Category: Essays, Letters & Speeches

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.

Departure. Madame de Sevigne. Dresden. Homoeopathic disposition. The art of travelling comfortably. Reminiscences of youth. Weimar. Grand Duke's library. The Court. The park. Dinner at Court. Duke Bernhard. Anecdote. Visit to Göthe. A day in the Belvedere. Late Queen of Wurtem...

Chapters

98. LETTER XLVIII.

It certainly is a fine thing to have such a walk as the Louvre daily at one's command, and to take refuge from snow and rain in the hall of gods, and among the creations of geni...

75. LETTER XXV.

I left London at two o'clock in the morning, very ill and out of spirits; in harmony with the weather, which was perfectly 'à l'Anglaise.' It blew a hurricane, and rained water-...

59. LETTER X.

Though I felt perfectly 'blasé' of parks yesterday, and thought I could never take any interest in them again, I am quite of another mind to-day, and must in some respects give...

65. LETTER XVI.

This morning I paid a visit to Mrs. Hope, and saw her husband's collection of works of art more in detail. A very beautiful Venus by Canova was peculiarly interesting to me, hav...

77. LETTER XXVII.

One little defect in this otherwise so beautiful landscape is caused by the ebb and flow. During a considerable part of the day a large portion of the channel of the Menai (as t...

64. LETTER XV.

At length the long-desired letter is arrived, and another in its company. Why was it so long on the road?--'Quien sabbe?' as the South Americans say. Probably the official reade...

55. LETTER VI.

It is sometimes a perfect want with me to spend a day entirely alone in my own room. I pass it in a sort of dreamy brooding. I go over the past and the future,--all that I have...

71. LETTER XXI.

After writing some verses in the W---- album, in which Arabian steeds, Timour's magnificence, Cecil, Elizabeth, and the fair beauties of Teheran, met in agreeable confusion, I t...

84. LETTER XXXIV.

BELOVED FRIEND.--Was it the devil or not then? you ask. 'Ma foi, je n'en sais rien.' At any rate he had assumed a very 'recommendable,' though rather dangerous form,--that of a...

83. LETTER XXXIII.

Limerick is the third city in Ireland, and of the kind of cities I like, old and venerable, adorned with Gothic churches and moss-covered ruins; with dark narrow streets, and cu...

78. LETTER XXVIII.

I am in most agreeable quarters. The manner of living is 'comfortable' the society cordial, 'la chere excellente,' and the freedom, as it is every where in the country, perfect....

70. LETTER XX.

A FRENCHMAN says; "L'illusion fut inventée pour le bonheur des mortels; elle leur fait presqu'autant de bien que l'espérance." If this is true, happy man is my dole, for I am ne...

66. book I have met with. You will think that it must have flowed not only

"It is incalculable," says the author, "what an influence the objects which surround our childhood exercise over the whole formation of our character in after life. In the dark...

73. LETTER XXIII.

Among the most aristocratical parties are to be numbered the concerts of one of the most liberal members of the Opposition,--an anomaly often to be found here; where a certain v...

81. LETTER XXXI.

You make me laugh by your gratitude for my diligence in writing. Are you not aware that I can have no greater enjoyment? I have hardly written a word before I feel myself at hom...

68. LETTER XVIII.

I am, as you know, not strong in remembering anniversaries and the like; but I know full well that to-morrow is the day on which I left my poor Julia alone in B----. A year has...

58. LETTER IX.

Now, indeed, for the first time, I am filled with real and unbounded enthusiasm. What I have hitherto described was a smiling country, combined with everything that art and mone...

69. LETTER XIX.

I slept rather late after my yesterday's fatigues, and did not leave Scarborough till two o'clock. The road to Whitby is very hilly, and the aspect of the country singular. As f...

53. LETTER IV.

It seems to me that I shall never get accustomed to this climate, for ever since my landing I have felt perpetually unwell. However, so long as I am not confined to my chamber,...

76. LETTER XXVI.

I am now returned, dog-tired, from ascending Snowdon, the highest mountain in England, Scotland, and Wales, which indeed is not saying much. Excuse me till morning, when I will...

97. LETTER XLVII.

I could not write to you yesterday, because the diligence takes two days and a night to go from Calais to Paris, though it stops but once in twelve hours to eat, and then only f...

93. LETTER XLIII.

are now at an end, and I must conduct you to a breakfast at the Post-office. The Director, Sir Edward Lee, a very agreeable and accomplished man, who gave the entertainment, fir...

82. LETTER XXXII.

Your sermon is excellent; your reasons are unanswerable;--but I happen to believe the contrary; and belief is, as you know, a thing which not only removes mountains, but often b...

54. LETTER V.[19

I advise travellers never to take servants out of their fatherland into strange countries, especially if they imagine they shall save by it,--now-a-days always a prime object. T...

52. LETTER III.

I have had a most disastrous passage. A squall, constant sea-sickness, forty hours instead of twenty,--and, to crown the whole, striking on a sandbank in the Thames, where we ha...

96. LETTER XLVI.

Yesterday evening at seven o'clock I left Bath, again by the mail, for Salisbury. My only companion was a widow in deep mourning; notwithstanding which, she had already found a...

61. LETTER XII.

I travelled these sixty miles yesterday with great rapidity, and in the most charming state of indolence, without even the exertion of looking up;--for one must once in a while...

67. LETTER XVII.

Curiosity led me again to-day to the Tunnel. I went in the diving-bell down to the bed of the river, and spent half an hour there, looking at the process of stopping the breach...

60. LETTER XI.

R---- left London to-day for Harwich, and will be with you in a fortnight. I know how glad you will be to have a living witness of the sayings and doings of your L----; one whom...

74. LETTER XXIV.

After I had sent away my letter to you, and made an excursion into the country with some ladies, I drove to a party at the Duke of Clarence's, where there was, this time, such a...

91. LETTER XLI.

Oh what reproaches! However, three letters at once are a compensation for every thing. I read the news from home till I nearly appeased my appetite for it, and can hardly expres...

94. LETTER XLIV.

You have often called me child-like, and no praise is more grateful to me. Yes, Heaven be praised, dear Julia! children we shall both remain, so long as we live, though a hundre...

86. LETTER XXXVI.

The parting was hard; but you who wish me in a very different place, will say that I have staid quite long enough. I tore myself away from these excellent people and their roman...

95. LETTER XLV.

I hope you follow me on the map, which will make my letters more intelligible to you, though you cannot enjoy with me the beautiful views, of which I shall bring you back faithf...

72. LETTER XXII.

I must go back to mention to you an acquaintance I made at Brighton, which in one point of view is interesting. You have no doubt heard that an ancestor of the Thelluson family...

79. LETTER XXIX.

About noon I quitted Dublin entirely alone, comfortably established on my good steed. I left my carriage and people in the town, and sent a little travelling bag, containing my...

88. LETTER XXXVIII.

Why do I like so much to write to you? Certainly because it gives you pleasure to hear from me from afar: but also, because you understand me, which nobody else does. This alone...

57. LETTER VIII.

This morning we started,--unluckily in bad rainy weather. Ten miles from London we commenced operations with the inspection of two villas and a large park, near the pretty littl...

90. LETTER XL.

After leading a half savage life so long, the tameness of the city appears quite strange. I can now imagine the home-sickness of the North American Indians, even the most civili...

63. LETTER XIV.

It would be too tiresome if I sent you a daily list of the parties I go to: I shall only mention them when anything strikes me as remarkable; and perhaps hereafter, if I feel th...

49. LETTER I.

The love you showed me at our parting in B---- made me so happy and so miserable, that I cannot yet recover from it. Your sad image is ever before me; I still read deep sorrow i...

62. LETTER XIII.

'To make the best of my time,' (as the practical English say,) before I left town yesterday I visited three theatres in succession. In the first piece I saw, the principal perso...

80. LETTER XXX.

I have passed the last few days in bed with fever and pain. I am but now sufficiently recovered to answer your letter. What you send me from B---- is indeed very flattering to m...

56. LETTER VII.

It is not uninteresting to attend the auctions here; first, on account of the multitude of extremely rare and valuable things, which form the wonderful activity of life and the...

51. LETTER II.

After taking leave of Göthe and his family, and paying a last visit to a distinguished and charming artist in her 'atélier,' I quitted the German Athens, stored with pleasant re...

92. LETTER XLII.

I frequently meet a man here, B--H--, whose company is highly interesting to me. Although a clergyman, he is one of the few independent thinkers who are able to throw off the ty...

89. LETTER XXXIX.

Since yesterday I have been an inhabitant of a pretty Gothic cottage at the foot of a mountain. From one of my windows I see fertile fields: from the other, wood, lake, and rock...

87. LETTER XXXVII.

The "Rock of Cashel," with its celebrated noble ruin is one of the greatest lions of Ireland, and was mentioned to me by Walter Scott himself as the most worth visiting after th...

85. LETTER XXXV.

In my walk this morning, I found heath-plants of such luxuriance hanging from the rocks, that one stalk measured ten feet in length. The gardener, who accompanied me, drew my at...

50. ill. But, on this subject, Göthe has spoken so satisfactorily and so

beautifully in print, that I can add nothing to it. I mentioned the representation of Faust in a private theatre at Berlin, with music by Prince Radzivil, and spoke with admirat...

33. LETTER XXXIII.

Limerick. Antique character of that city. Catholics and Protestants. Deputation, and offer of the Order of the Liberator. O'Connell's cousin. Cathedral. I am taken for a son of...

16. LETTER XVI.

Mr. Hope's collection of pictures and statues. Toilette-necessaries of a Dandy. Ladies' conference. Style of invitations. Duke of Sussex. Major Kepple. Ascot races. S---- Park....

29. LETTER XXIX.

Ride on horseback into the county Wicklow. Bray. Student's equipment. English piety. Kilruddery. Glen of the Downs. Summer-house. Vale of Durwan. The giant. The Devil's Glen. Kü...

28. LETTER XXVIII.

'Vie de Château.' Cathedral at St. Asaph. Tabernacle. True faith. Denbigh Castle. Meeting of Harpers. Romantic Valley. Pretty Fanny. Her dairy and aviary. Paradise of fowls. Rid...

46. LETTER XLVI.

The widow. Love of the English for horrors. More agreeable travelling companion. Examinations, and learned examiners. Stonehenge. Sinister meeting and accident. Salisbury Cathed...

15. LETTER XV.

Correspondence. Lord Mayor's feast. Speeches. Caricatures. Dangers of a fog. English society. Middle classes. Critical position of the Aristocracy. Freedom of the press. Newspap...

31. LETTER XXXI.

The young parson. Journey with him to the West. Connaught. Singular country. Visit at Capt. B----'s. Life of a true Irishman. They are not over fastidious. Divine service in Tua...

27. LETTER XXVII.

Plague of flies. Project for a Park. Plas Newydd. Cromlechs. Druid's cottage. New kaleidescope. Journey into the interior of the mountains. Unworthy views of Providence. Protest...

23. LETTER XXIII.

Aristocracy and liberalism united in one person. Fête at the Duchess of ----'s. Wonderful tale of Mr. H----. Toads. The menagerie in Regent's Park. Marshal Beresford. Rural dinn...

34. LETTER XXXIV.

Kenmare. Irish messenger. Road to Derrinane. Bridge of the black water. Chaos. Terrific coast. Perplexities. Aid from a smuggler. Mountain pass at night. Derrinane Abbey. O'Conn...

36. LETTER XXXVI.

Idolatry of Sunday in England. Wonderful conversion of a Protestant to Catholicism. Riding in a car. The Whiteboys. Macroom. The naïve mamma and the spoiled child in the gingle....

25. LETTER XXV.

Departure from London. Cheltenham. English comfort. Mineral waters. Promenades. Sources of the Thames. Lackington Hill. The village in the wood. Ancient Roman villa. Tea-garden....

6. LETTER VI.

Barrel organs. Punch. His biography. Ruined Houses. The King in Parliament. Contrast. George the Fourth. The Opera. Figaro without Singers. English melodies. Charles Kemble. Cos...

26. LETTER XXVI.

Bangor. Welsh driving. Lake of Llanberris. Fish-hunting dogs. Storm. Shelter in the old castle. Hut, and its inhabitants. Ascent of Snowdon. Mountain poney and sheep. Veiled sum...

45. LETTER XLV.

Chepstow. Marten the Regicide. The girl's explanation. Taxes imposed by English lords and gentlemen on travellers. The possessor of Piercefield. Crossing the Bristol Channel. Me...

3. LETTER III.

The passage. The planter. The English custom-house. The lost purse. Macadamized roads. Improvements of London. Specimens of bad taste. National taste. The Regent's Park. Waterlo...

21. LETTER XXI.

Billy, the Rat-destroyer. English amusements. The newest Roscius. Fancy. Freewill. Original sin. Austrian philosophy. Colours of the days. Friday. Don Miguel. American Anecdote....

10. LETTER X.

Hawkestone Park. Uncommonly beautiful scenery. The red castle and New Zealander's hut. More manufactories. Dangerous employment. The room in which Shakspeare was born. His grave...

44. LETTER XLIV.

Favour of Neptune. The dream. Voyage across the channel. The young heir. Night in the mail. Shrewsbury. The tread-mill. Yellow criminals. Church. Curious old houses. Street curi...

32. LETTER XXXII.

'Hors d'oeuvre.' German Character. Adventure with a gipsy. How we acquire a soul. State of the Irish peasantry. Stupid rage of an Orangeman. Beautiful park and disposition of wa...

18. LETTER XVIII.

What a park should be. Horses. Lady ----. Hatfield and Burleigh. Doncaster Races. Pomp in the country. Duke of Devonshire's equipage. Madame de Maintenon. Useless talents. York...

17. LETTER XVII.

Descent in a diving-bell. Obliging fire. College of Surgeons. The false mermaid. The sagacious ourang-outang. Extraordinary recovery. The living skeleton. Fortune. The desperate...

20. LETTER XX.

Excursion to Brighton. Arundel Castle. Petworth House. Portraits. Hotspur's sword. Old 'Whalebone.' The fortunate duchess. 'Prognostica.' Continuation of Don Juan. The year 2200...

19. LETTER XIX.

Whitby. What is remarkable in a Duke. The ruin. The Museum. Alum mines. Lord Mulgrave's castle and park. Singular accident. Fountain's Abbey. Studley Park. The Catacombs at Ripo...

40. LETTER XL.

Killough Hill. The fairy garden. Romantic sentry-box. Return to Dublin. Madame de Sevigne. Lord Byron's tempest. Dinner with the Lord Lieutenant. The Marquis of Anglesea. Cathol...

47. LETTER XLVII.

French diligence. The conducteur. An old soldier of Napoleon's garde. German Plinzen. La 'mechanique.' Value of freedom. Paris. Revision of the old acquaintance. Bad new one. Th...

30. LETTER XXX.

Donnybrook fair. The lovers. Powerscourt. The Dargle and The Lover's Leap. The waterfall. Galopade, with the guide behind me. Inn at Bray. Sketch of English manners. Grand Duke...

5. LETTER V.

Advice to travellers. Clubs. Virtue and Umbrellas. Arrangement of Maps. English wine. How an Englishman sits. Comfortable customs. Rules of behaviour. Treatment of Servants. The...

38. LETTER XXXVIII.

The swan. Holy Cross and its monuments. Irish Catholic clergy. Dinner with eighteen clergymen. Conversation at it. Comparison of the Wendish and the Irish. List of the Catholic...

14. LETTER XIV.

Technicalities of English Society. 'Bonne chere.' Captain Parry and his ship. The Guards' mess. Play. 'Le Moyen age.' Monkeys and Poneys. 'Le Grand Seigneur dentiste.' Lady Hest...

22. LETTER XXII.

The Thelluson will. The Dandy in the back settlements of America. English justice. A Chancery suit. Dramatic juggler. Fall of the Brunswick theatre. Party at Mr. Peel's. 'Chapea...

11. LETTER XI.

Conversational talents of the French. Death of the Duke of York. Adventure at his house. English mourning. Excerpts from my journal. Lady Morgan's Salvator Rosa. 'What is consci...

37. LETTER XXXVII.

The rock of Cashel. One of the most curious ruins in Ireland. The Devil's Bite. Old Saxon architecture. Bell of the Inquisition. The statue of St. Patrick, and throne at Scone....

2. LETTER II.

Gotha. Old friends. Eisenach. The wedding. Hasty flights. The banks of the Ruhr. Wesel. Fatherlandish sandbanks. Beautiful gardens of Holland. Foreign air of the country. Cultur...

35. LETTER XXXV.

Wild honeycomb. Egyptian lotus. Visit to an eagle's nest; their romantic dwelling, and wonderful instinct. The wild huntsman of the South of Ireland. The caves of the Sugar Loaf...

1. LETTER I.

Departure. Madame de Sevigne. Dresden. Homoeopathic disposition. The art of travelling comfortably. Reminiscences of youth. Weimar. Grand Duke's library. The Court. The park. Di...

4. LETTER IV.

Climate. British Museum. Its guards. Strange _Mischmasch_. Journey to Newmarket. English scenery. Life there. The races. The betting-post. Visit in the country. English hospital...

9. LETTER IX.

Warwick Castle. Feudal Grandeur. The baronial hall. Portraits. Joan of Arragon. Machiavelli. Leamington. Guy's Cliff. His cave. Gaveston's cross. Tombs of Warwick and Leicester....

12. LETTER XII.

Brighton. Sunset. Oriental baths. 'Gourmandise' and heroism. Count F----. Ride on the sea-shore. Almack's ball. English notions of precedence. The romantic Scot. Sermon and prie...

7. LETTER VII.

The auctioneer. The Napoleonist. French theatre. A rout. Lady Charlotte B----. Politics and conversation. English Aristocracy. The foggy sun of England. Extraordinary testamenta...

41. LETTER XLI.

Evening at Lady M----'s. Her nieces. Curious conversation. More theology. The nightingales. All the _corn_ of Europe. National scene. Domestic pictures. The authoress's boudoir....

24. LETTER XXIV.

A rout 'par excellence.' English squeeze. Visit to Cobham. Lord D----'s birthday. Mr. Child's speech. Rochester Castle. The most natural camel. The downfall. The water party. Re...

13. LETTER XIII.

Beggar's eloquence. Tea-kettle pantomime and jugglers. Dream Superstition. The fancy ball. Miss F----. Mrs. F----. Remarks on society, 'Nobodies.' Pleasures of a ball. Pictures...

48. LETTER XLVIII.

Ascetic walk. Anecdotes of the Buonaparte family. Spanish courtesy. Theatre Français. Omnibus. Thoughts in a Dame Blanche. Il Diavolo. Singers. _Agrémens_ of Paris. La Morne. Po...

42. LETTER XLII.

B---- H---- on modern piety. O'Connell in a long-tailed wig. The Don Quixote and the Dandy of the Association. Acting charades at Lady M----'s. 'Love me love my dog.' Miss O'Nei...

8. LETTER VIII.

39. LETTER XXXIX.

43. LETTER XLIII.