CHAPTER I
ADDITIONAL TOOLS
Besides the tools mentioned in Part I, viz., bench-hook, hammer, saw, file, bradawl, pincers, the following additional tools will be found of service, though some of these are luxuries, and generally it is best to use as few as possible:
1. A larger saw, for sawing rougher and larger wood than stripwood, _e.g._ a _Tenon Saw_, length 8 to 16 inches; 10 to 16 points to an inch, price about one and ninepence.
2. _An Archimedean Drill._ This is useful for making small holes when there is danger of the wood splitting, however when once this drill is used, the worker never again feels inclined to use a bradawl or any other kind of boring tool. A quite useful and efficient drill can be bought for sixpence. Care must be taken that the drill bits or drill points do not break, for being quite slender and made of tempered steel they are rather fragile. A set of twelve drill points in assorted sizes in a metal case may be bought for sixpence. (For hints on the use of drill, see under fret-saw.)
3. The _Cramp_ or clamp is a contrivance used for holding boards together. An adjustable G cramp is a handy article for small work. There are several models of G cramps; that shown in the plate costs twopence.
4. A _Rasp_ or rough file for removing from boxes either paper or the names that are sometimes stamped on them.
5. _Brace and Bit._ The smallest-sized brace, which has a sweep of 5 inches, is the most convenient for children. Bits are of many patterns. The most common form is the _Centre-bit_ which will cut holes from 3/8 inch to 1-1/2 inches in diameter.
The _Pin-bit_ or shell-bit of the smallest bore is used to make small-sized holes for screws, etc., but more especially when making preparation for using the centre-bit.
A _Centre-bit_ 1-3/4 inches in diameter costs ninepence; a brace and bit (3/4 inch diameter) together costs one and threepence; this latter bit is useful for boring holes in wheels for axles, etc.
However the brace and bit is somewhat of a luxury and can be done without, for holes made with the Archimedean drill can always be enlarged to the required size, by means of round files and patience.
6. The _Mitre-block_ is a piece of beech-wood carefully squared and rebated so as to present throughout its length a rectangular step-like recess in which the wood to be mitred is placed in order to be cut at the necessary angle.
In the raised part are three saw kerfs, two at an angle of 45° with the sides of the mitre-block and one half-way between these at right angles to the sides. The inclination of the saw-cuts at an angle of 45° is to the right and left respectively, so that when these angles are brought together in the mitred joint they may form a perfect right angle (90°). The mitre-block is a luxury, but it is useful in squaring off the ends of the wood, making picture frames, making the crane (Chapter V), etc., price sixpence.
A _Compass_, _Protractor_, _Ruler_, _Try-square_ and well-sharpened _Pencil_ will be found useful in making nearly every toy.
A _Plane_ is not necessary for any of the toys described in the following chapters, but is mentioned here in case anyone should require one for reducing the thickness of wood or straightening a surface. The most economical one is a Jack-plane fitted with a smoothing-plane iron. The Jack-plane thus equipped may be used for reducing thicknesses of material (this is the real function of the Jack-plane) as well as for planing up surfaces true and smooth (the purpose of the smoothing-plane).
The Jack-plane iron has its cutting edge slightly rounded in order to gouge out the wood and thus reduce thickness quickly, the smoothing-plane iron is ground to a straight edge.
If both these irons are bought, the plane becomes both a Jack-and a smoothing-plane.
The Stanley Bailey adjustable iron plane is a good one. No. 5 size, 14 inches long, is recommended.
However, as we have said before, it can be done without. The first four tools are the really necessary ones.
_The Preservation of Tools._ Keep tools in a dry atmosphere in a wooden box. Have them instantly dried after grinding and whenever they have been in contact with wet. Iron or steel parts should be frequently rubbed over with a piece of oily rag (if grease is used it must be free from salt). A speck of rust must be removed at once with fine emery-paper and oil.
A generous coating of oil or vaseline should be given when tools are laid aside for some time.
_The Sharpening of Tools._ Chisels, planes and knives are sharpened on oilstones. The Lily-white and the Rosy-red Washita oilstones are perhaps the best natural stones on the market. With regard to the oil used, machine, engine, neat's foot and sweet oils are all suitable. Clean the stone after use.
Knives are sharpened at an angle on both sides, and will therefore have one side rubbed on the stone a few times and will then be turned over to rub the other side.
Pen-knives can be sharpened on the ordinary kitchen knifeboard.