CHAPTER XIII

THROUGH TO THE SEA: A PROGRESS IN POST-CARTS, WITH INTERLUDES OF RIVER-FERRIES 257

_Note._--River in Norsk is Elv; in Qfensk, Joki. Lake in Qfensk is Järvi. J is pronounced as Y.

List of Illustrations

FACING PAGE Ringing a Bear Track _Frontispiece_

Midnight among the Lofötens 4

Vardö Harbour 8

Towing Home Finner Whales 22

The Gates of Russian Lapland 30

Daubsfest at Boris Gleb 42

Finn Carriers crossing Russian Frontier 58

A Lakeside Camp on Enare See 82

Bear Hunt--Smoking him out 96

The Signal Fire 110

A Prosperous Lapp Settlement 118

Herder Lapps' Encampment 152

Raft wrecked on the Repojoki 186

Johann's Acrobatic Failure 208

On the Way to Kittila 249

Arctic Lapland Types 256

_Pen and Ink Vignettes at end of Chapters_ PAGE Log Track across Swamp xi

The _Windward_ 18

Deep-sea Fishing 37

Feodor and Morris--two Skolte Lapps 51

Viking Boats on Enare See 97

Sketches at Menesjärvi 132

Smoking out Mosquitoes 146

The Sorcerer and the Portrait 166

Marie, the Sorcerer's Daughter 189

Drinking Cups 256

Reindeer Horns 284

Map showing Route _Facing page_ 284

Through Arctic Lapland