CHAPTER XVIII

PETS

$Cavies or Guinea Pigs.$--In starting these little chats, suppose we commence with cavies. Some who ought to know better have said that cavies are very dull, stupid little animals, but I entirely disagree with this, as will also the lad who has kept them for ever so short a time; they are bright, intelligent little fellows, and most pleasant to make pets of, and although they belong to the rodent or rat family are not the least vicious. Cavies are extremely clean in their habits, very handsome in colour, and if their little houses are kept clean there is no disagreeable smell from them.

Now before you buy your "guineas" you should build and furnish their house, and I will proceed to tell you how to do this. The selection of a suitable place comes first. If you live in the country there is generally an outhouse or wood-shed, and if so here is the spot to commence operations; if, on the other hand, you only have a small garden or back-yard, then select a spot in it which gets a fair share of pure air and sunlight, and which is protected from the cruel east winds. The smooth-haired cavy must have a hutch not less than 2 ft. long, 18 to 20 in. from front to back, and about the same height. Let the floor of your hutch have a slight fall to the back so as to carry off the moisture; the roof must also have a slope, and should be covered with tarred felt, or brown paper well tarred and sanded, which makes a capital waterproof covering. In the front of your hutch have a closely and well-fitting wooden door, large enough for you to clean out the interior comfortably; the other portion of the front must be covered with wire netting of a very close mesh. Be sure that your doors fasten securely, as some cavies have a habit of shaking them, and if not properly secured, open comes the door and out drops poor guinea, who is almost sure to be killed. It is always best to have the hutch two or three feet from the ground, and resting on four legs, which is much better than nailing it to the wall. After having got so far, go carefully over your work to see that there are no cracks or crannies in your hutch, as these let in draughts, which lead to disease and death. Cover the floor of the hutch with fine sawdust, and over this some sweet chopped hay, and your house is ready for its occupants.

Without going fully into the history of the cavy, I may say that it is a native of South America, where in many parts it is very numerous. In its wild state the cavy, where the ground is suitable, burrows like a rabbit; in damp, marshy places it hides under the many plants that flourish in such neighbourhoods. They are not difficult to catch, and not being of a savage nature are easily tamed. In their native haunts they are greatly esteemed as an article of food, and although I have never had the pleasure of tasting cavy flesh, I am told by those who have, and who are well able to give an opinion, that it is delicious; and I see no reason to doubt it, as cavies are exceedingly cleanly in their habits and feeding.

There are several varieties of cavies, and as these are bred in almost every colour they afford the greatest pleasure, not only to the lad who is fond of experimenting, but also to hundreds of men and women. That the various colours can be easily bred and well fixed, has been proved beyond doubt by the many handsome little specimens that are to be seen at any of our exhibitions to-day. As we have them now, we may for our purpose divide the cavy into three classes or divisions, namely, long-haired (Peruvians), rough-haired (Abyssinian), and smooth-haired; but before going on with their description I would like to say a word as to handling them. This may seem superfluous, but it is not so, as they are easily injured; therefore, when you have occasion to lift your pet put your finger and thumb of the right hand round its neck, not tightly, but sufficiently firm to hinder it slipping, gently raise it and place it on your left hand, and so it can be safely lifted about and handled. In mating your cavies remember that the boar (male) controls the colour and outward characteristics of the future family, consequently he should be as typical in colour and shape as possible, and not younger than ten or twelve months; the sow (female) must not be less than about six months old, and in selecting her see that she is very tame and gentle, as she gives the inward characteristics to the young ones. Of course, in keeping cavies, as in any other variety of pets, a very great deal depends on the individual fancy, and, therefore, I shall give a short description of the three classes mentioned, and leave you boys to select which you think will give you the greatest pleasure.

THE PERUVIAN CAVY.--The Peruvian cavy is noted for its long hair, which is its chief characteristic, and when nicely combed and brushed it would be hard to find a handsomer little fellow. The hair grows right over its head and face, so that it is sometimes difficult to see either its eyes or ears; yet its beautiful bright eyes are always on the look out, and can see you and all your movements. On the body the hair grows to such a length that it trails on the ground, some actually having it as long as seven or eight inches. The hair or fur should be as long, soft, and silky as possible, and to keep it in proper order a good deal of attention is necessary; it grows very evenly from a natural parting, from the crown of the head to the stern, falling over to each side, and to keep your pet neat and trim as well as healthy you must brush its coat regularly, using a soft brush, and if any part is matted take a wide-toothed comb and very gently comb it out. You boys know what it is to comb your hair when it is matted, and how it hurts if roughly done. Remember, therefore, that without care you will not only cause your pet pain, but, as the fur or hair on it is only, comparatively speaking, slightly attached to the skin, carelessness will result in pulling it out, thus leaving bare and unsightly patches. If, however, the brush is regularly used, there will be little or no need of the comb.

THE ABYSSINIAN CAVY.--The next variety that claims our notice is the quaint little Abyssinian or rough-haired cavy. Unlike the Peruvian, the hair of the Abyssinian is short and hard or rough to the touch, and instead of growing all one way it is rosetted, as it were, in bunches, each rosette or bunch being separate and distinct, and the more evenly these are distributed over the body the more charming the result.

What do my readers think of one of these little fellows--a beautiful tortoiseshell, very well rosetted, and with short, hard hair, being sold for upwards of £30? But such is a fact. It was bred by a lady who takes a very great interest in Master Cavy, and who exhibits some most beautiful specimens, and it was disposed of for the sum mentioned. The Abyssinian is a hardy little chap and must not be "coddled" up in a warm hutch. Keep him dry and sheltered from draughts and he will thrive merrily.

SMOOTH-HAIRED CAVIES.--Last, but not least in any shape or form, comes the smooth-haired variety, which you boys all know, I am sure, and which is, as it fully deserves to be, the favourite. The coat of the smooth-haired cavy is soft and velvety to the touch, and the immense number of colours in which it is now bred makes it a most delightful little pet. I will not go through the many different colours further than to mention that we have them black, white, golden, brown, grey, red, and the various sub-divisions and blendings between these colours.

The cavy has a good-sized head, is Roman-nosed, has a very thick, or bull, neck, and a nicely rounded body, tapering towards the stern; eyes full and bright, and small, neatly-shaped ears; his whole make-up giving him the appearance of a cheerful, happy, and contented little fellow.

Now, as to feeding, remember that regularity and cleanliness must be observed, and that a variety or change in food is very much relished, and is necessary for the health of your cavies. For breakfast, which give early, provide some bread and milk sop, in which now and again put a piece of boiled potato; and as a change, in cold weather some barley-meal, scalded in boiling water and made into a nice crumbly mass. This latter is very warm and comforting, too, for supper, in cold frosty weather. As dry food, you must have good sound oats, wheat, a few crushed peas, bran, and hay. Green food must on no account be overlooked, as it is one of the most valuable things for keeping the blood cool and the stomach in proper working order; but remember that all green food _must be fresh_ and dry. Almost any green stuff is relished, but there are a few kinds that are very good: lettuce, cabbage leaves (not too many), parsley, celery tops, carrot, turnip, beet-root, chickweed, groundsel, and chicory. Clean water must be always at hand, and a drink of milk now and then is much appreciated. As cavies are very apt to scratch their food all over the hutch, and so waste a lot of it, you should always feed in dishes or troughs. The heavy earthenware troughs, with flanged edges, which are used for rabbits, are best, as they cannot be upset, nor the food scratched out easily. I prefer earthenware to any other material, as it is so easily cleansed, and there is nothing about it that will poison or give a disagreeable taste to the food. Though water and dry food should always be at hand for your cavies, never leave soft food or greens long in the hutch, as these soon become tainted, and if eaten in that state bring on disease. Let them eat their fill of soft food and greens, and then take away any that is left. The lad who pays proper attention to his pets will soon be able to gauge to a nicety the amount of food they require.

$Rabbits.$--If you have sufficient pocket-money you can buy a hutch ready-made, or you can build it on similar lines to that for cavies, but of course much larger.

For ordinary-sized rabbits a hutch 3-1/2 ft. long by 20 or 22 in. will do, but for lop-eared and Belgians it should be 4-1/2 ft. by 2 ft.; whilst for Flemish giants 5 ft. by 2 ft. It is always preferable to have your hutch in some outhouse, where, though the inmates will have plenty of fresh air, they will be protected from very cold winds and rain. As there is a deal of moisture from rabbits, it is a good plan to have the floor of the outhouse cemented and connected with a drain, so as to carry off the wet that comes from the hutches; but as this cannot always be managed by boys who keep a few rabbits as pets, you should have a piece of guttering fixed along the back of the hutch and so placed that it will drain into a pail, in which put some sawdust and a little disinfectant, which will keep down any unpleasant smell. This pail you must empty every two or three days. In every hutch I like a part of it boarded off as a sleeping-room, which can be easily done by making a wooden partition and slipping it into the hutch, allowing a space of 12 inches for this purpose. This partition must have a hole cut in it large enough for the rabbits to pop in and out comfortably. Over this part of the hutch you must have a well-fitting wooden door, not only to keep them warm, but to darken the nest and so make them comfortable. In giving your rabbits their food, remember that you cannot measure the quantity exactly, any more than you can say that because you have eaten so much to-day you will want exactly so much to-morrow and every day during the week. Study and observation are the only true guides. In giving soft food and green food let them have as much as they eat up _greedily_ and no more. Feed twice a day, as early as possible in the morning and about sundown. In the morning give soft food, such as barley-meal, pollard, sharps, middlings, and bran, which mix with scalding water into a soft, rather crumbly than sticky mess. A few tea-leaves in the soft food now and then is a nice change.

Of course, these foods must not be all mixed together, but given on different mornings, so as to provide a nice variety. As there is not much feeding in bran it should always have one of the other foods mixed in it.

When they have had breakfast put sufficient corn into their troughs to last them all day to nibble at, and for this oats are best; but as a change, once or twice a week crack up some barley for them. A feed, once a week, of grey peas, steeped till well soaked, will also be much relished. Bits of biscuit and dry, stale crusts are also good, and can be given at any meal. For the evening feed give a bit of sweet hay, dry, sweet clover, and green food of almost any description that grows, so long as it is fresh and dry. It is impossible here to mention all the greens they will eat, but amongst others I may mention parsley, chicory, dandelion, lettuce, cabbage, celery, clover in flower; carrots, turnips, and mangolds (a slice or two) are very good. Be very careful not to leave any soft food or greens lying about the hutch, as they soon spoil, and not only smell offensively, but injure the rabbits.

On the floors of your hutches spread sawdust (pinewood sawdust is first-rate when it can be had), and over this some nice clean straw; and always keep in the hutch a little of one of the many disinfectants that are now manufactured. Drinking vessels and feeding troughs should all be made of glazed earthenware, the latter having a flange round them to prevent the rabbit scratching out the food, and being heavy enough to prevent them being pulled about and upset. Once more, do not neglect cleanliness and regularity in feeding.

THE LOP-EARED RABBIT.--One of the oldest varieties of the rabbit when these were first taken in hand and bred as fancy or domestic stock, was the Lop-ear; and so, paying reverence to his age, I will give him the first place. At the majority of rabbit shows I see lads and young men, as well as old ones, congregated in eager groups round the pens containing the Lops, or, as they are sometimes called, the King of the Fancy. I need scarcely tell our boys that the great feature in the Lop rabbit is the immense lop or hanging ears.

Well do I remember in the early days how proud the owner of a Lop was if he could show to those assembled a specimen whose ears measured from tip to tip 19 inches; yet to-day, such a rabbit (if an adult) would not be looked at by the judges in a show, for specimens 25 inches and upwards are now produced. In measuring the ears you must understand it is done as follows: Take hold of one ear, lay it flat out full length, but not stretching it to hurt the rabbit, then place a rule at the extreme tip of the ear, pass it along, across the head, and so on to the tip of the other ear, which must be held out at full length as was the other, and so you have the proper measurement of your specimen so far as length is concerned. Besides this, however, you want width of ear, and this should, roughly speaking, be one quarter the total length, measured across the widest part of one ear.

The ears of the Lop must be as long as possible and wide in proportion; not set on too closely on top of the head; thick at the root, and fall gracefully down the sides of the cheeks, nicely rounded at the tip and free from knots or lumps; the head large, with full, round, bright eyes. The body, when in repose, should be rather low at the shoulders, rising in a graceful curve to the hind quarters, which should be gradually and nicely rounded off, the head resting on the pouch or dew-lap; the tail must be straight, and carried close to the body, and the fore-legs straight and strong. Lops are bred in various colours, such as black, yellow, fawn, blue, grey, and tortoiseshell, so that there is any amount of room for experimenting. Some people, I am sorry to say, have the absurd idea that constant pulling and stretching the ears of their rabbits, whilst even in the nest, greatly helps to lengthen them, but like many cruel and ignorant ideas it is altogether wrong. All that Lop rabbits require to develop the length of ear and keep them healthy is regular feeding, cleanliness, and being kept at a temperature of from 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit; to secure which, during spring, autumn, and winter, artificial heat must be supplied, the best for the purpose probably being hot-water pipes.

Lops breed freely, but, as the young ones require a good deal of nourishment, the doe should, in order not to weaken her too much, only be allowed to bring up two or three, the others being given to nurse-does or foster-mothers, which can generally be had easily if a little trouble is taken to enquire for one or two amongst friends who keep rabbits. A healthy common rabbit makes a good foster-mother.

THE HIMALAYAN RABBIT.--It would be difficult to find a more handsome little rabbit than the Himalayan, and as it is one of the healthiest and hardiest of the coney family, I propose to give a few particulars of it. To commence, then, the Himalayan, or, as it has been called, the Chinese rabbit, has a perfectly white body, with dark chocolate-brown (as nearly black as can be) ears, nose, feet, and tail, and pink or rich golden eyes, the whole appearance being that of a very handsome animal. The ears must be short, close together, and stand very erect, so much so that if you bend them in any direction they immediately spring back into their proper position when released. The eye is round, bright, and rather full, and as I have just said, pink or rich golden in colour; the shape is very graceful, rather long than short or stumpy, giving it all the appearance of a thoroughbred animal. The coat is short, pure white, and fine and silky in texture, and the weight of a full-grown specimen should not exceed about six lbs. The fur is greatly in request for the making of imitation ermine, and good skins are always saleable to the manufacturers. Now that we have this beautiful little rabbit in our hutch, how are we to preserve its distinctive markings in all their beauty? For be it remembered that the white turns yellow, and the black or dark brown markings grey, unless proper attention is paid to them. In Chinese or Russian markets where these rabbits are on sale, we are told that the colour, especially on the feet, is not so distinct as is seen in our domestic specimens; and this I can quite understand, as, with their constant burrowing and scratching amongst damp sand, earth, lime, etc., the colour on the feet will soon be affected. A very great deal of care is bestowed by those who exhibit Himalayans in order to have their handsome markings as even as possible; for instance, the ears, from roots to tips, should be as dark as possible, and the nose the same colour, as well as all four feet and tail. This is often difficult to get; still, were it all as simple as A B C, there would be little honour in producing what any one else could produce without trouble.

As on many other questions, considerable discussion has been carried on as to how best to preserve the distinct colour. Many argued that the rabbits should be kept in entirely dark hutches, as they said the light not only destroyed the colour, but the rabbits in their wild state lived in dark burrows; just so, but these people forgot that such of the wild specimens as are to be seen in the foreign markets are not of that dark or nearly black colour, especially so far as their feet are concerned, as are those which are domesticated. Others took up the extreme opposition view, and recommended as much light as possible. These latter were further astray than their "dark" opponents, for there is no doubt that constant exposure to the full light does destroy the purity of both black and white. Another thing that was overlooked by the advocates of light was that too much exposure to light affected the eyes of the Himalayan, which, as I have said, are pink, for it is a well-known fact that human beings, as well as animals and birds who have pink eyes, avoid a strong light. Himalayans are best provided for in a partially darkened or shaded hutch, and this can be easily arranged, especially if the hutch stands in an outhouse or shed; if not, then partially cover the front with a bit of sacking or anything that will keep off the full glare. If your Himalayan is allowed to sleep or sit about in a wet hutch the colour of the feet will soon be destroyed; but if the hutch is built as I previously described, all water from the rabbit will soon run away. However, in the case of the rabbit under notice, it is best to make "assurance doubly sure," so, on the bottom of your hutch put a nice layer of fine sand or sawdust, and over this straw or dried ferns, then any water will run through and be absorbed by the sand or sawdust, which should be raked over each morning, and renewed once a week. Do not give your Himalayan too much green meat, and never any that is wet or stale, as they are rather prone to scours. A few acorns are always a valuable thing to have on hand, and immediately bunny is seen to be relaxed; give one or two, and you will soon see the great good they will do.

SILVER AND ANGORA RABBITS.--Amongst the many beautiful specimens that are to be seen now-a-days at exhibitions and in the rabbitries of breeders, the silver varieties hold a deservedly high place. The various colours include silver grey (light, medium, and dark shade), silver brown, silver cream, silver fawn, and silver blue. The silvers are of medium size, and should weigh between six lbs. and seven lbs., be compactly built, having a very neat head, ears moderately short, clear bright eyes, and with that general appearance of activity that denotes a healthy constitution. The coat or fur is close-fitting and smooth to the touch. The skin or ground colour of the silver grey should be blue, the fur consisting of black, white, and blue hair, and, according to its distribution, so we have the three shades of light, medium, or dark, as mentioned. When the silver grey is born it is black, the colour only beginning to develop between the age of one and two months, and being fully developed at about five or six months, when their coats are very handsome. Some breeders, in order to get the silvering as quickly as possible, help nature by keeping their pets in artificially heated hutches; they succeed in thus accelerating development, but, as we have found from many years' experience, those who so interfere, and think they know more than Mother Nature, have generally to pay the penalty for their presumption; for rabbits, too quickly developed, although their coats have a beautiful appearance, do not continue so long in that grand bloom and brightness that denotes the rabbit that has been allowed to get its coat as nature intended. All the warmth that is necessary can be obtained by having the hutches water-tight, kept clean, and protected from the extremes of heat and cold.

During the years the silver grey colour was being perfected, it is needless to say, crosses of various colours had to be resorted to, and amongst these were white rabbits, which naturally threw offspring with white or very pale ground (skin) colour in many cases, and as the fur grew, it was observed that the white hair predominated, giving the rabbit a cream or fawn colour, the lighter being designated creams, whilst the darker (or medium) were called fawns. The silver brown was another outcome of the various crosses, the Belgian, wild English, and common grey hutch rabbit, all leaving their trace in the silver variety, the under coat and top coat being, as the name denotes, a brown colour; this colour, pretty as it is, is not so "taking" to the eye as the other handsome ones are, and so it has not been kept or bred so carefully as the foregoing colours mentioned. The silver blue is still a rare colour, and has not yet reached anything like such perfection as the others; a correct blue, whilst evenly silvered, should show a beautiful blue colour all through.

Although not so frequently seen, the Angora is an exceedingly handsome rabbit, but needs a good deal of attention to keep it as it ought to be. The great feature of this breed is the immense length of its wool--not hair, mind, boys--which should be of the finest quality, soft as silk, pure white, and well distributed all over the body; the face and ears have less wool, in proportion to the other parts, but finer and more silky. The head is not very broad, and is surmounted with a pair of small and neatly-shaped ears, the eyes being pink and bright, a beautiful contrast to the snow-white wool. The weight should not exceed seven lbs. or eight lbs., although from the amount of wool they carry, they look very much heavier. Angoras must be kept in large hutches, on the bottoms of which have nice, clean, soft, oat straw. To keep their coats in proper order, they must be gently combed and brushed at least every other day, care being taken to pull as little wool out as possible. Should any part of the coat become matted, do not "tug" at it with the comb, which should be a wide-toothed one, but disentangle it with your fingers, and use a little warm water on it to help; if it is too securely matted to enable you to loosen it, there is nothing for it but to clip it off, which will, of course, spoil its appearance till the wool grows again.

A healthy, well-groomed Angora is one of the handsomest pets possible; but on the other hand, if neglected, the coat becomes foul and matted, and a more disconsolate, miserable-looking animal it would be difficult to imagine. The hutches must be cleaned out thrice a week, and a manger fixed in which to put hay or clover, of which they are very fond, and which is good for them.

BELGIAN HARES.--The Belgian hare is a large and very handsome variety of our domestic rabbit. Although designated "hare," it is not a hare at all, but a rabbit pure and simple, although it has more of the hare-like form and colour than any other variety. Being a large animal, scaling from eight pounds to ten pounds in weight, it is necessary that it should be kept in a large, roomy hutch. An old and experienced breeder says the hutch should be at least 5 feet long, by 2 feet broad, and 18 inches high, and the shaded sleeping compartment 6 inches wider than in the ordinary hutch. The Belgian in colour somewhat resembles the English hare, being of a sandy-brown or golden-foxey colour, ticked as evenly as possible with dark chocolate, thus giving the fur, which should be short, firm and glossy, a very handsome appearance; the head is of good size, broad between the eyes, and gradually tapering towards the nose; the eyes, a special feature in Belgians, are a beautiful brown colour, full, bright, and wild-looking; the ears, about five inches long, should be laced round the edges with black, and carried very neatly and closely together; the body should be long, giving it a graceful, hare-like carriage, so much esteemed, and the legs strong, long, and straight. Belgians are very apt to develop a dew-lap or pouch, or as some have called it a large double chin; this is a defect, but, owing to an undoubted cross at a remote time with the lop rabbit, is very difficult to avoid. Many specimens now-a-days do not show this point until they get old and fat. One of the best preventatives we believe is large airy hutches, and the avoidance of over-feeding. Where it can be done, Belgians should be allowed to run in a nice dry open shed, or failing this, an hour's run three or four times a week on a nice, dry grass plot. Plenty of room, judicious feeding, and cleanliness, work wonders in the development of the Belgian hare.

DUTCH RABBITS.--Unlike the Belgian, the Dutch rabbit is noted for its small size, and is generally called the dwarf or bantam representative of the domestic rabbit. There are few lads who have not been captivated by the handsome little Dutchman, and there are few large rabbitries where some of them are not kept, such great favourites are they. The breed being of small size should not exceed about five pounds in weight, and many grand ones are to be found under that weight. The pretty markings, combined with the various colours of this variety and the difficulties in getting both colour and markings exactly as they ought to be, makes the breeding of them very fascinating to those fond of experiments, and who delight in observing the various developments of the little animal.

Probably the most favourite colours are the blacks and the blues; but greys, tortoiseshells, and yellows, are all alike handsome. The head of the Dutch rabbit is shapely and not large, the ears small, neat, and carried slightly backwards; the eyes in this variety are frequently not both of the same colour owing to crossing for various colours, and the too frequent and pernicious habit of in-breeding. It is, however, necessary that both eyes should match, and be bright and sparkling; the body rises from behind the shoulders, curving nicely over the stern, and giving the rabbit a compact, well-put-together shape; legs, medium length, straight, and fine in bone.

Now to come to the markings of this little aristocrat of the rabbitry. From between the ears comes a narrow white line, gradually widening as it descends to, and encircles the smellers, and continuing round the face, this is called the "blaze," the cheeks and ears are of the same colour as the body, whilst the chest, fore-legs, and shoulders are pure white, and the hind feet for about an inch and a half should also be white, the whole remaining part of the rabbit being a solid colour, as black, blue, grey, etc. The collar of white which runs round the shoulders should descend in a straight line, as though cut with scissors, encircling the fore-legs. The markings of a Dutch rabbit should be sharply defined, and not blur or run into each other. For instance, in a black Dutch, the cheeks, ears, and body from behind the shoulders should be a bright, solid, glossy black, and the remaining part pure white, a very beautiful contrast indeed. One great advantage in keeping and breeding Dutch rabbits is that they are small and can be more successfully brought up in cool, outdoor hutches.

If your rabbit has canker of the ear, clear out the discharge by gentle pressure with a sponge or soft rag soaked in warm water, taking great care that none of the water falls into the ear. When dry after this bathing, apply the following lotion, which any druggist will make up for you: sulphate of zinc 12 grains, water 2 ounces, wine of opium 1 drachm, mixed. Or you might try a mixture of one part Goulard's extract of lead to five parts of pure olive oil. Hold the rabbit's head on one side and pour into the ear half a teaspoonful of either of the above twice a day. Give plenty of the best food, for if the rabbit does not feed well the chances of recovery are slight.

$Cage Birds.$--CANARIES.--Having determined to keep a bird, the first thing is to provide proper accommodation for it, and here let us suppose the lad has only accommodation for one, or at most, a pair of birds. Very well, then, procure a cage. Oh, yes, says the boy; of course, I know that. Just so, but do not forget that there are cages _and_ cages, and that whilst some look very pretty and are quite an ornament, they are perhaps the most unsuitable and miserable of prisons for poor little Dick; avoid by all means round cages, which are the worst possible for the poor little inmates, who have no room to exercise themselves, and where it is quite impossible for them to get out of the way of draughts or shelter themselves from the scorching sun. The best and most convenient cages are those which have plain wire in front, the rest being made of wood; the larger the size the better, as a great thing is to give the inmates plenty of room for exercise. The size that I have used for years in which to keep a pair of canaries or other small birds, is as follows:--Length 24 in., depth, from back to front, 10 in., and height 15 in. In such a cage small birds will live healthily for years. Next in importance to size of cage is where to hang it, and a great deal depends upon this point. First, then, let me impress upon you never to hang Dickey (except, perhaps, for an hour or two's change in fine, but not too sunny weather) in front of the window, for here the bird is exposed to draughts and every change of temperature, which is more injurious to the health and well-being of your pet than anything else. Select a part of the room against one of the walls as free from draught as possible, and where there is plenty of light and air; and be particular not to hang the cage higher than (but rather below) the level of the gas, as when that is lighted the air in the higher parts of the room becomes very hot, and anything but comfortable or healthy for the bird. Now that you have got your cage, which will be fitted with the necessary perches, drinking glasses, and seed hoppers, examine it carefully to see that it is clean and free from insects, then fill your water-glasses, and put seed in the tins or hoppers, and on the bottom of the cage a good supply of sand and small grit, which can be bought in penny bags at all corn chandlers or bird-shops, and your house is ready for Master Dick. Perches are usually too thin. They should not be like a lead pencil, but more like your thumb, and flat on top. Feed regularly each morning, on either the mixed seed, or, as we prefer it, buy some good, clean, sweet, canary seed and summer rape seed, and mix them yourself, one part of the latter to two parts of the former; clean water each day, and a wee bit of nice, dry, fresh, green food, such as groundsel, watercress, lettuce, chickweed, or plantain, as they are in season. Do not indulge your bird in luxuries, but Dickey will enjoy (and it will do it good) now and then, a morsel of sweet, ripe apple, pear, grape, or cherry. Following these directions, and keeping the cage thoroughly clean, you will find Dickey a delightful pet and one that will repay you for any little trouble.

Whenever you have occasion to go near the cage, either to look at the bird or to feed or clean it, always speak to it cheerfully but quietly, and so gain its confidence, and you will soon be surprised how earnestly it will greet you whenever you come into the room. It will greatly contribute to the health and vigour of your bird if you can now and then let it fly in the room where the cage is. Close the room door and windows, and, yourself and Dick being the only inmates, talk to him and then open the cage-door and sit down, and you will be amused at the bird's antics; first he will hop on the ledge of the door, then, looking this way and that, he will either try his wings on a fly round the room or drop to a table or chair-back, and so investigate the whole surroundings; do not startle the bird whilst it is out or it will get frightened and dash itself about. If it seems unable to find its way back to the cage, talk to it and drive it gently in that direction, but never wave a handkerchief or paper at it or you will probably frighten it to death.

ZEBRA-FINCHES.--One of the merriest, boldest, most impudent and inquisitive little fellows is the handsome zebra, or chestnut-eared, finch; a prettier or more charming little pet it would be difficult to find. Zebra-finches are the hardiest and best known of the Australian finches, and are natives of Queensland and New South Wales, where they are found in great numbers; they are stoutly built, compact little birds, measuring between four and five inches from beak to end of tail, the tail itself being about an inch and a half long. The hen is soberly clad in grey with yellow beak and legs, but her mate is a handsome little fellow and somewhat difficult to describe; his beak is red; head, neck, and throat grey, the feathers on the latter being pencilled with white, which gives it a very beautiful appearance; the ears are a bright chestnut colour, and a line of black and one of white surround the beak; the breast is white, sides darker chestnut spotted with white; back and wings grey; tail black, barred and spotted with white; legs orange colour.

No description, however, can adequately convey the handsome appearance of Master Zebra-finch when in the full beauty of his plumage. He is a fearless little fellow and bold to the extent of rashness in defending his mate, for he will attack birds many times larger than himself, and generally comes off the victor; and then doesn't he let you know it; how he struts about, blowing himself out and trumpeting to his heart's content. They are most lovable little birds, their every action being full of grace.

Zebra-finches do not sing, but the male bird's note is a sweet trumpeting sound, very cheerful and pleasant, and varying in tone. Watch him making love to his little mate or helping her to make a nest; how low and soothing is his little trumpet, and how much it is appreciated is easily perceived by the joyous twitterings of his soberly clad lady-love; listen to him again when he is "showing-off"; with what vigour does he blow his trumpet, and how proudly he hops about, especially if he has just thrashed a bigger fellow than himself. I kept a pair for several years in a cage, such as I described to you, and although kept in a room where more or less noise was going on all day they were as happy as the day was long, and being continually petted and talked to became very tame, "Master Jocky" never failing to trumpet to us when we went to the cage or spoke coaxingly to him; his little wife "Jenny" was, however, very shy and always allowed her lord and master to do all the talking, she chiming in now and again as though saying "Hear, hear," to his remarks. As I had not, at the time, convenience for an aviary, I made a point, as soon as the birds were thoroughly tamed, of opening the cage-door every afternoon for an hour or two so that they might fly round the room; and how they did enjoy themselves! The first time I opened the cage-door they made no rush for freedom, but seemed to talk the matter over with each other, and then Jocky came to the open door, trumpeting his best to attract my attention. I spoke to him, and then, apparently reassured, he launched himself forth across to where I was and back again to his cage; then he enticed Jenny to come out, and they flew round and round, resting close together on the top of the cage now and then, when he would trumpet in his loudest and most vigorous tones; they would thus tire themselves out, and in a few minutes after would be sound asleep. Thus they lived joyously for years, but she at last succumbed to egg-binding, which, unfortunately, with this variety is more common and more fatal than with many others. They had lived together so long and so happily that poor little Jock never got over his sorrow, his delightful little trumpetings soon lost their bonny sound, and do what we could we failed to rouse him to anything like what he used to be, and so one morning when we took the cover off his cage he was dead. We all sorrowed over their deaths, for they made themselves most lovable little companions to one and all of us.

Dr. Greene, the naturalist, speaking of his first experience with these delightful little birds, says:--

"As soon as I got them home, I turned the birds loose into a greenhouse in which was nothing but a grape-vine in full foliage. I shall never forget the delight of the little couple as they rushed into the midst of the leaves, the male trumpeting loudly and his mate twittering in joyful response. They paired almost as soon as I let them out of the cage, and in a minute or two the hen bird was hopping about with a little bit of fibre she had picked up off the floor in her beak, looking for a place to build her nest in; this she was not long in finding, and on my supplying her with some fine hay, she very soon, or, I should say they, for the male helped in the construction, made a little domed nest among the vine branches, and in less than a week were engaged in the important duty of incubation, male and female sitting alternately on five tiny white eggs."

Zebra-finches breed freely, especially when kept in cages in a rather warm temperature. The young ones, which are hatched in about twelve days, do not leave the nest till fully fledged, when they almost immediately commence to feed themselves, when they must be removed or they will interfere with the old birds. When kept in an aviary not supplied with heat artificially, they generally content themselves with two or perhaps three broods a year, which is much better for them. It must be remembered that when kept in an aviary with other birds they are inclined to be quarrelsome and masterful, frequently either taking possession of some other nest or pulling it to pieces to construct their own, in spite of the fact that abundant nest-making material is lying about.

For food, canary seed and millet is the best, and will keep them vigorous and in good health. As a change give them a few hay-seeds, a spray of millet, or some grass in flower, which they will greatly enjoy, as also now and again a morsel of sweet apple or pear. When bringing up young, give a small piece of sponge cake and a little of the yolk of a hard-boiled egg crushed and mixed with sweet biscuit. Always see that they have plenty of grit, and keep a piece of rock-salt and cuttlefish-shell for them to peck at. They are very cleanly birds, and when the weather is not too cold, should be allowed a bath at least twice or thrice a week.

BUDGERIGARS.--This beautiful little bird, called variously "Undulated Grass Parrakeet," "Zebra Grass Parrakeet," and "Shell Parrot," is a native of South Australia, and is deservedly a very general favourite, its hardy constitution, the readiness with which it adapts itself to confinement, its handsome plumage, and its winning ways, all tending to make it a great pet. It can be kept in a large cage, but is much merrier and more contented in a garden aviary, where it may be kept all the year round so long as it has an inner compartment to retire to in very severe cold or wet weather. It is a miniature long-tailed parrot, measuring seven or eight inches, of which the tail is about half that length; its general colour is a brilliant grass-green, the head pale primrose, whilst the neck, shoulders, and wings are yellow-green, the feathers being edged with grey, giving it an undulating appearance, hence one of its names; the two long middle-tail feathers are blue, whilst the others are yellow with green tips; the beak is white, chin yellow, spotted with blue, which latter colour also runs down each side of the beak like a moustache; legs and feet grey or slate colour. The male bird is distinguished from the female by the blue colour of the cere round the nostrils, which in the female is of a brown shade.

Budgerigars breed well in confinement, the season lasting from about December to July, during which two or three broods will be produced. Several pairs can be kept together in one aviary, the only thing to be particular about is to provide sufficient nesting material, otherwise quarrels ensue. In the native woods these handsome little fellows generally make their nests in the hollows of gum-trees, taking very little trouble as to furnishing it; in an aviary they will select almost any hole or corner; but one of the best nests I know of is the husk of a cocoa-nut, which should have a hole cut in one end; this should be hung high up so that mice cannot reach it, and a perch should be provided close to the hole, where the male will sit and sing his love ditties, and tell his wife all the gossip of the day, whilst she is attending to her maternal duties inside. The hen lays three, four, five and sometimes six eggs, the youngsters being hatched in fourteen or fifteen days. When feeding-time comes the young ones do not open their mouths as do so many young birds, but the parents take the beak of their offspring into their own, and the youngsters feed themselves on the food which the old ones disgorge for them. The young birds leave the nest when five or six weeks old, as soon as they are fully fledged, and in a few days leave the parents, who soon set about nesting again; the first thing they do being to thoroughly clean out the husk for the reception of the next batch of eggs. If husks cannot be got conveniently, little wooden boxes (which should have some sawdust put in so that the eggs will not roll about) holes in the wall, or a rotten wood log will do.

When kept in small cages budgerigars, not having room to properly "show off," are apt to become silent, but once in an aviary and the change is marvellous, as they dart about, tumbling, twisting, and climbing in all positions in the most graceful and delightful manner, and singing a pleasant little song all the while, stopping now and again as though to exchange confidences and to express delight at their surroundings. These birds do not bathe, but one of their greatest delights is to tumble and roll about in wet grass; if, therefore, the aviary has not a grass bottom, a large sod should be supplied and artificial rain produced by the aid of the watering can. When thus tumbling about, and the sun glints on their plumage it sparkles like so many gems. So far as food is concerned these charming little birds are easily satisfied, canary seed and white millet being sufficient to keep them healthy and vigorous, the only change necessary being when they are feeding young ones, when a little stale bread soaked in water and squeezed dry, and a few oats, should be added to their bill of fare; the simpler the diet the better, so do not indulge them with tit-bits. In the aviary or cage always have a supply of clean drinking water at hand, pounded oyster shells, as well as sand, fine shell grit and cuttlefish bone, which can be had at all bird shops, seed dealers, etc.

Being such hardy, sprightly little fellows, the handsome budgerigars are not liable to so many illnesses as frequently fall to the lot of our caged pets; now and again one may have a fit, due probably to improper feeding; should such occur, be careful to correct your feeding, and give grass in flower, dandelion, or a bit of groundsel. Cramp they sometimes suffer from, which is produced by cold or damp, the latter more especially; a simple remedy is the removal of the bird to a warm and dry atmosphere. All cage-birds (hens) are liable to egg-binding, one of the most serious complaints, and difficult to deal with, and budgerigars suffer from it like the rest; it is seldom curable, but immediately the hen is observed to be suffering she should be taken gently, very gently, in hand, and a drop or two of castor oil or sweet oil put in her mouth, whilst the egg passage should be gently oiled with a feather, and then held over the mouth of a jug of hot water, so that the steam may get to the part affected, and so relax it and assist in the delivery of the egg. A bird which has been egg-bound should not be allowed to mate and go to nest again, as sooner or later she will again suffer from the distressing complaint and die.

Any one fond of birds cannot fail to be delighted and charmed with such a handsome, good-tempered, loving, and jolly little fellow as the budgerigar.

$How to treat Dogs.$--Twice a day feed the dog moderately. Paunch and tripe are excellent for dogs. Boil this food, cut into small pieces, in a moderate quantity of water, and when the meat is sufficiently done throw into the gravy some good dog biscuits. When these are soft mix meat, biscuits and gravy well together. For an occasional change oatmeal or rice may be given instead of meat. During the summer boil a cabbage with the food twice a week, for unless dogs have vegetable food occasionally they are liable to have mange and scurvy. In winter put mashed potatoes in the food sometimes, for these contain the properties for which dogs sometimes eat the coarse grass in some parts called couch grass, in others twitch. Once or twice a week a dog should have boiled liver and sometimes milk in which powdered brimstone has been placed. Always he should be able to drink clean water. A dog's kennel should be in a dry, sheltered place and lifted from the ground. It should face south or west. Let him have plenty of dry straw. Wheat straw and oat straw are best; it is said that barley straw will cause mange. Cedar or pine shavings are good if you can secure some. In cold weather a piece of canvas or carpet should be nailed to hang over the entrance, and great care should be taken to keep the kennel dry, or there will be mange and lameness. A kennel with an adjustable bottom which can be removed to be cleaned, is better than one with a fixed bottom. At least every two weeks the kennel should be thoroughly cleaned. Apply some good disinfectant to every crevice with a brush, then expose the inside to the sun and air to dry it. It is usual to chain the dog to the kennel, but a better plan is to place in front of the kennel a stout wire about fifteen feet long stretched between two posts that are about three feet above the ground. The ring at the end of the dog's chain should have this wire running through it. This plan gives him a much wider range.

To destroy vermin in a dog rub soft soap well into his coat, and in about a quarter of an hour lather it well into him, and then wash it away with an abundance of tepid water.

When dogs have the "husk," a kind of cough, they should be fed with finely chopped suet boiled in milk, with a little garlic also finely chopped added to the suet. For worms, administer a teaspoonful of salt either dry or dissolved in lukewarm water. This is also a good remedy when distemper begins, for it acts as an emetic.

The least exercise a dog should have is an hour each day. Dogs kept in the house should have exercise for half an hour before breakfast and after supper too. A run at mid-day, too, is an advantage. To lead them out soberly on a chain and back again is not sufficient for a dog. He needs more lively exercise than that. A large dog should run six miles each day. Brush your dog's coat each day and wash him once a week.

Bad habits should be checked when the dog is young, with a whip if that is necessary, but without cruelty. A little whip goes a long way with a dog. Even the sight of it is sufficient usually. Be sure he understands for what he is being punished, and be consistent. Don't laugh at him for one thing one day, and punish him for it another. Do not let him annoy neighbours by barking. If you do it will serve you right if the neighbours obtain an order from the magistrates for his destruction. They are entitled to do this, and, indeed the right ought to be exercised more often than it is.

So far we have mentioned grown dogs only, but a few hints about puppies may be given. When these are five or six weeks old they may be weaned. Feed them now for three weeks upon boiled milk, sometimes breaking into it a little stale bread. Then they may begin to have soup made of meat and vegetables occasionally. When they are between six weeks and a year old they may be fed three times a day, the most generous meal at night before they go to sleep.

$The Raven.$--If you keep a raven be prepared for unending mischief and destruction. He needs plenty of room, and will eat most things. Raw meat is perhaps his favourite diet, and he is pleased with rats, mice, small birds, beetles, grubs or worms, and bread. He ought to be fed once, and once only, each day, for he will find insects, worms, and other delicacies for himself. From time to time he loves to retire to a place that is sheltered, warm and dark, and where no one can see him.

$White Mice.$--The principal food for white mice is bread-and-milk, oatmeal grits, and any other common food, except cheese, which is bad for them. They should be kept particularly clean, and their cages overhauled each day and the bedding changed, or they will smell offensively. Cages may be adapted from boxes. Give them more room than the bought cages give them, and a dark compartment.

$Jackdaws.$--The jackdaw is tamed easily, and can be taught to say a few words. It is as alert as a terrier for visitors, and affectionate towards its friends. Jack loves a bath, and may be fed on bread and milk, oats, mice, small birds, insects, and meat.

$The Jay.$--The jay is not so impatient of captivity as the magpie, and will tolerate confinement in a large cage. It will eat meat, small birds, mice, insects, worms, and is particularly fond of eggs. It eats, too, much vegetable food.

$The Magpie.$--Do not keep a magpie unless you can give him generous room. He is a very clever talker and mimic. He is extremely fond of bathing, and a plentiful supply of water is needful to keep his beautiful plumage in good condition. The food of the magpie is the same as that of the jackdaw.

$The Hedgehog.$--This animal likes insects and snails, frogs and mice, and will even kill a snake, and eat it. In its wild state it sleeps all the winter, rolled up in a hole which it has filled with grass, moss, or leaves; and when tamed it will hide itself in some dark place for weeks, and never make its appearance, unless it should feel hungry. Hedgehogs destroy beetles, eating them quickly and gladly. They need no looking after, but will fend for themselves, though it is better to have a little hutch to put them into sometimes. Their feeding-time is in the night; and if there are black-beetles in the kitchen, the best plan is to leave the hedgehog there.

$Silkworms.$--Buy a few eggs, which should be of a lilac or grey colour. Avoid yellow ones.

The silkworm when hatched is black, and about one-fourth of an inch long. The desire for food is the first sign of life, and it is more alive then than at any other time. When about eight days have elapsed its head becomes enlarged and it turns ill, refuses food, and remains torpid for about three days. This seems to be caused by the pressure of the skin, which has become too tight. The difference in the size of the worm from the beginning to the end of the caterpillar state is such, that the worm has been provided with several skins, each of which it throws off in succession.

The silkworm feeds on the leaves of the white mulberry; or, when these cannot be obtained, upon those of the black mulberry; or even upon the leaves of the lettuce.

The eggs should be bought about the end of April and placed in trays made of pasteboard. Over the case put thin gauze. The trays may be placed in a window facing the south, where they are fully exposed to the sun, and there they should remain undisturbed till the eggs begin to hatch. As the worms appear they should be removed into other trays, and fed with the mulberry leaves. The temperature should be from sixty-six to seventy degrees, and the room ventilated, and preserved free from damp and from too much dryness. The trays should be kept clean, dead leaves and any other refuse cleared away. In moving the caterpillars from one tray to another they should not be touched by the fingers, but removed by threads of cotton passed under their bodies, or with a camel-hair brush.

The caterpillar has four moultings, which may be all over in four days each, if the heat of the room be increased to from ninety-five to one hundred degrees of Fahrenheit. When the heat is lower, the first moulting takes place on the fourth or fifth day after hatching, the second in four days more, the third in five or six days more, and the last in about eight days. Ten days more are required after this moulting, so that in about thirty-two days after hatching the caterpillar is fully grown.

At the end of this time the silkworms change to a clear pink or flesh colour, and look semi-transparent; they refuse food, become restless, and prepare to spin their cocoon. Care should be taken to raise the walls of their tray or they will climb over and be lost. The cocoon nest should now be prepared by twisting the corners of a piece of writing-paper, and raising its edges into the form shown in the illustration. A number of these should be prepared and fixed to a piece of tape, with their pointed ends downwards; and into each one a single worm should be placed when it refuses its food, and seems inclined to spin: it will then weave its web so as to leave a space within.

The cocoon consists of three layers of silk: the first is loose and flossy, and is of no use for the silk manufacture; the second is closer, the silk crossing from side to side; and the third is still finer, and is stuck firmly together, so as to form a compact inner coating.

When the cocoon is completed, the enclosed caterpillar once more casts its skin, with its head and jaws attached to it. It is now a conical chrysalis of the ordinary shape. At first the chrysalis, when opened, contains only a yellow fluid, but by degrees the parts of the moth appear, and in a fortnight or three weeks a swelling of the chrysalis indicates the approach of another change. A rupture down its back comes next, and the moth bursts through its coating into the hollow of the cocoon, and if left to itself would soon eat its way through.

The chrysalis, however, must be stopped from eating through the cocoon; and the silk must be wound. When, by shaking the cocoon, it is found to rattle, then it is time to wind the silk. The cocoon is placed in a cup of warm water, after the loose outward silk has been removed, and then, an end being taken, the whole filament may be wound off on a piece of card. The length of the thread of a cocoon varies from 600 to 1,000 feet.

When the silk is wound off the aurelia presents itself, and being put in a separate case, it remains motionless for about twenty days, when it appears as a pale yellow moth. The male soon dies; the females lay their eggs on the slips of paper provided for that purpose. They then soon die.