Part 2

Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be unevenly stained.

There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.

Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the wood.

Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work them out with the brush.

After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if desired.

For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter being preferable.

Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied if desired.

METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.

If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.

One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels.

This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.

Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.

For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half inch bit should be used.

Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when we come to put the work together.

After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut, one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of the joint from coming together.

Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.

Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.

Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to drive into place, as indicated.

By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of clamping will be understood.

The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned of all glue and planed.

SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.

In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp, as is shown in the sketch.

SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.

In making this support the following method should be followed:

The back piece is first made 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 20". The top is made 7/8" × 6-3/4 × 12" and the brace 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.

Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.

SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.

For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 12" and the base 7/8" × 5" × 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" × 3" × 8". The top has the same V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at any hardware store.

THE BENCH HOOK.

The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate 3. The main piece is made 7/8" × 6" × 12". Two cross cleats are made, one being 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 6" and the other 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 5". Holes are bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.

If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3, Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge. Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows: Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge. Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split.

Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both sawing and planing.

SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.

In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject, especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the chisel and the plane blade.

If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place, bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little over half an inch.

The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the surface of the stone.

The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone. It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp cutting edge.

Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.

The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut. Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to work with.

The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion, bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will be found sharp enough.

Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.

Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first and skill comes only with continued practice.

In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge. The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other, until the desired edge is obtained.

Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.

COPING SAW WORK.

The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.

Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8" being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board, is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.

All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base with glue and 1-1/4" brads.

Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.

Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.

Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base.

DOWEL STICKS.

Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4" to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three cents apiece.

Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.

PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.

The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially good for the beginner.

First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded magazine. Colored pictures are the best.

Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it to dry overnight.

Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying drawing.

If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing Christmas gift.

METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.

If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the following method is very simple:

Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares, like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16.

If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and number all parts to agree.

Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.

With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be made.

A picture may be reduced by the same method.

DIPPY DUCK.

This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the floor.

As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed around the top edge, as shown.

The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/2". A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed out. The opposite end is rounded.

A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base piece to move easily upon it.

The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and 3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to turn easily within.

The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string to pull it by.

All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.

THE MONITOR.

This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one that is at home both on the land and water.

The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and 14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line with a coping saw and finish smooth.

The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4" from each end.

For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight, but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.

The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret, 3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.

The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" × 3/4" × 4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails and glue.

The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.

A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the base.

A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.

THE MERRIMAC.

The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor, but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.

The hull is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4" from either end.

The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" × 6-1/4".

The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.

The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.

Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to which a string may be attached.

The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit against the sloping sides of the turret.

A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a 1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.

The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points indicated on the drawing.

The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and sides of the hull.

The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" × 3/4" × 4" and are nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.

The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.

The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.

After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle ship gray paint.

CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.

This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early winter. (Plate 20.)

The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28" long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in balance.

The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.

The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.

This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as indicated.

The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" × 8" × 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a piece of zinc, 3-1/4" × 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as shown.

The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" × 1-5/8" × 8" and then planed from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.

THE PERISCOPE.

This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.

For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" × 2-7/8".

Pieces A are cut 3/8" × 2" × 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" × 2" × 17-1/4"; pieces E, 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 18-7/8".

Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.

All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.

The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.

DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.

(Size A.)