Chapter 4

NOTES BY THE WAY TO COUNCIL BLUFFS 93 THE EMIGRANT TRAIN 107 THE PLAINS OF NEBRASKA 115 THE DESERT OF WYOMING 119 FELLOW PASSENGERS 124 DESPISED RACES 129 TO THE GOLDEN GATES 133

THE OLD AND NEW PACIFIC CAPITALS

I. MONTEREY 141 II. SAN FRANCISCO 159

THE SILVERADO SQUATTERS

THE SILVERADO SQUATTERS 173 IN THE VALLEY: I. CALISTOGA 179 II. THE PETRIFIED FOREST 184 III. NAPA WINE 188 IV. THE SCOT ABROAD 194 WITH THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL: I. TO INTRODUCE MR. KELMAR 201 II. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SILVERADO 205 III. THE RETURN 215 THE ACT OF SQUATTING 221 THE HUNTER'S FAMILY 230 THE SEA-FOGS 239 THE TOLL HOUSE 245 A STARRY DRIVE 250 EPISODES IN THE STORY OF A MINE 254 TOILS AND PLEASURES 264

"VIRGINIBUS PUERISQUE" AND OTHER PAPERS

I. "VIRGINIBUS PUERISQUE": I. 281 II. 292 III. ON FALLING IN LOVE 302 IV. TRUTH OF INTERCOURSE 311 II. CRABBED AGE AND YOUTH 321 III. AN APOLOGY FOR IDLERS 334 IV. ORDERED SOUTH 345 V. AES TRIPLEX 358 VI. EL DORADO 368 VII. THE ENGLISH ADMIRALS 372 VIII. SOME PORTRAITS BY RAEBURN 385 IX. CHILD'S PLAY 394 X. WALKING TOURS 406 XI. PAN'S PIPES 415 XII. A PLEA FOR GAS LAMPS 420

THE AMATEUR EMIGRANT

_TO ROBERT ALAN MOWBRAY STEVENSON_

_Our friendship was not only founded before we were born by a community of blood, but is in itself near as old as my life. It began with our early ages, and, like a history, has been continued to the present time. Although we may not be old in the world, we are old to each other, having so long been intimates. We are now widely separated, a great sea and continent intervening; but memory, like care, mounts into iron ships and rides post behind the horseman. Neither time nor space nor enmity can conquer old affection; and as I dedicate these sketches, it is not to you only, but to all in the old country, that I send the greeting of my heart._

1879. _R. L. S._