The wilds of Patagonia

We leave Sweden: Visits to Buenos Aires and Montevideo: Arrive at the Falkland Islands: Position: Port Stanley and its Social Life: Communications: The Landscape round the Town:...

Hill Cove, a Fine Settlement: Shepherds and their Life: Ascent of Mount Adam: A Nocturnal Excursion: Saunders Island and a Page of History: Valley of the Warrah River: A Dangero...

Punta Arenas: Babylonian Confusion: Preparations: Dawson Island and the Salesian Mission Station: On the Shore of Lake Fagnano: Hardships in the Azopardo Valley: The First Guana...

Cape Froward: Jerome Channel: Patagonian Gold Fever: Along the Shores of Otway: Notes on Vegetation: Fitzroy Channel: Storm: A Solitary Hut: Traces of Indians: Excelsior and Gla...

Preparations: Captain Bordes: Our Indian Interpreter: The Magellan Skärgård: On the Evangelistas Rocks: Unknown Waters: The Patagonian Channels and their Nature: We meet the fir...

Our first Encounter with Aborigines: Appearance: Visit to an Indian Camp: The Indian Wigwam: Food: Hunting and Weapons: Social Customs: Treatment of the Women: Character: Nomadi...

Chiloé, Historical Retrospect: Ancud, the Capital: Schools: Power of the Roman Catholic Church: The Chilotes and their Life: A Ride to the Pacific Coast: Pudeto River: Primeval...

To the Centre of Chile: Corral and Valdivia: Halle’s Surveys in the Coal-mines of Arauco: Lota: Valparaiso: Santiago and its Swedish Colony: Los Andes: The Uspallata Pass and th...

The Islands of Juan Fernandez: Discovery and Position: First Impression: Robinson’s “Look-out”: Wonderful Plant World: The Chonta Palm: Marvellous Ferns: Extermination of a Uniq...

Plans for the Return South: Notes on the Discoveries in Patagonia: The Boundary Dispute between Chile and Argentina: We leave Port Montt: Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes: Lake Todo...

First Impression of the Pampas: Our First Camping-place: Norquinco: Half the Caravan Disappears!: Inquiries: Across the River Chubut: Life on the Lelej Farm: A Hearty Welcome: O...

Salt Lagoons and Abundant Bird-life: The First “Meseta”: The Cisnes Valley: Excursion to the Forest Region: Tuco-tuco and Patagonian Deer: Senguerr River: No Water: Back in Chil...

The Swamp of Rio Mayo: Meseta Chalia, an Adventurous Passage: Floating Soil and Tuco-tucos: A Dangerous Descent: The Puma: Valle Koslowsky: A Singular Telegraph Office: The Land...

The Zeballos Pass: Natural Features at Lake Pueyrredon: Troublesome Ascent: In the Tarde Valley: Across to Belgrano River: Unexpected Encounter with German Colonists: Our Sin ag...

Across the High Pampas: Crossing the Rivers Belgrano and Lista: The Troublesome Tuco-tuco Rivulet: Through the Forest to Carbon River: The Fósiles Pass, our Worst Day: Lake San...

The Swamps round Laguna Tar: An Unexpected Encounter: Pavo and the Skunk: On the shores of Lake Viedma: Leona River and a Dead Landscape: With Carlos Fuhr: The Ferry-boat on San...

Quensel’s Boat Journey in 1908: The Start and Equipment: Squally Weather: Bismarck Glacier, a Splendid Sight: Large Icebergs: With a Canvas Boat in the Ice: To the North Arm: He...

Estancia Payne: Importunate Foxes: Cerro Payne, Patagonia’s most Beautiful Mountain: Quensel’s Excursion in 1907: Cerro Donoso: A Bad Day and a Worse Night: Tame Deer: In the Pa...

Back in the Channels: The Brecknock Pass: Wonderful Glaciers: Lapataia and Lake Acigami: The Mission in Douglas Bay: The Last Yahgans: Notes on Geology: Ushuaia: Bridges’ Farm:...

We leave on Board the _Cachalote_: Severe Damage of Engines: Adrift on the High Seas: Exciting Situation: The Engines Repaired: Bad Night on the Coast: At Anchor again: Nature a...

The Swedish steamer _Princess Ingeborg_ left Gothenburg on September 10, 1907. Wind and sea favoured us, and, after a most agreeable passage, which came like a strengthening, re...

On horseback we slowly advanced along the rough, stony northern slope of the long peninsula. Several hours passed. We came close to the house of our guide, an old, taciturn Scot...

In front of us stretches the long, yellow, sandy sea-shore, with slender jetties running far out into the shallow water; in the background rises the land, with forest-clad ridge...

During the Swedish South Polar Expedition of 1901-1903 the question of surveying the great Otway and Skyring Waters also had been discussed, but we could not proceed further. At...

The scheme proposed for the next excursion was a cruise in the Patagonian Channels between the Magellan Straits and the Penas Gulf, during which we wanted to pay more particular...

A keen wind whistles through the Channels, tears the stunted trees, and now and then flings a grey shower as a contribution to the yellowish bogs. On the tops of the mountains t...

In the year 1540 a Spanish navigator for the first time sighted the coast of Chiloé, but did not get very near the island. But though the discovery was not forgotten, it was thi...

During the following weeks we got an opportunity of seeing quite new features of Chile. Hitherto we had almost exclusively travelled in parts where civilization had not reached...

Far out in the Pacific Ocean, 360 nautical miles west of Valparaiso, lies a small island, called Juan Fernandez, or Masatierra (_i.e._, Nearer Land); another 96 miles further ou...

Before we undertook the journey to the Patagonian Channels we had resolved to move our field of work to a more northerly latitude during the rest of the winter, and I have alrea...

During the first few days our march was not attended by any difficulties, as we only followed the common track, here and there visible over the pampas. On our right was the so-c...

The pampas visited during the following days showed us a new feature of Patagonian camp, the want of water and fuel, which makes the journeys from the settlements to the coast s...

During the first few hours we followed the Coyaike valley back the same way we had come, and then turned south in order to cross a ridge, separating us from the Mayo valley, whi...

On December 17 we crossed Rio Zeballos and climbed the east side of the valley. Pagels was very proud of the route he had planned, but his self-importance began to diminish when...

There are two different routes to follow from Lake Belgrano to the South: one westerly, more inviting from some points of view leading as it does through inaccessible parts of t...

It was already late in the day on January 28 when we said good-bye to Frank’s _estancia_. The peculiar basaltic peak Cerro Kachaik rising abruptly 2000 feet above the surroundin...

Thanks to the kindness of Quensel, I am able to give some details of his interesting and perilous voyagings on Lago Argentino. This big lake has the typical Andine character; it...

On February 8 Quensel went to visit Mr. Ferrier, of Estancia Payne. I had to stay till I had gone through my collections, which badly needed attention. The cook, a Malay, was ve...

In Punta Arenas everything looked the same. Times were still bad though somewhat better than in the preceding winter when paper money was worth nothing--the peso was then down t...

Again we are alone with sky and sea. The future looks bright, we lie flat on the deck in the sun enjoying our siesta, a company of five, we two, Captain Esbensen, his wife and b...