CHAPTER VII.

THROUGH CAINDU TO CARAJAN.

Earthquakes--The reception of foreigners at Ning-yuan--The fertility of the Ning-yuan plain--Goître and the salt supply--Historical hailstorm--A Tibetan caravan--Crossing the Ya-lung River--A riot at Hang-chou--Reception at Yen-yuan and increased protection--Brine wells of Pai-yen-ching--Driven back by mountain barriers--The Yün-nan frontier--A sight of the Yang-tsze--Results of the Mohammedan rebellion--The Lake of the Black Mist--On the banks of the Golden River--A deserted town--The plague--First glimpse of the snow-capped Tsang-shan--A magnificent view--On the shores of the Erh Hai--Ta-li Fu at last. 112