Part 3

This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is strong and serviceable.

Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children of varying ages.

Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material is prepared as follows:

The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2" radius.

Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.

Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.

The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" × 1" × 19" and the two shorter ones 1/2" × 1" × 18-3/4".

One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as shown in the drawing.

Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.

On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the rounded end.

The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.

The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" × 1" × 4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2" from the ends.

Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" × 1" × 3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between the long legs.

A cleat 7/8" × 1" × 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in position.

All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before being assembled. No further finish is necessary.

DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.

(Size B.)

The method of constructing this board is identical with the method suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces. (Plate 23.)

This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six years of age.

The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.

The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the preceding problem.

The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" × 1-1/8" × 24", and the shorter 9/16" × 1-1/8" × 22-1/2".

One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown in the drawing.

Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8" from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.

On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit, 9-3/8" from the rounded ends.

The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the screws and the cleat.

The cleat is 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.

These are countersunk.

The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" × 1-1/8" × 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is attached 3" from the end.

Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" × 1-1/8" × 4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the longer legs.

A cleat 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4" flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds the board rigid.

All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before being assembled.

No further finish is necessary.

DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.

(Size C.)

The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two types. (Plate 24.)

This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.

The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2" radius.

These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.

The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.

The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 27-7/8", and the other two 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 29".

One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in the drawing.

Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.

Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all 5/8" from the edges.

On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2" from the rounded ends.

The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This cleat is 1" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4" flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.

The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached 3-1/2" from the ends.

Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between the other set of legs.

A cleat 1-1/8" × 1-3/8" × 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in position.

The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board (Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from collapsing.

All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper before being assembled.

No further finish is necessary.

DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.

This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill in assembling. (Plate 25.)

The four legs are cut 3/8" × 3/4" × 13" and each end is rounded by first striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.

Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places: 3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4" beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.

Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" × 3/4" × 6" and two 3/8" × 3/4" × 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored 3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends, as shown in Plate 25.

These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.

The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces, 8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.

The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d, Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i, and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.

Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable points, with 3/4" brads.

Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly just where the brads are to be placed.

No further finish is necessary.

CHILD'S WASH BENCH.

This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 18". These slats have screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.

Two braces are made 3/4" × 1/4" × 8". These are to support the slats. One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to receive and support the dowel rod.

The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" × 1" × 12-3/4". One-half inch from one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.

The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" × 3/4" × 13". A center lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head screws.

Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the other 14" long.

These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.

All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.

No other finish is necessary.

CHILD'S STEP LADDER.

This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)

The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut them in a miter-box.

The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent to the sides and ends of the legs.

Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not to split the wood.

The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges slightly rounded.

Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)

Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8" from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel stick on which the rear leg swings.

While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent splitting.

The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3" wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are cut 8" in length.

The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the legs, and this requires considerable care.

The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.

Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit loosely.

Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the leg.

Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.

If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.

End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.

If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.

The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and countersunk.

Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.

Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.

The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step ladder is assembled.

A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.

A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.

DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.

While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the accompanying drawing has proven very popular.

The four legs are first made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 12". Measure down 3" from one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at the opposite ends, as shown.

The two side rails are made 1/2" × 2-7/8" × 6-1/2". The two front rails above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" × 1/2" × 12".

On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.

Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.

The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are bored.

The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and glued together, and reinforced with dowels.

The finished dimensions are 3/8" × 12" × 19".

Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place. (See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.)

Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.

Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.

All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue, screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for several hours to insure a tight fit.

If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing. If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual table.

The drawer front is 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 12". The sides are 1/4" × 1-7/8" × 11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.

Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or made by hand, and placed as indicated.

As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it may be left unfinished.

COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.

This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.

The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the book.

The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" × 11" × 16" and, if a piece of wood 11" wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See method of joining wood on page 18.)

The four uprights are made 1" × 1" × 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces 5/8" × 1" × 8".

The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount from their edges.

Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1-1/4", to be attached to the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around. They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.

Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends. These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when assembling, and are to hold the top in place.

Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each notch. These holes are also countersunk.

The long lower brace is made 5/16" × 2-1/2" × 12". When assembling, this piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue and 1/2" brads.

Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No. 0.

If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as desired.

COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.

This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing (Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.

The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.

A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact duplicates.

The back is next made, 3/8" × 5-1/8" × 10-3/4".

The seat is made 3/8" × 4-1/2" × 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat measures 3/8" × 3-1/2" × 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge, and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.

Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first, with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.

Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and painting.

RING-THE-HOOK GAME.

This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)

The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing, is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock 5/8" × 11" × 12".

The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished carefully to the line with a chisel and file.

A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.

The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should be applied over this.

If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink after the final coat is dry.

Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.

The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should constitute a set.

The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.