Three Hundred Things a Bright Boy Can Do
CHAPTER VI
PAPERCHASING, FOOTBALL, GOLF, AND BOXING
$Paperchasing.$--This may be practised with more or less success all the year round, but it is in the winter time that it can best be enjoyed. It is then that the air is cool and invigorating, and that the fields, being unoccupied by crops, may be run over without any very great damage being done. For boys it is a grand game; it affords a welcome change from the scrimmages and knocks of football and fives; and if the distance run be not too far, nor the pace too fast, there are few who cannot take part in it with pleasure.
An important point in its favour is that the expenses connected with it are small. The paperchaser wears jersey, knickerbockers and stockings as at football, with the addition, in very cold weather, of woollen mittens to keep the wrists warm, and the substitution of light leather or rubber and canvas shoes, for heavy boots. For each of the "hares" there must be provided a bag in which to carry the "scent." These bags should be of stout linen or canvas and shaped like a life-buoy, so that they go round the runner--under the left shoulder and over the right--with a hole in the under-side, by means of which they are filled and emptied. Time was when the "scent" consisted of paper torn up very small, the preparation of which afforded almost as much fun as the chase itself; but nowadays we have grown luxurious, and fill the bags with the paper shavings which may be purchased for a very small sum from any bookbinder or printer.
Much of the success of a paperchase depends on the choosing of the hares. Of these there are generally two or three--more often the former--and it is necessary that one of them should have a good knowledge of the surrounding country. The time of their departure having been noted, they start off and lay a trail as they go. Sometimes one will lay for a while, and then the other will take a turn; occasionally one will lead and lay his trail, and the other following some little distance in the rear, will look out for gaps and fill them in. It is not necessary to lay a continuous trail, but care should be taken that it is quite easy to see from one patch of scent to the next. When the wind is high, it is always well in crossing from one field to another, to sprinkle some scent on the hedge itself.
The laying of an occasional "false" scent adds to the troubles of the hounds, and gives the hares a chance of regaining some of the advantage which they naturally lose in choosing their course. A "false" is usually managed by the hares separating, and each laying a trail in different directions; then one ceases laying, and makes his way straight across country to join his companion, and they go on again together as before. In laying a false trail, much ingenuity may be shown. One way is to make the wrong one much the more distinct of the two; but this must not always be done, or naturally it will soon cease to have any effect. In selecting a course, it is well to choose a circular one, so that in case of accidents, the distance from home is not very far; and it is a very good plan, and one which is likely to be of advantage to all, to start out against the wind and to return with it. The reason for this is that it is easier to face the wind when starting out fresh than when returning home fatigued at the end of a run.
The hounds, or pack, must be provided with a captain and a "whipper-in"--the former to set the pace and generally take command, and the latter to look after the stragglers and see that none are left behind. Both should be good runners, and if possible should have had some experience of the game. After an interval--the length of which is arranged with the hares before they start, and depends chiefly on the distance it is proposed to travel--the pack set out on their journey. The pace should be a steady jog-trot, especially at the beginning; afterwards, if all goes well, it may be increased. It is a rule that so long as the hares are not in sight, all must follow the trail; but if once they are seen, it becomes a case of "catch who can," the scent is ignored, and all go off straightway in pursuit. If the hares are not seen and there appears to be no likelihood of their being caught, it is usual for the captain on getting within a mile or so of home, to give the word for a race and for the hounds to set off then to compete among themselves for the honour of being the first to reach the goal.
Carried out on these lines, paperchasing provides plenty of fun, and is as healthy a pastime as can be found. Now and again there will be a ducking caused by a failure to clear a brook, or a stumble at a fence; but if the victims of these mishaps keep moving, and immediately they reach home, change their clothes, little harm will be done. Two warnings may be given: Do not go too far; and when feeling tired, do not strain yourself by trying to race. A six or seven miles spin is quite long enough for any one; and it is better to go all through at a jog-trot, and even to walk occasionally, than to sow the seeds of future ills by striving to outdo fleeter rivals.
$Hints on Football.$--Football is one of the games which cannot be learned from books. Its best lessons are those taught by hard experience, and as much may be learned in an afternoon's play and in watching a match between two good teams, as by a diligent study of all the books on the game that have ever been written; but at the same time there are a number of unwritten rules which, although they often take years to learn, are of service to every player; and I have therefore deemed it wise to collect them and put them down here in black and white in the hope that they may be of use to many who, with some experience of the game, and eager to improve their play, have no opportunity for seeing big matches, and no one whom they can ask for advice. These rules are fourteen in number, and should be learned by heart by every player. They apply specially to the Rugby game, but some of them are of use also to those who favour the Association pastime:--
1. Never play immediately after a meal. It is best to have dinner two hours before the game begins.
2. In passing a ball to a comrade send it smartly and quickly straight into his hands.
3. Never pass the ball when you are near your own goal line, and never pass straight back except when opposite your opponents' goal, and the player to whom you pass is well placed for dropping a goal.
4. Never be too eager to pick up the ball and run with it. A neat dribble with the feet is often most effective, and it is generally very difficult to stop.
5. In collaring an opponent always keep your eyes open, and always go hard and low.
6. Never "speculate" or take flying kicks at the ball.
7. When fairly held by an opponent, do not waste your strength by useless struggling, but at once cry "held," and put down the ball.
8. When you have the ball in your possession, and find it impossible to pass it to advantage or to proceed, always punt into touch.
9. In handing off an opponent, turn your thumb inside your hand and turn the palm outwards with the fingers held together.
10. When one of your own side is running with the ball, always follow up close behind, but a little on one side of him. When passed by an opponent who has it, try to get round again to meet him before he reaches your goal line.
11. In your spare time practise punting, drop-kicking, and place-kicking, with both feet. An otherwise good player is often left out of a team in order to make room for one who is not quite so good, but is able to kick.
12. Study the laws of the game whenever you have an opportunity.
13. Always keep your temper and do not talk. Obey your captain at once, and unhesitatingly accept the decision of the referee.
14. Change your clothes as soon as possible after playing, and in going home be careful to wrap up well.
In conclusion, I would point out that if properly played Rugby Football is not dangerous. The great majority of accidents which occur are due to the neglect of one of the simple rules here laid down--through useless struggling, loose collaring, wild kicking, or blind rushing. The rules for the Association and the Rugby game may be obtained for one penny each, so we have refrained from reproducing them here.
$Golf.$--This is another of those games well learned on the field, by observation of the best players, and by hints from friends. We have, however, compiled a series of injunctions based upon long experience.
DRIVING.--Lower your left shoulder. Stand still and do not see-saw with your body. Plant your feet squarely. Grasp your club lightly yet firmly in the hollow of your fingers. Slowly swing well back and complete your stroke well through, pushing to the very end with your right hand. It is a disadvantage to try to get under the ball.
THE BRASSY.--In using this club swing as far back as you can, slowly.
THE MASHIE AND IRON.--Swing back very slowly and have the forefinger of your right hand well down the club, which should be held lightly. Go well through with the stroke and rise slightly off your left heel.
PUTTING.--Grasp the club firmly, swing back very slowly, and go well through with the stroke.
GENERAL ADVICE.--In all kinds of strokes swing back slowly with your left shoulder down and the forefinger of your right hand well down the club. Ever have your eye upon the ball, and finish every stroke to the very end. In all your strokes let your arms go well out from your body. Your hands should be close together on your club and the right hand well round to the left but not under the club. Press the ground with your feet and stand well back upon your heels.
$Hints on Boxing.$--It is true that boxing has become associated with all manner of ruffianism, but it is true also that it is one of the most effective forms of physical exercise, and that low life and brutality need no more enter into this pastime than into cricket. All the muscles are exercised, and dexterity, nimbleness, prompt decision, quickness of sight and many other admirable qualities are promoted.
The right arm is held across the body so as to protect the pit of the stomach. The elbow of the left arm is held to the side. This position enables the boxer to hit from the shoulder, an important matter in boxing. The right leg bears most of the weight of the body, an arrangement which permits rapid movement backwards and forwards as occasion demands with a minimum of exposure. The left side should be towards your antagonist, the left hand has the principal part of hitting allotted to it, the right stops, parries, and at close quarters hits too.
Study all these things carefully before a mirror, noting what parts are exposed and the manner in which the exposure may be remedied.
Throw your head well back, and watch your opponent's eyes, for there you get the earliest indication of his intentions, and therefore you are able to make your arrangements for circumventing his plans. When you strike let it be from the shoulder and with all the weight of your body pressing the right foot upon the ground and making a kind of spring. Do not draw back your hand to make a stroke, because that gives your adversary warning. Come upon him unawares and then recover your position immediately. Generally the time to strike is when your left toe is level with his heel, but if his reach is longer or shorter than yours this rule may need modification. Remember that a curved blow is longer on its way than a straight one.
If your adversary strikes at your face or the upper part of the chest, do not retreat from the blow, but fling your right arm sharply outwards and upwards, catching your opponent's arm by the wrist, and throwing it out of the direction in which it was aimed. This generally lays open your opponent's head, and gives opportunity for a smart return blow with the left hand; it is then near his head, and has only a short distance to go. This return blow is called the "counter," and is very effective, as it arrives when your opponent is expecting to give rather than receive a blow. This plan of campaign may be practised before a mirror.
"Stopping" comes in where this parry is impracticable. If your adversary strikes at your body you must either get away, stop, or suffer the blow in hopes of being able to hit him in return. In stopping you receive the blow on your arm, and break its force.