Chapter 4

[Page 107] Article--SATIN STRIPED REPS Reed 60/62 Disp. 6 Width 20¼ in. STOCK AND DYE Warp--Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26 $5.00 black bright 22 oz. .60 .73 .21 ----- lbs. 3.56 $6.54 $23.28 Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20 $5.20 .65 sky bright P.D. .23 .12 ----- lbs. .83 $6.20 5.15 Cotton 100/2 $1.00 .12 .08 ----- scarlet lbs. 1.37 $1.20 1.64 Warping--8316 at 4¢. 3.32 Twisting--7434 at 50¢. 300 meters 1.24 Filling--Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16 $4.00 .35 scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends .45 .15 144 picks. lbs. 3.57 .10 ----- $5.05 18.04 Weaving 12.00 Picking 1.00 Finishing 1.00 ------ $66.67 Expenses 15% 10.00 ------ $76.67 Divide by 87½ Cost per yard = $0.8763

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[Page 108] Article--MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3 Disp. 7 Width 23 in. Warp--Jap. Ex. 13/15 $4.50 .60 2-Thread navy bright 16 oz. .45 .15 ---- lbs. 3.20 $5.70 $18.24 Warping--4320 at 3¢. 1.30 Twisting--4260 at 30¢. 300 meters .41 Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15 $4.00 .35 emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz. .95 .25 1/3 ends 100 picks .15 ----- lbs. 2.50 $5.70 14.25 Weaving 9.00 Picking 1.00 Finishing 1.00 ------ $45.20 Expenses 15% 6.78 ------ $51.98 Divide by 87½ Cost per yard = $0.5941

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Article--BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double Disp. 8 Width 36 in. Warp--Jap. ex. 13/15 $4.50 .60 2-Thread Organ. black bright .64 20 oz. .19 ----- lbs. 5.77 $5.93 $34.22 Warping--7964 at 2¾¢. 2.19 Twisting--5296 at 30¢. 600 meters .27 Filling--56 picks by $4.50 5 organ. 2 Cotton .60 .64 .19 .45 .12 .10 ----- 40 picks Organ. as warp $6.05 .08 6.05 lbs. 1 .07 16 picks black cotton 15/4 ----- lbs. 22.50 $ .70 15.75

Weaving 12.00 Picking 1.50 Finishing 3.00 Expenses 8.00 ------ $82.98 Divide by 91 Cost per yard = $0.9119

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[Page 109] Article--CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave) Reed 60/2/2 Disp. 9 Width 40 in. 44½ in. in reed Warp--Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22 $4.50 .05 winding ----- 2% waste lbs. 5.60 $4.55 $25.48 Warping--5340/2 at 2½¢. 2.67 Twisting--5340/2 at 25¢. 600 meters .23 Filling--Jap. No. 1 13/15 4 ends hard twist 60 turns $4.00 1.25 throwing 84 picks by 2 right, 2 left 0.05 quilling twist ----- 25% waste and shrinkage $5.30 lbs. 6.00 31.80 Weaving 9.00 Finishing and dyeing 5.00 Picking 1.00 Expenses 7.00 ------ $82.18 5% discount 5% selling expense Divide by 90 Cost per yard = $0.9131

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Article--CREPE GEORGETTE Reed 50/2 (Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist Disp. 10 Width 40 in. 47 in. in reed Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw $5.20 1.60 ----- 2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns $6.80 $36.72 30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40 Warping--4640/1 30/2 4760 at 4¢. 1.90 Twisting--4700 at 50¢. 600 meters .40 Filling--Same silk as warp 100 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist $5.20 1.60 .10 ---- lbs. 5.00 $6.90 34.50 Weaving 15.00 Picking 1.00 Finishing and dyeing 6.00 ------ $95.52 Expenses 12½% 11.94 ------- $107.46 Divide by 87½ Cost per yard = $1.2281

[Page 110] CALCULATION BLANK

ARTICLE_____________________________________REED_____________________

DISP________________________________________WIDTH____________________

WARP_________________________________________________________________ | | | | | --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|-------- | | | | | --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|-------- | | | | | --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|-------- | | | | | WARPING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | TWISTING____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | FILLING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | ____________________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | WEAVING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | PICKING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | FINISHING___________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | EXPENSES____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________ | | | | | | | | | | --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------

PRICE PER YARD

[Page 111] INDEX

DRAWING-IN, 7 Straight Draws, 7 Skip Draws, 9 Point Draws, 9 Section Draws, 10 THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, 15 The Taffeta Weave, 17 Gros de Tours Weaves, 19 Serge Weaves, 20 Twill Weaves, 20 FILLING EFFECTS 21 Satin de Lyon, 21 Levantine, 21 Polonaise, 22 Serge grosse coté, 22 Serge Romaine, 23 Serge, 23 WARP EFFECTS, 25 Levantine, 25 EVENSIDED TWILLS, 26 Surah, 26 Croise, 26 POINTED TWILLS, 27 SATIN WEAVES, 32 Satine de Chine, 34 Satin Merveilleux, 34 7 Harness Satin, 35 Duchesse, 35 IRREGULAR SATINS, 39 Satin Ture, 39 Satin à la Reine, 40 DERIVATIVE WEAVES, 41 From the Taffeta, 41 From the Twills, 43 From the Satin Weave, 46 Cannele and Repp Weaves, 49 DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, 55 Warp Effects, 55 FILLING EFFECTS, 58 Pekins, 60 Bayadères, 63 [Page 112] Checks and Plaids, 65 DECOMPOSITION, 67 The Weave, 68 Length and Width of the Fabric, 68 The Stock and Its Dye, 69 Reed Calculation, 70 Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, 70 Warping Ticket, 71 Harness Arrangement, 71 Reduction of the Filling, 71 Calculation of Warp and Filling, 71 Finishing, 72 Calculation of Cost, 72 DISPOSITIONS, 75 JACQUARD WEAVES, 100 Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, 100 Manufacturing Costs, 101 CALCULATIONS, 103 Calculation Blank, 110

[Page 113] OTHER BOOKS

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End of Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger