CHAPTER XII

Deadwood

In Deadwood, the next morning we take our way to the Franklin Hotel, then south, over the railroad tracks to Mt. Moriah Cemetery. We are now, indeed on historic ground. Probably it would be well to reiterate some of the setting before going up to the cemetery to view the resting place of the famous early characters.

Deadwood was settled in 1876. When gold was discovered here approximately 25,000 people rushed for Deadwood. Rumor, brought to us through the years, says that within twenty-four hours after the city of Custer heard of the Deadwood gold discovery its population had decreased from between six and ten thousand to less than a hundred people. They left on horseback, on foot, by ox team, by stage, and by wagon, taking camping and mining equipment with them, and stores of food.

Deadwood was transformed from a gulch full of dead timber to a lawless city. The one aim of everybody was gold. Some got it in the thousands of industrious mining projects, most of them one man or a few men placer mines. Some got it by selling food and supplies, some got it by gambling, and some by robberies. Deadwood was in a state of wild chaos.

Preacher Smith, or Henry Weston Smith “drifted in” about this time. He had come from the East with the Custer gold rush and had migrated north to Deadwood, on foot, at the time of the discovery and boom there. He preached in the street mostly. He was a Methodist, about forty years of age, and of fine physique, quiet and unassuming.

On August 20, 1876, Smith started for Crook City to preach a sermon. He left a note that he would be back at 3:00 P. M. if God were willing. But God had planned otherwise. The Indians killed him on the way. His body was discovered soon afterward and was brought to Deadwood. His remains now rest in Mt. Moriah Cemetery above Deadwood, while his monument stands near where he was killed.

Wild Bill came to Deadwood in June, 1876. He was not, as his name might indicate, a desperado, but rather a refined enforcer of law and order. His full name was James Butler Hicock. He had married a widow whose husband had been shot while attempting to prevent some desperadoes from forcing an entrance to his wagon show. Wild Bill travelled with the show to protect it and finally married the widow. With the gold rush he was drawn to Deadwood. His wife remained in Cheyenne.

Wild Bill earned his name by his expert pistol shooting. Before coming to the Black Hills he had been employed as a government scout, as a hunter of horse thieves, and as a gunman law enforcer. He had been hired by Abilene, Kansas, at $1,000 a month to clean up the town, and later by Ft. Hayes for the same purpose. His speed on the draw saved his life many times.

The law respecting faction in Deadwood finally decided to organize some form of local government. They did so and Wild Bill was suggested for chief of police. The rougher lawless element notified him that he would be shot if he did not leave town. His friends tried to get him to leave, but he was determined to stay. A notorious outlaw stole quietly through the side door of a saloon where Bill was playing cards, drew his gun, and shot Bill through the back of the head, killing him instantly. The assassin was tried by his friends, acquitted, and permitted to leave the state. He was soon re-arrested, convicted, and hanged.

Wild Bill is Deadwood’s idol. On his gun at the time of his death there were thirty-six notches all alleged to have been in self defences and law enforcement. His remains, too, are interred in Mt. Moriah Cemetery. A Johnny Riordian chiseled statues of Preacher Smith and Wild Bill both of which now stand at the head of their respective graves.

Calamity Jane (Martha Jane Cannary) was a woman whose life was interwoven with the early history of the Black Hills. She was an army scout with General Crook, and later a desperate and notorious character as well as an idol of the region. Her life story is not that of a self-respecting woman, and yet her ideals in her attitude toward her fellow beings were very high. She was always ready to share her money and provisions with those who needed it. She fought Indians and desperadoes as unflinchingly as any man. Her aim saved many a man’s life, especially from the Indians. Once she had to hold up a store to obtain groceries for a family who were very ill and out of money. After the family were nursed back to health Jane went on her way.

Calamity Jane had a deep reverence and respect for Wild Bill. Her dying request was that she be buried beside him, and there, today, her grave is to be found. Her funeral was the largest Deadwood has ever seen.

Not only Deadwood but thousands of visitors climb this hill to visit the shrine of these three early idols.

Now we proceed up the hill to the cemetery. A good driver might pilot his car up and down later with comparative safety, but the hill is very steep, and ascent by foot might be more advisable.

The cemetery proper is located on the slope of a mountain, high up, overlooking the city of Deadwood. From the cemetery a path takes us higher and higher, to the very peak of the mountain, one mile and six feet high. The peak is of bare white rocks, and is so named, “White Rocks.” It is over 700 feet higher than the city. The view from here is remarkable. Hills, valleys, mountains, and cities are visible from the peak on clear days. Here is a worth while mountain climb, possible for everyone.

After descending from the cemetery we cross Deadwood Gulch right on main street beside the Franklin hotel. We take a steep street on the opposite (north) side, and follow a winding road up Mt. Roosevelt. The road is steep and precipitous, winding and none too wide, though cars can pass almost any place with a matter of inches to spare. The lower part of the road is good, up to the foot-path. But from there up, if one wishes to go by car the driver requires some skill, a good horn, and well adjusted brakes. With a little patience, and a few hazardous looks down the steep mountain sides we reach the summit. If the foot path is taken the trip is shorter and less hazardous. These mountain paths are excellent for exercise, believe it if you can, or try it.

The view from Mt. Roosevelt is probably as good or better than from any other elevation in the Black Hills. With field glasses on a clear day one may see four states from here. On the topmost peak of the mountain stands a monument, the first ever erected in honor of Theodore Roosevelt. It is, we are told, erected in the environment and among the scenes that Roosevelt loved. Visitors are requested to leave their autographs in a visitor’s book within the tower. One precaution, do not pick a cold cloudy day to visit Mt. Roosevelt.

After the return to Deadwood we must by all means spend some time in this metropolis of the interior of the “Hills.” The gold rush days are not much in evidence. Deadwood is a modern city and a thriving business center. The stores, curio shops, and souvenir sellers invite our curiosity, and are likely to hold us for sometime. The remains of mines, the slag heaps from smelting days, and the open mine shafts are indeed curiosities. While in Deadwood we must not forget the fine municipal bathing pool and park.

Here again we might take the Boulder Canyon road or leave it as an unseen point of interest.