Part 6

The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.

The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2" long.

The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.

Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.

The stick is made 7/8" × 1" × 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".

Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4" from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.

Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" × 7/8" × 7-1/2", are to hold the wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the next two 3/4" apart.

On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.

A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a 2-1/2" × 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.

The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than the 1/4" × 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon it.

Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4" round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.

Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.

Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join, outline with a drafting pen and India ink.

A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4" dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place, taking care that it projects equally on both sides.

ROCKING ROOSTER.

This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly safe. (Plate 51.)

The seat board is made 7/8" × 5" × 21". Measure 6" in from one end on both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.

Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.

The two rockers are made 7/8" × 4-1/2" × 18". Measure down 1/4" on the two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.

The rooster's head is made 7/8" × 6" × 10-1/4" and the outline is sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.

Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.

A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.

Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.

The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a file.

Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the screws enter.

The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made 7/8" × 1" × 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.

Sand all pieces thoroughly.

Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is centered well and placed two inches from the front end.

The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they are just an inch apart.

Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0 sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright red and the feathers on the neck, green.

After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and the other circle about the eye is painted black.

If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and sets off the features.

The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of the priming coat.

KIDDIE KAR.

It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.

The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2" wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and chiseled to the correct shape.

The top edge of the seat should be rounded.

The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" × 5" × 6-1/2". Finish to the line.

The brace is cut 7/8" × 5" × 9-1/2".

Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the dimensions shown on the drawing.

A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.

Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.

The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.

Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.

Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.

A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the steering rod.

Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat board, to prevent wear.

In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8" from the bottom of the steering gear.

This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.

The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a 1/4" × 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.

The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.

The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.

All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the remainder.

Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.

KIDDIE KOASTER.

This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar and is suited for children of eight or over.

If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.

If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.

The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in Plate 53.

The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" × 2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and 7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the bottom end chamfered, as shown.

A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end. An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.

A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit. Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a 3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.

These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A 1/4" bit should be used to bore these.

The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and draw to the opposite corner.

Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.

Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.

Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the front.

The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".

Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed, measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given on the drawing.

On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of the rear support on a line.

This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.

Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.

The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch, cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.

The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge with upholstery tacks to match.

The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are clearly shown.

The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.

These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply. These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.

A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm, to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes, without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches long and costs fourteen cents.

If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be substituted, two being used.

A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the screw holes in the hinges.

Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted two coats.

A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.

SKI SKOOTER.

The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.

The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.

The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.

The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.

The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly rounded.

Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" × 7/8" × 5".

Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright directly under the seat.

Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them. Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.

The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully between coats.

The seat can be upholstered if desired.

METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.

Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and allow them to remain about five hours.

Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays flat on the front edges of the other steps.

Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood. Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be bent in the same manner.

Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.

SKI SKIPPERS.

The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.

The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4" wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)

The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.

Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.

Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to the point where they curve upward.

This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.

The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish. When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent, using the method shown in Plate 55.

The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".

The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and 1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between the edges.

The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".

The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as indicated. Round these upper corners.

Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing. There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.

It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.

Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.

Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to receive a 3/8" rope.

It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent splitting the block.

A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint should be applied.

DOLL SLEIGH.

While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will be suitable for a small child.

First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting them 9" wide by 26" long.

On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.

Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".

These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.

The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the right-hand upper corner.

From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end. From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge 1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.

The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end 1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8" from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.

Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.

The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".

The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.

Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.

Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the body of sleigh at places most convenient.

Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with 3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.

If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap iron.

Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.

If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each coat.

CHILD'S TABLE.

This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.

The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up but little room.

The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.

The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" × 24".

These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.

The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screws.