CHAPTER IX

Spearfish

From Nisland we retrace our route through Belle Fourche to Spearfish. There we find another splendid and modern camp. We enjoy staying at these camps of which their cities are justly proud. The cost is the same fifty cents per night as that of the less developed camps. But the modern toilet facilities, running water, wood, stoves, lights, community log cabins, dance floors, swimming pool, fishing and patrol system create in the traveler’s heart a warm feeling toward those cities or towns. In addition to this, the freedom with which people from all over the United States meet and talk over experiences is a source of lasting pleasure to the conversational type. The large cars of eastern manufacturers and the Fords of vagabonds from any place in South Dakota or the United States sleep side by side. Toward evening knots of people gather here and there about the camp or in the community building and the topic is likely to be anything from sheep raising in Perkins county or mica mining at Keystone to the workings of the New York Stock Exchange. Roads are discussed, scenery and experiences are swapped and friendships are made. Everyone is congenial, all are neighbors and class spirit does not exist. It would surprise one how he can broaden his knowledge through these contacts.

No matter whether one’s interest is fishing, swimming, camping or gossiping, he or she will naturally fit into a group in camp.

The United States trout hatchery is located beside the Spearfish camp, just across the bridge to the south. Here the United States government maintains tanks in which they raise several varieties of trout. There is a different size in each tank ranging from the frisky little baby trout to the sedate monsters that give a person a certain longing for just one chance at their like. These speckled and rainbow beauties are a sight to behold. If one can get around there at feeding time he will behold a still greater treat.

Across the road from the hatchery is a pretty decent little swimming pool, formed by a dam in Spearfish Creek. A swim in one of these clear mountain streams is a rare treat. The visitor in the “Hills” should plan to indulge as often as possible.

The next morning, July 6th, we take a trip up Spearfish Canyon. The road leads past the fish hatchery, plunging into the mountains and woods over ground owned or leased by the Homestake Mine Company. The road is fairly well worn but poorly marked. Nevertheless, this trip above all others is not one to be abandoned. Word just arrives that the road will be improved clear to Lead next summer. The road winds over gentle slopes and makes sharp turns. One must drive under twenty miles per hour and sound his horn often. But a person does not realize the marvelous beauty that lies hidden in this valley until he actually penetrates, not a mile or two, but clear up as far as cars will go. One must get out and press through the timber until he comes to a place from which he can view a great expanse of the valley and wall before he can fully appreciate Spearfish Canyon.

Wildcat Cave is located a few miles up the valley. The car must be parked beside the road and the ascent up the steep canyon wall continued on foot. The cave lies a quarter of a mile or so up. The climb to it is steep and part of the way is over rocks washed by springs.

The path leads through dense growths of timber and shrubs. At last we come to a huge overhanging cliff, below which is the Wildcat Cave. Over the top of the cliff clear cold spring water half drips, half runs continually. At various places in its walls springs ooze out, too. The one little waterfall over the center comes down through about fifty feet of space. If a person is adventuresome and ambitious he might climb the crags clear to the top of the mountain on the right.

Seven and a half miles up the canyon from Spearfish we come to Bridal Veil Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall, with not much volume but a great height. Probably it falls 200 feet and is twenty feet wide on the average. The spectacle of this is really awe inspiring. The flimsy lace like folds tumbling over the succeeding layers of rock make unquestionably the most beautiful waterfall in the Black Hills. We stop at its foot to eat our lunch while admiring its beauty.

From Bridal Veil Falls the road winds up the canyon to the Spearfish hydro-electric water flume. Above that is Roughlock Falls and the Homestake hydro-electric plant, and we must not forget Latchstring Inn. Foolish is the visitor who turns back before seeing all of these, if weather conditions permit.

After this the trail leads back to Spearfish and thence fifteen miles over into Wyoming. We could go on west to Devil’s Tower, but that would mean a long trip. So we just cross the State line and return. Here the fun begins for us. The rain has begun, slowly at first and has kept ever increasing. We have determined to make Pine Crest Park at Deadwood this evening, and accordingly break camp and set out. We have gone a few miles when the rain comes down in torrents. Fortunately the roads are good, but we have to drive with the windshield cleaner working constantly. We enjoy the beautiful scenery in spite of the rain.

We take U. S. 14 for eight miles or so, and then turn south on U. S. 85 for another five miles. On the way we come to Preacher Smith’s monument. This has been erected in honor of Mr. Smith, Deadwood’s first minister.

The story is told how he came to Deadwood with the first settlers when gold was discovered. He preached to whoever would listen to him. One day he headed for the vicinity of Whitewood to deliver a sermon. He was advised not to start out because the Indians were hostile. He insisted that his Bible was all the weapon he needed. Today a monument stands near where the Indians killed him. Several authors have told the story of Preacher Smith. Anyone interested in the story should by all means read it from some authentic source.