Chapter 3

#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 300 yards. 1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 80 picks. 1 pick = 47 inches. 36 inches = 1 yard. 1000 yards = 4,5 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 108 (8% waste).

300×36×80×47×4,5×108 ---------------------- = 21,414 lbs. 36×1000×256×100

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[Page 87] DISPOSITION 4

_Armure Satinée_

[Page 88]

#Length and Width#--One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.

#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright, 18/20 oz. _Filling._--3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams, black, bright, 24/26 oz.

#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 60 dents×4 single ends. " 19 " 1140 " 32 " (3% for shrinkage). ---- Total . . . 1172 dents.

#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 12 dents × 4 double. Ground, 1148 " × 4 single. 2d edge, 12 " × 4 double. on 12 shafts, straight through, or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.

#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 48/2 black. Ground, 4592/1 " 2d edge, 48/2 " ------ Total . . . 4784 single ends 64 yards long. =6½% for take up.

#Harness#--6 shafts, 4688 heddles per 19½ inches. 1 " 40 " " 1 "

#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.

#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4784 ends. 1 end = 64 yards. 1000 yards = 1,48 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 104 (4% waste).

4784×64×1,48×104 ------------------ = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs. 1000×256×100

[Page 89] #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 60 yards. 1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 104 } picks. 2 } ends. 1 pick = 19½ inches. 36 inches = 1 yard. 1000 yards = 2,95 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 108 (8% waste).

60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108 --------------------------- = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs. 36×1000×256×100

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[Page 91] DISPOSITION 5

_Surface Printed Armure._

[Page 92] #Length and Width#--One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.

#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers, white bright, pure dye.

_Filling._--5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14 deniers, white, bright, pure dye.

#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 52 dents, 2×2. " 18½ " 962 " 20 " (2% shrinkage). ---- Total . . . 982 dents.

#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 7 dents, 4×2 gros de Tours. Ground, 968 " 2×2 armure 2d edge, 7 " 4×2 gros de Tours. Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw. Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.

#Warping Ticket#--Ground warp, 54 yards. 1936/2 white. Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards. 2×28/2 white, on separate rolls. Total . . . 3984 single ends.

#Harness#--12 shafts, 1936 heddles, per 18½ inches. 1 " 8-2/3 " " 1 " 4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.

#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.

#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 3984 ends. 1 end = 54 yards. 1000 yards = 1,50 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 104 (4% waste).

3984×54×1,50×104 ------------------ = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs. 1000×256×100

[Page 93] #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 50 yards. 1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 96 picks. 1 pick = 19 inches. 36 inches = 1 yard. 1000 yards = 4 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 108 (8% waste).

50×36×96×19×4×108 ------------------- = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs. 36×1000×256×100

After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the cloth.

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[Page 95] DISPOSITION 6

_Pekin_: 8 shaft satin and repp.

[Page 96] #Length and Width#--1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.

{ Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black, { bright, 20/22 oz. #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._ { Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky, { bright, pure dye { Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.

_Filling._--3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams, scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.

{6×1, black satin #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 68 dents, {6×2, colored " {2×1, " repp. " 20¼ " 1377 " 23 " (1½% for shrinkage). ---- Total 1400 dents.

#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 7 dents, 6×2 satin. } Ground, 34 " 6×1 " } 2 " 6×2 " } 10 " 6×1 " } twice } 2 " 2×1 repp. } over. } 10 " 6×1 satin. } 2 " 6×2 " } 39 " 6×1 " } 5 " 2×1 repp. } twice } 4 " 6×1 satin. } over. } 7 times 5 " 2×1 repp. } over. 15 " 6×1 satin. } 2 " 2×1 repp. } 15 " 6×1 satin. } 5 " 2×1 repp. } twice } 4 " 6×1 satin. } over. } 5 " 2×1 repp. } 5 " 6×1 satin. } 28 " 6×1 " } 2d edge, 7 " 6×2 " } Satin on 1st section of 8 shaft skip draw. Binder " 2nd " " 2 " Repp " 3d " " 2 "

[Page 97] On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the satin to slide over into the repp stripes.

#Warping Ticket#--I. _Beam satin_, 106 yards. 1st edge, 42/2 black. Ground, 204/1 " } 12/2 sky. } 180/1 black. } 12/2 sky. } 234/1 black. } 48/2 sky. } 7 times over. 180/1 black. } 48/2 sky. } 30/1 black. } 168/1 " } 2d edge, 42/2 " }

6132 single ends black. 1680 " " sky.

II. _Beam repp_, 110 yards. 4/1 scarlet. } 4/1 " } 10/1 " } 10/1 " } 10/1 " } 7 times over. 4/1 " } 10/1 " } 10/1 " } 10/1 " }

504 single ends scarlet cotton

This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the warper the same as shown in Fig. 95.

[Page 98] [Illustration: Fig. 95]

#Harness#--Fig. 95 shows how to make a diagram of a harness for a Pekin. The heddles are marked per one shaft. As the repp stripes are only small ones, we use for the satin a full harness, that is, one without open spaces for the repp stripe. All together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and double ends to draw in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both sides of the repp stripes. Thus remain for

8 shafts, 6636 heddles per 20½ inches 1 " 40 " " 1 "

#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.

#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 6132 ends (1680 ends sky). 1 end = 106 yards. 1000 yards = 1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams). 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 104 (4% waste).

6132×106×1,35×104 ------------------- = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs. 1000×256×100

1680×106×1,15×104 ------------------- = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs. 1000×256×100

[Page 99]

? lbs. = 504 ends. 1 end = 110 yards. 840 yards = 1 skein. (No. 100/2) 50 skeins = 1 lb. 100 = 104 (4% waste).

504×110×104 ------------- = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs. 840×50×100

#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards. 1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 144 picks. 1 pick = 21 inches. 36 inches = 1 yard. 1000 yards = 2,8 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 108 (8% waste).

100×36×144×21×2,8×108 ----------------------- = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs. 36×1000×256×100

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[Page 100] JACQUARD WEAVES

Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower effects. To obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say taffeta, while the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say satin.

We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the repeat use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which means 200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.

With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a 499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. x 200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only the repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a 1200-hook machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can be produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be made.

There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower and other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For a jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.

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BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES

Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids (see pages 63-65), bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles are needed to bring out the effect.

For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.

To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or more shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.

[Page 101] If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy new box looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on each side.

With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.

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MANUFACTURING COSTS

The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and weaving.

Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.

After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, factory costs, and selling expenses.

To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."

The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk or poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also that more waste will be made.

THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first twist and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram receives only one twisting, about three turns to the inch.

As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple colors.

The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in a harness, also the reeding.

Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense accounts. If plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be figured for the latter.

[Page 102] EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his own system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put down the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards per year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents per yard.

Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses in percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain, peau de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having more picks, 12½ per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per cent. per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw silk, throwing, dyeing and piece work.

SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the selling expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. Small mills usually sell through a commission house, which pays all expenses and charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their own selling end, and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission house or a bank.

[Page 103] CALCULATIONS

The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in "normal times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as different localities have different prices.

Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.

Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré, faille, etc.

DISP. 7--A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.

DISP. 8--Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. This article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on each side. For warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, no knots must be tied.

DISP. 10--This article must be warped with as much tension as possible and no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on bobbins from throwster.

CANTON CREPE

DISP. 9--Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for filling at a little difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, but Canton silk is not as even and clean as Japan.

[Page 104] Article--TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3 Disp. 1 Width 18¾ in. Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 12/14 $5.00 raw silk .60 throwing 2-Thread Organ. brown bright .45 dyeing 16-oz. .15 winding ----- raw lbs. 2.60 $6.20 $16.23 Warping--4032 at 3¢. 1.21 Twisting--3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters .33 Filling--Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15 $4.25 raw silk .45 throwing 2/2 ends 104 picks .45 dyeing .15 winding gold bright 16 oz. .15 doubling .10 quilling ----- raw lbs. 2.73 $5.55 15.02 Weaving 7.00 Picking 1.00 Finishing 1.00 Expenses 7.00 ------ $48.79 5% trade discount 7½% selling commission Divide by 87½ Cost per yard = $0.5576

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Article--SURAH 3-1 Reed 80/2 Disp. 2 Width 36 in. Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12 $5.20 .65 2-Thread Organ. bright black .81 discount 15% 24 oz. .30 dyed 20% ----- lbs. 3.36 $6.96 $23.39 Warping--5904 at 2¾¢. 1.62 Twisting--5872 at 35¢.--600 lb. warp .25 Filling--cotton 120/1 $1.25 .10 dye black 1 end 120 picks .08 winding .07 quilling ----- lbs. 9.50 $1.50 14.25 Weaving 12.00 Picking 1.50 Finishing 2.00 Expenses 7.00 ----- $62.01 5% discount 6% commission Divide by 89 Cost per yard = $0.6967

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[Page 105] Article--SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4 Disp. 3 Width 2 x 23 in. Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14 $5.00 .60 2-Thread Organ. black bright .73 22 oz. .21 ----- lbs. 8.50 $6.54 $55.59 Warping--12624 at 2¾¢. 3.47 Twisting--12256 at 25¢. 600 meters .51 Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1--14/16 $4.00 .40 black souple 44 oz. 1.60 net .40 1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5 80 picks .40 doubling .30 ----- lbs. 7.14 $7.10 50.69 Weaving 13.00 Picking 2.00 Finishing 2.50 Expenses 8.00 ------- $135.76 Divide by 89 Cost per yard = $0.7627

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Article--ARMURE SATIN Reed 60/4 Disp. 4 Width 26 in. STOCK AND DYE Warp--Jap. Ex. 12/14 $4.75 .60 2-Thread Organ. black bright .64 20 oz. .19 ----- lbs. 4.30 $6.18 $26.57 Warping--6520 at 2¾¢. 1.79 Twisting--6424 at 25¢. 600 meters .27 Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 16/18 $4.00 .30 black bright 26 oz. .94 .25 2/3 ends 104 picks .25 .17 ----- lbs. 6.80 $5.91 40.19 Weaving 10.00 Picking 1.00 Finishing 1.00 Expenses 7.00 ------ $87.82 Divide by 89 Cost per yard = $0.9867

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[Page 106] Article--PRINTED ARMURE Reed 52/2/2 Disp. 5 Width 18½ in. STOCK AND DYE Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14 $5.00 2-Thread Organ. white bright .60 P.D. .23 .12 ----- lbs. 2.62 $5.95 $15.59 Warping--3984/1 at 3¢. 1.20 Twisting--1992/2 at 30¢. 300 meters .20 Filling--Ital. Tram. souple 13/14 $4.50 .30 white bright P.D. .23 .10 1/5 end 96 picks .07 ----- lbs. 3.08 $5.20 16.02 Weaving 8.00 Picking 1.00 Finishing and Printing 5.00 Expenses 8.00 ------ $55.01 Divide by 87½ Cost per yard = $0.6287

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