CHAPTER XIX

LITTLE SWORDSMEN

Fig. 424 shows the principle on which this toy is made; the shaded portion represents the inside of a box. A good size for a box to make this toy is 9" × 4-1/2" × 2-1/4". Slits should be cut in the long side of the box at _a b_, _c d_, _e f_, _g h_. These slits may be made with a pen-knife, and a fret-saw file will make them wide enough for a piece of cardboard to slip up and down in.

Slits are then made in the short side exactly under the long slits, as _p n_ in Fig. 425. Widen these slits also with a file.

Next cut out the cardboard figures. Draw head, body and one leg to be cut out in one piece; about 3 inches of cardboard should be left below the foot (M and N in Fig. 424), the total length of figure being about 8 inches. Cut out another figure like this. Make holes just below the foot as at D in Fig. 424.

Next draw and cut out legs, F and H. Notice that they do not project so far inside the box, their length being about 3-1/2 inches. Fasten these to the figures by paper-fasteners. Next cut out a long strip of cardboard, A B, 1/2 inch by 14 inches. Pass this through the slits (_p n_ in Fig. 425) in the short sides of the box. See that it slides easily up and down in these slits.

The portions marked M and N turn on pivots _h k_ and _m l_. These pivots pass through holes, D and E, in the figures and through holes made at each side of the box exactly opposite the short slits. Steel knitting needles make good pivots, or pieces of cane. When the top is quite complete these pivots may be glued into the holes in the box for greater security. Fasten pieces of lead at the bottom of M and N so that the figures swing easily on the pivots.

When it is found that the pivots are in the right place, pass the strip of cardboard A B through the slits, and fasten the legs, F and H, to it by paper-fasteners, as at X and Y. See that the needles are in the right holes and fasten up the box.

(It is a convenience in making this toy to let the cover form one side, the cover being left off until all the inside arrangements are complete; the pivots can then be put into their holes in the cover, and the cover put on.)

Now if the projecting ends of A B are pushed backward and forward the figures fight in a very realistic manner. Notice that A B has two movements: one backward and forward, the other up and down. The lead weights in M and N keep A B up. Generally speaking, the longer the slits are the better the figure works. This, however, does not apply to slits _c d_ and _g h_. The slits need not be so close together as in the figure if it is desired that the swordsmen should fight at a greater distance.

The arms are cut out of cardboard and fastened by paper-fasteners on each side of the figure; the swords may be cut out with the arms, or made separately and gummed on after-wards, pieces of cane making effective swords. A more difficult but more satisfactory way of putting on the arms is this: pass a very short piece of cane through the hole in the body, where the arms are to be fastened; see that it turns very easily in the hole; next seccotine the pieces of cane that project at each side into holes in the arms; see that one arm is up, the other down. To make the arms balance well, it may be necessary to fasten a small piece of lead to one hand.

This toy is most amusing if carefully made. The following hints may be useful:

(1) Draw and paint the little swordsmen as carefully as possible.

(2) See that the slits are perfectly straight and wide enough for the cardboard to pass through.

(3) See that the arms, legs and feet turn easily on their pivots, whether these pivots be paper-fasteners, cane or knitting needles.

(4) See that sufficient lead is attached.

(5) Cover the box neatly with paper, but _not_ the slits. A piece of green paper looks well for the top.

This toy may also be cut out of wood with a fret-saw. Many other amusing toys can be made on the same principle.