CHAPTER LXXIV

SIMLA 415

INDEX 425

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE 189. Sven Hedin _Frontispiece_

190. Hermit's Grotto near the Chang-la-Pod-la 12

191. Robert and Rabsang by the Ice on the Way to the Chang-la-Pod-la 18

192. A Lhadse decked with Mani-Stones and Prayer-Streamers 18

193, 194. Nomads south of Targo-gangri 24

195. Mendicant Lama blowing on a Human Bone 24

196. Tibetan Boy 24

197. Kubi-gangri from Camp 201 26

198. Targo-gangri from a Hill near Camp 150 26

199. The Chomo-uchong Group from the Kinchen-la, May 23, 1907 26

200. Lundup's Squadron. To the left a part of Targo-gangri, Camp 150 28

201. Lundup (on horseback to the left) and his Retinue prevent me from proceeding to the Dangra-yum-tso 30

202, 203, 204. Targo-gangri from the South 32

205. The Shuru-tso, with Targo-gangri in the Background 34

206. On the Upper Raga-tsangpo 36

207. Angden-la 36

208. Chomo-uchong from the east 36

209, 210. Angden-la, a Pass on the Trans-Himalaya 38

211. Manis on the Way to the Angden-la 40

212. Chomo-uchong from Lamlung-la 44

213. Panorama from the Ta-la. The Brahmaputra Valley and the Himalayas in the Background 44

214. Beggar at Tashi-gembe 50

215. Young Tibetan at the Mouth of the Chaktak-tsangpo 50

216. Wandering Lama with a Wooden Glove in his Hand, such as is used to protect the Hands in the Prostration Pilgrimage round the Holy Mountain Kailas 50

217. The Corpse of Muhamed Isa 54

218. Muhamed Isa's Funeral Procession 56

219, 220, 221. The Interment of Muhamed Isa 58

222. Woman at the Mouth of the Chaktak-tsangpo in the Tsangpo 64

223. Tibetan of Saka 64

224. Lama in Saka-dzong 64

225, 226, 227, 228. Tibetan Boys and Girls of Saka and Tradum 70

229. Woman of Nyuku 74

230. Two Tibetans 74

231. The Gova of Tuksum 74

232. Girl at Pasa-guk 74

233. View from the Kore-la towards the south-west 78

234. Gulam Razul's Tents in Gartok 82

235. Landscape in Upper Nepal 82

236. A Chhorten in Nepal 84

237. Group of Tibetan Women 84

238. Women in the Village of Namla 88

239. Inhabitants of the Village of Namla 88

240. Lama in my Boat 92

241. Loading the Boat with Boxes on crossing the Brahmaputra 92

242. Panorama of Kubi-gangri and the Langta-chen Glacier, with the Source of the Brahmaputra (from a height of 16,453 feet, July 13, 1907) 102

243, 244, 245. The Mountains at the Source of the Brahmaputra 106

246. Tibetans on the Bank of the Soma-tsangpo 110

247. Group of Natives of Langmar 110

248. Robert in the Boat 118

249. Sheep-shearing at Tugu-gompa on Manasarowar 124

250. The God of the Lake rising from Tso-mavang 130

251. Temple Hall of the Lake-God of Tso-mavang 134

252. Chenresi's Image in Tugu-gompa 134

253. The Lhakang Hall in Tugu-gompa 138

254. Lama with Prayer-Drum 140

255. Lama before the Temple Door in Tugu-gompa 140

256. Yanggo-gompa 146

257. Interior of the Temple, Tugu 146

258. A Dreamer. Lama in Yanggo-gompa on Manasarowar 148

259. The old Nun in Yanggo-gompa 150

260. The Holy Lake Manasarowar from Tugu-gompa, with Kailas in the Background _Coloured_ 152

261. Boy on the Upper Tsangpo 162

262. The young Prior of Langbo-nan 162

263. Temple Vessels in Chiu-gompa 166

264. Two Children in Shigatse 166

265. Kailas behind Nyandi-gompa 170

266. My Pack-Sheep 170

267. Part of Kailas 174

268. Kailas from Diri-pu 182

269. Confluence of the Two Arms of the Indus 182

270. Tibetan Female Pilgrims at Kailas 188

271. The Gova by whose help the Source of the Indus was discovered (seated) and Tibetans at Kailas 194

272. Gulam Razul beside Bales of Chinese Brick-Tea 198

273. Tibetan Tent 202

274. Monastery of Gar-gunsa 202

275. Images at Chushut 202

276. The Policemen from Simla 206

277. My Boat on the Indus 206

278. Ladaki Women 206

279, 280, 281. At the Monastery Door in Tashi-gang between Gartok and Ladak 210

282. Dancing Women in Chushut, a Village on my Way back to Ladak 212

283. Old Woman 216

284. Lama in Chushut 216

285. On the Way to Tankse 220

286. In the Indus Valley on the Way to Ladak 220

287. The new Horses and Mules at Drugub 220

288. Robert in Winter Dress 224

289. Abdul Kerim, the new Caravan Leader 226

290, 291, 292. Lobsang, Gulam, Kutus--my last trusty Followers 228

293. Beggars 230

294. Abdul Kerim's new Tent 230

295. My Brown Puppy with my Cook, Tsering 234

296, 297, 298. My White Ladaki Horse 234

299. Panorama from Camp 422, Bongba 238

300. Panorama from Camp 277, Shyok Valley 238

301. View from Camp 307 _Coloured_ 258

302. The small salt Lake south of Camp 309 _Coloured_ 258

303. Horses going to drink at the Lake near Camp 310. Abdul Kerim on the left _Coloured_ 258

304. Mountain north-east of Camp 310; the freshwater Lake in the Foreground _Coloured_ 258

305. Storm Clouds over the Snowy Mountains south of Camp 312 _Coloured_ 258

306. Camp 307 262

307. Camp 333. The Beginning of a Storm 262

308. Camp 335. Lemchung-tso, looking east 262

309. Camp 401. Kanchung-gangri from the north 262

310. My Dying Pony 264

311. Lost beyond Recovery 268

312. "If this continues a few days longer, we are lost" 270

313, 314, 315, 316, 317. Panoramas from the Camps 318, 333, 335, 359, 360; in the last two, Sha-kangsham 284

318. The Author as a Shepherd 298

319, 320, 321. The Summits of Lunpo-gangri from Camps 379, 381, and 383 326

322. Wrestling 332

323. Two Guides 332

324. Boy with Hat 332

325. Shepherd Boy 332

326. Sonam Ngurbu, Chief of the Chokchu Province 334

327. Dorche Tsuen, Governor of the Saka Province 334

328. Man with a singular Cap, in Sonam Ngurbu's Escort 334

329. Tagla Tsering, the Chief who refused to let me go to the Dangra-yum-tso 334

330. Travelling Ladaki Merchant in West Tibet 340

331. Oang Gye, Son of the Governor of Saka 340

332. Panchor, the Yak-slayer, my Guide on the Journey to the Teri-nam-tso 340

333. Woman of Yumba-matsen 340

334. Tibetans with Yaks 344

335. Dorche Tsuen on the March 344

336. Farewell Entertainment for the Tibetans on May 5, 1908 348

337, 338, 339, 340. The Dancers at the Camp-fire: Tubges, Kunchuk, Suen 350

341. Inner Court of Selipuk 354

342. Dorche Tsuen and Ngavang on Horseback 354

343. The Author in Tibetan Dress 358

344, 345. Soldiers of the Garrison of Saka-dzong, belonging to our Escort 360

346. Armed Tibetan from the Country between the Teri-nam-tso and the Dangra-yum-tso 360

347. Boy with small Gun on the southern Shore of the Teri-nam-tso 360

348. Trooper of the Escort 364

349. Tibetan of Teri-nam-tso 364

350. Young Shepherd of Bongba 364

351. Guests at the Opening of my Tent on the Bank of the Teri-nam-tso 366

352. The Yaks fording the River Soma-tsangpo 366

353. Nima Tashi, Commander of the Government Escort on the way to the Teri-nam-tso _Coloured_ 368

354. Nuns of Mendong _Coloured_ 368

355. A High Lama of Chokchu _Coloured_ 368

356. The Prior of Selipuk _Coloured_ 368

357. Two Lamas of Mendong 370

358. My Sheep crossing the River Soma-tsangpo 370

359. Village below Lunkar-gompa on the Tarok-tso _Coloured_ 374

360. Mendong Monastery west of the Teri-nam-tso _Coloured_ 374

361. Selipuk Monastery south-west of the Nganglaring-tso _Coloured_ 374

362. Holiday Costumes and Ornaments of Tibetan Women of Kyangrang in the Trans-Himalaya _Coloured_ 374

363. Crossing the Kangsham River 376

364. The Village of Lunkar 378

365. Group of Tibetans at the Teri-nam-tso 378

366. The Village of Lunkar from the Temple Hill 382

367. The southern Shore of Manasarowar with grazing Yaks 382

368. Lunkar-gompa 386

369. Selipuk-gompa 386

370. The Trans-Himalaya from Abuk-la 388

371. Storm over the Trans-Himalaya 388

372. Sonam Ngurbu and his Followers on Horseback 392

373. Some of our Horses on the Way to Kamba Tsenam's Tent 392

374. Lama of Chokchu taking leave of the Prior of Selipuk 396

375. Lama of Chokchu on Horseback 396

376, 377. Boys sitting 398

378. Young Lama 398

379. Old Woman 398

380. Colonel T. G. Montgomerie 404

381. Abbé Huc 404

382. Altar Table with Images of Gods in Mangnang-gompa _Coloured_ 406

383. The Author in Tibetan Costume at the Mission Station in Poo 408

384. The last Members of the last Expedition in Poo 412

385. My Puppy 416

386. Takkar in his new Home with the Missionaries in Poo 416

387. Simla 418

388. The last Members of the Expedition at the Entrance of the Viceregal Lodge in Simla 420

MAPS

8. The Sources of the Brahmaputra, Sutlej, and Indus.

9. A Map of the Trans-Himalaya by Dr. Sven Hedin.

10. A Map of Tibet showing Dr. Sven Hedin's Routes 1906-1908.

(_At end of Volume._)