Part 5

Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle 1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2" wide.

From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously drawn.

The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the slope of the head board.

Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof. These are 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head board.

The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" × 4-3/4" × 7-3/4".

The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.

The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat and overhangs equally on both sides.

Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and 1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.

Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the edges of the base.

The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See directions for painting in the first part of the book.

DOLL'S BED.

The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll, 16" to 18" in length.

The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" × 7/8" × 12" and the two short ones 7/8" × 7/8" × 9-1/4".

These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered 1/16", as shown.

The two side rails are next made 3/8" × 2-1/2" × 20-1/2".

The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board, are made 1/2" × 7/8" × 8-3/4".

Seven slats are next made 3/8" × 1-1/4" × 8".

Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made rest, are now made 3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4".

Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 8", and one 3/8" × 3" × 8". Three similar slats are made for the foot board, two 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 5-1/4" and one 3/8" × 3" × 5-1/4".

Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.

These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats, as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard beeswax.

In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the hammer.

Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting rails (3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side rails into these to help secure them in place.

The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends for a bearing.

All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.

Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good, clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary instructions for painting.

There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing the bedding.

TWO TYPES OF STILTS.

(Type A Stilt.)

Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.

In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath the arm pits.

The upright pieces should be made 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 5', or as long as the boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand nicely.

Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2" apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No. 12 flat-head screw.

The foot rests are made 1" × 3-1/2" × 5" and shaped, as indicated on the drawing.

They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" × 3" round-head stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.

The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also preserves it and lengthens its life.

(Type B Stilt.)

Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be strapped to the leg just above the knee.

The uprights are 1" × 1-3/8" × 36", or longer if desired.

Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of the same size as in Type A.

A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet, and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.

Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.

A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady oneself.

CHILD'S CART.

Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is of simple construction.

Make the side pieces first 1/2" × 6" × 10". On one long edge measure in 2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6" and the end piece 1/2" × 6" × 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.

The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6-1/2".

The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/8". This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4" from the ends and half way between the sides.

Two small blocks are made 1/2" × 1" × 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown. These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other, otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.

Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being 2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.

The handle measures 7/8" × 1" × 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an angle of 30°, as shown.

A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the under side of the handle.

The wheels are 7/8" × 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then carefully cut to the line.

The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.

Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position. Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.

Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with glue and 1" brads.

A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.

CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.

This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.

Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43 gives the assembly drawing.

The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2" × 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point indicated.

The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".

Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the sides.

The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4" on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the center of the lower edge to attach brace block.

Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2" hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown. Countersink these four holes.

Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the top edge, as shown.

Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.

The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".

Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.

Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of a No. 6 screw.

Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head screws are used at these points.

Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, eight in all.

Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without interference.

The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.

A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of the axle to insure the screws going in properly.

The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a 1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place with glue and one 7/8" brad.

Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.

The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4". A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".

Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.

The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1" in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.

On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end. Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw.

Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.

A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.

This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through the block.

Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and handle.

CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.

(Type A.)

The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily found on the store shelves.

First, make the handles 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 30". Chamfer the handles, as shown, for four inches from one end.

The two sides are made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and file.

The end is 3/8" × 5-1/2" × 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" × 11" × 14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at the front end.

Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes with beeswax.

Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at the grip end 13" apart outside.

While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.

The two legs are made 7/8" × 1" × 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.

A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9" long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the leg to hold it firmly in place.

A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.

The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter.

Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.

Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling, place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.

All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green. Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0 sandpaper before applying the second.

CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.

(Type B.)

This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy. This type has removable sideboards.

The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so it will not be necessary to give the directions here.

After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made ready for assembling.

Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the wheel supports and the tops of the legs.

The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" × 4", bent over the braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6 round-head screws.

First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the bottom board and flush with the side edges.

Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.

Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws from the upper side of the bottom board.

Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in the same manner.

Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6 round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.

Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.

Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws.

It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg, through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.

The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is painted two coats of red before being placed in position.

CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.

This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.

The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may be used, if preferred.

The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all necessary holes shown in the drawing.

The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made 1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later. Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the body of the clown on the handle.

The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16" material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.

A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.

A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.

The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen, using India ink.

The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting dowel in both the clown and the handle.

COCK HORSE.