Category: Travel Writing

Through Spain to the Sahara

On a golden autumn afternoon we found ourselves in the old city of Tours, bound for Spain and the enchanted lands lying north of the Great Sahara. Pleasant it was to look backward and forward; backward to the busy life in England, forward to the bright holiday of travel, repea...

Chapters

22. CHAPTER V.

The railway journey from Madrid to Toledo is easy enough, occupying about eight hours. Time is given for refreshment on the way, and you are almost certain to be alone if you tr...

23. CHAPTER VI.

It was with real regret we left Toledo, as one leaves some rare old book, only glanced at, but enticing months’ study. Notwithstanding the depressing gloom and stagnation of the...

24. CHAPTER VII.

The journey from Cordova to Malaga lasts from six in the morning till five in the afternoon. You are, of course, aroused at four and carried off to the station at five; so that...

35. CHAPTER XVII.

And the blessed rain came. We had heard it pattering and plashing between our dreams, and, when we came out into the open air, it was moist and sweet and cool. For the first tim...

20. CHAPTER III.

There is no more stir at the railway-station of Madrid than at that of Tunbridge Wells or Chelmsford; and as you rattle along the quiet streets, you ask yourself--Can this be th...

18. CHAPTER I.

On a golden autumn afternoon we found ourselves in the old city of Tours, bound for Spain and the enchanted lands lying north of the Great Sahara. Pleasant it was to look backwa...

28. did. On the day appointed, we appeared before the Alcalde, who received

Don Serafin with bows and scrapes, gave him the seat of honour, begged to know to what chance he was indebted for the pleasure of seeing him, and so on. ‘Why, it is that fellow...

21. CHAPTER IV.

VELASQUEZ, THE PAINTER OF MEN.--MURILLO, THE PAINTER OF ANGELS.--RIBERA, THE PAINTER OF INQUISITORS.--ZURBARAN, THE PAINTER OF MONKS.--GOZA, THE HOFFMAN OF SPANISH ART.--THE QUI...

34. CHAPTER XVI.

Some authorities declare Saïda to be an oasis in the Little Desert, some declare it to be an oasis in the Great Desert, others declare it to be in no desert at all. For my part,...

30. CHAPTER XII.

All the old difficulties about boats recommenced at Malaga; and, much as we disliked the place, which seemed to have grown dustier and fishier since we had left it, we were obli...

33. CHAPTER XV.

Sorry enough were we to leave beautiful Tclemcen, and the many friendly faces that had made the place so homelike to us; but at the end of a week we were obliged to turn our fac...

19. CHAPTER II.

“Dos billetes de primera clase para Burgos?” (Two first-class tickets to Burgos) with astonishment repeated the young woman acting as collector at the railway station of Biarrit...

32. CHAPTER XIV.

At Tclemcen, we found ourselves in a second and hardly less beautiful Granada--a Granada moreover peopled with those who had made it what it was, a Granada not wholly dead, but...

25. CHAPTER VIII.

“A BOAT, A BOAT, MY KINGDOM FOR A BOAT!”--THE VICTIMS OF A TUNNY FISH.--SENOR BENSAKEN SPEAKS HIS MIND, AND WE ARE REPROVED.--RUNNING WATERS.--HOWLINGS OF TARSHISH.--PEPA’S FAMILY.

31. CHAPTER XIII.

We had originally intended to take tickets for Oran, but finding that the _Spahis_, if weather permitting, stopped at a little town called Nemours, we resolved to stop there. By...

29. CHAPTER XI.

We “had heard, but not believed,” that the line of railway between Granada and Malaga, as far as Loja, was to be opened on or about the day we proposed leaving; and we determine...

26. CHAPTER IX.

There is no place in the world like the Alhambra, so graceful, so perfect, so sad. No words can describe it, no pencil can portray it; it remains apart in the heart and fancy, l...

27. CHAPTER X.

I heard two horrid stories at Granada, which I would not repeat except that I feel some of their truth. We were walking in the town one day, and observing an unusual air of stir...

4. CHAPTER IV.

8. CHAPTER VIII.

7. CHAPTER VII.

9. CHAPTER IX.

16. CHAPTER XVI.

10. CHAPTER X.

12. CHAPTER XII.

5. CHAPTER V.

2. CHAPTER II.

3. CHAPTER III.

1. CHAPTER I.

6. CHAPTER VI.

11. CHAPTER XI.

14. CHAPTER XIV.

17. CHAPTER XVII.

13. CHAPTER XIII.

15. CHAPTER XV.