Category: Travel Writing

Through India and Burmah with pen and brush

Terrors were upon them, and in abject wretchedness and hopeless struggle men, women and children spread every strip of their belongings over their bodies and even used for shelter the very mats upon which they had been lying.

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

Terrors were upon them, and in abject wretchedness and hopeless struggle men, women and children spread every strip of their belongings over their bodies and even used for shelt...

2. CHAPTER II

I left the Phayre Street station at Rangoon on a bright morning, which made me think of England and the perfect beginning of a warm summer day at home. The paddy-fields were lik...

3. CHAPTER III

A group of white pagodas glowing in the sunlight: a flat shore rising to little hills further up the river--little hills with more pagodas on top of them, and beyond in the dist...

4. CHAPTER IV

The reason they had never been greased was because the driver loved the sound. He believed that the Nats (who are supposed to throng the neighbourhood) dislike it, and that whil...

5. CHAPTER V

Christmas morning at Mandalay was bright, crisp and cold, with just that bracing "snap" in the air that makes everyone feel glad to be in warm clothes. On such a day the travell...

6. CHAPTER VI

A long line of rocks and a white lighthouse in the midst of them--this is the first sight of India as the traveller approaches Tuticorin, after the sea journey from Colombo. He...

7. CHAPTER VII

In a heavy storm of rain, thunder and lightning early one Sunday morning the British India Company's steamship _Bengala_, on which I had travelled from Rangoon, began making her...

8. CHAPTER VIII

When I changed at Siliguri on to the Darjeeling Himalaya Railway, the moon hung high overhead in the morning sky, and the mountains slowly appeared out of the warm rosy mists of...

9. CHAPTER IX

One morning in the train I woke at Buxar, where Major Hector Munro gained a great victory over the Nawab of Oudh in the eighteenth century. On each side of the railway-line I co...

10. CHAPTER X

At Lucknow it was Race Week. I had already heard from the famous "Wutzler's," the best hotel, that they had no room; and when I arrived one evening at the capital of Oudh I call...

11. CHAPTER XI

"To-day that's Oudh--to-morrow it may be Cawnpore--the boundary line is the main stream of the Ganges and that is ever shifting." Thus spoke the manager of a great woollen mill...

12. CHAPTER XII

I lay quite motionless on my back upon the little stone platform that faces the south-west window--lay quite still and listened. In the intense noonday silence I could not hear...

13. CHAPTER XIII

Meerut itself, where the Mutiny first broke out, is but forty miles from Delhi, and when the rebel troops reached the old capital, Delhi became the centre of revolt. It fell ent...

14. CHAPTER XIV

I was sitting in the Deputy-Magistrate's Court at Dehra Dun, waiting beside the D.-M., while he discussed a matter of land compensation with a stout gentleman in gold-rimmed spe...

15. CHAPTER XV

About the time when many obscure fishing-folk in the British Isles were reaping rich harvest from Spanish galleons dismantled by storm and tempest, and the chief literary glory...

16. CHAPTER XVI

A wide, sandy plain with trees and a little scrub. Here and there camels were feeding on this poor herbage or, where they could reach them, upon the leaves of trees.

17. CHAPTER XVII

Mr Agha Khan had undertaken to send me early on a certain morning a "suitable" vehicle in which to drive to the Khyber Pass. It proved to be a heavy old phaeton with a pair of b...

18. CHAPTER XVIII

"_Hatee Aiah! Hatee aiah!_"--"The elephant comes!" cried the children running, and one small scamp danced in front and shouted, "_Hatee kuta machi bucha_"--"The elephant is a do...

19. CHAPTER XIX

His Highness the Rajah of Nabha is a noble old Sikh chieftain, distinguished among the native rulers of India, although his territory, one of the Phulkian States, is but small....

20. CHAPTER XX

I left Lahore soon after eight o'clock one evening and when I woke in the train next day found myself smothered in dust and traversing the great Sind Desert, that almost rainles...

21. CHAPTER XXI

Jaipur was stricken by plague: the number of deaths had gone on increasing and the living were thrown into a state of bewilderment. The Rajput princesses had fled in panic to th...

22. CHAPTER XXII

"His Highness has sent a carriage for you." This was a two-horsed, two-wheeled vehicle in which I was speedily whirled away from the railway station of Idar Road, four hours' jo...

23. CHAPTER XXIII

A little Mohammedan boy was sitting cross-legged upon a worn-out old quilt or rezai, the hair-stuffing of which peeped out all over it through irregular holes. The covering was...

24. CHAPTER XXIV

The river flowing swiftly was a glorious vivid blue, clear as crystal and dancing with gleeful hurry. There was almost a greater contrast between the water of the Ganges here at...

25. CHAPTER XXV

Consequences do not appeal as a subject of interest to the typical British mind until they have arrived. But when, as was the case in our acquisition of India, a heedlessness of...