CHAPTER VIII

THE PURSE

[117] Whitehead, _Gaspard de Coligny_, p. 25.

[118] _Röhricht_, p. 293. _Cf._ also Solerti's _Vita di Tasso_, i, 137, note I, for Cardinal Luigi d'Este's expenses in France (1570).

[119] H. Weber, _J. G. von Aschhausen, Fürstbischof_, Wurzburg, 1889, p. 30.

[120] Smith, _Sir Henry Wotton_, i, 48 note.

[121] In Bacon's advice to Villiers, Spedding's _Life_, vi, 43. _Cf._ "She [_i. e._ Queen Elizabeth] hath had many Secretaries that have been great Travaylers," from a dialogue by Sir John Davies, in Grosart's edition of his poems, I, 18.

[122] Brit. Mus. MS. Lansdown, 720.

[123] Both in Röhricht, p. 269.

[124] Bodleian MS., Rawlinson, D. 122, at the end.

[125] Röhricht, p. 293.

[126] T. Tobler, _Denkblätter_, 1853, p. 569.

[127] _Cf._ references collected in Variorum ed. of Shakespeare's _Tempest_, p. 180, and in Ben Jonson's _Works_ (1875), ii, 70 ("Every Man out of his Humour"); also Davies' _Epigrams_, no. 42 (Grosart's ed., p. 343). Writers on insurance ignore all these references and usually content themselves with borrowing without acknowledgement what Hendriks wrote in his _Contributions to the History of Insurance_ (pp. 35-37) as long ago as 1851. Hamon's _Histoire Générale de l'Assurance_ (p. 107) and _Journal of the Institute of Actuaries_, vol. 25, p. 121, give detail previously unprinted. For ransom-insurance, see also Walford's Insurance Cyclopædia, under "Captivity" and "Casualty." Not one of these authors or editors refers to Tobler (see previous note), or mentions any actual transaction, not even Henry Moryson's. For the other transaction here quoted, see an extract from George Stoddard's MS. accounts in H. Hall's _Society in the Elizabethan Age_, P. 53.

[128] Hatfield MSS., x, 135.

[129] Cal. S. P. For. 1581-82, p. 43; confirmed by Bodl. MS., Rawlinson, C. 799.

[130] Brit. Mus. MS. Harleian, 943.

[131] Cal. S. P. Ven., xiv, 569.

[132] By Gölnitz, pp. 665, 666.

[133] Brit. Mus. MS. Harleian, 943.

[134] Bodl. MS., Rawlinson, C. 799.

[135] Cal. S. P. Ven., 392.

[136] Brit. Mus. MS. Harleian, 943.

[137] Giustiniani.

[138] Hakluyt Soc., 87, pp. 114, 115.

[139] Moryson, the main authority for the tourists' money matters, mentions the practice, but an actual instance of its usefulness will be found related by Sobieski in the extract printed by Liske.

[140] Hatfield MSS. (1595), p. 184.

[141] Hatfield MSS., x, 460; _cf._ Duke of Buccleugh's _Winwood Papers_ (Hist. MSS. Com., 1899, 46), i, 188.

[142] Röhricht, pp. 273, 274.

[143] Cal. S. P. Ven., ix, 237.

[144] Montagu Papers (Hist. MSS. Com., 1900, 45), p. 124.

[145] Bodl. MS., Rawlinson, C. 799.

[146] Brit. Mus. MS., Sloane, 4217.

[147] Tommaseo, _Relations des Ambassadeurs Vénitiens sur ... France_, 1838, ii, 284.

[148] See note 11.

[149] Röhricht, pp. 248, 249.

[150] Bodl. MS., Rawlinson, C. 799.

[151] Birch, _Court and Times of James I_, i, 139.

[152] Locatelli.

[153] J. A. Fischer, _Scots in Germany_, p. 45. _Cf._ also A. Schultze's _Ueber Gästerecht und Gastgerichte in den deutschen Städten des Mittelalters_ in _Historische Zeitschrift_, 1908, pp. 473-528.

[154] Taylor, _International Law, sub voce_.

[155] De Villers (see Bibliography under Aarssen).

[156] E. Nys, _op. cit._ vol. 16, p. 189.

[157] _Cf._ Helmolt's _History of the World_, vii, 122-133.

[158] Taken mainly from accounts printed in Morel-Fatio's, _L'Espagne au 16^e et au 17^e siècle_.

[159] _Works_, 1839, i, xix-xxiv.

[160] _Œuvres_, 1723, ii, 262.

[161] Hist. MSS. Com., Various (Miss Buxton's MSS.), ii, 274.

[162] _Cf._, in particular, under "Ideas" in the index.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

O blessed Letters! that combine in one, All Ages past and make one live with all; By you, we do confer with who are gone, And the dead-living unto Council call. By you, the unborn shall have communion Of what we feel and what doth us befall.

Samuel Daniel (1562-1619; in "Musophilus").

The literature of the subject as a whole is absolutely inexhaustible, the contemporary part alone being sufficient to provide anyone with recreation—and sleep—for ten years. Including a few whose accounts I have had to read in translation, or even in paraphrase (such as that of Bisoni mentioned below), the number of travellers on whose evidence I have drawn first-hand amounts to over two hundred and thirty; but this number could certainly be doubled, perhaps trebled, by any one who found it practicable to devote to the subject all the time and money it could employ, inasmuch as there are probably few libraries of long standing which do not contain a manuscript account of a journey at this period; some contain them by the dozen. Besides this, there are many printed accounts little less inaccessible than most manuscripts. The most convenient library for consulting contemporary editions of these printed narratives is Marsh's Library, Dublin, where one set of shelves is given up to them; there they will be found by the score, besides having a sub-heading ("Itinera") to themselves in the catalogue.

This appendix, therefore, can concern itself with nothing but actual accounts of journeys, and that only in some abbreviated form. The method followed is this. First comes a list of the MSS. that I have been able to obtain the opportunities to read (very few, unfortunately); then another list, of printed books, consisting of those which are bibliographies or serve as such, and of accounts of journeys not mentioned in these bibliographical works: together with some notes on certain recent editions of books which are there mentioned.

Asterisks indicate bibliographies; square brackets, books my knowledge of which is second-hand: while, in order to obviate needless suffering on the part of any who may feel inclined for a little further acquaintance with these accounts, the names of the authors of the more readable are printed in heavier type. It may as well be said that the value of most of these narratives consists simply in their having been written three hundred years ago.

The second list is one of authors' names, but topographical guidance is provided in the index by means of the abbreviation "BIBL"[iography] added as a sub-heading to place-names, followed by the names of the authors who are of assistance with regard to that place; _e. g._:—

"=Spain=" BIBL.: Wynn.

After such names will sometimes be found numbers; these refer back to the Table of Special References. It is taken for granted that every one of these bibliographical books will be recognized as adding information about many countries, since however strictly the scope of each may be limited, it will include travellers who came from, and went in, all directions.

References to accounts, generally fragments, which have appeared in periodical form only, have had to be restricted to the more interesting; most of which are to be found in the Table of Special References. For further sources not indicated in detail, bibliographies of national history, correspondence, biographies, records of embassies and prefaces to the last-named, especially to the Venetian "Relazioni" edited by Barozzi and Berchet, have all proved particularly useful. All the later publications of the Historical MSS. Commission (the earlier contain indications of MSS. in private hands, but no more than the titles are given) and all the Calendars of State Papers which include the required years, have been examined up to the end of the publications for 1908, at least.

As to non-contemporary sources of information, I have used them only for negative purposes—to decide which of two travellers is the bigger liar, for instance; or to avoid displaying more ignorance than is necessary on those elementary points of geography which everybody is supposed to know and nobody does; etc., etc. Some exceptions to this procedure seemed reasonable; but these are made obvious. Any statement of objective fact, indeed, seems to me impracticable in connection with such a subject as this. My aim has been merely at approximate subjective accuracy; to study, that is, the psychology of the subject, conscious and sub-conscious; and its phenomena only in so far as they are causes of, or symbolize, the psychology. Students are requested to hear this statement with the ear of faith, remembering that all such attempts have to be heavily peptonized if expenses are to be paid, as this one's must be, by those in whom the spirit indeed is willing but the digestion weak. And even students—!

But when all limitations of aim have been granted, it must be admitted further that a summary of the experiences and thoughts of scores of individuals, and of the thousands they stand for, over a period of more than a century and extending over all one continent and into fractions of two others, must be mainly remarkable as an anthology of half-truths.

Further still, to those who may notice that the half-truths are less stereotyped, the detail less hackneyed, than might have been the case, I should like to say that the credit of that is largely due to the London Library, without which this book would probably not have seemed worth writing or worth publishing; and that my debt is by no means only to the books and to the librarian's readiness to add to them, but also to the exceptional ability, and equally exceptional willingness, of the staff to help. It is only fair to mention, too, in speaking of bibliographical assistance, how much I am indebted to that furnished in the numbers of "Revue Historique." Acknowledgments are also due to the owners of the originals of the illustrations. No trouble has been spared to make the book the best illustrated existing for the period dealt with, with the necessary exception of the two quarto volumes of Van Vaernewyck's "Mémoires d'un Patricien Gantois"; all the photographs have been specially taken (except that of Rabelais' receipt) from the best procurable originals, often unique ones. For translations and information from Polish sources my sincere thanks are due to members of the Polish Circle in London, Mr. A. Zaleski in particular; and for help in various ways, which includes encouragement, to many others, especially Mr. Hubert Hall and Professor Gollancz, and, most of all, to my wife.

MSS. USED

=Bodleian Library.=

Rawlinson, C. 799. R. Bargrave's narrative, already frequently quoted: reliable, & especially useful for economic data. He went to Constantinople (1646), returned overland (1648); went again (1654), returning viâ Venice.

D. 120 Anon. France, Italy, & Switzerland (1648-49).

D. 121. Anon. Italy (1651).

D. 122. John Ashley: account of a stay at Jerusalem in 1675: details of expenses at the end.

D. 1285. Sir T. Abdy. France & Italy 1633-35.

D. 1286. Anon. Italy & Spain 1605-06.

=British Museum.=

Add. 34177. ff. 22-50. "Account of a journey over Mont Cenis into Italy": 1661.

Harleian, 288. "Direction for some person who intended to travel into France & Italy; being a short account of the roads, chief cities & of some rarities worthy to be seen." (End of the 16th century?)

Harleian, 942/3 and 1278. Note-books of Richard Symonds used in France & Italy (1648-49), no. 943 being the more valuable as containing his diary & detailed expenses.

Harleian, 3822. Journey throughout Spain (1599-1600) by Diego Cuelbis, the author, & his companion Joel Koris. Written in Spanish although the author was of Leipzig.

Egerton, 311. Visits to shrines in Spain, Provence, & Italy in 1587 by a proxy of Philip II.

Lansdown, 720. The frequent references to this MS. will have shown how useful it is. Among many other points that give it value are the excellent drawing of the bust of Petrarch at Arqua, soon afterwards destroyed, and a copy of the subsequently effaced epitaph of Clément Marot at Turin (fol. 37 b). The MS. is anonymous, but the author may be identified as Nicolas Audebert (1556-98), son of Germain Audebert. Beckmann (q. v.) had already established the identity of "le sieur Audeber," whose "Voyage et Observations en Italie" were published at Paris in 1656, with Nicolas Audebert, and that the author of the printed book is the same as he who wrote the MS. is suggested by the relations of both with Aldrovandi (MS. fol. 101 b). More definite evidence is obtainable from an article on Nicolas in the Revue Archéologique (3rd series, vol. 10, pp. 315-322), by means of the dates on his letters written from Italy. In view of this identification it may be worth mentioning that the author's birthday was April 25 (fol. 558) & that he was elected "president de l'Université" of Bologna in Nov. 1575 (fol. 86 b), a year in which the name of the rector has not hitherto been known.

Sloane, 4217. A honeymoon trip, a pilgrimage, & a tragedy combined. Lady Catherine Whetenal, the subject (it is written by her servant, Richard Lascells), after being married at Louvain, travelled to Rome for the year of jubilee, 1650: but on her return journey gave birth to a still-born child at Padua, & there died.

Stowe, 180. Constantinople & the Levant in 1609, as seen by a "Mr. Stampes"; its value consists in its exemplification of the limitations of the ordinary tourist.

=Tournay Library.=

159. Journey of the Comte de Solre, Sieur de Molenbais, from Solre, near Dinant, in Belgium, to the court of Philip II of Spain 1588: viâ Genoa.

160. Journeys of J. de Winghe, founder of the library (1587-1607). Earlier journeys to Italy, Vienna, & Prague; later ones to shorter distances around Tournai.

PRINTED BOOKS

Aarssen, F. van, belonged to a Dutch family which was accustomed to take part in public affairs (_cf._ especially preface to "Lettres inédites de François d'Aarssen (his father) à Jacques Valcke," 1599-1603, by J. Nouaillac, Paris, 1908), and there is record of some journeying by himself & relatives in the middle of the 17th century, as part of the training of the younger generation. The very interesting "Voyage d'Espagne" (published 1656) attributed to him is now known to have been written by Antoine de Brunel, his companion; but Aarssen's own notes on the preceding journey, through Italy, will be found in vol. 3 of the "Atti del Congresso Internazionale di Scienze Storiche," Rome, 1906. The "Journal d'un Voyage à Paris" of the cousins of the above, the Sieurs de Villers, was published by A. P. Faugère (1862) [and by L. Marillier, 1899].

*Adelung, F. von. "Krit-literarische Übersicht der Reisenden in Russland bis 1700": 2 vols. 1846. The promises implied by the title are fulfilled so thoroughly & so exhaustively that the "Catalogue ... des Russica" published by the Imperial Library of St. Petersburg in 1873 (Index of travellers thither up to 1700, vol. 2, p. 702) in no way supersedes the former, although it has some additions to make.

*Amat di San Filippo, P. "Biografía dei Viaggiatori Italiani, colla bibliografía delle loro opere" Rome, 1882. (Società Geogràfica Italiana.)

*=Babeau=, A. "Les Voyageurs en France, depuis la Renaissance jusqu'a la Révolution." 1885.

=Beatis=, Antonio de, accompanied Cardinal Luigi d'Aragona through Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, & France (1517-18). His narrative is printed in L. Pastor's "Erläuterungen ... zu Jannsen's Geschichte," IV, 4, Freiburg, 1905, with a detailed German paraphrase, & notes which add very greatly to its value. A readable English paraphrase will be found in the Quarterly Review, July, 1908. The author was an acute and observant man with wide interests, who travelled under the most favourable conditions. He also came into contact with many of the most attractive personalities in Europe during his journey, among them Lionardo da Vinci, particulars of a long conversation with whom at Amboise he records.

Bertie, Robert (afterwards Lord Willoughby). Letters written while in France (1598-99) are printed in the Earl of Ancaster's MSS. (Hist. MSS. Com.) 1907 (pp. 340-348) together with one from his brother Henry (pp. 390-392; 1617; Constantinople & Italy), and diary of another Robert (1647-49) during travel in France, (pp. 418-421).

*Beckmann, J. "Literatur der ältern Reisebeschreibungen": 2 vols. Göttingen, 1807-10. Contains good notices of many very rare books.

=Bisoni=, Bernardo, accompanied Vincenzo Giustiniani, Marchese di Bassano, through Germany, the Low Countries, England, and France, in 1606. His MS., now at the Vatican, has been paraphrased into French by E. Rodocanachi (1899) under the title of "Aventures d'un Grand Seigneur Italien à travers l'Europe" with appendices.

Bonnaffé, E. "Voyages et Voyageurs de la Renaissance," 1895. In the main a pleasant résumé of accounts that are common property, but contains much supplementary detail not used by other writers.

*Boucher de la Richarderie, G. "Bibliothèque Universelle des Voyages; 1808;" vols. 1, 2, 3.

Brereton: Sir William. Travels in great Britain & Low Countries, 1634-35. Printed by Chetham Society, vol. 1.

Breuning von Buchenbach, Hans Jakob; well known as an Oriental traveller, also came as ambassador to England, 1595, from Duke Frederick of Württemberg. Rye (q. v.) refers to him, but was dependent on Sattler's history of Württemberg & on some letters among English State Papers; but Breuning's own detailed account of the journey has since been printed by the Stuttgart Lit. Verein (vol. 81).

*Brown, P. Hume. "Early Travellers in Scotland," 1891.

Buchell, Arend van, An antiquary of Utrecht, whose "Commentarius ... rerum quotidianarum" includes records of journeys between 1584 and 1591. The text of his "Iter Italicum" has been printed by Soc. Romana di Storia Patria (1900-02) with notes by Rodolfo Lanciani; a translation of the parts concerning Germany begins in vol. 84 of the Hist. Verein für den Niederrhein, 1907 & of those concerning France under the title of "Description de Paris" in the Mémoires of the Soc. de l'histoire de Paris, vol. 26, 1899. Brief selections from the whole in the original Latin, forming a varied & useful miscellany, will be found in vol. 21 of Series III of the Historisch Gezelschap te Utrecht (1907).

=Busbecq's= letters (see chapter 1) are most conveniently read in Forster & Daniel's "Life & Letters." 1881. All the letters are translated there.

=Busino=, Orazio; chaplain to the Venetian Ambassador Contarini in England and Spain (1617-18). For an account of the MSS. in which he tells his experiences with exceptional brightness & point, see Barozzi & Berchet's "Relazioni," Series IV, pp. 192-195. Rawdon Brown's translation of what referred to England is among the transcripts he presented to the Record Office in London; a résumé of this was printed in the Quarterly Review, July, 1857. On the latter I have had to be wholly dependent, but part of the translation has just become available in print in the Calendar of the State Papers (Venetian) for 1617-19.

Carmoly, E. "Itinéraires de la Terre-Sainte," 1847. All the itineraries are Jewish ones dating from the 13th to 17th centuries, translated from the Hebrew.

[Carve, Thomas; "Itinerarium," mainly in Germany during the Thirty Years' War; but also Low Countries, England & Ireland. Rare, quaint & valuable. In three parts; only complete edition, 1859. Cf. Dict. Nat. Biog.]

=Casola=, Pietro. M. Margaret Newett's "Canon Pietro Casola's Pilgrimage to Jerusalem," 1907: no. 5 of the Historical Series in the Publications of the University of Manchester. This pilgrimage took place in 1494, but the editor's researches among Venetian archives throw much fresh light on the later phases of the subject.

Cecily, princess; see Roy. Hist. Soc., vol. 12.

*Chandler, F. W., "Literature of Roguery," 1899, contains a very full bibliography of picaresque literature & an analysis of much of it.

Chaworth, Sir G., went as special ambassador to Brussels in 1621. His account of the journey & of his preparations for it are printed in A. J. Kempe's "Losely MSS." 1835.

=Chiericati=, Francesco. His letter concerning Ireland with three concerning England are printed in "Quattro Documenti d' Inghilterra ed uno di Spagna dell' Archivio Gonzaga di Mantova," edited by Attilio Portioli, Mantua, 1868. For further information and more letters see biography by B. Morsolin.

=Clara Eugenia=, the Infanta. The letter already referred to is printed in the "Boletin de la Real Academía de la Historia," Madrid, vol. 49, pp. 30-50.

*Cobham, C. D. "Excerpta Cypria," 1908. Extracts from the accounts of writers who visited Cyprus, together with an exceptionally thorough bibliography. As so many who went to Jerusalem touched at Cyprus, the book may serve as a bibliography to chapter 5; also for travel generally over a wider period than this.

Courthop, Sir G. (France, Italy, Malta, Constantinople, 1636-39.) In Camden Soc. Miscellany, vol. 11.

=Cuellar=, Captain, who was wrecked on the Irish coast in a ship which sailed with the Spanish Armada of 1588, wrote a letter describing his adventures in Ireland & Scotland which has several times been translated or paraphrased since the publication of the text in Duro's "La Armada Invencible" (1885). The best version is that in Allingham's "Adventures of Captain Cuellar in Connacht & Ulster," 1897.

*=Cust=, Mrs. Henry. "Gentlemen Errant," 1909. Annotated & explanatory paraphrases of the experiences of Leo von Rösmital, Wilwolt von Schaumburg, Frederick II, Elector Palatine of the Rhine, & Hans von Schweinichen. The dates range between 1465 & 1602 & the countries visited include most of Europe. Of the bibliography the utmost that can be said is that it is worth consulting; but the rest of the book is valuable as summarizing much that has not been really accessible; and is very readable.

*=Dallam=, Thomas. See Hakluyt Soc., vol. 87.

"Diarium Terræ Sanctæ," a quarterly periodical beginning March 1, 1908, issued from the monastery of San Salvatore at Jerusalem dealing with the work carried on there, past and present. It came under my notice too late to use.

*=Einstein=, L. "The Italian Renaissance in England," 1902. The subject frequently comes into touch with touring & the bibliography is very full, especially as regards guide-books.

Falkiner, C. L. "Illustrations of Irish History & Topography," 1904. Contains extracts from the narratives of several travellers of the 16th & 17th centuries who visited Ireland, including that of =Josias Bodley= & some otherwise unprinted paragraphs from Moryson.

=Fanshawe=, Lady Ann. Two editions of her reminiscences have been published recently, 1905 & 1907. The latter is by far the more fully annotated and authoritative.

*[Farinelli, A. "Apuntes y divagaciones bibliográficas sobre viajes y viajeros por España y Portugal," with a supplement, "Mas apuntes," etc., Madrid, 1903.]

*Fouché-Delbosc, R., published a detailed bibliography of journeys in Spain & Portugal in the "Revue Hispanique," vol. 3, 1896, issued separately in the same year ("Bibliographie des Voyages en Espagne et en Portugal"). It is absolutely indispensable not only as regards travel within those countries, but outside them as well.

Guzman, Alonso de. See Hakluyt Soc., vol. 29.

*Hagemans, G. "Relations inédites d'ambassadeurs venitiens dans le Pays-Bas," 1865. Besides the direct bearing on the subject that all such "Relazioni" have, the notes to this book contain references to several still unpublished MSS.

*Hantzsch, Victor. "Deutsche Reisende des 16ten Jahrhunderts"; Leipzig, 1895, part 4 of vol. 1 of Leipziger Studien aus dem Gebiet der Geschichte. Brief, lucid notices of many typical adventurers of German blood all over the world in the 16th century. Indispensable by reason of its very full references to books & MSS.

Hoby, Sir Thomas (France, Germany, Italy, Flanders, 1547-64); in Camden Soc. Miscellany, vol. 10.

Khitrowo, B. de. "Itinéraires Russes en Orient." French translations of Russian MSS., published by the Soc. de l'Orient Latin. The promised second volume does not seem to have been issued, but though only a few of the itineraries in this first volume are late enough to be available for questions of fact, the whole is very valuable as a revelation of temperament.

Lauder, J., of Fountainhall. See Scot. Hist. Soc., vol. 36.

*Łosinski, W., "Zycie polskie w dawnych wiekach wiek xvi-xvii." ("Polish Life in the 16th & 17th centuries"), 2nd edition, Lemberg, 1908. Contains notices of Polish travel and travellers.

*=Locatelli=, S., an Italian priest who went to Paris & back (1664-65) & whose narrative has been in part translated from the Italian MS. by A. Vautier ("Voyage de France," 1905), who adds a good bibliography & notes. Its value consists in the author belonging to that type of man who does not hesitate to write what most people are content, sometimes more than content, to keep to themselves. Combined with his extreme poverty of mind & vanity, this leads him into relating many trivialities which help to define more clearly the incidentals, & the psychology, of contemporary touring.

Maulde, François de (Modius); for the adventures of this learned Fleming (1556-97) mainly in Germany, see two articles by A. Roersch in the Revue Générale. May & June, 1907, based on his MS. autobiography at Munich. [Also P. Lehmann's "Franciscus Modius als Handschriftenforscher," 1908, in Quellen und Untersuchungen zur lateinischen Philologie des Mittelalters, III, 1.]

=Montaigne=, Michel de. English translation of his Journal by W. G. Waters, 1903. [Latest edition of the text edited by L. Lautrey, Paris, 1906.]

*D'Ancona's edition (Città di Castello, 1889: 2nd ed. 1895) contains an excellent critical bibliography concerned with foreigners' travel in Italy.

=Moryson=, Fynes, published his "Itinerary" in 1617 in a form that has proved the equivalent of a burial. A fine reprint, the only one, was issued in 1907, in a series which includes other travel records of this period. The better part of what Moryson himself left unprinted appeared under the editorship of C. Hughes under the title "Shakespeare's Europe" in 1903. See also under "Falkiner."

*Mundy, Peter. For his travels in European Europe (1608-28) see Hakluyt Soc., Series II, vol. 17, to which a useful bibliography of MSS. & printed works is appended. A second volume will be partly concerned with northern Europe.

Possevino, the Jesuit, besides his "Moscovia" (1587) wrote letters to his superiors while engaged on his mission thither (1581-82), as did his brother-Jesuit Campan. A contemporary digest of these letters was printed by Father Pierling (Paris, 1882) under the title "Missio Moscovitica." In the editor's other books on the relations between the Tsars & the Popes will be found indications of other travellers, notably in his "L'Italie et la Russie."

*Röhricht, R., "Bibliographia Geographica Palæstinæ," (2nd edition, 1890) a chronological bibliographical list of all accounts of visits to Palestine

and

*"Deutsche Pilgerreisen nach dem Heiligen Lande" (2nd edition, 1900), another work of extraordinary research, giving the names of every German whom the author has found to have visited Jerusalem between 1300 & 1700, with an account of the journey whenever remarkable. To a 26-page introduction are appended 377 notes, with an enormous number of detailed bibliographical references, a large proportion of which are to MSS. located all over Europe.

*Rye, W. B. "England As Seen By Foreigners in the Days of Queen Elizabeth & James I," 1865. Annotated extracts prefaced by a long and valuable introduction containing all that has since become, in England, the commonplaces of the subject. In view of this latter fact, I have quoted as exclusively as is reasonable from writers whom Rye overlooked or who visited England outside the dates within which Rye confined himself.

*Saint-Genois, J. L. D. "Les Voyageurs Belges." 2 vols. 1846. Biographies, in several cases drawing on MS. sources.

=Sastrow=, Bartholomew. [Latest (modernized) edition of the text of his autobiography, vol. 2 of Schultze's "Bibliothek Wertvoller Memoiren," Hamburg, 1907.] An English translation, by A. Vandam, exists under the title of "Social Germany in Luther's Time." Sastrow's journeys, however, reached as far as Rome.

*Serrano y Sanz, M., "Autobiografías y Memorias" 1905, a volume of the Nueva Biblioteca de Autores Españoles. The long introduction on Spanish autobiographies mentions many travellers of whose accounts I have been able to make practically no use owing to my not knowing of the book in time (see pp. 49, 50, 62, 63, 86, 89, 94, 97 (2), 109, 123, 124, 125, 142, 148; and bibliography of Jerusalem pilgrims' accounts, 55-58). Several of these, however, exist only in MS. in Spain. Great Britain & Scandinavia receive little attention, but plenty of valuable material seems to be included for every other part of Europe; certainly this is so in the narratives (16th-17th centuries) which the author prints.

Sobieski, Jakób, Marshal of the Polish Diet, travelled throughout Europe (1607-13 & 1638). An incomplete MS. was printed by E. Raczynski (Posen, 1833) & the missing portion by A. Kraushar (Warsaw, 1903) from the autograph at the Imperial Library at St. Petersburg. The only part that seems to have been translated is that relating to Spain, in Liske's "Viajes de Extranjeros por España" (a book, by the way, that no one who is interested in 16th century history can fail to be assisted by).

*[Szamota, István, "Régi utazások Magyarországon és a Balkán-félszigeten, 1054-1717" ("Travellers of the past in Hungary and the Balkans, 1054-1717") Budapest, 1891.]

Taylor, John (the "water-poet"). Both his continental journeys—one to Hamburg, the other viâ Hamburg to Prague—have been reprinted by C. Hindley in Taylor's "Works" & also by the Spenser Soc. (vol. 4, pp. 76-100): that to Hamburg only, in Hindley's "Old-Book-Collector's Miscellany."

=Vargas=, Juan de, contemporary with Alonso de Guzman & Sastrow, both of whose narratives he supplements very closely. As a soldier under Charles V in Germany, his remarkable experiences illustrate the present subject: he also saw the wildest life in Hungary & Vienna, & slave-life in Constantinople & Africa. Still more remarkable were his experiences in S. America as a "conquistador." His capacity for telling us what we most want to know, & for telling it well, are so much beyond what might be expected from an uneducated soldier as to raise doubts about the genuineness of the narrative. But the abundance of detail is past invention. It is unmentioned by Serrano y Sanz; the only edition seeming to be the French translation by the owner of the unpublished Spanish MS., C. Navarin, "Les Aventures de Don Juan de Vargas" in the Bibliothèque Elzévirienne, 1853.

=Wotton=, Sir Henry. For all references to Sir Henry Wotton (& for much else) I am indebted to his "Life & Letters" by L. P. Smith (1907). Both his life & his letters come into touch with the travel of the day from various points of view, & frequently; & the same mellowness & intimacy characterize both the reminiscences of Sir Henry Wotton & the comment of his biographer.

Wynn, Sir Richard, followed Prince Charles from England to Spain in 1625. His account of his journey has been printed by Hearne as an appendix to his edition of the "Historia vitae ... Ricardi II," 1729; illiterate & prejudiced, but valuable for its frankness. Halliwell-Phillips reprinted it at the end of his edition of Symonds D'Ewes' autobiography.

=Zetzner=, Johann Eberhard, a descendant of the Strassburg printers of that name, left an autobiography consisting largely of accounts of his journeys in Germany, along the coasts of the Baltic, in England, Scotland, France, & Spain. A paraphrase of the more interesting parts has been printed in three instalments, in French, in the "Revue d'Alsace" [1905-07?] and reissued separately under the titles "Idylle Norvégienne d'un Jeune Négociant Strasbourgeois" (1905), "Londres et l'Angleterre en 1700" (1905), and "Un Voyage d'Affaires en Espagne en 1718 (1907)," all published by the Librairie Noiriel, Strassbourg, edited by Rodolphe Reuss, who has put together in a very readable form matter which is of considerable value not only as a record of things seen, but also in connection with finance & commerce. In spite of the dates being so much later than those of the rest of the books I have used, it seems desirable to include these pamphlets here as containing much that illustrates conditions equally normal a century earlier, & as being, too, of such an out-of-the-way character that they are liable to be overlooked.

INDEX

All names of travellers are indexed, but only those towns concerning which some distinctive detail has been given.

=Aarssen=, F. van; 395.

=Abdy=, Sir T.; 393.

"=Acta Sanctorum=" quoted; 179.

=Allen=, Cardinal; as protector of English at Rome, 111.

=Alps=; _see_ Mountaineering.

=Ambassadors=; _see under_ Embassies, Busbecq, Chaworth, Chiericati, Contarini, Fanshawe, Foix, Glover, Guicciardini, Lionello, Lippomano, Muscorno, Myszkowski, Navagero, Pindar, Sherley, Willes, Wotton.

=Amsterdam=; 117, 281, 329.

=Antwerp=; 122, 252, 291.

=Aragona=, Luigi d' (cardinal); travelling expenses, 317; itinerary, 396.

=Art=; an "Ephesus" statue of Diana, 149; art-student abroad, his difficulties and advantages, 150-1, 376-7; Turkish arts and crafts, 191.

=Aschhausen=, J. G. von (bishop of Würzburg); travelling expenses, 317.

=Ashley=, John; 393.

=Aubigné=, Agrippa d'; his "Les Tragiques" quoted, 349.

=Audebert=, Nicolas; 140, 145; his MS., 394.

=Augsburg=; 119, 141, 152, 291, 350.

=Average Tourist= (_see_ Education, and Tutors, and, for examples, Aarssen, Audebert, Bertie, Browne, Coligny, Davison, Hoby, Lauder, Raleigh, Rohan, Roos, Sobieski, Wotton); the special type of the age, 25; and its development, 26, 319; psychology of, 29, 30, 32, 378-9; instructions to, 37-9, 48, 57-8, 95; and Protestantism, 53-6; objective, 95, 100-1, 114, 118, 130, 132; what he would have to spend, 314-8; subsidized by Queen Elizabeth, 319.

=Awliyáí= Efendi; quoted, 249, 284.

=Babeau=, A.; his "Voyageurs en France" quoted, 270, 284.

=Bacon=, Francis; quoted, 3, 148, 319.

=Barbaro=, Giosaffate; 29.

=Barberini=, Rafael; 383.

=Bargrave=, R; 393.

=Bassompierre=, François, Maréchal de; 108.

=Bathing-resorts=; of western Europe, 3, 267-9; Turkish, 196; the Jordan, 235.

=Battista=, Giovanni (pilgrims' guide at Jerusalem); 230, 239.

=Beasts of prey=; risk from, 355.

=Beatis=, Antonio de; 396; quoted, 162, 299, 381, 385.

=Bergamo=; 114.

=Bernini=, the artist; 98.

=Bertie=, Robert and Henry; 396.

=Bisoni=, Bernardo; 396.

=Blount=, Sir Henry, philosopher-errant; his aims, 8; quoted, 33, 182, 187, 202-3, 213, 358, 360.

=Bodley=, Josias; 51, 400.

=Bologna= University; 103, 310-1, 394.

=Boorde=, Andrew; his "Introduction of Knowledge" as marking the beginning of the period here dealt with, 26; quoted, 27, 50, 154, 173, 247, 348.

=Bosio=, Antonio; his re-discovery of the Catacombs at this time, 108.

=Bouchet=, Jean (Rabelais' "Xenomanes"); 56.

=Boyle=, Robert; 185.

=Brereton=, Sir William; in Holland, 83, 116, 140, 397.

=Breuning=, von Buchenbach, H. J.; 397.

=Bridges=; 82, 288-90, 328.

=Brittany=; neglect of, 144.

=Brooke=, N.; (18th century), 191.

=Browne=, Edward (son of Sir Thomas); 288, 339.

=Brunel=, Antoine de; 395.

=Bruno=, Giordano; at Geneva, 112; in London, 134.

=Buchell=, Arend van, antiquary; 246, 275, 329, 385, 397.

=Busbecq=, A. G. de; Imperial ambassador at Constantinople, and in France, 14; his letters, 14, 398; tries to naturalize camels, 140; quoted, 20, 81, 187, 192, 289.

=Busino=, Orazio; 398.

=Cagots=; 138.

=Cairo=; largest city then known, 8; Bulak asses, 220; and other details, 221, 237, 325; usual excursions from, 222-7.

=Callot=, Jacques, the artist; 321.

=Camden=, W.; quoted, 41, 119, 164.

=Campan=, the Jesuit; 403.

=Captivity= and Ransoms (_see_ Pirates); 56, 71, 101, 201, 203, 346, 356-62, 366.

=Caravans=; 216-9, 228-30, 235-6, 249, 292.

=Carve=, Thomas; 398.

=Casola=, Pietro; 398.

=Cecily=, princess (of Sweden); marries on condition her husband takes her to see Queen Elizabeth, 11; her journey, 11-3; and narrative, 398.

=Cellini=, Benvenuto; adventures, 81, 298; quoted, 363.

=Chamberlain=, John, the letter-writer; 63.

=Channel-crossings=; havens, 60-2; experiences of, 12, 60-4; size of vessels, 64; charges, 328.

=Chapman=, George; quoted, 25.

=Charles II=; his experience of Spanish fare, 262.

=Chartres=; a pilgrimage to, 20.

=Chaworth=, Sir G.; outlay on his embassy to Brussels, 318; his account of it, 398.

=Chiericati=, Francesco; 384, 399.

=Cirot=, G.; his biography of Mariana quoted, 48.

=Clara Eugenia=, the Infanta; journey from Milan to Brussels, 11, 399; quoted, 135, 296-7, 303, 306.

=Cleland's= estimate of annual cost of travel; 315.

=Clothes=; 37, 133, 359, 365-8.

=Coaches= and Waggons; 79, 290-3, 333.

=Coinage=; small change and its bearing on expenses, 341; substitutes for, 346; multiplicity of, a great hindrance to travel, 368-72.

=Coleridge=, S. T.; quoted, 45.

=Coligny=, Francis and Gaspard de; their estimate for a year in Italy, 315.

=Communications=; _see under_ Bridges, Caravans, Coaches, Escorts, Ferries, Litters, Locks, Mountaineering, Riding, River-travel, Road-travel, Sea-travel, Sign-posts, Vetturino.

=Compostella=; 173-4, 320.

=Constantinople=; 122, 194-7, 200-1, 215-6.

=—— Bibl.=; MSS. Rawlinson, C. 799; Stowe, 180; and Bertie, Busbecq, Carmoly, Cobham, Courthop, Dallam, Khitrowo, Moryson, Mundy, Röhricht, Vargas.

=Contarini=, Tommaso; takes peat from Flanders to Italy, 140.

=Conversation=-difficulties; _see_ Linguistics.

=Coryat=, Tom; in Palestine, 232, 329.

=Cost= of Travel in 1600.

=—— Direct= (_see_ Coinage, Fares, Finance, Food, Guides, Licences, Lodging, Luggage, Outfit, Passports, Pilgrimage—Jerusalem, River-travel, Tolls); estimates of annual, 314-7; means of economizing, 318-25; foreigners more liable to overcharge then than now, 330; "conducted" travel, 216, 331-2; crossing the Alps, 332-4; duration of journeys the chief factor in expense, 332-5; in relation to food and lodging generally, 338-41.

=—— Indirect= (_see_ Beasts of Prey, Captivity, Clothes, Droit d'aubaine, Escorts, Illness, Legal Status, Manners and Customs, Pirates, Plague, Robbers, Touring—greater strain of travel, War); defined, 313; epitomized in "Litany," 347.

=Courthop=, Sir G.; 399.

=Cuelbis=, Diego; 393.

=Cuellar=, Captain; 175-6, 399.

=Dallam=, Thomas; 9, 65, 214, 308, 400.

=Dallington's= estimate of annual cost of travel; 315.

=Daniel=, Samuel; quoted, 379, 389.

=Dante=; did not add to the attractions of Florence, 103; quoted, 293.

=Danzig=; 131, 155, 211.

=Davies=, Sir John; quoted, 177, 386.

=Davis=, William; a Protestant sailor, cared for at Rome, 112.

=Davison=, Francis; cannot live abroad on 100 marks a year, 316; quoted, 344.

=Della Valle=, Pietro; a model traveller, 6; life-story, 7; his many interesting experiences on the way to Jerusalem, 205-35; quoted, 50, 88, 90, 191-4, 198, 200, 269.

=Denmark=; 155, 244.

=Digby=, Sir Kenelm; dies in Paris, confiscation of property by "droit d'aubaine," 364.

=Douglas=, Thomas; remits broadcloth to Algiers as a substitute for money, 346.

=Dresden=; 120, 149.

"=Droit d'aubaine="; enforcement and disuse of, 364; its equivalent in Turkey, 196.

=Education=; as related to travel (_see_ Average Tourist, Ideas, Touring—uses of, and,—causes of, Universities), growth of the idea, circ. 1542-1642, as constituting the unity of subject of this book, 25, 26, 158; then and now, 377.

=Elizabeth=, Princess (James I's daughter); a visit to, 129.

=Elizabeth=, Queen; sends an organ to "Grand Turk," 9; is visited by Princess Cecily, 12; her twofold attraction for foreigners, 125-7; as a linguist, 47; and "der Einlasse," 141; subsidizes travel, 318 (_cf._ 346 and 386).

=Embassies= (_see_ Ambassadors, and Spies) facilitate touring to the point of becoming the chief cause of it, 15; system of resident ambassadors developed in 16th century, and why, 15-6; economical advantages to the tourist, 318, 337, 344, 365; French maritime towns send one to Constantinople, 186, 197, 357.

=Empire=, the; communications in, 80, 289, 291; sub-divisions for tourist purposes, 117; characteristics of, 118-21; inns, 242-3, 245, 250, 255-9, 268-9, 283; expenditure in, 336-7, 339-40, 349-53; coinage, 370.

=—— people= of; popularity of travel among, 29; as seen by foreigners, 118-21, 255, 265, 366.

=—— Bibl.=; MS. Tournay 160, Beatis, Bisoni, Breuning, Buchell, Carve, Clara Eugenia, Cust, Guzman, Hoby, Maulde, Montaigne, Moryson, Rye, Sastrow, Sobieski, Taylor, Vargas, Wotton, Zetzner; IV. 1. note 14, VIII. notes 28 and 35.

=England= (_see_ London); as seen by foreigners, 123-30, 267, 343-4; their reasons for coming, 125-6; and usual route, 127; inns, 245; communications, 291; expenditure in, 330-1, 337-8, 349.

=—— Bibl.=; Bisoni, Brereton, Breuning, Busino, Cecily, Einstein, Rye, Sobieski, Zetzner.

=English abroad=; 346, 356, 386 note 5; increase in their numbers and its significance, 25-8; in Italy, 28, 74, 112; innkeepers, 273-4.

=Ens=, Gaspar; one of his guide-books quoted, 49.

=Escorts= (_see_ Communications); 38, 353-4, 357; Janizaries, 198-9, 216, 325.

=Espinel=, Vicente; his "Marcos de Obregon" quoted, 49.

=Este=, Luigi d' (Cardinal); 386.

=Evelyn=, John; visits the Catacombs, 109; goes to see a prisoner tortured, 137; his credulity, typical, 146; cost of his "Grand Tour," 315; quoted, 18, 80, 95, 99, 140, 274, 285, 354.

=Executions=, etc., as "sights" (_see_ Robbers); 136-7.

=Exile=; as a cause of travel; 23-4, 26.

=Fairs=; 114, 144.

=Fanshawe=, Ann, Lady; her journeys and memoirs, 13, 400; quoted, 79, 170, 262, 352, 370.

=——=, Sir Richard; 13, 315, 370.

=Fares= (in Europe); 328-36.

=Ferries= and fords; 287-90, 329.

=Finance= (_see_ Coinage, Cost, "Putting-Out"); equation of money-values, how reckoned, 313-4; methods of ensuring supply of ready-money, 341-2; how coin was carried, 342-3, 372; legal limits to amounts carried and how to evade them, 343-4; fluctuations in values, 338-9, 344-5, 369; remitting by advice, 344-6, 348; letters of credit, barter, and loans, 346-7.

=Finland=; wizards on the coast of, 75.

=Flagellants=; 138.

=Florence=; as attractive then as now, 103; its Zoos, 139; inns, 271, 277.

=Florio=, John; his "First-Fruits" quoted, 27.

=Foix=, Paul de; 13.

=Food=; on board ship, 66, 68, 79, 264-5; in Turkey, 249; drinks, 252-5, 263; meals and meal-times, 255-66, 278-80, 333; cost, 338-41, 349.

=France=; routes, 84, 115, 122; on the rivers in, 79, 82-5; attractions of, 114-6, 268; inns, 255-6, 260, 266, 270-2, 274, 276, 281; on the road in, 285, 289, 291-2, 300, 330, 354; expenditure in, 315, 330, 348-9.

=—— Bibl.=; MSS. Rawlinson D. 120, 1285, Add. 34177, Egerton 34, Harleian 288, 942/3, 1278, Lansdown 720, Tournay 159, 160; Aarssen, Babeau, Beatis, Bertie, Bisoni, Buchell, Busbecq, Busino, Courthop, Cust, Fanshawe, Hoby, Lauder, Locatelli, Montaigne, Mundy, Zetzner; IV. 1. note 4, VIII. note 45.

=Frederick II= (Elector Palatine); 399.

=Fürer=, Christopher, pilgrim; 325, 358.

=Galileo=, G.; 72, 97.

=Galley-slaves=; treatment of, 76, 137-8, 362.

=Games= new to travellers; 153.

=Genoa=; 99, 143.

=Germany=; _see_ Empire.

=Gesner=, Conrad; as a mountaineer, 304.

=Giustiniani=, Vincenzo (Marchese di Bassano); 396.

=Glover=, Sir Thomas; in Thrace, 309.

=Gölnitz=, Abraham; quoted, 129, 252, 256, 269, 285, 343, 387.

=Good=, ——; an Englishman in Ireland, 384.

=Gourville=, J. H. de; "Mémoires" quoted, 266, 311.

=Gracián=, Jeronimo, St. Teresa's confessor; enslaved, 186.

=Gramaye=, J. B.; at Algiers, 356.

=Greece=; lack of interest in, 213.

=Greene=, Robert; quoted, 366.

=Gresham=, ——(?); obtains news from hell at Stromboli, 91.

=Gruberus=; a typical guide-book writer, 35, 204.

=Guicciardini=, Francesco; 16; on Spain, 170.

=Guide-books=; general characteristics of, 35-40, 42-3, 333; itineraries as guide-books, 43-6; advice from, 57-9; doggrel from, 106, 121, 154, 204; a Jewish one, 236; cost, 338.

=—— Bibl.=; Einstein.

=Guides= (_see_ Escorts and Tutors); 333; in Mohammedan lands, 210.

=Guzman=, Alonzo de; his autobiography, 23, 401; quoted, 51, 280.

=Hall=, Joseph (bishop); his abuse of travel—in word and in deed, 374.

=Harington=, Sir J.; 142.

=Hentzner=, P.; typical character of his "Itineraria," 44; quoted, 60, 120, 343, 353.

=Herbert=, Lord, of Cherbury; 61, 275.

=Hoby=, Sir Thomas; 336, 401.

=Holland=; _see_ United Provinces.

=Horsey=, Sir Jerome; 244.

=Howell=, James; his "Instructions for Foreign Travel" taken as marking the end of the period here dealt with, 26; estimate of cost of travel, 315; quoted, 36, 71, 122, 276, 303.

=Hungary=; 156, 289, 311, 339.

=—— Bibl.=; Szamota, Vargas.

=Ideas of the Day= in relation to travel:—influencing travellers; political (monarchical), 25, 31, 33, 95, 115-6, 118, 164; historical, 40, 109, 110, 166-7, 185, 206; æsthetic, 103, 214, 302-7; lack of sympathy or sentimentality (_see_ also theology, intolerance), 136-7, 144; critical, 145-6, 148, 214-5, 239, 301; pedagogic, 38-40, 58, 60, 95, 378-9; relating to the Empire, 119, 351; to Spain, 162-70, 261-3, 351; to Ireland, 175-9; to the Turks, 182-9, 193; to Jerusalem, 205-6; to Italy, 95-100, 103, 302; to the fascination of Queen Elizabeth, 125-7; where to stay, 101, 163.

=—— modified by travel= (_see_ Touring, uses of); 27; historical, 33, 105, 167; town-planning, 117, 378; economic and domestic, 113, 116, 120, 140-2, 169-70, 201-2; political (democratic), 119, 120; trustworthiness of relics, 19; Scottish opinion of Scots, 32; concerning Italy, 100; and Venice, 105; of Christians about themselves, 171, 199; Turkish craftmanship and character, 191.

=Illness= (_see_ Plague, and Touring, hardships of); provision against, 66, 360-2; mortality at sea, 67-8; and on the Alps, 295-6; hospitals, 112, 362; abundance of vermin, 59, 67-8, 121, 241, 309, 360.

=Imperiali=, Gian Vincenzo; 381.

=Inns= (_see_ Food, and Lodging); 46, 351, 372; the best, 240-1, 268; inn-signs, 240, 250-2; innkeepers, 241, 245, 273-80; and their case against the tourists, 272-83; the personnel, 245, 275, 281; utensils, 266-7; government supervision strict, 271-2; town watchmen notify innkeepers of new arrivals, 282; "Khans," 247-50; free quarters, 249, 265, 280-1, 319-20, 325.

=Ireland=; 175-181, 378 (Dublin); scarcity of knowledge about, 41, 179-80; accommodation, 245, 265.

=—— Bibl.=; Carve, Chiericati, Cuellar, Falkiner, Moryson; VI. note 7.

=Italy= (_see_ English abroad); high reputation in 16th century, 6, 95-100, 254, 302; adverse criticism, 100, 373; communications in, 82-3, 85-7, 285-94, 329-32; usual routes through, 102, 114; inns, 241, 252, 256, 259-60, 271-2; baths, 267-8; expenditure in, 330-1, 336; coinage, 369, 372.

=—— people= of; 114, 366; travelling coming into fashion with Venetians, (1603), 26; courtesans, 106, 143.

=—— Bibl.= All but a very few entries refer to Italy to some extent.

=Jemsel=, Samuel; a Jewish pilgrim (1641), 236.

=Jerusalem= (_see_ Pilgrimage); relation to mental life of the time, 205-7; monastery of S. Salvatore at, 210, 230, 323; as seen by foreigners, 230-4, 360; extortion at, 323-5.

=—— Bibl.= MS. Rawlinson D. 122; Carmoly, Casola, Cobham, Diarium, Khitrowo, Moryson, Röhricht, Serrano.

=Jews=; interest in, 8, 217; as linguists, 50; their badges, 139; centres, 214, 236; as travellers (to Palestine), 235-8.

=Johanna=, Frau (of Antwerp), a pilgrim; enslaved, 359.

=Jonson=, Ben; as tutor, 56; quoted, 103.

=Jouvin= de Rochefort; 384.

=Jusserand=, J.; his "English Wayfaring Life" and comparison of its types with those of 1600, 17.

=Kiechel=, S.; 384.

=Knight-Errant=; of fiction as a cause of travel, 22; typified by Alonzo de Guzman, 23; one in a cart, 291.

=Kochanowski=, Jan; Polish satirist, 373, 378.

=Koris=, Joel; 393.

=La Brocquière=, Bertrandon de (15th century); quoted, 99.

=Lascells=, Richard, pedagogue; 394.

=Lassota=, Erich; 383.

=Latin=; _see_ Linguistics.

=Lauder=, John, of Fountainhall; his diary, 31, 401; studies law—and other things—at Poitiers, 31-2; seasick, 77; quoted, 49, 53, 272, 370.

=Legal status= of the traveller (_see_ Droit d'aubaine); 246, 271, 365; at Geneva, 112.

=Leipzig=; 4, 136.

=Levant= Company; 8.

=——, Islands= of the; particularly attractive to travellers, 88; some details, 88-94.

=Leyden=; 4.

=Licences= to travel; _see_ Passports.

=Linguistics=; Latin, its uses and limitations, 46-49, 215; Italian and French as international languages, 49, 50; "lingua franca" and other hybrids, 50-1; misunderstandings, 46, 49, 51, 52, 230-1, 249; tourist-pronunciation as a guide to phonology, 52; towns, etc., in favour for purity of language, 103, 115, 121; Jews as linguists, 50; books as aids to conversation, 52, 245; ignorance of, and lack of interest in, Greek, 213; in Turkey, 193, 249.

=Lionello= (secretary to Venetian ambassador); expenses, London, Edinburgh, 331.

=Lippomano=, G.; in Poland, 132; in France, 353.

=Liske,= K.; his "Viajes ... por España" quoted, 383, 387, 404.

=Lithgow=, William; becomes a bad traveller and a worse writer, 10; extent of his travels and consequent value of his comparisons, 10-1, 89, 123; quoted, 54, 72, 88, 179, 203, 219, 232-5, 323, 342.

=Litters= the least uncomfortable method of travel; 290.

=Locatelli=, S.; 401.

=Locks= (on rivers); then being introduced, and where, 82, 83, 116.

=Lodging=; towns the stopping-places, 101; monasteries, 225-6, 230, 319; downstairs, 143, 244, 247, 266; upstairs, 37, 59, 240-50, 265, 269-71.

=London= and Londoners; 120, 134, 140, 153, 289.

=Loreto=; 107-8.

=Loyola=, Ignazio; journeys to England and Flanders as a beggar, 320.

=Lübeck=; 120, 152, 251.

=Ludwig V= of Hessen-Darmstadt; pays a knight to journey with him, 317.

=Luggage=; (_see_ Outfit); 291, 335-6.

=Lyons=; 84, 343, 376.

=Madrid=; 165, 174.

=Malta=; 91, 113, 399.

=Manners and Customs= (_see_ Droit d'aubaine, Inns, Theology, intolerance, Vetturino, and under the various nationalities); in the Levant, 88-90; treatment of foreigners, 111-2, 132-5, 159, 170-1, 176, 197-8, 213, 231, 296, 311, 330, 343-4; drunkenness, 133, 160, 192-3, 242, 254-5, 291, 340; odds and ends, 135-54, 171, 174, 190, 246, 250, 277, 282, 312, 321, 332, 366; carrier-pigeons and incubation in use among Mohammedans, 193.

=Manwaring=, ——; an Englishman ill-treated at Aleppo, 198.

=Maps and Plans=; 52, 333; rivers marked, but not roads, 78.

=Marlowe's= "Tamburlane"; quoted, 185.

=Maulde=, François de (Modius); 402.

=Mechanical devices= as "sights"; water, 151-2, 174; other kinds, 141, 152.

=Messina=; its municipal bank, 113.

=Milan=; 100, 147, 337; its importance then, 102, 120.

=Mines=; 155-6, 294.

=Missionaries-errant=; scarcity of, 24.

=Mole=, John, a Protestant tutor; imprisoned thirty years at Rome, 54.

=Money-matters=; _see_ Cost.

=Montaigne=, Michel de; as a traveller, 3-4, 105; usefulness of his knowledge of Latin, 47; his theory of travel, 57; his narrative, 402; quoted, 43, 107, 138, 186, 266, 268, 285, 338, 376.

=Montpensier=, Mlle. de; 270.

=Montserrat=; 19, 173, 281, 366.

=Morelli=, Jacopo; essay on little-known Venetian travellers quoted, 29.

=Morgenthal=, Hans von; 382.

=Moryson=, Fynes; his journeys, 4-5; writings, 5, 402; at Rome and Geneva, 111; expenditure, 316, 323, 348; quoted, 52, 65, 78, 100, 120, 131, 137, 140, 142, 153, 179, 186, 192, 198-9, 201, 231, 245, 257-60, 296, 298, 321, 326, 330, 343, 353, 385.

=——=, Henry; journey to Jerusalem, death and epitaph, 4-5; "puts out" money, 326.

=Moscow=; 157.

=Mountaineering=; Alpine passes in use and details of crossing, 294-9, 306, 332, 334; other passes, 212, 299, 300; ideas about, for and against, 300-6.

=—— ascents=; Horeb and Sinai, 226-7; Quarantana (Palestine), 235; Les Jumelles (Pau), 300; Roche Rommelon (Alps), 301-2.

=Mundy=, Peter; 14, 402; quoted, 82, 217, 260, 307, 386.

=Münster=; his "Cosmography," 43, 146.

=Murder= of travellers; _see_ Robbery.

=Muscorno= (secretary of Venetian ambassador in England); cost of journey thither, 335.

=Muscovy=; 156-62, 327, 342; communications in, 80, 156, 293, 355; lodging, 244, 266, 319; fare, 253, 264; an innkeeper of Nerva, 280; expenses of an Englishman's journey thither, 335; coinage, 371.

=—— people of=; hostility to travel, 159, 367; as seen by foreigners, 159-61, 346; on the way to Jerusalem, 211, 224-5.

=—— Bibl.=; Adelung, Khitrowo, Mundy, Possevino.

=Myszkowski=, Marshal of the Polish Diet; in England, 128.

=Naples=; 7, 113, 120, 138, 252, 292, 320, 343; a St. John's Eve ceremony at, 145.

=Nashe=, Thomas; quoted, 33.

=Navagero=, Andrea; in Spain, 48, 337.

=Netherlands=, Spanish; 122.

=—— Bibl.=; MS. Tournay 159; Beatis, Bisoni, Breuning, Buchell, Carve, Chaworth, Clara Eugenia, Cust, Hagemans, Hoby.

=Newberie=, John; his tale of the Isola dei Diavoli, 93.

=Nîmes=; its amphitheatre in 1682, 376.

=Noë=, Father; his guide-book, 42-3; quoted, 77.

=Northumberland=, ninth earl of; letter to his son about travel, 58.

=Norway=; 346, 406.

=Nützel=, Karl; ("the German Ulysses") pays 300% for a loan, 346.

=Ogier=, Charles; 385.

=O'Sullivan=, Philip, the historian; quoted, 179.

=Outfit=; (_see_ Clothes and Luggage), 37, 135; for Jerusalem pilgrimage, 66, 325.

=Overbury=, Sir Thomas; quoted, 350.

=Padua=; (_see_ Universities), 4, 231, 320-1, 329.

=Paris=; 115, 145, 153, 251-2, 289-91, 362, 372, 397.

=Parsons=, Robert, the Jesuit; at Geneva, 112.

=Pasquier=, Etienne; his verdict on touring, 375.

=Passports and Licences=; official restrictions, 54-5; "charte-partie," 76; licences to wear weapons, 135; in Mohammedan lands, 198; Jerusalem "Placets," 209; licences to beg used by tourists, 320-1; cost of English ones, 337-8; "bills of health," 360-1.

=Patron Saints=; of travellers, 44; of those who stay at inns, 251; of seafarers, 75.

=Payen of Meaux=; quoted, 363, 383.

=Payne=, R.; 385.

=Perlin=, a French visitor in England; quoted, 344.

=Perrault=, Claude, architect of the Louvre; sticks in the mud, 285.

"=Picaro="; a special 16th century type of vagabond, 21-3.

=—— Bibl.=; Chandler.

=Pilgrimage= (_see_ Chartres, Compostella, Loreto, Montserrat, Saumur, Theology); consecration for, 7; an epidemic in France, 20; to what extent in vogue, 18-20, 179, 208, 320; relics to be seen, 145-8, and chap. v. part 2; the degree and kind of attention relics received, 145-8, 239; to St. Patrick's Purgatory, 179.

=—— to Jerusalem=; (_see_ Jews, Passports, Sea-Travel—pilgrim-galley) the most popular guide-book for, 42; routes, 207, 209-14; and their characteristics, 210-30; information bureau at Venice, 209; motives for, 208; decline of, and why, 208-9; licences for, 209; finance of, 209, 216, 229, 321-6, 365; at Jerusalem, 230-4; Easter excursions to Emmaus, Jordan, and Hebron, 234-6; Knighthood of the Holy Sepulchre, 239; lodging, 247-50, 323; enslavement of pilgrims, 358-60.

=Pindar=, Sir Paul; 13, 14.

=Pirates=; the chief centres, 72; frequency of, 72-74; tales of, 74, 106, 185-6.

=Plague=; 201, 299, 360-1.

=Plotius=; a typical guide-book writer, 35.

=Poland=; 130-2, 263, 303, 337, 364, 373; inns, 243-4, 278; bridge at Yarunov, 289; expenditure in, 339-41.

=—— Bibl.=; MS. Rawlinson, C. 799; Adelung, Cust, Łosinski, Moryson, Mundy, Possevino, Zetzner; IV. 1. note 14; VI. note 2.

=Possevino=, Father (the Jesuit); 51, 310, 402.

=Prague=; 140.

=Psalms=; in use by travellers, 44, 64.

"=Putting-Out=" money (travellers' insurance); 325-7, 357-8; for mortality among travellers, _see under_ Illness, and Robbers.

=Quevedo Villegas=, F. G. de; quoted, 21, 275, 308.

=Rabelais=; quoted, 44, 57, 77, 139, 355, 382.

=Raleigh=, (Sir Walter)'s son abroad with Ben Jonson; 56.

=Reresby=, Sir John; quoted, 149, 350.

=Retz=, Cardinal de; quoted, 76, 94.

=Riding= (_see_ Communications); 44, 333; Bulak asses, 220; camels, 228-9; post-horses, 292, 330-1.

=Rivadeneyra's= "Cisma de Inglaterra" quoted, 41; life of Loyola quoted, 286, 320.

=River-, and Lake-Travel=; 79-87; frequency of, 156; relatively cheap, 328-9.

=Riviera=, the; unvisited, and why, 101, 260, 312.

=Road-travel= (_see_ Communications, Luggage and Riding); inconveniences of, 79, 84, 328-9; on the way to Jerusalem, 210-30; transition-stage of, 284-5; anecdotes (state of the roads, etc.), 285-7, 308-12.

=Roanne=; starting-point for navigation on the Loire, 79.

=Robbers and Murderers= (_see_ Executions); in south-eastern Europe, 212, 214, 289; Arabs, 218, 220, 223, 225, 228-9, 234, 323, 359; at inns, 272; highwaymen, 287, 292, 329-30, 348-54, 363; a by-product of war, 311, 348-54.

=Rohan=, Duc de (1600); his narrative typical, 33, 119; quoted, 117.

=Rome=; as seen by visitors, 108-12, 116, 252, 280, 292, 343, 364, 376; numbers received into English College there, 28; Protestants at, 54, 110-1; hôtel Vasa d'Oro at, 240, 338.

=Roos=, Lord; 54.

=Rösmital=, Leo von; 399.

=Russia=; _see_ Muscovy.

=St. Amant=, the French poet; quoted, 303, 304, 307.

=St. Malo=; guarded at night by savage dogs, 311-2.

=Sanderson=, John; smuggles mummies, 223.

=Sandys=, George; quoted, 28, 91, 92, 113, 187, 232, 323-5.

=Sarpi=, Paolo; quoted, 60.

=Sastrow=, B.; his autobiography, 20, 403; quoted, 133, 321, 350-1, 385.

=Saumur=; 20, 115.

=Schaumburg=, Wilwolt von; 399.

=Schweinichen=, Hans von; 399.

=Scotland=; 5, 124, 127.

=—— Bibl.=; Brereton, Brown, Cuellar, Moryson, Zetzner.

=Scots abroad= (_see_ Lauder and Lithgow); 131 (and note), 274.

=Sea-sickness=; 12, 59, 63, 77-9.

=Sea-travel= (_see_ Channel-crossings, Levant, Pirates, Sea-sickness); size of vessels and accommodation, 64, 65; Eastward-ho! from Venice, 68; incidental difficulties, 69, 70, 267, 312; water preferable to land, 70, 71; daily service, Genoa-Rome (1588), 71; coasting the usual practice, 71-2; storms, 11, 74-6; sorcerers and good weather, 75; the need of the "charte-partie," 76; a "funeral" at sea, 93; Turkish sailors, 197, 201.

=—— pilgrim-galley= (Venice-Jaffa); arrangements in theory and practice, 66-8, 208, 210; concerning the date of its cessation, 207-8.

=Seville=; 172, 174, 281.

=Shakespeare's= knowledge about Italy, 86, 112, 114; a conjecture about "Othello," 188; Rosalind on the cost of travel, 313; quotations, 154, 222, 307, 363.

=Sherley=, Sir Anthony; 291, 357.

=——=, Sir Robert; his many journeys, 13.

=Sicily=; 113, 147.

=Sidney=, Sir Philip; abroad, when, where, and why, 27; quoted, 35, 58, 100, 314, 333, 351.

"=Sights="; _see_ Art, Bathing, Executions, Fairs, Flagellants, Galley-slaves, Games, Levant, Locks, Manners and Customs, Mechanical devices, Mines, Pilgrimage-relics, Unicorn horns, Volcanoes, Women, Zoos, and names of towns.

=Sign-posts=; 293-4.

=Sigonius=, the Italian scholar; could not speak Latin, 48.

=Sinigaglia=; inn at, finest in Italy, 241.

=Smith=, Captain John; 294, 385.

=Smith=, L. P.; his life of Sir Henry Wotton, 104, 405.

=Sobieski=, Jakób; in France and England, 128-30, 384, 387, 404.

=Solre=, Comte de (Sieur de Molenbais), 394.

=Spain=; 162-74, 261-3, 343, 364; the usual itinerary through, 163; communications in, 85, 289, 292, 300, 354; inns, 242, 246-7, 261-3, 278-80; expenditure in, 337, 340; coinage, 371.

=—— people of=; the women, 170; the men, 171; few know Latin, 48; a Spanish dentist, 362.

=—— Bibl.=; MSS. Rawlinson D. 1286, Harl. 3822, Egerton 311; Tournay 159; also Aarssen, Busino, Chiericati, Fanshawe, Farinelli, Fouché-Delbosc, Guzman, Sobieski, Wynn, Zetzner; I. note 3, VII. note 13, VIII.. note 42

=Spenser=, Edmund; as foreign correspondent, 17.

=Spies=; qualify for their work by travel, 16; numerous but not communicative, 17.

=Stampes=, ——(?); 394.

=Strassburg=; 119, 133, 152, 286, 288.

=Students=; (_see_ Universities, and, Average Tourist), 121, 134, 320.

=Sweden=; 155, 244, 406.

=Switzerland=; _see_ Mountaineering.

=—— Bibl.= MSS. Rawlinson D. 120, B. M. Add. 34177; VII. notes 5 and 12.

=Symonds=, Richard; 393.

=Tasso=, Torquato; quoted, 141, 303, 382.

=Taylor=, John (the "water-poet"); 80, 137, 370, 404.

=Theology= in relation to Travel (_see_ Pilgrimage); as a cause of travel, 24; a "religious test" for tutors, 53-4; examples of intolerance, 28, 53, 75, 111-3, 133, 171, 362; attractions of Mohammedanism, 55-6; increases the interest of volcanoes, 97; in Spain, 167.

=Thou=, J. A. de; accompanies de Foix to Italy, 14; interview with Sigonius, 48; nearly drowned on Lake Wallenstadt(?), 81; quoted, 97, 180, 260, 274, 300, 350.

=Tolls and Duties=; 320, 328, 336-8.

=Touring=, [1542-1642]; spread of the idea, 25-30, 158; bibliography of, 29, 389-91; estimates of amount of (_see_ Constantinople, English abroad, Ireland, Pilgrimage, Scots abroad), 29, 236; towns the stopping-places, 101; hardships of, and their effect (_see_ Illness), 102, 163, 173, 179, 223, 242-4, 260, 286, 310-2, 375-6; official supervision of (_see_ Passports), 131, 158, 271-2, 343, 346, 351; compensations, 377-9.

=—— for and against= (_see_ Ideas, modified by travel); opinions of Bacon, 3; of Montaigne, 3, 57; of Pasquier, 375; new ideas and knowledge brought home, 14, 140, 378-9; otherwise unobtainable, 17, 40, 140; opposition to, 36, 158-9, 373-4; how far reasonable, 375; some weak points, 375-7; tourist-books as a source of knowledge for us, 52, 72, 82, 86, 118-9, 124, 154-6, 162, 175, 189, 193, 202, 213-4, 232, 350.

=—— special causes of= (_see_ Average Tourist, Embassies, Exile, Pilgrimage, and Tourist, types of); commerce, and lack of means of communication at a distance, 18; exploration, 18; difficulty of obtaining information from abroad, 17, 25, 40-3; current fiction, 22; theological, 24; Philip Sidney's reason, 27; historical, 28, 284; the chief cause, 34.

=Tourist=, types of, in 1600 (_see_ under names mentioned in pages here following, and also, Average Tourist, Pilgrimage, and Tutor); Subjective, 3-4; Objective, 4-5; Perfect, 6; Philosopher, 7; Unintentional, 8; Intolerable, 9; Feminine, 11-3, 59; Ambassadorial, 14, 130-1; mediæval types, and how far they survived, 17-23; Spy and News-Gatherer, 17; Commercial, 20, 131, 321; Vagabond, 21-3, 321; Exile, 23; Missionary, 24, 286, 320, 402-3; Various, 24, 92; Journalistic, 80.

=Transylvania=; cheapness of food there, 340.

=Travellers and Travelling=; _see_ Tourist and Touring.

=Turberville=, George; on Muscovy, 159.

=Turks=; relation to European States, 8, 182-9, 197, 204; Christians' fear of, 22, 85, 113, 117-8, 188; conversions by, 55-6, 356; learn navigation from renegades, 73; Danube mainly a Turkish river, 81; increase of their sea-power during this period, 106, 184-6; as seen by tourists, 90, 189-91, 200-2, 269, 343, 346, 360; their teetotalism, 93, 190, 192; likeness to the Japanese as contrasted with Christians, 191, 321; signs of decay, 192; other characteristics, 90, 189-91, 200-2, 269, 343, 346, 360; "Khans," 247-50; coinage used by, 369, 372.

=—— their ruler=, the Grand Signor; Dallam and, 9; as an employer, 55; supposed to possess a complete Livy, 194; diversions of, 196; how to see his palace, 196-7; audiences with, 197.

=—— Bibl.=; _see_ Constantinople and Jerusalem.

=Tutors=; 37, 180, 316; Hentzner as, 43-4; qualifications, 53; Ben Jonson as, 56.

=Ulm=; 120.

=Unicorn horns=; fact, fiction, and prices, 149, 150.

=United Provinces=; 116-7, 348; communications in, 83, 291, 294, 329.

=—— people of=; 132, 143.

=—— Bibl.=; Beatis, Bisoni, Brereton, Buchell, Cust, Hagemans, Hoby, Moryson.

=Universities= (_see_ Bologna, Padua, Saumur, Students, Wittenberg); Alcalá and Salamanca, 48; Italian ones idealized, 103; Orleans, 115.

=Vagabond=; _see_ "Picaro."

=Valois=, Marguerite de; 152; her litter, 290.

=Vargas=, Juan de; 405.

=Venice=; 4, 136, 149, 153, 291, 329, 341, 360-2; more English there than in the rest of Italy, 28; as a model State, 100-1; attractions of, 103-6; small boys of, 133; inns of, 252, 274, 276-7.

=Verona=; 113.

"=Vetturino=-system"; what it was, 331; its rise and services, 332-4.

=Vienna=; 121, 147, 188, 288, 395.

=Villamont=, Sieur de; quoted, 65, 87, 104, 143, 302, 329, 382.

=Villers=, MM. de; 365, 383, 395.

=Villingen=, Pastor Peter, pilgrim to Jerusalem, 1565; enslaved, 359.

=Vinci=, Leonardo da; a conversation with, 396.

=Volcanoes=; 91.

=Waller=, Edmund; 80.

=War=; (_see_ Robbers); decreases use of Latin, 47; even distribution of war and peace in this period, 124, 350; as affecting tourist finance, 348, 364.

=Weston=, Sir Richard; learns much from the Dutch, 116.

=Whetenal=, Lady Catherine; 394.

=Willes=, Dr.; cost of journey, England, Muscovy, 335.

=Wilson=, Arthur; 63.

=Winghe=, J. de (of Tournai); 395.

=Wittenberg=; 121.

=Women= and Travel; (_see_ Cecilia, Clara Eugenia, Fanshawe, Johanna, Whetenal); at Rome in 1600, 18; advice concerning, 59; in a seven-day Channel-passage, 63; position of, in Italy and United Provinces, contrasted, 142-4; Jerusalem "Placets" not granted to, 210; embarrassments of, when abroad, 269-71; of Chios, 88-9; Russian, 161; Spanish, 170; Irish, 177-8; Turkish, 200.

=Wotton=, Sir Henry; quoted, 26, 71, 154, 299, 329, 341, 347, 349, 356, 405.

=Wunderer=, Johann David; at Pskov, 162.

=Wynn=, Sir Richard; 385, 405.

=Zeiler=, Martin; guide-book to Spain quoted, 48, 351, 364.

=Zetzner=, Johann Eberhard; 406.

=Zinzerling=, J.; his itinerary as a guide-book, 46; quoted, 122, 134, 138, 150, 252, 291.

"=Zoos=" of Europe; 139, 140, 174, 196.

The Riverside Press

CAMBRIDGE. MASSACHUSETTS

U. S. A

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes

Minor punctuation and printer errors repaired.

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal signs=.