CHAPTER XXXIV

TO LINGA-GOMPA 427

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE 1. Lord Minto, Viceroy of India _Frontispiece_

2. Colonel Sir Francis Younghusband, Commander of the English Expedition to Tibet, Resident in Kashmir 10

3. Colonel J. R. Dunlop Smith, Private Secretary to the Viceroy 10

4. Viceregal Lodge in Simla 12

5. Lady Minto and the Author on the Terrace of the Viceregal Lodge 14

6. Herbert, Viscount Kitchener of Khartum, Late Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army 18

7. The Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir 22

8. Palace of H.H. the Maharaja of Kashmir in Srinagar 26

9. The Jhelam in Srinagar 28

10. The Start from Ganderbal 30

11. My Escort 30

12. My Three Puppies 32

13. Robert, the Eurasian 32

14. Ganpat Sing, the Rajput 32

15. Manuel, the Cook 32

16. In Front of Nedou's Hotel in Srinagar 34

17. Some of our Mules 34

18. An Amateur Photographer photographed 34

19. The Road to Baltal 38

20. Kargil 40

21. Chhorten in Lamayuru 40

22. Church Music in Lamayuru 42

23. Portrait of a Lama 42

24. Portrait of a Lama 42

25. The Sumto Valley 44

26. Bridge of Alchi 44

27. Girl in Niemo 44

28, 29. Palace of the Kings of Ladak in Leh 44

30. Muhamed Isa 46

31. Guffaru 52

32. The Raja of Stok 56

33. Portal of the Palace in Leh 56

34. View over the Indus Valley from the Roof of the Palace in Leh 56

35. Lama of High Rank in Leh 56

36. Monuments to Stoliczka and Dalgleish, Leh 58

37. Religious Objects from Sanskar 60

38. Images of Gods. A miniature Chhorten on the right. Holy Books, Temple Vessels. On either side of the small Altar-table wooden blocks with which the Holy Books are printed 60

39. Tikze-gompa, Monastery in Ladak 62

40. Masked Lamas in the Court of Ceremonies in Hemis-gompa (Ladak) 64

41. Group of Masked Lamas in Hemis-gompa 64

42. From Singrul, looking towards the Pass, Chang-la 66

43. View from Sultak, August 17, 1906 66

44. Drugub 66

45. My old friend Hiraman from Ladak 70

46. Chiefs of Tankse and Pobrang; Muhamed Isa, the Caravan Leader, in the Background 70

47. The Way to the Marsimik-la 74

48. Spanglung 74

49. Spanglung 78

50. Camp near Pamzal 78

51. The Chang-chenmo and the Way to Gogra 78

52. Muhamed Isa in the River Chang-chenmo near Pamzal 80

53. Rabsang, Adul, Tsering, and Muhamed Isa 82

54. Our Horses at the Karakorum 82

55. In the Snow, N.E. of Chang-lung-yogma 86

56. My Tent 86

57. Lake Lighten 86

58a, 58b. Pantholops Antelope 90

59, 60. Ovis Ammon 90

61. A Gully at Camp 8 (Aksai-chin) 94

62. The hired Ladakis and the Provision Sacks in North-West Chang-tang 98

63. Namgyal with a Sack of Yak-dung 98

64. Shelter of Provision Sacks 100

65. Camp in a narrow Valley, Camp 41 100

66. Robert, Muhamed Isa, and two Servants by a Fire 100

67. The large piebald Yarkand Horse 104

68, 69. The Slain Yaks; Tundup Sonam, the Hunter on the left in 68 104

70. Rehim Ali, one of my Ladakis on the First Crossing of Tibet 108

71. Starting on a Voyage 110

72. In Peril on Lake Lighten 112

73. The Author and Rehim Ali pull the Boat out of the Waves up on to the Shore 116

74. Camp at the Yeshil-kul 118

75. The Pul-tso, looking East 118

76. Horses and Mules in open Country 118

77. Death in the Jaws of Wolves--or Shipwreck 122

78. A Dangerous Situation on the Yeshil-kul. In Moonshine 126

79. At Deasy's Camp 132

80. Afternoon Tea in the open Air 132

81. Melting Snow for Drinking-Water 132

82. Preparations for Dinner at Camp 41 152

83. The Author, Robert, and Rehim Ali attacked by a wounded Yak 170

84. Rehim Ali falls to the Ground and thus rescues us from the furious Yak 174

85, 86. The First Tibetans 180

87. Smoking Camp-fires in the Heart of Chang-tang 186

88. Our Yaks, bought from the First Tibetans 186

89. "Where are you going?" they asked me 200

90. Near the Dangra-yum-tso 216

91, 92, 93. On the Ngangtse-tso 226

94. In a Snowstorm on the Ice of the Ngangtse-tso 234

95. Hlaje Tsering and his Travelling Companion, a Lama, at my Tent on the Ngangtse-tso 242

96. Servants of Hlaje Tsering 252

97. Messenger with Letters from Home, and his Travelling Companion 252

98. Hlaje Tsering setting out 252

99. Three Tibetans saluting 264

100. Pass of La-rock. _Mani_ Heap with Fluttering Prayer-Streamers 274

101. On the Bank of the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra) 274

102. The Tsangpo with Floating Ice 282

103. The Valley of the Tsangpo above Shigatse 282

104. House in the Village of Rungma 286

105. Garden of the Tashi Lama in the Village of Tanak 286

106. Ferry-Boats 290

107. Pilgrims on the Way to Tashi-lunpo 290

108. Court of Religious Ceremonies in Tashi-lunpo 296

109. Religious Decorations on the Roofs of Tashi-lunpo to exorcise Evil Spirits 296

110. The Upper Balcony of the Court of Ceremonies in Tashi-lunpo 300

111, 112. The _Profanum Vulgus_ at the New Year Festival in Shigatse 304

113. Lama with Shell-Trumpet 306

114. Lama with Flute used in Religious Services 306

115, 116, 117. Lamas in Dancing Masks 308

118. View of Tashi-lunpo 310

119. Street in Tashi-lunpo, with Lamas 312

120. Street in Tashi-lunpo 314

121. The Labrang, the Palace of the Tashi Lama 316

122. Interior of the Palace of the Tashi Lama 322

123. View of a Part of Tashi-lunpo, with the Façade of a Mausoleum of a Grand Lama 324

124. Façade of the Mausoleum of the First Tashi Lama. The Court of Ceremonies in the Foreground 326

125, 126. Interiors of two Mausoleums of Grand Lamas in Tashi-lunpo 328

127. The Kanjur-lhakang in Tashi-lunpo 330

128. Portal of the Mausoleum of the Third Tashi Lama in Tashi-lunpo 332

129. The Namgyal-lhakang with the Figure of Tsong Kapa, in Tashi-lunpo _Coloured_ 334

130. Reading Lama with Dorche (Thunderbolt) and Drilbu (Prayer-Bell) 336

131. Lama with Prayer-Drum 336

132. Entrance to the Tomb of the Fifth Tashi Lama in Tashi-lunpo _Coloured_ 338

133. Staircase to the Mausoleum of the Fifth Tashi Lama in Tashi-lunpo 340

134. Shigatse-dzong (the Fortress) 342

135. Shigatse, Capital of the Province of Chang (11,880 feet) 344

136. Chinese New Year Festival in my Garden 346

137. Some of the Members in the Shooting Competition at the New Year Festival 346

138. Popular Diversion in Shigatse 348

139. Nepalese performing Symbolical Dances at the New Year Festival 350

140. Dancing Nepalese at the New Year Festival, Tashi-lunpo 352

141. The Kitchen in Tashi-lunpo 354

142. Colonnade in Tashi-lunpo 354

143. Lamas drinking Tea in the Court of Ceremonies in Tashi-lunpo 358

144. Part of Shigatse 362

145. The Tashi Lama returning to the Labrang after a Ceremony 362

146. The Panchen Rinpoche, or Tashi Lama 366

147. Portrait of the Tashi Lama 370

148. Lamas with Copper Tea-pots 374

149. Female Pilgrim from Nam-tso and Mendicant Lama 374

150. The Great Red Gallery of Tashi-lunpo 376

151. Chhorten in Tashi-lunpo 378

152. Portal in Tashi-lunpo 380

153. Group of Lamas in Tashi-lunpo 380

154. Lecture in Tashi-lunpo 382

155. Female Pilgrims from the Nam-tso 384

156. Tibetans in Shigatse 384

157, 158, 159. Tibetan Girl and Women in Shigatse 386

160. A Chinaman in Shigatse 388

161. A Tibetan in Shigatse 388

162. A Lama in Tashi-lunpo 388

163. Door-keeper in Tsong Kapa's Temple 388

164. Dancing Boys with Drums 390

165. Wandering Nun with a Tanka depicting a Religious Legend and singing the Explanation. (In our Garden at Shigatse.) 394

166. Gandän-chöding-gompa, a Nunnery in Ye 394

167. Duke Kung Gushuk, Brother of the Tashi Lama 398

168. The little Brother of the Tashi Lama, the Wife of Kung Gushuk, and her five Servants 402

169. The little Brother of His Holiness with a Servant 404

170. The Author drawing the Duchess Kung Gushuk 406

171. Major W. F. O'Connor, British Trade Agent in Gyangtse, now Consul in Seistan 408

172. Captain C. G. Rawling 408

173, 174. Tarting-gompa 410

175. Linga-gompa 410

176. Lung-Ganden-gompa near Tong 410

177. Inscription and Figure of Buddha carved in Granite near the Village of Lingö 410

178. Tarting-gompa 412

179. Sego-chummo Lhakang in Tarting-gompa 412

180. Bridge to the Monastery Pinzoling (on the right) 414

181. Group of Tibetans in the Village of Tong 418

182. Inhabitants of the Village of Govo 418

183. Lama in Tong 422

184. Old Tibetan 422

185. Strolling Musicians 424

186. The Handsome Woman, Putön 426

187. On the My-chu near Linga 430

188. Village and Monastery of Linga 430

MAPS

1. The Latest Map of Tibet.

2. Carte Générale du Thibet ou Bout-tan.

3. Map of Southern Tibet (Hodgson).

4. The Source-Region of the Brahmaputra (Nain Sing).

5. Sketch-Map of Webber's Route in 1866.

6. Saunders' Map of South Tibet.

7. The Source-Region of the Brahmaputra (Ryder).

(_At end of Volume._)