CHAPTER X.

TO THE WHITE WAX COUNTRY, THE SACRED MOUNT O-MEI, AND THE HIGHEST NAVIGABLE POINT ON THE YANG-TSZE.

An unfortunate start--North to Ho Chou--Chinese soy--Varnish and its collection--Young trees from the old--Light-hearted peasants--The garden of Ssŭ-ch’uan--Otter fishing--Man-tzŭ caves--A great sugar country--Glimpse of O-mei--Chief silk country in Western China--Ascent of O-mei--Sweet tea of O-mei--The Golden Summit--The Glory of Buddha--Pilgrims and their devotions--O-mei beggars--A difficult descent--Official obstruction--Sick followers--On the banks of the Ta-tu--Man-tzŭ raids--Down with fever--Guerilla warfare--Hard-up for food--An exhausting march--The welcome Yang-tsze--Its highest navigable point--Down the upper rapids--Death of my horse-boy--Back to Ch’ung-k’ing 161