consequence of a wooden crucifix, black from age, having been found buried in the ground near that town. It was supposed by the Spaniards that it must have been lost by one of their missionary priests when passing through that part of the province at some early period soon after the conquest. This black crucifix was placed in the sanctuary, and from some cause which has not been ascertained, it was soon held in the highest veneration by the natives.

Indians assembled there in great numbers from all parts of the country, and travelled great distances in order to be present at the festival, and to take part in the performance of the religious ceremonies.

At the Cathedral in Guatemala we frequently saw the pilgrims kneeling before the shrines and showing much devotional respect to certain images. These natives were invariably grown up men and women. They journeyed on foot, carrying with them their provisions and water-gourds. They seemed to be desirous of avoiding all contact or conversation with others. Their conduct was quiet and unobtrusive. It was their custom to pass silently through the city. At the doors of each church they stopped for a few moments, and then entered and knelt before the altar. After the completion of these acts of worship, they proceeded on their journey across the plains towards the huts and villages scattered over the slopes of the distant hills. They never halted in the street, or took any part in the daily movements of the inhabitants.

The pilgrimage is also undertaken by Indians from the distant regions of Central America. Many of them traverse hundreds of miles. There is something in the devotional nature of these ignorant aboriginal people which escapes the comprehension of those who observe them. I noticed that the Indians varied considerably in stature and complexion. The men who dwelt among the Cordilleras seemed to be of a finer race than those who were settled on the plains, and were much darker in the colour of their skin.

The most attractive spot in the city was the market place. Within the square, crowds of people, Indians and Ladinos, were daily assembled, all of them buying, selling and carrying on the ordinary traffic, with a silence and listless indifference which was in strong contrast with the life and animation of the cities in the United States. It was a constant pleasure to observe the movements of the younger Indian women, who in their appearance and demeanour, were far superior to the men. This difference arises from their habits and employment. The women have a certain kind of dignity in their manner, caused, in a great measure, by their usage of carrying water jars and pans of crockery poised upon their heads. They therefore walk slowly and hold themselves upright. This custom which begins from early childhood, and forms part of their daily life, has the result of giving them good figures and a particularly graceful movement.

The men, on the contrary, have a crouching appearance, caused by the method in which they have been accustomed, from boyhood, to carry their burdens. They relieve the pressure of the weight on their backs by means of a broad band passed over the forehead and thus, by bending forward, the load is made less oppressive. The men and boys consequently contract a stooping posture, and this presents an unfavourable contrast to the women, whose bearing is precisely the reverse. There is another circumstance which has its influence in shaping the figures of the women. They carry all small things on the open palm of the left hand, which is thrown back and held well raised up. In fact the same causes which affect the appearance of the Indians in North America are present here, but with the difference that there it is the squaw who contracts the stooping and bent figure, through carrying her children and other burdens, and it is the man who maintains the upright figure and dignified manner.

On the plains a few miles to the west of the city, in the direction of the village of Mixco, there is a large and extensive group of ancient Indian mounds of whose construction or purpose nothing is known. They have never been scientifically examined and I was not able to ascertain that any plans had been made of them. No author has alluded to them unless by a mere passing notice, and yet they seemed to throw more light upon the question of the Toltecan or Aztecan migrations than any other remains of ancient antiquities. Possibly no previous traveller in this part of Central America had also seen the mounds of Cahokia, near the eastern banks of the Mississippi, or he could hardly have failed to have observed that their resemblance is so great, and indeed so evident as to place it almost beyond doubt, that the builders of the mounds at Cahokia were of the same race as those that dwelt on the plains of Mixco.

As it would be highly improbable that any nation would migrate from lands abounding with means of food, comfort and warmth to what must have been, at that period, the comparatively inhospitable regions of North America, the tribes that constructed these mounds must have originally migrated from the valley of the Mississippi.

I was employed for several days in making a rough survey of this Indian settlement and took measurements of the inclosure. The ground plan was made in the form of an extensive and irregular parallelogram about twelve hundred yards long and five hundred yards wide. The mounds upon the sides of the greatest length vary in their dimensions. Some of them are very large and exceed forty-five feet in height. The most important are those platform earthworks at each end of the inclosure upon which may have been placed the principal communal buildings, or the houses of the Caciques. There was also a mound of an exceptional shape, situated in the interior which, from its position, may have been intended for purposes similar to those that existed within the embankments of Fort Ancient in Ohio.

When Carrera was President of Guatemala he wished to know for what object these mounds were built, and he therefore gave orders that one of the largest of them should be thoroughly examined. It was ascertained, contrary to expectation, that it was not a burial place. The only thing found in it was a large and well carved granite grindstone of the same shape as those at present used by the Indians for grinding maize. The results of Carrera’s excavations appeared to establish the conclusion that the mounds were chiefly raised for the purpose of placing dwellings upon them; and this is also, I was informed, the opinion of the natives living in the neighbourhood.

In the meanwhile from day to day the capital had been disturbed by rumours of the movements of the advancing insurgents, and it was difficult to make any decided plans with regard to my journey in the interior. It was considered by the Government authorities that it would be highly imprudent for me to attempt to pass through the disturbed provinces, as the natives were known to have become unsettled and excited. It was therefore with great satisfaction that I heard that the Indians were coming near and that a decisive battle was imminent. The President Don Vincente Cerna had taken all proper precautions, and had placed the troops under the command of his most able officer, General Solares.

On the twenty-third of January we were informed that the rebels were approaching, and that an action between the forces was expected to take place immediately. Baron Herbert and myself then went into the adjoining country with the hope of obtaining a distant view of the operations. In the afternoon we heard the firing of guns from the castle announcing to the people that the Indians were defeated, and, to prevent there being any doubts upon the subject, messengers arrived from General Solares bringing with them the head of his opponent. This practical method of assuring the inhabitants of the success of the Government troops had a good effect. It was afterwards made known that the Indians had been surrounded at an early hour and taken by surprise whilst they were amongst the ravines. Serapio Cruz fought desperately but was killed and decapitated.

Thus ended the Indian rebellion, and a period of considerable local anxiety. A political revolution is an event which may be expected to occur frequently in Spanish-American republics, but a rising of Indians in rebellion or, as it is called, a “Guerra de Castas” (war of races), is a far more serious matter, as was proved by the occurrences that happened at the time of the revolt of the Indians in Yucatan, in 1847, when their war cry was “Death to all Spaniards.”

At a dinner given at the English legation upon the evening of the conclusion of the insurrection, the subject of the state of the Guatemalan provinces was considered, with reference to the expediency of my intention to travel alone through the disturbed districts. Many of the members of the foreign legations were present.[55] It was thought that the Indian population near the Mexican frontier and amongst the remote parts of the Cordilleras would be, for some time, in a restless and excitable condition, and might be inclined to show their revenge for what had lately happened, by killing any white man who should attempt to pass through the country or who should by misadventure fall into their power. I was however informed by a Spaniard who understood the character of the native races that, although this opinion was true with respect to Spaniards, an Englishman would probably travel over the Cordilleras with safety. I accordingly lost no time in completing my preparations for the journey.

There was a difficulty in obtaining a good ambling mule, without which long rides over a rugged country would be necessarily fatiguing. Fortunately the Duke de Licignano, who was residing in Guatemala, was willing to part with one of his trained mules, and it was with great satisfaction that I saw this well-bred animal brought into the courtyard of the inn, and placed under the care of my guide.

I received from the Government an official passport or letter of recommendation to the Corregidors under their jurisdiction, which I hoped would be of service as far as the frontier.

Mexico was reported to be temporarily in a lawless condition, but I expected to find upon my arrival within its boundaries, that the authority of the republic was sufficiently established to enable me to proceed without any serious obstacles to the ruins of Palenque.