Part 4

The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the rings.

A score of one hundred should constitute a game.

FIVE POST RING TOSS.

Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.

The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)

The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on this causing a loss of five points.

The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor, and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point above the posts.

The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap with white friction tape.

The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" × 15" × 20". The center of each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8" chamfer around the upper edge.

Post A is made 1" × 1" × 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" × 1" × 8-1/4"; post D, 1" × 1" × 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" × 1" × 6-3/4". All of these posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.

It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a 1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square and 3/4" long.

All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.

The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and then the second coat applied.

BEAN BAG GAME.

This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the bags.

The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate 33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.

A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" × 20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.

The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4" bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side. Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.

A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.

The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2" from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2" from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.

After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more if necessary.

Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up well.

The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.

DART BOARD GAME.

This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.

The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass, pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long, from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".

The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8" wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as shown.

The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.

The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.

The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head screws.

This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.

After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.

The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the colors applied to the circles.

First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all the circles again with ink.

Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed that the small outside circles are minus numbers.

Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.

Darts.

The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.

At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl. These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.

About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.

The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts lose their score.

One thousand points should constitute a game.

The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine file.

WIND MILL.

This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.

The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half inch stock, two being 3-1/2" × 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" × 4-3/4". The two larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood 1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" × 3-1/2" and a line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as shown.

The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" × 1-1/4" × 10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for the screw which holds in place the round piece A.

The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" × 2-1/2". A hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This hole is 3/8" deep.

The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with glue.

The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" × 4" × 5". The small piece, on which the vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut 1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.

A piece is now cut 3/4" × 7/8" × 7" to serve as the supporting piece on which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should be filed smooth and round.

A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the mill turning easily.

The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" × 1" × 5-1/2". Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.

A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw to turn easily.

A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.

All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.

A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.

WIND MILL.

(Type B.)

This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages in the sand.

The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.

The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" × 2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface, 5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.

Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads, trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they are flush with the surface of the top piece.

Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate the places where the cross pieces go.

Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with the floor when setting upright.

The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.

Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw which holds piece B in place.

Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.

Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all around.

The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail, where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.

The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.

A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.

Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.

Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.

The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers under the screw head and between B and E.

Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.

A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the mill to the desired location.

SAND OR WATER MILL.

This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and 7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the corners, are 1/2" × 1" × 1". The two uprights are 3/4" × 7/8" × 8-1/4", and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-1/2".

Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.

Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.

The top piece is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 5-1/2" with the two front corners slightly rounded, as shown.

A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.

A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.

A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.

Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish these.

Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red paint.

Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.

While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through which the wire axle runs is 3/4" × 3/4" × 2-1/4". The four blades are 1/4" × 2-1/4" × 2-3/4".

After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece, nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats of yellow.

When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly, using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.

The toy is now ready to operate.

DOLL'S CRADLE.

A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or seventeen inches in length.

The two sides should be first made 1/2" × 6-1/2" × 20". These are later beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head and foot board.

Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end 11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2", as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.

The head board is next made 1/2" × 7" × 8-3/4".

Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper corners are rounded, as shown.

The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" × 5" × 8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly alike, except in height.

The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1" brads.

See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.

The base is next made 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4" × 2-3/4" × 13-1/2".

It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight pressure.

Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and 1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.

Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.

See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the edges.

Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1" brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on each side and come flush with the ends.

All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before assembling.

The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat. Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.

COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.

The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more difficult to make.

Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and footboard.

The headboard is cut 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 10-7/8".

Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.

Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and footboard to see if they compare.

Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" × 9-1/4" × 20".