i. 298

Lobsang Tsering, Tibetan nomad, i. 192, 193

Lo Gapu, Nepalese frontier chief, ii. 75, 80

Log, by Lyth of Stockholm, i. 108; ii. 114

Long, camp at, ii. 239

Lopchak Mission, the, a lucrative monopoly, i. 55

Lopön Rinpoche. _See_ Padma Sambhava

Losar, the (New Year Festival of Lama Church). _See_ New Year Festival

Lo-shung, the, headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii. 41

Lukkong, village of, i. 70

Luma-shar country, ii. 306

Lumbo-gangri, holy mountain, view of, from the Kilung-la, ii. 69

Lumbur-ringmo-tso, lake, ii. 286; suspicions of nomads at, 287; purchase of sheep at, 289

Lundup Tsering, leader of Naktsang party, ii. 26

Lungdep-chu, the, tributary of the Indus, ii. 211

Lungdep-ningri, head of wild sheep secured on, ii. 211

Lung-ganden-gompa monastery, i. 424; hermit of the, ii. 3

Lungnak valley, i. 78

Lungnak-bupchu, stream, ii. 323

Lungring pass, ii. 40

Lung-yung, river, ii. 92

Lunkar, camp at, i. 74; arrangement of caravan on leaving, 75

Lunkar-gompa monastery, ii. 391

Lunkar-la pass, ii. 392

Lunpo-gangri, peaks of, varying views, ii. 325 ff.

Lying, successful, Tibetan admiration of, ii. 350

Mabie-tangsam-angmo, camp at, ii. 389

Ma Chi Fu, Chinese official from Lhasa, i. 400, 402

Machung village, symbolic designs at, i. 421

M'Swiney, Colonel, i. 16

Ma Daloi, Chinese commander in Shigatse, i. 296, 315; celebration of Chinese New Year, 345; orders me to leave Shigatse, 391

Madö Gemo, the fish-god of Tso-mavang, ii. 130

Ma-lung, river, i. 277

Mamer, village of, i. 36

Manasarowar, "the holy lake," ii. 106; Hindu veneration for, 110; surpassing beauty of the lake and its surroundings, 111; Tibetan superstitions as to, 112, 114; former levels, 113; our first sail on, 114; soundings and temperatures of, 115 ff.; lightning effects on, 115; wonderful natural phenomena, 116, 117; long voyage on, 121; pilgrims at, 121, 133; the lamas of Gossul-gompa astonished, 122; outlets of, 122; storm on, 123; peculiar wave undulations, 127; map of shore-line drawn, 128; origin of lake determined, 128; Tugu-gompa and Yanggo-gompa, 130, 132; Hindu homage to the, 133; terrific storm on, 136-140; succour from Gossul-gompa, 141, 142; monks' contradictory statements as to, 147; its sanctity, 151; springs of, 156, 158; underground connection with Langak-tso, 157, 168; outline of, 158; Chiu-gompa, 159; our last days on, 160; Pundi-gompa and Langbo-nan monasteries, 162, 163; amount of surface water flowing into, 163; channel between Langak-tso and, 168, 180, 186; Chergip-gompa, 165; freezing of, 180; journey along northern shore, 415

_Mani ringmos_, or stone cists covered with slabs i. 61

Mankogh-la pass, i. 80

Manlung valley, i. 78

Manuel, cook to author, i. 21; his broken English, 99; sent home from Lake Lighten, 102, 106

Maps referred to: of Nain Sing, i. 250, 258; ii, 21, 29, 41, 302, 380, 403; Ryder and Wood, 41, 85, 90, 405; Webber, 89; D'Anville, 185, 186, 327, 401; Hodgson, 401; Dufour, 401; Saunders, 402; Atkinson, 402; Krishna, 404

March, length of a day's, i. 73

Marchar-tso, lake, i. 258

Marium-chu, river, ii. 90

Marium-la pass, crossed by Nain Sing, ii. 89

Markham, Sir Clements, book by, mentioned, ii. 402

Markham, Lake, discovered and named by Captain Rawling, i. 148

Marku-tso, lake, i. 224

Marnyak-la pass, ii. 104

Marsimik-la pass, slow progress of caravan over, i. 76; disagreeable descent of, 77

Martsang-tsangpo, river, ii. 90

Marx, Dr. Karl, i. 54

Marx, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii. 417

Massieu, Madame, meeting with, at Taranda, ii. 419

Matayun, camp at, i. 39; disturbance in caravan at, 39

Mausoleums of five Tashi Lamas in Tashi-lunpo, i. 330-338

Medicine-chest, a popular, i. 29, 172; presented to the Tashi Lama, 316

Memo-chutsen, warm spring of, ii. 373

Memory, examples of marvellous, i. 151

Men-chu, river, ii. 68

Men-chu valley, camp in, ii. 69

Mendicants, Tibetan, i. 217

Mendong-gompa monastery, tent-villages of, ii. 380

Menu, a tempting, i. 184

Merke-sang, view from, ii. 388

Meteorological observations, i. 142

Minto, Countess of, i. 13, 14, 19; ii. 422

Minto, Earl of, Viceroy of India, efforts on behalf of author, i. 9; State dinner and levée by, 12; receives author as his guest, 13; his popularity in India, and State service, 13; family life of, 14; author's farewell to, and family, 19; hospitality of, ii. 420; speech to my followers, 421; good-bye to, 422

Mirage, perplexing effects of, i. 94; ii. 273

Mittag-Leffler, Professor, Stockholm University, ii. 406

Mogbo-dimrop country, i. 199; gloomy news in, 200

Mohanlal, merchant of Leh, i. 45, 53

Mohanlal, Hindu doctor, ii. 416

Mollah Shah, a former follower, met with, ii. 234

Monks in Tashi-lunpo, religious ceremonies by, i. 348 ff.; grades and number of, 351, 352; daily life of, 358, 366; great consumption of tea among, 359, 361; voluntary immurement of certain, 363; strict rule enforced, 364; manufacture of images by, 367; funeral customs, 369

Monlam-gongma, ii. 325

Monsoon rains, importance of, ii. 68

Montgomerie, Colonel T. G., ii. 89, 403

Moravian missionaries in Leh, kindness of, i. 54; admirable work among the Ladakis, 54, 55

Morley, Lord, Secretary of State for India, i. 8, 9, 11; explains refusal of permission to enter Tibet, 10

Muglib, muster of camp and inspection of animals at, i. 69

Muhamed Isa, my caravan leader, i. 30; experience and qualifications, 46, 47; his preparations for equipment of caravan, 48; watchful care exercised by, 76; his opinion of the Rajput escort, 78; way-marks erected by, 83, 149; sets out for Gyangtse, 391, 396; arranges festivities in Basang camp, ii. 47; leaves with main caravan for Saka, 47; illness and sufferings of, 52, 53; his death, 54; funeral of, 56; appreciations of, 57, 58; inscription on tombstone, 58; Guffaru appointed his successor, 59; Mohammedans hold memorial feast, 60; depressing effects of his death, 62

Muhamed Rehim, merchant from Khotan, ii. 234

Mukchung-simo massive, Kubi-gangri, ii. 100, 102

Mukden, Christmas 1908 spent in, ii. 248

Mules, comparison of Poonch and Tibetan, i. 28, 198; heavy losses of, 149, 162, 163, 197; our new animals at Gar-gunsa, ii. 220; tonic effects of whisky on, 260, 264; death of our last veteran, 261

Mundang, Nepal, caravan from, ii. 75

Munjam valley, ii. 212

Mun-tso, twin lakes, position of, ii. 380

My-chu-tsangpo, river, i. 269, 272; complicated system of, 276; confluence of Dok-chu with, 422; journey up valley of, 423 ff.; scenery of, 428; an eccentric guide, 428; commercial importance of valley route, 429

Nadsum, camp at, i. 217

Nagma-tsangpo (Chuma), river, ii. 28

Nagor, the Gova of, ii. 84

Nagrong valley, monk-doctor's tent in, ii. 296; animals and stores purchased in, 297

Nain Sing, his discovery of great lakes of central Tibet, i. 3; nomenclature of Bogtsang-tsangpo district, 206; outline of the Ngangtse-tso, 230; maps of, referred to, 250, 258; ii. 21, 29, 41, 302, 380, 403; on source of Brahmaputra, 89

Nakbo-gongrong-gangri, mountain, ii. 376

Nakbo-kongdo-la pass, ii. 376

Nakchu, pilgrims from, i. 200; purchases from, 202

Naktsang, Governor of, refuses to allow caravan to proceed, i. 236, 243, 247; previous trouble with, 238; meetings with, 242, 247; his treatment by the Devashung, 243, 251, 376; my proposals to, 244; unexpected change of front by, 249; eclipse of sun explained to, 254; cordial leave-taking, 257

Naktsang, horsemen from, our progress stopped by, ii. 26; palaver and agreement with, 27; costumes and equipment of, 31

Namachang district, camp in, i. 261

Namarding valley, camp in, ii. 107

Nama-shu, camp at, ii. 80

Namchen valley, joint camp in the, ii. 362; stores laid in at, 364; renewed discussion of my return route at meeting in, 364

Namgyal-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, service in, i. 362

Namla, village of, ii. 85

Namla-gompa monastery, ii. 85

Namreldi, valley and stream, ii. 156

Nangsang-la pass, ii. 92

Naong-rung valley, i. 263

Naong-tsangpo, river, i. 262

Nayala, mountain, i. 415

Nazer Shah, Hajji, a wealthy patriarch of Leh, i. 55; lucrative monopoly in family of, 56; services rendered to author by his sons, 56, 377, 384; ii. 217-221; commercial interests in Shigatse, i. 385

Nebuk, village of, ii. 80

Neka district, camp in, i. 214; sickness in caravan at, 214

Nema-tok, camp at, ii. 310

Nepal, the Consul of, at Tashi-lunpo, i. 304, 374; a stolen visit into, ii. 79; temptation to extend journey southwards, 81

Nerung-tsangpo, river, ii. 84

Neve, Dr. Arthur, Srinagar, i. 23

Neve, Dr. Ernest, i. 23

New Year, Chinese, celebration of, i. 345

New Year Festival, Tashi-lunpo: its popularity, i. 301; our dress for, and journey to, 303; a picturesque assemblage, 304; dresses at, 305; reasons for increase of interest in, 306; an enthralling hymn-chant, 308; arrival of the Tashi Lama and his court, 309; religious dances and masques, 311; effect on the spectators, 313; a symbolic fire, 314; combined dance of lamas, 315; general purpose and significance of the ceremonies, 315

Ngangga, or Ganga, channel between Manasarowar and the Langak-tso, ii. 180, 186

Nganglaring-tso, lake, irregular outline of, ii. 398

Ngangtse-tso, lake, rest at, i. 223; thickness of ice of, 224; hermit's cave at, 225; soundings on, 226 ff.; sledge constructed, 226; singular ice-effects, 227-239; New Year's Day 1907 on, 230; Nain Sing's outline of, 230; crustaceæ in, 231; trying weather on, 232; letter with bad news from Robert, 236; meetings with Governor of Naktsang at, 242, 247; arrival of mail-bag, 254; reasons for remembering the, 257

Ngartang, bivouac in, i. 277

Ngavang, joint Governor of Saka-dzong, ii. 353, 368

Ngomo-dingding, glaciers of, ii. 92, 96, 101

Ngurbu Tondup, our mail-carrier to Gyangtse, i. 260, 274; brings us good news, 282

Ngurkung-la pass, ii. 76

Nien-chen-tang-la range, geographical importance of, i. 267, 272; ii. 19, 330; questions as to its direction and extent, 217, 324

Nima-lung-la pass, ii. 324

Nima-pendi valley, ii. 129

Nima Tashi, chief of escort, ii. 366

No Man's Land, i. 94

Nomads, first meeting with, i. 179, 181; from Naktsang, 199; from Senkor, ii. 290

Nubra, i. 64

Nuns, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 353, 356; in Mendong-gompa, ii. 386

Nurla station-house, i. 43

Nyandi-gompa monastery, ii. 190; periodic increase of pilgrims to, 191; halls of, 191

Nyang-chu, river, i. 294

Nyang-tö-ki-pu, hermits' caves at, ii. 8

Nyanyo, village in Nepal, ii. 80

Nyapchu-tsangpo, river, ii. 393

Nyuku, friendliness of Gova of, ii. 60, 67; arrival and camp at, 67

Oang Gye, son of Governor of Saka-dzong, ii. 353, 368; his grief at shooting of wild-goose, 362

O'Connor, Major W. F., British Trade Agent at Gyangtse, i. 244, 389; interpreter to the Tashi Lama in India, 322; welcome surprise from, 377; correspondence with, 389; Muhamed Isa despatched to, 391, 396; gift of books from, ii. 43, 224

Ogawa, Professor, Kioto University, translation by, ii. 183

Ogorung-tsangpo, river, ii. 13

"Om mani padme hum," Tibetan sacred formula, i. 44; ii. 9, 48; Waddell's remarks on, 204; universality of, 204-206; Köppen and Grünwedel's translation of, 204

Ombo, nomads from, i. 208

_Ombo_, shrub used for fuel, ii. 296

Pabla, mountain range, i. 260; solution of important geographical problem of the, 267, 272

Pachen valley, ii. 112, 126, 161

Pachung valley, ii. 112, 126, 161

Padma Sambhava, founder of Lamaism, i. 312; ii. 29

_Pama_, species of juniper, ii. 13

Pama valley, ii. 79

Pamzal, i. 78, 80

Panchen Rinpoche, "the Great Precious Teacher." _See_ Tashi Lama

Panchor, brother of Kamba Tsenam, ii. 342; acts as our guide, 366; doubtful character of, 372, 376, 378

Panggong pass, i. 70

Panggong-tso, lake, i. 70; previous visit to, 70

Pangsetak, camp at, ii. 45

Pankur country, ii. 290

Parka, baggage sent to, ii. 166; camp at, 179

Parka Tasam, threats by, ii. 178

Partridges, shooting of, causes suspicion, ii. 304

Parva valley, camp above the, ii. 33

Pasa-guk, village of, ii. 65; unreliable data in, 66

Passes of the Trans-Himalaya, principal, ii. 408; unknown, crossed by author, 409; average height of, 410

Passport, Chinese, ultimate value of, i. 299; cancelling of, 395; terms of my new, 398; ii. 21, 27

Pathans of escort, i. 28; difficulties with, 38; dismissed from caravan, 41

Pati-bo, district of, i. 207

Patterson, Captain, Joint-Commissioner of Ladak, kindness of, i. 46, 47; addresses caravan before starting, 51

Pears, Colonel, Resident at Srinagar, letter from, i. 25

Pedang-tsangpo, valley of the, ii. 394, 396

_Peling_, or European, i. 200

Pemba Tsering, of Saka, ii. 60, 63, 348, 354

Pensa, Gova, ii. 390

Pere-pala, Nepalese merchants' serai in Shigatse, i. 374

Permanakbo-tang valley, camp in, i. 279

Peter, Rev. Mr., Leh, i. 51, 54

Pike-la pass, i. 213

Pilgrimage of prostration, description of, ii. 199

Pilgrims, meeting with, and purchases from, i. 200, 202; on the Tsangpo, 292; in Tashi-lunpo, 353, 356; devotional exercises, 357; my experiences of Mecca, ii. 69; Hindu, at Manasarowar, 133, 153; on journey round Kailas, 192, 197; mental sketch of great routes of, 203

Pinzoling, bridge at, i. 416

Pobrang village, meeting with English sportsmen at, i. 71; rest for man and beast at, 72; arrangements made for letters, 72; our last point of contact with outer world, 72, 74

Political complications: Tibetan Government officials' visit in Shigatse, i. 375; orders from Tibetan and Chinese Governments, 388, 391; advice from Gaw Daloi, 392; letters to Chinese and Tibetan State officials, 393; Chinese supremacy, 395; letter from Chang Yin Tang, 397

Pongchen-la pass, i. 260

Poo, Moravian missionaries' hospitality at, ii. 417; Takkar's return to, 418

Poonch, mules from, compared with Tibetan, i. 28; trouble with men from, 39

Porung valley, sulphurous springs in, i. 269

Poru-tso, lake, view of, ii. 392

Potu-la pass, i. 42

Prayer formula, Tibetan, i. 301, 357, 404, 408

Prayer-mills, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 360; in Tashi-gembe, 413; ubiquity of, ii. 205

Priesthood, orders of, i. 351; domination of the, in Tibet, 384

Prostration pilgrimage, description of, ii. 199

Pu-chu, valley of, ii. 40

Pul-tso, lake, camp at, i. 131; sudden storms at, 133, 136; soundings and measurements, 133-135; crustaceæ in, 134; mysterious camp-fire, 135

Pundi, double peaks of, ii. 112, 126, 171

Pundi-gompa monastery, ii. 162

Pung-chu, river, ii. 85

Punjab, Lieutenant-Governor of the, i. 12

Puntsuk, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191

Pupchung-tsangpo, river, i. 264

Purang, epidemic of smallpox at, ii. 92

_Pustin_, Yarkand fur coat, i. 74

Pusum village, camp at, i. 415

Quadt, Count, German Consul-General, dinner given at Simla by, i. 16

Quetta, i. 5

Rabsang, biographical details of, i. 151

Races, mixture of, in caravan, i. 31

Radak valley, ii. 353

Raga-tasam, camp at, ii. 41; route of Rawling's expedition touched at, 41; messengers despatched to Shigatse from, 42; camp life at, 43; Tibetan Government's instructions regarding author, 44; visit of the Gova of, 63

Raga-tsangpo, river. _See_ Dok-chu

Ragok valley, i. 206

Rains, importance of monsoon, ii. 68; our first, since leaving Ladak, 74

Rajputs of escort, i. 28; Muhamed Isa's opinion of, 78, 103; sent home at Lake Lighten, 102, 106

Rakas-tal. _See_ Langak-tso

Rambirpur, village of, i. 63

Rartse plain, arrival of missing followers at camp in the, ii. 399

Ravak-la pass, ii. 45

Ravens, pertinacity of, i. 143, 148, 155, 164

Rawalpindi, i. 21

Rawling, Captain C. G., i. 16, 51; discovers Captain Deasy's stores at the Yeshil-kul, 129; maps out Yeshil-kul district, 130, 137; Lake Markham discovered and named by, 148; expedition to Gartok under, ii. 90

Rehim Ali, lessons in rowing to, i. 108; terror of, in storm on Lake Lighten, 113; attacked by wild yak, 176; sacrifice offered up by, 194

Religions, various, in caravan, i. 31, 53

Ribbach, Mr. and Mrs., Leh, i. 55

Richen-chu, river, ii. 132

Richung-chu, river, ii. 129

Rickshaws, reason for their abundance in Simla, i. 17

Rigi-hloma, Gova of, interesting information by the, ii. 393

_Rikchen_, order of priesthood, i. 351

Rinakchutsen, lake, camp at, i. 198

_Ringding_, order of priesthood, i. 351

Riochung country, camp in the, ii. 276

Robbers, in the Chaktak-tsangpo country, ii. 335; Tibetan punishment of, 336

Robert, my faithful servant and meteorological assistant, i. 29, 39, 142, 150; medical skill of, 171; home-sickness of, ii. 62; bad news received by, 219; my parting with, 229

Rock valley, ii. 67

Rock-drawings in Dok-chu valley, i. 422

Ronggak-chu, river, ii. 104

Ruins, encouraging effect of discovery of, i. 169

Rukyok-tsangpo, river, and valley, ii. 69, 334

Rung valley, bivouac in, i. 277

Rung-chu, river, i. 280

Rungma, village of, i. 285, 403

Ryder and Wood, maps by, referred to, ii. 41, 85, 90, 405

Sachu-tsangpo, river, ii. 327; camp at the, 361

Sadung, camp at, i. 403

Saka, permission for excursion granted by Governor of, ii. 47; arrival at, 51; difficulties with officials of, 60; longing to get away from, 61; village life, 62; search-party from, visit our camp, 345; my return route discussed with the Governor of, 355-359, 364

Sakti, village of, i. 64

Saka-gompa monastery, ii. 62

Salt-caravans, ii. 64, 323, 329

Salt lakes, gradual shrinking of Tibetan, i. 91; importance of their product, 193

Salutation, Tibetan form of, i. 182, 240, 280, 429

Samde-puk convent, ii. 1; hermit's cell near, 2

_Samkang_, or hermit's cave, i. 224

Samo-tsangpo, river, fish of, ii. 107

Samye-la pass, hydrographical and geographical importance of, ii. 329; unbroken continuance of the Trans-Himalaya proved at, 330; not on the same chain as the Angden-la, 330

Sanchen-la pass, ii. 310

Sandhills, shifting, on the Brahmaputra, ii. 86

Sand-spout, near Amchok-yung, ii. 36

Sangchen-chu, river, camp at the, ii. 308

Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from chief of, ii. 383

Sangmo-bertik valley, ii. 375

Sangmo-bertik-la pass, ii. 377

Sangra, mountain, i. 264

Sangra-palhe valley, i. 265

Saspul, i. 44

Satsot-la pass, ii. 322

Saunders, map by, ii. 202

Schnabel, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii. 417

Search-party from Saka, ii. 345; their instructions regarding us, 346, 349; my recognition of Pemba Tsering and interview with, 348-350; agree to accompany them to Semoku, 350

Sekya monastery, i. 281

Sela-la pass, i. 267, 272; triumphant reflections at, 268

Sele-nang valley, i. 266, 268

Selin-do, camp at, i. 268

Selipuk-gompa monastery, abbot of, ii. 399; earthquake at, 399

Selung-urdu valley and glacier, ii. 156

Semoku, journey to, ii. 353; meeting with Governor of Saka-dzong in, 355-359; mutual courtesies at, 360

Senes-yung-ringmo, ii. 285

Sen-kamba-la pass, ii. 103

Senkor, nomads from, ii. 290

Seoyinna, mountain, i. 189

Serchung-la pass, view from, ii. 69

Sereding, hill, i. 266

Serme-lartsa, ii. 40

Serolung valley, camp at, ii. 113

Serolung-gompa monastery, ii. 112

Serpo-tsunge, mountain, i. 266

Serpun-lam, the, great high-road of, ii. 321, 394

Sershik-gompa monastery, ii. 29

Sertsang-chu, river, visit of Tibetans at, i. 217

Sha-kangsham, mountain, ii. 302, 306, 310, 322, 381

Shak-chu, river, ii. 20

Sha-la pass, ii. 36

Shalung-la pass, ii. 371

Sham valley, camp in, i. 275

Shamsang, camp at, ii. 88

Shangbuk-la pass, ii. 25, 32

Shang-chu, river, i. 272

Shapka, camp at, ii. 95

Shapku-chu stream, ii. 97

Shargul, lama temple at, i. 42

Shar-tso, lake, ii. 306

Shawe, Dr., Leh, i. 54

Sheep, return of our missing, i. 165; wild, 174; ii. 252, 310, 380; used as pack-animals, 289, 334

Sheep-driving, author's inaptitude for, ii. 299

Shemen-tso, lake, camp at, ii. 270; journey along, 272

Sherring, Mr. C. A., ii. 128; kindness of, and Mrs., 144

Sheryak, camp in, ii. 92

Shey monastery, i. 61

Shialung valley, camp near, ii. 236

Shib-la-yilung valley, i. 271

Shigatse, arrival at, i. 295; interview with commander of Chinese garrison, 296; remains of caravan at, 297; visited by Tibetan officials at, 298; impression made by my Chinese passport, 299; permission to attend New Year Festival in Tashi-lunpo, 299; description of Festival, 301-315; return Ma Daloi's visit, 315; arrangements for visit to the Tashi Lama, 316; architecture of, 340; Dzong of, 340, 377; sports-meeting at, 341-345; Chinese New Year celebration, 345; gruesome funeral customs, 370; Lhasa Government officials' visit to me, 375; arrival of correspondence, 377; assistance rendered by Gulam Kadir, 377; market-place of, 378; system of espionage in, 379; sketches of women in, 380; variety of types and costumes, 382; visit to Kung Gushuk, 385; Chinese intrigues in, 390; review of my position, 394; sudden cordiality of authorities in, 398; formal council held, and my return route specified, 398; a canine interlude in, 399; preparations for departure from, 400; messengers despatched from Raga-tasam to, ii. 42

Shipki, village of, ii. 417

Shipki-la pass, farewell to Tibet from, ii. 417

Shooting competitions, Tibetan, i. 343

Shovo-tso, lake, camp on shore of, ii. 396

Shukkur Ali, uniform cheerfulness of, i. 52

Shuru-tso, lake, i. 216; ii. 25; terraces of, 33; unusual direction of, 33; storm on, 34; shape of, 34

Shyok valley, wretched journey through the, ii. 230-232; farewell festival in village, 232; caravan derelicts in, 237; canine happy event, 238; enormous wastage of horses in, 240, 245; scarcity of provender, 241; our complicated situation, 242; miserable camping-places, 242, 246; Mohammedan hymn in, 246

Simla, scenery of railway journey to, i. 5; arrival at, and welcome by Sir Francis Younghusband, 6; anxious moments in, 7; State functions in Viceregal Lodge, 12, 17; ii. 420; rickshaws in, i. 17; Lord Kitchener's house in, 18; ii. 422; departure from, i. 20; return to, ii. 420; residence in Viceregal Lodge, i. 13; ii. 420; hospitality of Colonel Dunlop Smith and Lord Kitchener, 420, 422; lecture before the Viceregal Court, 421; good-bye to my Ladakis and Little Puppy in, 422

Sind, valley of the, i. 35

Singi-buk, camp at, ii. 210

Singi-chava, ii. 212

Singi-kabab, source of the Indus, ii. 210, 212

Singi-tsangpo, or Indus, ii. 210

Singi-yüra, ii. 212

Singrul, camp at, i. 65

Sirchung, village of, i. 425

Skulls as drinking-vessels, Liktse-gompa, ii. 75

Sledges, on the Ngangtse-tso, i. 226

Smallpox epidemic at Purang, ii. 92

"Snoring Kunchuk," ii. 299, 333; new title for, 379

Snowstorm, a terrific, ii. 269

Sogbarong Tsering Tundup, Tibetan nomad, ii. 288

Soma-tsangpo, river, camp at, ii. 380; journey along the, 386

Sonam Ngurbu, Governor of Chokchu, ii. 399

Sonamarg, bivouac at, i. 37

Sonam Tsering, leader of advance caravan, i. 51; in charge of the mules, 72; points out Deasy's depot, 129

So valley, i. 284

Source of the Brahmaputra, ii. 96, 101; of the Sutlej, 129, 153, 180; of the Indus, 212

Spanglung valley, camp near, i. 78

Spittol monastery, i. 45

Sports, Tibetan, i. 341-345

Srinagar, scenery of journey to, i. 22; arrival at, 23; dinner-table talk about author, 24; interview with the Maharaja of Kashmir's private secretary, 24; fête at, 27; equipment of caravan, 28; departure from, 30; puppies taken from, 34; plates and rock specimens sent to, 103

Srong Tsan Ganpo, wives of, i. 333

Stagna-gompa monastery, i. 63

Stockholm, departure from, i. 4

Stok, the Raja of, letter of recommendation from, i. 57, 298

Stokpa, village of, i. 57

Stoliczka, Dr., monument in Leh, i. 59

Stone, impressions in, i. 337, 406

Storm, a thirty-days', ii. 283 ff.

Sulphur springs, Chuta district, i. 82; in Porung valley, 269; at the Chunit-tso, ii. 323

Sultak, i. 67

Sumdang-tsangpo, river, ii. 398

Sun, eclipse of the, i. 252

Sung-chu, river, ii. 181

Surnge-la pass, ii. 400

Sur-la pass, ii. 393

Sutlej, the, source of, ii. 129, 153, 180, 188; old bed of, 181; Tibetan name of, and assertions regarding its origin, 182; translation of Chinese extract as to its source, 183; its source and that of the Tage-tsangpo the same, 184, 188; accuracy of Chi Chao Nan's statements regarding, 185; Colonel Burrard on drainage area of, 187

Tabie-tsaka, lake, salt-caravans from, ii. 64, 323; location of the, 322; view of, 392

Tagar, village of, i. 64

Tage-bup valley, ii. 105

Tage-tsangpo river, ii. 105, 107; measurements of, 129; its source that of the Sutlej, 184, 188

Tagla Tsering, chief of Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from, ii. 383

Tagrak-tsangpo, river, i. 261, 264

Tagramoche district, bivouac in, ii. 105

Takbur district, high-handed behaviour of chief of, ii. 49, 50; abundance of game in, 50

Takbur-la pass, ii. 50

Takkar, our Tibetan dog, ii. 305, 307, 319; his antipathy to Tibetans, 322, 377; devours wolf-cub, 399; returns to Poo, 418

Takyung Lama, abbot of Mendong-gompa, ii. 315, 318

Ta-la, or "Horse Pass," view from, i. 278

_Talkan_, or roasted meal, i. 53

Tambak valley, ii. 84

Tamchok-kamba (Brahmaputra), river, i. 403, 417

Tamlung-la pass, important watershed of, ii. 104, 129

Tamlung-tso, lake, ii. 104

Tanak (Black Horse) valley, camp in, i. 286, 403

Tanak-puchu valley, i. 286

Tang Darin. _See_ Chang Yin Tang

Tangna, village of, i. 417

Tang-yung province, Tibetan visitors from, i. 212, 214

Tang-yung-tsaka, lake, i. 208

Tanjur, one of the two Tibetan Bibles, i. 412

_Tanka_, or pictorial banner, i. 318

Tankse, auxiliary horses hired from, i. 50, 67; camp and rest at, 67; festivities in caravan at, 68; men from, petition to be allowed to return home, 102; parting with my Ladakis at, ii. 225

Tankse, river, i. 67

Tarbung-la pass, ii. 25

Tarchen-labrang, ii. 190, 198, 202

Targo-gangri, view of the, ii. 20, 22, 381; glaciers of, 25, 32

Targo-tsangpo, river, ii. 21; valley of, 22; our progress stopped at the, 26; terraces of, 26, 30

Targot-la pass, ii. 30

Targyaling-gompa monastery, camp below, ii. 64; intolerant behaviour of lamas of, 65; plundered by robbers, 315

Tarmatse-tso, lake, i. 214

Tarok-tso, lake, position of, ii. 325; described, 391

_Tarpoche_, or votive pole, i. 280

Tarting-choro, village of, i. 404

Tarting-gompa monastery, i. 283, 405; sepulchres of high priests of, 406; preparations for deceased lama's funeral pyre at, 407; reflections on monastic life, 408

_Tasam_, or high-road, ii. 41

Tasang-la pass, ii. 84

Tashi, despatched to Shigatse, ii. 42; his return and adventures, 71

Tashi-gembe monastery, i. 218, 411; the two Tibetan Bibles in, 412; temples of, 412; incongruous European figures in, 413; prayer-cylinders in, 413; brilliant colouring of, 414

Tashi Lama, the, increased prestige of, i. 307, 323; kindness to us at New Year Festival, 310; my visit to, 317; dress and general appearance of, 319; his kindly reception of author, 319; intelligence and shrewd questions of, 320, 354; his pleasant recollections of visit to India, 321; widespread power of, 322; previous visits of Europeans to, 322; attributes and functions of the Dalai Lama and, 323; favours granted to author by, 324; medicine-chest presented to, 325; ineffaceable impressions left by, 325, 355; ceremonies observed on the approaching death of a, 327; method of choosing his successor, 327; mausoleums of previous Tashi Lamas, 330; record length of service of first, 331; visit of third Tashi Lama to Pekin, 334; footprint of, 337; photograph taken of, 354; presents gifts to author, 355; rigidly prescribed life of, 356; his anxious questioning of author, 392; farewell greetings from, 402

Tashi-lunpo, New Year Festival in, i. 301-316; a cloister town, 330; the Labrang, 330; aerial street system in, 330; mausoleums of earlier Tashi Lamas, 330-338; date of foundation, 331; library of, 333; temple of Tsong Kapa, 335; a sacred staircase, 337; clerical tailors in, 348; religious ceremonies witnessed, 348 ff.; grades and numbers of monks, 351, 352; bells of, 351; nuns and pilgrims in, 353, 356; author's interview with the Tashi Lama, 354; pilgrims' devotional exercises in, 357; sources of income, 358; monks' life in, 358, 366; prayer-mills of, 360; tea a favourite beverage in, 359, 361; kitchen of, 361; the walling-up of certain monks, 363; the Dena-lhakang temple, 365; manufacture of images, 367; funeral customs, 369; last visit to, 393

Tayep-parva-la pass, ii. 397

Tea, Tibetan, i. 247; monks' fondness for, in Tashi-lunpo, 359; enormous infusions of, 361

Tea-pots, costly, i. 350

Teheran, Christmas 1905 spent in, ii. 248

Tela-mata-la pass, ii. 397

Telegrams to British Prime Minister, i. 8, 390

Temperature, sudden change of, i. 75; records of low, 155, 173, 199, 207, 258, 274; lowest recorded by author in Asia, ii. 259

Temple, lama, i. 42

_Tenga_, Tibetan coin, i. 56

Teri-nam-tso, "the heavenly lake," ii. 381; its salinity, 384; journey along southern shore, 384; different pronunciations, and meaning of the name, 384; extent of, and height above sea-level, 384

Terkung-rung valley, Lhasa caravan in, i. 270; importance of road through, 270

Teta-la pass, view from, ii. 380

Thakur Jai Chand, Gartok, ii. 107, 215, 417; provisions and letters from, 144

Thirteen, the number, prominence of, in author's journey, i. 20, 249;