Part 5

The Tirpitz Battery.

This powerful battery has four 11in. armour-protected guns, mounted on circular tracks on hollow platforms of masonry about 46 feet in diameter.

The shelters behind the guns were destroyed. The battery was protected by trenches and barbed-wire entanglements.

On the left, facing the sea, are screens which masked the fire of the guns from the land observation-posts. In front of the right-hand gun was the post of commandment.

The guns of this battery were being built by Krupps in 1914, to the order of the Belgian Government, for the forts of Antwerp.

_Return to the town by Rue de Leffingue, Rue du Chemin-de-fer, and Quai du Châtelet; the latter skirts_ the 3rd and 2nd Commercial Docks _and ends at Place Vanderzweep, near the station (see plan, p. 60_). _Cross the bridge, on the left, between the 2nd and 1st Docks, then turn to the right along Quai de l'Empereur._

_The Place du Commerce is next reached, at the end of which stands_ the +Church of St. Peter and Paul+.

The modern Church of St Peter and Paul stands on the site of a former church of that name (1717) which was burnt down in 1896, with the exception of the campanile still standing behind the new building.

At the foot of the new choir is an allegorical group in white marble (by Fraikin), to the memory of Louis-Marie d'Orléans, first Queen of the Belgians and wife of Léopold I, who died at Ostend in 1850.

_Opposite the church, facing the port, is_ the =Maritime Station=, which suffered severely from the aerial bombardments.

The port of Ostend.

The port of Ostend dates back to the 15th century. In 1445, Philippe-le-Bon authorised the inhabitants of the town to make an opening in the dike, in order to construct a fishing harbour. The latter was situated opposite the present port, i.e. to the west, near Mariakerke. At the end of the following century it was moved eastwards, the sea having opened up a passage on that side, in consequence of the levelling of the dunes for the construction of the fortifications. However, the maritime installations which, until the end of the last century, formed the port of Ostend, dated from the time of the Emperor Joseph II. They were completely transformed and considerably extended in 1898-1914, the work being almost complete when the war broke out.

The new vast outer-harbour communicates with the sea by means of a wide channel enclosed between two open-work piers. The channel is also connected by a powerful lock to an immense modern impounding-dock, over 200 acres in extent. The tide supplies the water necessary for flushing the channel clear of sand.

The landing-stage of the Maritime Station borders on the outer harbour where the boats plying daily between Ostend and Dover were moored. Words cannot describe the scenes which took place here during the first half of October 1914, after the fall of Antwerp. At the approach of the German armies, panic-stricken crowds of refugees filled the stations and their approaches to overflowing, in frantic endeavours to get on board the ships that were to take them to Britain.

_Quai de l'Empereur is prolonged, beyond Place du Commerce, by Quai des Pêcheurs which skirts the =Minque= (or +Fish Market+) and the =Bassin des Pêcheurs=._

The Bassin des Pêcheurs (Fishing Dock) is connected with the outer-harbour, which precedes the channel. Near by is the "=Minque=" (Fish-Market),--a circular building in which the fish is sold by auction daily, the proceedings being announced by the ringing of a bell.

During the fine season the natives fish mainly along the English and Dutch shores, but go as far as the entrance to the Channel in the winter. Their boats are of the trawler type, fitted with conical drag-nets, the mouths of which, thirty to forty feet wide, are kept open by cross-stays. The nets are dragged along the bottom of the sea.

_Keeping along the dock-sides, the tourist next reaches the old lighthouse at the end of the dike. Take Boulevard Van Iseghem on the left, then Rue de Flandre on the left, in front of the theatre, leading to the Place d'Armes, in which stands the =Hôtel-de-Ville= (see plan, p. 60.)_

The Hôtel-de-Ville, built in 1711, and restored later, after mutilation, occupies the whole of one side of the Place d'Armes, in the centre of the old city. The long façade was flanked at either end by high towers, only one of which remains.

_To leave Ostend, for the second day's itinerary (Ostend-Zeebrugge-Bruges) take Rue de la Chapelle (continuation of Rue de Flandre) in front of the Hôtel-de-Ville (See, p. 60.)_

_Second Day_

=Ostend Zeebrugge Bruges=

_Leave Ostend by Rue de la Chapelle, which passes in front of the Hôtel-de-Ville (pp. 60 and 66) and leads to Place Vanderzweep. In this square, at the end opposite the Bassin du Commerce, take Avenue de Smet de Naeyer, which leads to the =Parc Marie-Henriette=._

Situated south of the town, between the two railways ending at each of the two stations, is Marie-Henriette Park, which owing to its great size, numerous winding alleys, clusters of trees, and artificial lakes with pleasure boats, was often deservedly called the "Bois de Boulogne". The long Avenue de la Reine connects it directly with the Western Dike; on the other hand, it borders on the new maritime installations.

_Cross the two bridges over the lateral canal, then the railway and maritime lock; take the first street on the left, which passes over the Ghent-Ostend canal and the sluice-gates. Take Chaussée du Phare, on the left, then the first street on the left, opposite Rue Mansveld, to the =Oyster-Beds=._

Ostend oysters, of world-wide repute among gourmets, are not natives of these shores. Gathered from the rocks on the English and Brittany coasts by the Ostend fishing-boats, they are fattened by a special process in the Ostend oyster-beds. The latter, situated in the lighthouse quarter communicate with the outer-harbour. They consist of reservoirs divided into compartments with planks, in which the sea-water, renewed every day, deposes its slimy sediment. During the War, the oyster-beds were closed.

_Taking Chaussée du Phare again on the left (see plan, p. 60), the tourist reaches the site on which_ the lighthouse used to stand, now a heap of ruins.

Built in 1859, its round tower, 175 feet high, showed a fixed white light. Behind is the old Napoleon Fort. Facing the lighthouse, at the end of the sluice dock, stands the Powder Magazine, a kind of fort where the Germans had two batteries.

_Tourists may go round the powder magazine by following the dike which is terminated by the Eastern Wooden Pier._ It was at the end of the latter that the British sank the "Vindictive" on May 11, 1918.

The Blocking of Ostend Port.

On April 21, the British Admiralty undertook to block up the ports of Ostend and Zeebrugge.

Under the command of Commodore Hubert Lynes, the flotilla left Dover at the same time as the one which was to block up Zeebrugge.

The Ostend flotilla was composed of the cruisers _Sirius_ and _Brilliant_ (Commodore Godsal), loaded with concrete, which were to be sunk at the entrance to the port. Destroyers, scouts and motor-boats were to reconnoitre the way and pick up the crews of the blockading ships. Lastly, smoke-boats provided a protecting screen of smoke, which hid the flotilla's movements from the enemy.

When twelve miles from Ostend this flotilla parted company with that bound for Zeebrugge.

The smoke screen hiding the _Sirius_ and _Brilliant_ was swept away by a sudden veering of the wind. The enemy's gunfire had extinguished the lights which were to guide the two cruisers, and the latter thus ran past the Stroom Bank buoy which should have marked the entrance to Ostend but which the Germans had displaced. They were therefore sunk to the east of the stockade.

This operation having proved unsuccessful, it was decided to make a further attempt, which was again entrusted to Commodore Lynes. This time the blockading ship was the _Vindictive_ (Captain Godsal), and the Air Service took part in the enterprise. On the night of May 9, the weather being favorable, the _Vindictive_ steamed towards a limelight placed by a motor-boat on the site of the Stroom Bank buoy.

Two motor-scouts torpedoed both ends of the wooden piers, at which signal the whole of the British artillery opened fire, and was immediately answered by the German guns. A thick fog soon swallowed up everything.

The _Vindictive_ had to be led by scouts and, notwithstanding the death of her commander, and the numerous shells which hit the ship, Lieutenant Crutchley was able to carry out the manœuvre, swing the cruiser across the channel, and blow her up. The crew were picked up by a scout, and the flotilla put back to Dover.

The Germans were eventually able to displace the _Vindictive_ and partly free the passage.

_Return via Chaussée du Phare to Place de l'Ecluse, turn to the left into Boulevard du Congo, which crosses the new eastern quarter of Ostend (see plan, p. 60.)_

_Just outside the town, a short distance before reaching the "Hôpital" (to the left of the road), turn to the left and skirt the left side of the "Hôpital", as far as the ="Hindenburg" Battery=_, consisting of four 11in. guns on semi-circular concrete platforms.

In front of this battery is the +Old Napoleon Fort+, which the Germans turned into a Casino during the war. Some of their mural paintings may still be seen in the rooms.

_Farther on, is_ the post of commandment of the "Hindenburg" Battery.

_Return to the road and continue in the direction of Blankenberghe._

_Beyond Milestone No. 6, which bears the inscription "Le Coq 5 km. 1", there is_ an observation-post, _on the left_, with telemetric posts and machine-gun shelters _(photos, p. 71)_.

On the coast, some distance ahead, may be seen one of the cruisers which were to have blocked the port of Ostend.

_On the road to Blankenberghe, at the point shown by an arrow in the photo on p. 72, take the road on the right leading to the ="Deutschland" Battery=_, also known as the "Jacobinessen" Battery _(photos, pp. 72 and 73)_.

This was the most powerful battery on the Belgian coast. Armed with four 15in. guns, it was used to bombard Dunkirk.

Grouped in pairs, these naval guns, mounted on bridges, were installed in concrete pits about seventy feet in diameter. The right-hand gun only was protected with armour.

The gun laying was effected by means of electric motors. Near each gun immense shelters of reinforced concrete were used to store the shells, while the large shelter between the two groups was probably the post of commandment.

Camouflaging of barbed-wire covered with branches of trees may still be seen hanging above the battery.

The latter was protected by deep lines of barbed wire and infantry defence-works.

_Return to the Blankenberghe road and pass through the village of =Le Coq= (Flemish: de Haan.) On the top of the last turretted house on the right, is_ an observation post, _and opposite, on the top of the dune_, a searchlight. _On the dike are_ two 3in. anti-aircraft guns, _and in the surroundings_, numerous shelters. _Further on, to the left, are_ a lighthouse, _and on the high dune_, an observation-post. _Pass through +Wenduyne+ (4½ kms.) arriving at the ="Herta" Battery=, on the left of the road._ This battery comprises four 8in. guns. _A little further on is the ="Hafen" Battery=_, comprising four 3½in. guns. _=Blankenberghe= (4 kms.) is reached by going between the Fishing Dock and Impounding Dock._

Blankenberghe was one of the most popular resorts on the Belgian coast. _On the dike_, the Kursaal, erected in memory of Lieutenant Lippens and Sergeant de Bruyne, both natives of Blankenberghe, who were killed in the Congo in 1893, _and_ the Pier (Promenade) are of interest.

_Follow Avenue Smet de Naeyer as far as the station, then turn left along Rue de l'Eglise, to the steps leading up to the dike. If it is not desired to visit the dike, turn to the right along Rue de l'Eglise and Rue des Pierres, then follow Avenue Jules de Trooz, and turn left along Avenue du Littoral. There are tram-lines along both avenues. Tourists who go as far as the dike should take Rue du Casino (on the right, at the top of Rue de l'Eglise), then Avenue Rogier which joins up with Avenue du Littoral._

_Beyond Blankenherghe the road is bordered, on the left, with_ fortifications and batteries. _Follow it as far as =Zeebrugge-Plage= (4½ kms.)_

The following batteries will be passed on the way:

The ="Kaiserin" Battery=, with four 6in. guns; the ="Mittel B" Battery=, with four 4in. long guns on concrete platforms, adjusted for firing against aircraft (this battery is on the top of the dune, with shelters below); the ="Groden" Battery=, comprising four 11in. howitzers.

Lastly, near the port of Zeebrugge, is the ="Zeppelin" Battery=, of four 4in. guns. The entrance to it is situated a short distance before reaching Zeebrugge-Plage.

ZEEBRUGGE.

At Zeebrugge-Plage (Beach), near the Pilots' House, _turn to the left alongside the railway, to_ the mole which bounds the Port of Zeebrugge on the west _(photo below, and sketch-map on page 77)_.

The port is situated about ten kilometers from Bruges, with which it is connected by a ship canal running straight across the littoral plain.

This canal, which is about 230 feet wide and 26 feet deep, is accessible to large ships. It cost forty-two million francs to construct. Communication with the roadstead is obtained by means of an inner-harbour which is provided with locks and sluice-gates.

The port is protected by a semi-circular jetty or mole which stretches out into the sea for a distance of about two kilometres; an elevated side-walk leads to the end of the jetty. The latter, built of blocks of concrete each weighing three thousand tons, is divided into four parts: the first, which spans the beach, is solid; the second is of open-work, to prevent the port becoming choked with sand; the third comprises the wharves proper, and forms the terminus of a special railway siding; it is solid and has an elevated walk running along the left hand side; the fourth, or Lighthouse Jetty, is also solid and acts as a break-water. This immense undertaking, begun in 1893, was completed ten years later, and the new port, on which great hopes were set, was solemnly opened, amid popular rejoicings, by King Leopold.

In October 1914, the Germans made a "pirates nest" of the port, which was consequently attacked unceasingly by British ships and Allied aeroplanes. The most important of these attacks was that which resulted in the blocking of the port.

_Motor-cars may go along the mole as far as the end of the wharves. See text and photographs on pages 80 and 81._

In spite of the enemy's formidable defences around Zeebrugge, the British determined to block that port, at the same time as Ostend _(See page 68)_.

The operations, carefully planned in all details, were extremely perilous on account of the minefields, the nature of the landing-places (unmarked by any lights), and the difficulty of finding one's bearings near a coast where the dunes of varying heights are indistinguishable one from another. The enterprise was entrusted to Vice-Admiral Keyes, Commander of the Naval Forces at Dover. The attacking flotilla was composed as follows:

Three old cruisers the _Iphigenia_ (Lieut. Billyard-Leake), the _Intrepid_ (Lieut. Stuart Bonham-Carter) and the _Thetis_ (Captain Sneyd), which, loaded with concrete, were to be sunk in the channel.

The protected cruiser _Vindictive_ (Capt. Carpenter), was armed for an attack on the mole; sailors and marines were to land, destroy the guns, drive back the Germans, and create a diversion, thus enabling the blockading ships to carry out their mission.

Two ferry-boats: the _Iris_ and _Daffodil_, armed for landing operations; two submarines, loaded with explosives, to attack the mole; destroyers to defend the flotilla against enemy attacks; launches and motor-scouts to pick up the crews of destroyed or sunken vessels, and smoke boats.

Vice-Admiral Keyes was on board the _Warwick_. All the men were picked volunteers of tried courage and energy.

The attack, several times postponed owing to the unfavourable weather, was carried out on April 22, 1918. The flotilla put to sea during the day. When about twelve miles off Zeebrugge, the boats parted company, each taking up its assigned position. The _Vindictive_, _Iris_ and _Daffodil_ advanced behind a smoke screen to within a few cable-lengths of the mole, when a change of wind dispersed the smoke, leaving them fully exposed to view. Enemy sirens immediately gave the alarm. Searchlights, rockets and star-shells lit up the scene, and the air was immediately filled with the roar of artillery and the crackling of machine-guns.

Amid bursting shells, and swept by machine-gun fire, the _Vindictive_ succeeded in anchoring alongside the mole, but her deep draught and the surf prevented her remaining in position, until held by the _Daffodil_. Most of the eighteen gangways were smashed by the cruiser's rolling. The _Iris_ was also in difficulties, her grappling irons being too small to catch hold. Two officers, Capt. Bradford and Lieut. Hawkins, climbed up the side of the mole and endeavoured to fasten the grappling irons. Both were killed. A landing was nevertheless effected, and in spite of heavy losses and the death of Colonel Elliot and Captain H. C. Halahan, the sailors and marines advanced along the mole, under very heavy fire, and for an hour destroyed the enemy's organisations, magazines, sheds, machine-gun posts, etc.

Meanwhile, the blockading cruisers had entered the port and were steering for the channel, despite the violence of the bombardment. The _Thetis_ was leading, but her propeller becoming entangled in a net, she was unable to advance further, and her crew blew her up on a sandbank in front of the channel. The _Intrepid_, followed by the _Iphigenia_, reached the channel, placed themselves across it and were then blown up. The crews were picked up by the motor-boats.

Just at the time when these operations were being completed, Lieutenant Sandford's submarine succeeded, despite the terrific artillery fire, in reaching the open-work part of the mole, where she was blown up, shooting flames to a height of nearly 5,000 feet, and making a breach over 60 feet wide in the jetty. A motor-boat picked up her crew.

A German torpedo-boat and the _Brussels_ were sunk by motor-launches. _(The "Brussels" was captured by the Germans on June 24, 1916. Her commander, Captain Fryatt, was shot on July 27, for having rammed the German submarine U-33)._

The _Vindictive's_ siren recalled the landing-party, who succeeded in bringing back most of their killed and wounded. The flotilla then weighed anchor and returned to Dover.

The operation had succeeded as well as could be expected. The two cruisers, although displaced slightly later by the Germans, blocked the channel, making it impossible for ships of other than light draught to go through. The _Thetis_ also helped to obstruct the entrance to the channel.