Part 3

_Subjected for three years to violent and frequent bombardments, Dunkirk was able, thanks to the admirable coolness and courage of her inhabitants, to maintain and develop its economic life in the interests of National Defence, thereby rendering invaluable service to the Army and Country. This heroic city is an example to the whole nation._

The Croix de la Légion d'Honneur was conferred on Dunkirk by President Poincaré on August 11, 1919.

A Visit to Dunkirk.

_Follow the arrows along the streets indicated by thick lines in the plan below._

_Starting-point: =Place Jean-Bart= in the middle of which is_ a statue of Jean-Bart (1844) _(photo below)_.

_Take Rue de l'Eglise (Rue Clemenceau) in which, immediately to the right, stands_ the =Church of St. Éloi= with the =Belfry= opposite.

Built in the 16th century, +St. Éloi Church+ contains a nave flanked by four side-aisles. The first bays, nearest the façade, having being pulled down, the belfry--an old watch-tower, which formerly abutted on the church--is now separated from it by the width of the street. The façade was rebuilt in 1890. In the interior are a fine +XVIII+th century pulpit, some old paintings, and the tomb of Jean-Bart _(left aisle)_ _(photo, p. 29)_. The right aisle was torn open by the shells _(photo below)_.

The =Belfry=, a large square tower of brick, 190 feet high, was built in 1440. It contains a peal of bells. From the top, there is a very fine view.

The entrance is on the rear side of the tower.

_Take Rue des Bassins, opposite the church, and turn to the right along Rue de La Panne, in which stands_ the +Church of John-the-Baptist+.

This 18th century church contains some fine paintings. On the altar: The _Consecration of Dunkirk to the Virgin_ (Elias); in the chancel, _The Death of Mary the Egyptian_ (G. de Crayer); _The Holy Family_ (Erasme Quellin); _The Holy Family_ (Le Guide); _Jesus crowned with thorns_ (Van Dyck). In the nave: _Paintings by Elias and de Janssens_. On the northern side of the church are the cloister and modern chapel of St. Philomène (shrine).

_Keep along Rue de la Panne; follow Quai des Hollandais, and turn to the right into Place d'Armes, in which stands_ the =Hôtel-de-Ville=.

The Hôtel-de-Ville was rebuilt in 1896-1901 of brick and stone (architect, L. Cordonnier). On the first floor are statues of illustrious Dunkirkians. Just below the roof there is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. The tower is 250 feet high.

_Take Rue du Quai, on the left, to the large square in front of the port, in which is the =Fish-Market (Mynk)=. (See sketch-map, p. 27.)_

The port of Dunkirk.

One of the busiest fishing and coast-trading ports in France, Dunkirk is especially important by reason of its import trade. The raw materials required for the industries of Northern France are discharged there, whilst iron ore, oil and metals are exported. Since the beginning of the 19th century Dunkirk has steadily grown and the fortifications have twice had to be extended (1861-1906). The ruined industries of the North and the competition of the Rhine may retard this growth, but the port's natural situation will always ensure a fine future for it. In 1920, the docks covered an area of about 100 acres, whilst the total length of the wharves was about six miles.

The port consists of a series of parallel docks, i.e., the extended rear port, the naval dock, the commerce dock, and wet-docks 1, 2, 3, 4, connected by the Freycinet dock. All these docks lie at right-angles to the great water-line formed by the grounding port and outer harbour, into which the channel debouches. Dunkirk also possesses extensive naval stocks provided with five large dry docks and a launching dock fifteen acres in extent _(See plan, p. 24.)_

_To visit the port, cross the bridges over Citadelle Lock and Western Lock; turn to the right along the quay, passing behind the wet-docks and skirting the graving-docks._ On the right, on the other side of the grounding port, the naval dock-yards come into view. _Cross the bridge of Trystram Lock, which connects up Freycinet Dock with the channel, then turn immediately to the right and cross the small bridge opposite the lighthouse, leaving the latter on the left. Skirt the channel (about 230 yards long and 27 yards wide), as far as the two booms which terminate it._ There are several observation-posts and armoured concrete machine-gun shelters near the lighthouse.

_Return to the square in front of the port and follow the quay, on the left, as far as Rue Carnot on the right, which leads to the Chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Dunes. (See itinerary, p. 27)._

This chapel is a favourite pilgrimage. The fisherwomen of Dunkirk made it the headquarters of their Sisterhood.

_A little further on stands_ the =Statue of Victory= commemorating the siege of 1793. This monument is the work of Ed. Lormier (1893) and was erected on the site of the old ramparts.

_Follow the tram-lines to =Malo-les-Bains=_, Dunkirk's beach.

_Return to Rue Carnot and take Rue des Vieux-Remparts on the left to Place du Theatre, where turn to the left into Rue Benjamin-Morel, in which stands =The Museum= (photo below.)_

_Take Rue Jean-Bart on the right, behind the theatre, then Rue Thévenet on the left, leading back to Place Jean-Bart. Cross the latter diagonally to Rue Alexandre III (see Itinerary, p. 27) which leads to Place de la République._ Here stands the monument erected to the memory of the Dunkirkians who fell fighting for their country. _(L. Morice, 1906.)_

_Cross Place de la République, then Place du Palais-de-Justice, turn to the right along Quai du Port au Bois then cross the bridge on the left (see Itinerary, p. 27). Take Rue de Paris on the left, in which stands =St. Martin's Church=._ This modern church, primitive Gothic in style, is flanked by two towers with spires.

_The tourist leaves Dunkirk by Rue de Paris and Rue des 4-Ecluses, which prolongs it, to follow the itinerary of the first day._

_Leave =Dunkirk= by Rue de Paris, continued by Rue des 4-Ecluses, cross the Canal de la Cunette (see lower half of itinerary, p. 27, and text, p. 32), and take the Furnes road (D. 15) which follows the right bank of the Dunkirk-Furnes Canal._

_At =Rosendael= (2½ kms. on the other side of the canal) stood_ the Civilian Hospital of Dunkirk, which was shelled several times during the war.

_On the left, 3 kms. further on, is =Dunes Fort=._

_At the first cross-roads (9 kms. from Dunkirk), the tourist may take the left-hand road to +Zuydcoote+, to see the great +Sanatorium for children+, on the coast, founded by M. Van Covenberghe._ Converted into a military hospital, it rendered invaluable service during the War _(photo above)_.

_To visit, go through =Zuydcoote=, turn to the left, beyond the level-crossing, then to the right 200 yards further on._

_Return to D. 15, and follow same on the left. At the first cross-roads (2 kms.) take G. C. 4 on the right to +Hondschoote+ (12 kms.)_

_Pass through +Ghyvelde+, then at +Les Moeres+ turn to the right, and on leaving, to the left._

_Beyond the level-crossing, =Hondschoote= is reached. Take Rue de la Prévôlé on the left, which leads to the Grand' Place._

Hondschoote is a small town of ancient origin, whose population has greatly decreased since the 16th century. It was there that, on September 8, 1793 the French, under Houchard, defeated and drove back the English who were besieging Dunkirk _(engraving below)_.

_On the right of the Square (photos, p. 35) is_ the 17th century Renaissance Hôtel-de-Ville, _while in the centre stands_ the early 16th century church, in which are a fine pulpit and organ loft (1755). _Near by is_ a monument (Darcq) commemorating the victory of 1793.

_Return to D. 15 and follow same to the right; cross the railway (l.c.); 2 kms. further on is the French Custom-House. The Belgian Custom-House is 3 kms. further on, near +Adinkerque+._

_Cross the canal and enter =Adinkerke=._

_Take the street on the left which skirts the churchyard._ Behind the church is a large Franco-Belgian cemetery, containing the grave of the Belgian poet Verhaeren. After the Armistice, his remains were transferred to his native town.

_Keep straight on along the La Panne road; 600 yards beyond the Dunkirk-Furnes railway, a small foot-path on the right leads to_ a military cemetery. _=La Panne= is next reached (3 kms.)_. This small seaside resort was one of the least modern places on the coast. _Follow Avenue de la Mer as far as the dike, to the left of which are_ three villas which were occupied during the war by King Albert and his staff.

_Return along Avenue de la Mer to the first street on the left, in which is_ the Hôpital de l'Océan. _0 km. 800 further on, on the left, take the street which runs alongside the local railway. At the first fork, take the left-hand road to =Coxyde= (5 kms. from La Panne.)_ Wire entanglements and shelters in the Dunes may be seen all along the road. There is a military cemetery on the left, _O km. 500 before reaching Coxyde_.

+Coxyde+, like most of the towns on the coast, is divided into the town proper, situated behind the Dunes, and the Baths on the coast.

_Turn to the left on entering the village._ The road crosses the Dunes, which are highest at Hoogen-Blekker (105 feet). Vestiges of trenches, wire entanglements, shelters and gun emplacements are to be seen on every hand.

_In the Dunes, on the right, is_ an emplacement for naval guns _(Photo opposite)_. Between this position and the sea is the camp known as that of Adjutant Lefèvre _(Photo below)_.

_The tourist may go as far as =Coxyde-Bains= (2 kms.) Return to and cross through Coxyde, keeping straight on to =Furnes= (3½ kms.)_

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FURNES

Furnes (Veurne) is a small town of about 6,000 inhabitants. Of ancient origin, it was the chief town of the "Veurne Ambacht" castellany, in the Middle-Ages. By the Treaty of 1715, the Dutch were empowered to place a garrison there, as a barrier against France.

During the War, Furnes became, after Antwerp and Ostend, the General Head-Quarters of the Belgian Army for a few months (1914-1915), the same being subsequently transferred to La Panne. More fortunate than Dixmude and Nieuport, practically all its public buildings and monuments escaped uninjured, although parts of the town were seriously damaged by the bombardments.

On January 28, 1920, President Poincaré, in the presence of King Albert, fastened the French _Croix de Guerre_ to the town's arms, with the following citation:

_"During four trying years, in spite of incessant bombardments by aeroplanes and long-range guns, always set a fine example of unshakeable faith in the final Victory"._

_Tourists arrive by Rue du Nord which opens out into the Grand' Place_, the ancient ornamental paving of which is very fine. Around the square are grouped the principal buildings.

The _=Hôtel-de-Ville= is on the right_.

Renaissance in style, it was erected in 1596-1612, from the plans of Lieven Lukas. The façade has two gables, one of which was preceded by a graceful _loggia_ which was removed during the war _(Photo, p. 40)_. The high belfry dates from 1628. _On the ground-floor see:_ the Council Chamber, with Spanish leather hangings: the College Chamber, with Utrecht velvet hangings; the Marriage Hall, with a still-life painting attributed to Snyders _(on the mantelpiece)_. The Great Hall on the first floor, with Spanish leather hangings, contains several royal portraits.

_Near by is_ the =Palais-de-Justice=, formerly the ancient castellany, built in 1612-1628 from the plans of Sylvain Boulin. Behind the Palais-de-Justice is the =Belfry=. The interior, restored in 1894, comprises several finely decorated rooms: the Waiting-Hall, the Justice Chamber (17th century), and the old Inquisition Chamber _(on the first floor)_. The Chapel contains some fine vaulting and a carved wooden gallery. A number of bronze tablets recording judgments are kept there.

_A narrow street between the Palais-de-Justice and a block of old houses with ruined gables, of which only mutilated fragments of the façades remain, leads to the =Church of St. Walburge=._

Of very ancient origin, its reconstruction was begun in the 14th century. The choir was completed in the 15th century. The nave is 14th century. The church contains magnificent stalls (early 17th century), wood-work, doors, and pulpit, also a _Descent from the Cross_ attributed to Pourbus. In the sacristy there is a 15th century shrine. The stalls, organ and altars were removed to a place of safety during the war. Much of the stained-glass was destroyed.

_At the corner of the Grand' Place and the Rue de l'Est stands_ the +Pavilion of the Spanish Officers+, built by the Spaniards in the 16th century as a barracks. Restored at a later date, it now serves as the Town Library and Archives _(Photos, pp. 39 and 41)_.

_Opposite is_ the old =Meat Market=, now a theatre, with its fine early 17th century façade.

_At the end of the square, facing the Rue du Nord, is_ the =Old Spanish Guard House=, an arcaded building of early 17th century construction. The lateral façade overlooks the Place du Marché-aux-Pommes, in which stands +St. Nicolas' Church+. Begun in the 14th century, building was continued in the 15th, and completed in the 16th centuries. The church, which has a high, unfinished tower suffered little during the war, although some of the stained-glass was broken.

Furnes possesses a number of curious old houses, the most noteworthy of which are the _+Noble Rose Hostelry+, 11, Rue du Nord, near the Grand'Place, and the +Pomme d'Or Hostelry+ in the Grand'Place_.

Victor Hugo lived in one of them in August 1837. The "Pomme d'Or" was used as a residence by the Spanish Officers (16th-17th centuries). Rebuilt in the 16th century, the "Noble Rose" was restored shortly before the War; it is now partly destroyed.

Every year, since the 12th century, a famous penitential procession took place at Furnes on the last Sunday in July, when the "Sodalité Brotherhood" performed the "Passion Play" in Flemish.

From Furnes to Nieuport.

_Leave Furnes by the Rue de l'Est, and immediately after crossing the canal, take the Nieuport road, on the left. At =Wulpen= (5 kms.), cross the canal to go to +Oost-Dunkirk+ (2 kms.)_ Numerous shelters, trenches, and wire entanglements are to be seen along the road.

_After crossing the railway (l.c.) turn to the left into =Oost-Dunkirk=._ Like Coxyde, Oost-Dunkirk comprises the town proper--situated behind the dunes, on a road which, via Coxyde, linked up Furnes with Nieuport--and the baths, 2 kms. further north, on the coast. Both places served as billeting quarters for the French Marines in 1915. The immense camps of wooden huts were occupied later by the Zouaves.

The town was practically destroyed by the bombardments; most of the houses are in ruins, but the church is still standing.

_To visit the Baths (2 kms.) take the road on the right, beyond the church,_ noticing the numerous shelters in the dunes. _Coming back from the dike, take the first road on the left to =Nieuport-Bains= (4 kms.)_ The road crosses a region covered with defence-works, trenches and wire entanglements, alternating with shelters and battery positions. The battle zone began there. All vestiges of life and vegetation have disappeared.

_Before reaching Nieuport-Bains_, a Franco-British cemetery _(photo below) is seen on the left, and a little further on_, the ruins of the church, with a cemetery in front.

=Nieuport-Bains=, a small watering-place situated 3 kms. from Nieuport and 17 kms. from Ostend, was perhaps the prettiest of the Belgian seaside places. There the dunes rise in places to a height of 100 feet.

As witness the trenches and _boyaux_ which run through the ruins of its pretty villas and fine hotels, Nieuport-Bains stood in the front line.

_At the end of the dike the road turns to the right in the direction of =Nieuport-Ville=. From here the tourist crosses the dunes parallelly to the sea._ Traversing the zone which formed the first line during the stabilisation period, the mouth of the Yser, protected by two wooden piers about three-quarters of a mile long and covered with sacks of earth, is reached. The Grande Dune, which General de Mitry attacked in January 1915, is on the right bank of the estuary, opposite Nieuport-Bains. The polders of Lombartzyde are somewhat to the south-west _(See p. 53)_.

Broken fragments of walls mark the site of the station on the dune. In front are a derelict engine and train, which have been there since 1914. Near by is the entrance to the covered trench which connected Nieuport-Ville with Nieuport-Bains; same may be visited.

_Return to the car and take the road to the left towards Nieuport-Ville (photo below)._

_Proceed to Nieuport (3 kms.) by the road (very rough) running parallel to the estuary of the Yser, past_ several shelters and artillery positions. _After crossing the bridge over a small canal, the tourist comes out on the wharves of Nieuport._ Once an important fishing port, little remains today of its former prosperity. A few fishing boats still give some little activity to the place.

NIEUPORT.

The small town of Nieuport is of very ancient origin. As early as the 9th century its site was occupied by a castle built by the Counts of Flanders to defend the coast against the Normans. The burgh, first known as Santhoven, took the name of Nieuport _(Neoportus)_ after the inhabitants of Lombaertzyde had migrated there. Situated on the Yser, the town served as a port for Ypres, and was an important business centre. It was besieged by the English in 1383 and by the French in 1489.

After a long period of stagnation, the enclosing walls were pulled down in 1860. However, with laudable respect for the past, the Municipality saw to it that the charming old-world aspect of the place was carefully preserved, by severely controlling the plans of all new constructions, and by prohibiting the use of materials not in harmony with the buildings already existent.

Nieuport, of which nothing remains but a few scattered ruins, was the scene of desperate fighting.

With Dixmude, it was one of the two main centres in the Yser defences, these two towns being, in fact, the bastions of the line of resistance.

Amongst other things, Nieuport possessed an elaborate system of lock-gates and sluices, by means of which the water in the canals throughout maritime Flanders was regulated.

It was easier to defend than Dixmude. The canals and water-courses which united in its port, separated the town from the enemy. It could, moreover, be more effectively protected by the guns of the Allied Fleet.

In October 1914, the Belgian 2nd Division held the outlying defences at Lombartzyde and Mannekensvere (east of St. Georges).

On October 19, it was attacked by the German 4th Reserve Division. Three consecutive attacks against Lombartzyde having failed, the enemy began to shell Nieuport with their heavy artillery.

Renewing their attacks, the enemy captured Lombartzyde, but were unable to debouch. Crushed by the bombardment, Nieuport fell into ruins.

From October 18 to 25, in spite of the heavy bombardment, the Belgian 7th Infantry Regiment held the banks of the Yser, to the east, in front of St. Georges, near the Union Bridge, which the Germans, debouching from Mannekensvere, tried in vain to carry. The Belgian batteries, often without cover, stubbornly supported the defenders. On several occasions, guns were hauled up on the river bank into the infantry lines, whence their direct hits smashed the farmhouses and German machine-guns concealed in them.

The enemy crossed the Yser at Schoorbakke, outflanking St. Georges from the south, which had to be evacuated.

Instantly, batteries of the Belgian 5th Brigade, brought up by hand, opened a rapid fire at short range with high explosive shells upon St. Georges and the approaches to the canal, where the enemy were concentrating.

Mowed down where they stood, the assailants vainly attempted to debouch from the village, where piles of their dead lay among the ruins. The 14th Line Regiment, which had meanwhile relieved the 7th, was able to withdraw in good order.