CHAPTER XXXIII.
BACK TO INDIA—DISILLUSIONMENT OF OUR FOLLOWERS WITH REGARD TO SOME OF THE BLESSINGS OF CIVILIZATION—MILITARY HOSPITALITY—RETURN TO CALCUTTA 415
APPENDICES 423
INDEX 437
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
CAPTAIN WELLBY Frontispiece
THE KUSHOK'S COOK Title
LIEUTENANT MALCOLM Facing 1
CLUB OF NORTHERN INDIA, MURREE, IN SNOW 5
VIEW TOWARDS FIFTH BRIDGE, SRINAGAR 8
A MERCHANT'S HOUSE IN SRINAGAR 9
MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE, SRINAGAR 11
HINDU TEMPLE, SRINAGAR 12
ON THE RIVER, SRINAGAR 14
DUFFADAR SHAHZAD MIR, 11TH BENGAL LANCERS 15
SHUKR ALI 18
THE GLACIERS, SONAMERG 21
FIRST SIGNS OF BUDDHISM BEYOND LEH, AT MULBECK 25
BRIDGE OVER THE SURV RIVER AT KARGIL, ON THE ROAD TO LEH. BRIDGE ON CANTILEVER PATTERN 29
SHAHZAD MIR AND OUR TEN MEN 33
CHINESE PASSPORT, ONE AND A HALF FEET SQUARE 37
MY RED CHINESE VISITING CARD, FIVE INCHES BROAD AND TEN INCHES LONG 38
ON THE BORDERS OF TIBET; OUR CAMP AT NIAGZU 57
CROSSING THE NAPU LA (18,500 FEET HIGH) 64
OUR THREE RUNDORE GUIDES 67
KERAMBUTABUK 71
LAKE "LIGHTEN" (WE LIGHTENED OUR LOADS HERE) 91
17TH JUNE. THREE OF OUR TENTS ARE ABANDONED AT THIS SPOT 95
WE CAMP IN A GRASSY NULLAH 98
A DAY'S HALT BY A FRESH-WATER LAKE 100
OUR MULES BEING WATERED 109
WE CAMP IN A WILDERNESS AND STEER FOR "HELMET HILL" 118
MALCOLM AT BREAKFAST WITH ESAU 121
WE CAMP BY TWO FRESH-WATER POOLS 124
TWO ANTELOPES ARE SHOT CLOSE TO CAMP 135
SHAHZAD MIR AT WORK 145
AUTOGRAPH OF THE BUDDHA, page 275 151
THE LAST CAMP OF OUR TWELVE MULES 159
RUBY 165
A DEAD ANTELOPE 180
AN ENORMOUS YAK 183
THE KUSHOK'S TAME YAK 200
SOME MEMBERS OF THE KUSHOK'S CAMP 213
TSOKPO MONGOLS LIVING IN THE BUSH 231
MALCOLM ENGAGES ATTENTION OF MONGOLS WITH "CADBURY": THEY THINK IT IS SNUFF 235
MONGOL LADIES ON THE BAYAN GOL 238
MONGOL CAMP: ONE OF OUR HALTS 249
THREE REMAINING MULES AT KOKO NOR 253
BUDDHIST PRAYER-WHEEL, WITH SCARF OF BLESSING 268
DR. RIJNHART. DAUGHTER OF THE PRINCE OF KOKO NOR 269
BRIDGE IN CHINA, FIVE MILES FROM TANKAR. MISSIONARY AND MULE ON BRIDGE 271
BRIDGE OF SHANG-HO-RI (SOUNDING RIVER) ON THE ROAD TO TANKAR 273
AUDIENCE ROOM OF THE KAMBO (ABBOT) OF KUMBUM 275
MINA FU-YEH (BUDDHA) 277
CHORTENS OF KUMBUM 286
KUMBUM 287
TWO SMALL SHRINES, WITH NUMBERS OF PRAYER-WHEELS 291
PRAYER-WHEELS, BOARDS, ROSARY FROM LUSAR 295
RUINS OF THE E. SUBURB OF SINING 318
A SEDAN CHAIR 321
THE ONLY WAY TO DRIVE IN NORTH CHINA 333
ON THE ROAD FROM LANCHEO, CHINA 339
STREET IN THE TONG KUAN (E. SUBURB), CHONG WEI, YELLOW RIVER 343
OUR INN AT CHONG WEI 349
OUR WOOL BOAT ON THE YELLOW RIVER 355
HALTING FOR THE NIGHT ON THE YELLOW RIVER 357
A FERRY ACROSS THE HUANG HO 359
ALL THE "CASH" ISSUED FROM THE FIRST OF THE EMPERORS OF THE TS'ING OR MANCHU DYNASTY 361
ON THE ROAD IN CHINA 369
ON THE ROAD FROM PAO T'EO TO PEKIN 373
BUDDHIST TEMPLE, OUTSIDE KUEI HUA CHENG, CHINA 377
MONGOL ENCAMPMENT 382
TEMPLE OUTSIDE SI-YANG HO 384
BRIDAL CHAIR 387
A GORGE WITH GREAT WALL IN DISTANCE 390
THE GREAT WALL AT CHA-TAO 395
BUDDHIST ARCHWAY BY NAN KOU 399
CLOSE TO THE CELESTIAL CAPITAL 403
A PORTION OF THE WALLS OF THE CAPITAL 407
STREET WHEREIN IS THE ENTRANCE TO THE BRITISH LEGATION 409
PEKIN 413
LASSOO AND ESAU 420
THROUGH UNKNOWN TIBET.