Through the Heart of Patagonia

Winter comes on -- Departure from Lake Argentino -- Changed aspect of country -- Snow-clouds -- Indian encampment -- Race with the snow -- River Coyly -- River Gallegos -- Ford...

Indian method of curing measles -- Driving out the devil -- Magellan -- _Patagon_ -- Long boots -- Reports of travellers -- One of the finest races in the world -- Nomadic -- Hu...

Leaving England -- Start -- _Primero de Mayo_ -- Port Belgrano -- Welsh colonists -- Story of Mafeking -- First sight of Patagonia -- Golfo Nuevo -- Port Madryn -- Landing -- Tr...

Arbitrary distribution of animals in Patagonia -- Trouble with Gauchos -- Indian guide -- Germans turned back -- _Cañadon_ of River Senguerr -- Bad weather -- Old Zaino again ca...

Leave Bahia Camerones -- Horses wild -- Decide on taking one waggon -- Bell-mare -- Names of horses -- Breaking-in of horses -- German _peones_ -- Horses stray -- Gaucho trick -...

Rumour of important undiscovered river -- Wish to settle question -- Dr. Moreno's description of Lake Argentino -- Start for Hellgate -- Description of Hellgate -- Squall -- Sun...

Dividing expedition -- Darwin's trip up the Santa Cruz -- Provisions -- Shoeing horses -- Pampa grass and marsh grass -- Start for Lake Argentino -- Burbury and Bernardo -- Visi...

Boat necessary for farther exploration -- Steam-launch on shores of Lake Viedma our only hope -- Start to find her -- Difficulty of crossing Santa Cruz River -- River Leona -- O...

First march with pack-horses -- Difficulties -- Friendship among horses -- The melancholy Zaino -- Revolt of an old philosopher -- Shifting cargoes -- Reach River Chico -- Guana...

Running an ostrich with dogs -- Crossing Santa Cruz River -- Horses troublesome -- Lose my way -- Launch refitted -- Diary of rough days -- Crossing the bar -- Nasty predicament...

Chain of lakes -- Size of lake -- Sterility and fertility -- Trips to Cordillera -- Bones of dead game -- Shores of lake -- Western shore -- Tracks in marshes -- Northern shore...

Little known of natural history of Patagonia -- Distribution of principal mammals -- Huemul -- Range -- Habits -- Horns -- Not timid in remote districts -- Curiosity -- Common p...

Como No -- Wind and driven sand -- Laguna La Cancha -- Como No's dogs -- Cold winds -- Lake Buenos Aires and Sierra Nevada -- Cross River Fenix -- Stony ground -- Skeletons of g...

Descent into Gorge of the River de los Antiguos -- Rest-and-be-Thankful Camp -- First huemul -- Greed of condors -- Aspect of Gorge -- Tameness of guanaco -- Join Van Plaaten's...

Opportunities for observation rare -- Migration of guanaco limited -- Guanaco and man -- Upright and crawling attitudes -- Will allow approach with horses -- Tame near farms --...

Denseness of forest -- Wild cattle originally escaped from early settlers -- Grown somewhat shaggy -- Indians will not hunt them in forest -- Patagonia not a big-game country --...

Christmas Day at Horsham Camp -- Horse races -- Menu of dinner -- Leave Horsham Camp -- Basalt plateaus -- Large herds of guanacos -- Sterile region -- Birth of filly -- Father...

Hunting season -- Surefooted horses -- Description of big hunt -- Ring round game -- Splendid riding of Tehuelches -- Horses dislike jumping -- Game killed and spared by Tehuelc...

Physical features of Patagonia -- The pampas -- Climate -- Discovery of Patagonia by Magellan -- Description of the natives -- Sir Francis Drake -- Other travellers -- Dr. Moren...

Second trip to De los Antiguos River -- Pass Rosy Camp -- Fenix flood gone down -- Wounded guanaco takes to water -- Mauser and shot-gun retrieved -- Losing and seeking in Patag...

Fears of winter coming on -- Stormy days -- Quiet nights -- Picnics in Patagonia -- Start by night -- Hellgate by starlight -- Camp on beach -- Advance up North Fjord -- Approac...