Volume II of H. H. Bancroft's History of the Northwest Coast. It is

sufficient to say here that Mr. Work was of Irish descent, the name being properly spelled Wark, and that he remained in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company continuously up to the time of his death at Victoria, B.C., in 1861. This journal comes to us through his descendants and is now deposited as a part of the archives of British Columbia, and Mr. Scholefield, the Provincial Archivist, has kindly compared this copy for publication. The journal has never before been published and does not appear to have been examined or used by Hubert Howe Bancroft, who had access to others of the Work journals in the preparation of his series of histories.

The parenthetical marks are used to designate words that are doubtful by reason of the original manuscripts being blurred or faded.

T. C. ELLIOTT.

JOURNAL.

June 21, 1825.

Drizzling rain with some weighty showers. Very little wind.

At 10 o'clock the Interior brigade, consisting of five boats carrying pieces and manned by 32 men, left Fort Vancouver under the charge of Mr. McLeod.[88] A sixth boat and 12 men under the charge of Mr. McKay[89] accompanied the Brigade as a convoy to above the Chutes.[90] The water is very high and the current strong. Encamped at 4 o'clock opposite Quick Sand River.[91] We stopped at this early hour to get some of the boats which were badly gummed. Some of the pieces were put in Mr. McKay's boat to lighten the others.

Being ordered to proceed to Spokane in charge of the outfit for that place, I accompany the brigade.

Wed.y. 22

Drizzling rain forenoon. Wind W.

Embarked at 3 o'clock and reached the Cascades at 1, had to carry at the New Portage,[92] everything was got half way across the Portage by 5 oclock when the men were employed gumming the boats. There were a good many Indians, but they were very quiet, 60 to 70 salmon were purchased from them, principally for Tobacco, at an inch per salmon.

Thursday 23

Dry weather, blowing fresh from the N. W.

Resumed carrying at 3 oclock and by 6 everything was embarked at the upper end of the portage, where we proceeded up the river under saill with a fine strong wind till 12 oclock when we put ashore a little below Cape Horn,[93] Mr. McLeod considering it too rough to proceed.

Friday 24

Dry weather a fine breeze from the N. W.

Continued our journey at a little past 3 oclock with a nice sail wind and reached the lower end of the Dalles about two and got boats & foods about half way across the portage. We were detained more than two hours at breakfast below the portage, as Mr. McKay left his boat with two men, and the pieces had to be put in the other boats. On approaching the Dalls the current was very strong and the boats being deep laden it was difficult getting them up. My boat was caught in a whirlpool and very near sunk, she was wheeled around three times before the men got her out. There are a good many Indians on the portage we reckon from 400 to 500, however they were very peaceable. Gave them a little Tobacco to smoke and bought as much salmon as we required at equally as low a price as at the Cascades.

Satd.y. 25

Clear very warm weather a little wind up the river in the morning but calm afterwards.

Recommenced carrying at 1/2 past 2 oclock, had everything across the portage[94] & embarked at 6, and were across the Chutes by 11. The portage at the Chutes was short on account of the high water. Encamped at 6 in the evening a little below Day's River,[95] to gum the boats. We lost nearly 2 hours at breakfast below the Chutes. We reckoned 150 to 200 Indians at the Chutes, they were very quiet. Gave them to smoke and also about an inch of Tobacco each when we were coming off. Mr. McKay & Mr. Douglas,[96] with the convoy men left us at the upper end of the Chutes to return to Fort Vancouver.

Sunday 26

Clear weather little breeze of wind from the N. W. in the morning and evening, but calm and very warm in the middle of the day.

Continued our journey a little past 3 oclock and encamped at 7 in the evening. Were detained 2 hours gumming the boats,--had the sails up while the wind lasted in the morning and evening. A good many Indians along the river.

Monday 27.

Clear, a fine breeze up the River in the morning but calm and insufferably warm afterwards.

Embarked a little before 3 oclock, passed the lower end of the Big Island[97] at 1/2 past 4 and encamped at 6 to gum one of the boats, we were also detained 1-1/2 hours in the day gumming.

Tuesday 28

Clear very warm weather, a little breeze of wind down the river which prevented the heat from being so oppressive as yesterday.

Continued our route before 3 o'clock and encamped late a little above the Grand Rapid.[98] In ascending a piece of strong current doubling a point in the evening, two of the boats got aground and sustained some injury, one of them put ashore & gummed, the other went on to the encampment, & had not time to repair. Traded some beaver from the Indians along the River.

Wed.y. 29

Clear weather and notwithstanding there was a nice breeze down the river the heat was oppressive.

We were detained gumming the boat till hear 5 o'clock when we embarked and proceeded to Fort Nez Perces[99] where we remained at 12 o'clock and had boats immediately unloaded, and the cargoes examined. These were landed here from the five boats independent of the gentlemen and mens private baggage 262 pieces, viz. (Laments) boat Mr. McLeod passenger 47 pieces.--Ignace's boat J. Work passenger 52 pieces.--P. La (Course's?) boat, Mr. Dease passenger 53 pieces.--Grosse (Chalon's?) boat 55 pieces and Thomas Tagouche's boat 55 pieces.

Thursday 30th.

Notwithstanding it blew strong from the N. W. the heat was oppressive, the sand, and wood about the fort were absolutely burning. In the evening there was a great deal of thunder and lightening with heavy squalls of wind and a few drops of rain, the wind sometimes quite hot.

Mr. McLeod occupied the greater part of this day separating the pieces belonging to the different posts.

July 1825 Friday 1

Blowing strong from the N. W.

A party having to make a trip up the South branch[100] to trade horses, (150 if possible,) the forenoon was occupied in making up an assortment of goods for that purpose and a 1/2 past 1 o'clock Mr. Dease accompanied by Mr. Dears,[101] myself and 28 men, embarked in two boats and proceeded to a little up the South branch where we encamped for the night.--Several Indians were about the entrance of the river, purchased a few salmon from them, mostly small ones at about 2 inches of tobacco each.--Our boats are very light laden, and the men well armed.

Mr. McLeod & 10 men remain at the Fort.

Satd.y. 2

Clear, and notwithstanding a pleasant breeze from the N. W., very warm.

Embarked at 3 oclock and pursued our journey up the river till past 6 when we encamped for the night. Made a good days march, as the men worked constant and very hard.--The current was uniformly very strong, and the water high, though it has fallen at least 1-1/2 or 2 feet from its greatest height this season.--The shores are generally high, some places steep rocks, at others undulating hills, the vegetation on which seems to be burnt up with the heat and has a barren appearance. Here and there along the river, bushes and grass appear green, having not been deprived of moisture.

Passed several Indian lodges and traded 42 fresh and 9 dry salmon for 1-1/2 yards of Tobacco. The salmon are all of a small size.

Sunday 3

Clear excessive warm weather though there was a little breeze of wind from the N. W. the heat was oppressive.

Continued our journey at 3 clock and encamped at the Flag River[102] at 2. There are a few lodges of Indians here who have some horses two of which were purchased from them at 15 skins each. these are the first horses we have seen in this river.

The general appearance of the river the same as yesterday, the shores high and clearer. The general course of the river from its entrance to this place may be about N. E., a little above its entrance it takes a considerable turn to the Eastward and thus bends back to the Westward a little below the Flag River.--From this place to Spokane[103] is about 1-1/2 days march on horseback. Nez Perces is about the same distance.

Monday 4

Clear very warm weather, the heat was suffocating.

Expecting that the Indians would bring some more horses to trade we delayed embarking till 8 oclock when we proceeded up the river a short distance where we put ashore at an Indian lodge and bought a horse, which detained us a considerable time.--Two men rode the horses along shore--made but a short days march. The heat and plenty of musquitos which were very troublesome, allowed us to have but little sleep last night. Encamped past 6 oclock.

The current still very strong, the general course of the river from a little above Flag River a little more to the Eastward. Not many Indians on the river and but few horses to be seen.

Tuesday 5

Clear a good breeze of wind up teh river which made the heat more supportable than these days past.--The current very strong, course of the river nearly E., the shores high with some times a low point, all parched up with the excessive heat, here there some bushes that are green are to be seen along the shores and in the little valleys or creeks.

Embarked at 3 oclock and encamped a little below the La Monte. Made a very short days march as we delayed a good deal along the river at Indian lodges, bought 3 young horses at 18 skins each.

The Indians inform us that a large party went off to Spokane yesterday, and that the Flat Heads and (Pendius?)[104] have been with the Indians above and bought a number of horses from them.

Wed.y. 6

Stormy in the night and blowing fresh all day, Wind N. W.

In order to get some salmon from the Indians, delayed embarking till 8 oclock when we proceeded up the river, to La Monte[105] where we encamped at 10--This is a place of rendezvouse for the Indians but only one lodge is here at present, the others are all off in the plains digging camass. Some Indians were sent off with Tobacco for the Natives to smoke & to apprise them that we were here & would remain a few days to purchase horses from them, and that we would then proceed to the Forks[106] so that such of the Indians as are in that neighborhood may be there to meet us.

Thursday 7

Cloudy blowing fresh from the N. W.--pleasant cool weather.

Several Indians of different tribes arrived at our camp from whom ten horses were traded, 15 to 18 skins each. The most of these horses are young not more than 3 years old and some of them very small. It would have been desirable to get ones of larger size, but the great number required renders it necessary to take such as can be got and not be too choice.

Friday 8

Weather as yesterday.

Trade going on very slowly. A few Indians visited the camp, but only 6 horses were traded one of which was a wild one and was immediately killed for the people. The Natives seem not eager to part with their horses.--Generally young small ones are offered for sale, yet some of those purchased today are good stout horses.--The articles generally paid for a horse are a blanket, 3 pt, 6 skins, 4 or 5 skins, 1 yd. each of green beads, a few skins of ammunition, a skin of Tobacco, a knife, and sometimes, Buttons and Rings a skin or two.

Satd.y. 9

Cloudy Warm weather, Wind variable, not blowing so much as these days past.

A few more Indians visited us but only 4 horses were traded & two of these are young ones not broke in. We learn from the Ind.s. that the natives above are collecting on the River to meet us.

The Indians at our camp occupy the most of their time gambling. The River is falling very fast, the water is lowered four to 5 feet perpendicular since it has been at its height this season.

Sunday 10

Though a fresh breeze from the Eastward the weather was very warm and sultry.

In expectation that the Indians would trade some more horses we delayed embarking till one oclock when we proceeded up the River, seeing that nothing further was to be done. Stopped at the Indian lodges as we passed and bought two unbroken in young horses one of which a beautiful animal, lept so when he was haltered & the man not managing him properly that he tumbled on his head & broke his neck.

The current continues very strong the course of the river from E. to S. E. The appearance of the country continues much the same, the bank very high & mostly rocky, the smooth summits & sides of the hills clothed with dry grass, burnt up with the heat, here and there along the water edge and in some of the deep valleys or coves tufts of willow and poplars, and a few bushes of other kinds. Though the hills and valleys, except on the faces of the steep rocks are well clothed with vegetation nearly dried up, the country has altogether a barren appearance.

The Indians live (in) sort of houses or lodges constructed of drift wood split & set on end, they are generally high and very large and inhabited by a great many Indians. I counted upwards of fifty at one house the dimensions of which were 40 yards long and 10 wide. These houses are generally high and flat roofed, the one side is occupied by the inhabitants who sit and sleep on the ground, and the other side is appropriated for drying fish which are hung up generally in two tiers the one above the other the lower ones so near the ground that one has to stoop to get under them.--The air has a free circulation through these habitations from the openness of their walls, which makes them cool & comfortable when there is the least air of wind, but in case of rain, from the openness of the roof, very little would be excluded. However, this is an article that seldom troubles them.

The Natives along the River now are generally employed curing salmon and collecting camass.

Monday 11

Cloudy but occasionally very warm Wind Easterly.

Waiting till the Indians would bring us some horses to trade deterred us from embarking till 8 clock when seeing that only one horse could be traded, we proceeded up the river and as usual stopped to smoke at the most of the lodges which we passed which made our progress very slow, however only one horse was purchased till we encamped in the evening when four more were traded, making in all six today.

The appearance of the River and country much the same as yesterday. The course from E. to S. E. The hills along shore appear less elevated towards evening. The Indians near whom we are encamped offered a sturgeon for sale, which shows that these fish ascend this high.

Tuesday 12

Cloudy blowing fresh from the Westward.

The Indians traded two more Horses which detained us till after breakfast when we proceeded up the River till 11 oclock when we encamped a little below the Forks at the lodge of an Ind.[107] called Charly where a good many Indians are expected to assemble. About 70 men collected to smoke in the course of the afternoon. Two horses were traded from them which makes 4 today.

Charly is considered to have a good deal of influence among the natives. A present was therefore made him and he afterward harangued the Indians from which good effects are expected tomorrow.

Wed.y. 13

Though cloudy part of the day, the weather was very warm and sultry.

A brisk trade of horses commenced in the morning and 15 were purchased during the day, the greater part of which were bought before breakfast. They are much finer horses and the prices rather lower than those procurred below.--Horses are more numerous and much better here than in the lower part of the river.--There were not so many Indians with us today as yesterday, but they had more horses. The Indians who visit us are of four different tribes, Chapoples[108] or Nezperces, Pelooshis,[109] Carooris and Wallawallas. They are very peaceable but a good deal of Tobacco is required to keep them smoking.--They amuse themselves gambling in the evening they had a horse race.

In the course of the day a message was received from some Indians further up the river, requesting us to go to their place, and more horses would be procured. It seems a kind of jealousy exists among the natives and the one party does not wish to sell their horses at the camp of the other, or that they wish to have the honour of being visited at their own camp.

Thursd.y. 14

Very little Wind, excessively warm, where we are encamped on the stony sandy beach we are literally next to be roasted.

The trade did not go on so briskly as yesterday, only 8 horses were bought, one of which was an unbroken in lame mare to kill, as she was fit for nothing else.

Friday 15

Sometimes a little breeze of wind from the S. E. yet it was clear and so sultry that the heat was oppresive.

Embarked at half past 5 oclock proceeded up the river and in 2 hours arrived at the Forks[110] and encamped on the E. side of the North branch where a few Indians are encamped shortly after we arrived about 40 of them with the old chief Cut Nose at their head visited us in form, smoked, and were presented with about 3 inches of tobacco each. A trade of horses was immediately commenced and 8 very good ones were soon bought from them, though these people have plenty of horses yet they say they have none, they mean probably that they can spare. This is not Cut Nose's camp, it is farther up this branch.

In the afternoon a party of upwards of 100 men and a good many women on horseback with the son of broken or cut arm, as chief at their head, arrived down the S. branch, the Chief immediately on his arrival presented a horse to Mr. Dease, and received a gun, 6 yds. of Beads & Tobacco and ammunition 27 skins as a present in return. After smoaking and getting about 3 Inches of Tobacco for each of his people, a trade for horses was opened and 5 very good ones were soon bought which with the one presented and the eight bought in the forenoon make 14 that have been procured to day. These are the best horses we have got yet, they are 18 to 20 skins each.

There is a little short of 200 Indians about our camp now, several of those from below accompany us as we advance up, and those encamped here with the band that arrived from the S. branch make about the above number. They are very quiet and peaceable for so far.

The country about the Forks is flatter and the hills not so abrupt as farther down. The South branch[111] falls in from the Southward, and the North one from the S. E. the waters of these latter are quite clear, while those of the other are white and muddy the North branch seems not so large as the other, nor does not discharge such a body of water. It may be about 250 to 300 yards wide.

Charlie the chief who accompanied us from our last encampment crossed the river with a horse, and in swimming back either was seized or pretended to be seized with a cramp & called out for assistance. Some of the Indians brought him ashore, where he became very ill and got little better, though at his own request he got 2 or 3 drams, untill evening when he thought he would be the better of an airing and got the men to paddle him in a boat up and down the river and sing at the same time, which must considerably contribute, no doubt, to the recovery of his health.--This man may have some influence among the Indians at least to do injury, but he is undoubtedly an artful knave.

Saturday 16

Cloudy, a storm of thunder with squalls of wind from the Westward and a little rain in the afternoon, last night there was a violent storm of thunder & a great deal of lightening, with squalls of wind and some rain.

A Brisk trade commenced in the morning and 19 horses were bought during the day, they are generally good ones and cost mostly 20 skins each.

At noon (Tawerishewa) arrived at the head of a troup of 64 men and several women with plenty of horses from up the North branch. After smoaking and each of his people being presented with a piece of Tobacco he presented a fine horses to Mr. Dease and received a present of different articles to the amount of 32 skins in return.--The other chief now here seems not to be fond of this man on account of his being a doctor or medicine chief.

On account of our articles of trade falling short we will not be able to answer these people's expectations in the way of Trade.

Sunday 17

Cloudy, gusts of wind from the Westward. A heavy thunder storm with strong wind and same rain in the afternoon.

Commenced trading after breakfast & bought horses during the day, four horses were presented during the day by principal men of (Tawerishewa's) band, but they were dearer than if they had been traded on account of the quantity of articles that had to be presented in return. The most of the horses purchased today are very fine ones and cost mostly 20 skins each.

Our articles of trade got short or we would have got more horses. Green Beads, Tobacco and blankets are entirely gone, several blankets were borrowed from the men. The last band of Indians that arrived were considerably disappointed by these articles being nearly gone when they came.

There are about our camp near 250 or 300 Indians. they are very quiet and give us very little trouble, they occasionally get a little tobacco to smoak. They pass the greater part of their time gambling, horseracing & foot racing.

We have traded 112 horses, 5 of which have been killed. A fine young white one was drowned crossing the river today.

Monday 18

Cloudy pleasant weather not too warm. Wind Westerly.

Our trade being finished and everything ready, we took leave of our friendly Indians and I and six men and an Indian Charlie as a guide, set out with 106 horses across land to Spokane at 1/2 past 8 o'clock. two of the horses which were traded had got lame and were not able to start.--We were detained two hours waiting for Charlie who delayed after us to make some arrangements with his family. On account of this delay and not being able to drive quick as one of the finest horses in the band (Mr. Dease's) being lame which I did not perceive till after we were off, we made but a short days' march.

We passed through a fine country the course from N. to N. W. On leaving the river ranges of high hills had to be ascended[112], the country then was not level but a continual succession of little rising hills or hummocks and valleys destitute of trees or bushes except along the margins of little brooks, but pretty well clothed with grass and other plants though rather dried and parched, in some of the valleys along little rivers there are a few trees and bushes besides different plants of an uncommonly luxuriant growth.

A Ridge[113] of high land runs along at a short distance to the Eastward, thinly wooded, close to a point of this wooded land is a beautiful situation at a litle spring of water. We encamped in the evening at about five oclock having to wait for one of the men who remained behind with the lame horse.--Though the country was dry yet water was to be found at short intervals the most of the day.

Five Indians with 8 horses also on the way to Spokane joined us in the day & kept company with us. In the evening we passed a party of women with a number of horses going off to the plains to collect horses.

My object in accompanying the horses besides seeing them taken care of principally is to visit Spokane, see how affairs stand there and consult with Mr. Birnie as to the practicability of getting all the property, etc., removed at once to the Kettle Falls so that the whole may be there by the time the boats arrive, by which means the trading parties to the Flat Heads and Kootenais could be sent off immediately and meet the Indians at a proper season or at least as early as possible, while the remainder of the people, when two establishments are not to be kept up, could be advantageously employed at the building of the new establishment. This is the only plan which will enable us to accomplish the objects of removing to the new Fort and attending their trading excursions at this advanced season without material injury to the trade. In order to enable us to put the above plan in execution I got Mr. Dease prevailed upon to supply Spokane with 11 Pack Horses which are certainly very few considering that there are only eight at Spokane, and there is little prospect of being able to hire any from the Indians as removing the Fort is likely to be disagreeable to them.--I have also brought two men intended to be left at Spokane to assist. I also wished much that Mr. Dears should accompany me for the same purpose, so that he might proceed to the Kettle Falls & remain in charge of the property with one man while the transportation of the property was going on, but Mr. Dease would not consent to his coming lest Mr. McLeod would not be satisfied, as he would not have any one to assist him in taking up the boats from Wallawalla to Okanogan. He certainly needed no assistance to conduct these boats well manned, when little danger is to be apprehended from the Indians.--I represented these things to Mr. Dease but it had no effect. I also pointed out the inadequacy of the number of horses, but as he had orders to procure a certain number for New Caledonia and Thompson's River, and no mention made of any to Spokane, 11 besides 2 saddle horses were all he could give, after completing the numbers for the other places, and depending on his own Fort for 60 for the Snake Country.

In case the above plans are found to be practicable I intend to proceed on to Okanogan to receive the Spokane and Rocky Mountain outfits and accompany the boats to the Kettle Falls.

One or two more men were also requested but they could not be granted lest Mr. McLeod would have too few to take up three boats, though there are 23 for that purpose, of which number 2 certainly might have been spared.

Tuesday 19

Cloudy pleasant weather. Wind Westerly.

Proceeded on our journey at an early hour but in consequence of having to delay & drive generally very slow waiting for the lame horse, we made but a short days march and encamped late in the evening at a small River or rather sort of swamp. In the morning we crossed the Flag River.--The lame horse gave up in the afternoon and with reluctance I was obliged to leave him at a spring in a little valley with plenty of grass about it. he seems to be otherwise diseased besides the lameness, his near foreleg is swelled, the outerfilm of the skin and hair is come off his breast in the shape of a horses foot, where probably he has received a blow, before leaving him Charlie scarified his foot, he will be sent for if possible.

The country through which we passed today has much the same appearance as that passed yesterday and the course nearly the same. Though the horses have not been driven hard yet some of them are getting fatigued, many of them are getting very lean.--Last night as the night before the horses were watched all night by 3 men at a time.

Wed.y. 20

Weather cloudy, but sultry and oppressively warm by turns. These two nights past were very cold which is a great change from the excessive heat experienced some time back. This is probably owing to our being in the vicinity of the high land.

Set out on our journey early in the morning and got out of the plains into the woods about 1/2 past 7 oclock. At 4 oclock I left 4 of the men (C. Gregoire.) (A. Laparde.) (I. Levant) and (J. Maria) at the fork[114] of the road that branches off to Okanogan, and proceeded to Spokane with 2 men and 16 horses, 12 for this post and 4 with which I am to go to Okanogan. One of them knocked up by the way & had to be left to be sent for tomorrow. As the horses were fatigued I ordered the men to encamp and allow the horses the evening to rest, and to march at a very slow rate for the future. I left them with 89 horses but one of them was so much jaded that it could not be expected to be able to march. I therefore ordered it to be left and it would be sent for tomorrow.--Arrived at Spokane[115] at 7 oclock and found Mr. Birnie and his people all well. The country through which we passed today as we advanced towards the woods and in the woods was in places very stony which was not often the case these past days. Water was also scarcer than hitherto.

Thursd.y. 21

Clear very warm weather.

Employed this day examining the property to be transported to the Kettle Falls and find that the whole amounts to 254 pieces including trading goods, provisions, stores & sundries. Mr. Birnie has been actively & diligently employed during the summer, & has almost the whole tied up and ready to put on horseback.--Had Mr. Dears been permitted to accompany me I could have returned to Okanogan with an Indian, and the transportation of the property might have commenced immediately as Mr. Dears with one man could have remained in charge of the property at Kettle falls. But now as the horses which I brought with me must be returned to Okanogan and it being necessary that I should be at that place to receive the goods and to accompany the boats up, and no one being here to spare to take charge of the goods at the Kettle falls, and leave enough to remain here with Mr. Birnie and attend to the horses on the voyage, the conveying the property must be deferred until Mr. Dease and some men can be sent from Okanogan and the first trip will be at the Kettle Falls by the time the boats arrive.--From the dislike the Indians have to the removal of the Fort, of which they have heard some vague reports, which they seem unwilling to believe, there is reason to apprehend that no assistance will be received from them in the horse way which will very much retard our business, as the number of horses which we have, about 34, will be a long time of conveying all these pieces.

Mr. Birnie for so far has been pretty successful in the trade of provisions, appichimens & saddls, and about a dozen of horses the latter at a much cheaper rate than those purchased in the Nezperces River. But the returns in furs are far short of those of last year at this season the Indians from different places have done very little.--The garden looks remarkably well, the potatoes are bigger than eggs. Six kegs which were sowed at the Kettle Falls also looked well the last time people were there they have been hoed twice.

Paid the Indian Charlie who accompanied us with the horses 20 skins which he was promised more than he received at the Forks, and also made him a present of a Buffalo Robe, he has promised to bring the horse to the Fort. In case any other Indian trapper (should happen) to take him off he is the only one that would be likely to recover him. I intended to have sent a man & an Indian for this horse immediately but Mr. Birnie doubts that it would not be safe as a good many straggling Nezperces Indians are going & coming who might probably pillage them.

On my arrivel last night Mr. Birnie handed me a note from Governor Simpson of which the following is a copy.

Columbia Lake 16th Apl. 1825.

Dear Sir

The Dr. will no doubt have informed you of the reasons that induced me to alter your destination for this season and I trust the change will be agreeable to you.--

I have lined out the site of a new establishment[116] at the Kettle Falls and wish you to commence building and transporting the property from Spokane as early as possible. Mr. Birnie has been directed to plant about 5 kegs of potatoes--You will be so good as (to) take great care of them the produce to be reserved for seed, not eat, as next spring I expect that from 30 to 40 Bushels will be planted.--Pray let every possible exertion be used to buy up an abundant stock of Fish and other Provisions counrty Produce, as no imported provisions can in future be forwarded from the coast.--If you can dispense with the service of Mr. Dears in the course of the summer I wish him to be sent with a couple of Indians to examine the Flat Heads River[117] as far as the Ponderoy Camps at the Camass plain and if Navigable you will be so good as (to) forward the outfit of that Post by water instead of land carriage which will save a great expense in horse hire, etc.--The Cantany[118] River we know to be navigable; it is not, therefore, necessary to examine it, but you will likewise forward the outfit for the Post of that name by water--A few long Portages must not interfere with this plan as the benefits to be derived from the change will more than counterbalance the additional trouble and personal labour it may give our people.--If this plan is found to answer of which I have not the smallest doubt we shall be perfectly independent of the Indians in regard to horses which will be a great saving of property, and thereby we shall also avoid the chance of quarrels with the natives in regard to horse thieving as we shall have few or none to tempt them.--Mr. Dears appears to be a self-sufficient forward young man, he must not, however question or dispute your authority, if he does let me know it, in the meantime show him this paragraph if necessary.--With Mr. Birnie you will have no difficulty, he is unassuming active and interested.--Pray use every exertion to trade horses for Thompson's River and let them be sent in the fall so as to be forwarded from Okanogan to New Caledonia with all the pack saddles and appichimens that can be collected.

The cedar canoes brought down this season from Spokane will be the proper craft for the Cootanies & Flat Head Rivers.

The Spokans will not be pleased at the removal of the Fort but you must (?) the chiefs with a few presents besides fair words.

Do me the favour to collect[119] all the seeds plants Birds and quadrupids & mice & rats you can and let them be forwarded by the ship of next season to N. (Gosny) Esqur. care of Wm. Smith Esqr. Secty. H. B. Cmy., London.

Wishing a pleasant & prosperous season. I remain Dear Sir Your most obd. servant, (Signed) Geo. Simpson.

Friday 22nd.

Cloudy, but sultry warm weather.

I deferred setting out for Okanogan, as I intended, in order to allow the horses which are fatigued another days' rest, and there still being plenty of time to reach that place before the boats from the Wallawalla: something more could also be done here. In the course of the day the business of removing the Fort was broached to the Chiefs and notice given them that they would be requested to lend some assistance in horses. They gave no decisive answer on the subject but seemed to take it better than was expected. It was intimated that the Fort would be left in their charge and that probably instructions might be received in the fall for some people to reside at Spokane with them still. They seem to swallow this notwithstanding its improbability.--Very few of them are now about the Fort the most of them being a short distance below it at a fishing barrier where they are taking 7 or 800 salmon per day.

Satd'y. 23

Cloudy blowing strong from the Westward.

At 1/2 past 9 o'clock set out from Spokane for Okanogan accompanied by a man and an Indian as a guide with seven horses, that is the 4 that belong to Okanogan, & 3 to return to Spokane with some people.--At 12 oclock we got clear of the woods & into the plains, except a short time that we stopped to allow the horses to feed. We drove on at a round pace all day and encamped at 1/2 past 7 oclock at a little pool of bad water, some distance from the Key encampment. The clouds of dust raised by the wind which was right ahead made riding very disagreeable as we were like to be choaked & blinded. Our guide did not keep the road but cut from place to place through the plains.--Our course might be from N. W. to W. Ridges of mountains or highlands run along at no great distance to the Northward, thinly clothed with wood, the country through which we passed though not (even) could not be called hilly but swelling into little knowls, covered with a thin coat of dry vegetables and generally of a barren & scorched appearance, except some little valleys where some few bushes & green vegetables are produced in consequence of there being water in the place or some moisture in the ground.--The road was in some places good, but in others very stony. Nothing to be seen to the S. E. but extensive plains bounded by the horison.

Sunday 24

Weather as yesterday.

Continued our route at 4 oclock and arrived[120] on the opposite side of the River at Okanagan at 1/2 past 7 after a smart days ride, and our horses much fatigued, some of them nearly knocked up, this was owing to their being allowed to drink too much water. If indulged in water while on the route they ought never to be allowed to take more than a mouthful or two.--

The appearance of the country course etc were much the same as yesterday except that we passed through a point of woods, in the morning we passed along the banks of the Columbia at the Lampoile[121] River, and before noon crossed the Grand Coolley. Some of the mountains to the Northward were topped with snow.

The men whom I left to proceed with the horses on the 20th arrived here about noon with the whole band but one which they lost a little more than a days march from this place.--It is a small horse 2 yrs. old, and does not seem well.

Mondy 25

Cloudy blowing fresh from the Northward.

Went with the men for the purpose (of) bringing the horses across the River, but as it was blowing fresh and several of the horses very lean, it was deemed advisable to let them remain untill another occasion.

Tuesday 26

Clear warm weather.

Brought the horses[122] across from the other side of the River all safe.

A little past noon an Indian arrived from Spokane with a note from Mr. Birnie and a packet which had recently reached that place from Mr. Ogden[123] dated East branch of the Missourie 10th July. In consequence of the former coming out at the Flat Heads, the Snake business would be so much involved with that of Spokane that I deemed it my duty to open the dispatch which I am sorry to find contains intelligence of a disagreeable nature. A series of misfortunes have attended the party from shortly after their departure on the 24th may they fell in with a party of Americans when 23 of the former deserted, two of this party were killed one by the Indians and one by accident and the remainder of the party are now coming out by the Flat Heads.

This occurrence will entirely change all our plans at Spokane, respecting moving the Fort, as all our time will be occupied in transporting the Snake outfit from Fort Nezperces to Spokane if the Snake country business is carried on.--It is indispensably necessary that these despatches should be sent to Fort Vancouver as soon as possible, they must be sent either direct to Fort Nezperces from this place or round by Spokane, by the former rout they will reach Nezperces in four days, by the latter they will require six.--I shall wait for Mr. McLeod's arrival when I expect he will furnish a man to accompany Mr. Dears whom I intend to send for the more safe conveyance of the packet, and who can return accompanied by an Indian direct from Wallawalla to Spokane, with all the despatches remaining at that place for Mr. Ogden, by this route he will reach Spokane as soon as I will with the boats and the papers can be forwarded by the Trading party to the Flat Heads & thence to Mr. Ogden by his men who are to come in with their furs. Mr. McLeods man LaPrade[124] who passed in the spring and who knows the road from this place to Nezperces can return accompanied by an Indian and be back at Okanogan in 8 days or if deemed safe he could come round by Spokane which would occupy 2 or 3 days longer. If this plan meets Mr. McLeod's approbation it will be the most expeditious. The route by Spokane will answer equally well, but it will occupy at least 2 or three days longer to reach Nezperces.

Wed.y. 27

Warm sultry weather.

Sent off two of the men E. Gregoire and J. Moreau to seek the horse which they lost by the way coming.--La Prade is retained at the Fort to accompany Mr. Dears to Nezperces, in case Mr. McLeod allows him to go.

Thursd.y. 28.

Cloudy sultry weather.

Mr McLeod arrived with the boats 3 in number at 9 oclock in 8 days or rather on the 8th day from Nezperces, the day was occupied separating the cargoes, when I made out an a/c of the pieces which are to be taken to Spokane Forks.[125]--Some pieces belonging to Nezperces and the Snake expedition, it is thought advisable to take to Spokane, for the Nezperces pieces Mr. Dease is to take an equal number of the same description from the Snake outfit at his place. By taking these pieces to Spokane it will save the carriage across land from Nezperces.

Friday 29th.

Sultry warm weather.

This day was employed preparing despatches for the sea which are to accompany Mr. Ogdens letters which are to be sent off tomorrow. I expected that Mr McLeod would have spared a man to accompany Mr Dears to Wallawalla, but he cannot. I therefore thought he would have had to go round by Spokane, but on consulting Robbie Doo[126] the Indian who came with me, he engages to take him from here to Wallawalla though he never was that road, this will save the horses, and two or three days time. Mr Dears is to return straight to Spokane where I expect he will arive as soon as men with the boats, & have all Mr. Ogdens (documents) with him.

Though we have not more than full cargoes for two boats and 18 men to work them to the Forks, yet as the road is very (bad) and Mr. McLeod's and Mr. Ross's[127] families to accompany us it is the guide's opinion that we will get on safer and more expeditiously by taking three boats, 6 men per boat. Three are therefore to be taken.

Satd.y. 30

Clear warm weather.

Left Okanogan with 3 boats at 8 oclock and encamped at 6 in the evening to gum one of the boats which was leaking though she had been gummed at the fort. The road was tolerable though the current was very strong till afternoon, they got on without the poles but afterwards the boats had to be towed the greater part of the way with lines, sometimes the united strength of the two crews was required to take up one boat. The water is high though it has fallen greatly.

Mr Dears & the Indian also set out in the morning for Wallawalla. The Indian who brought Mr. Ogdens letters from Spokane, also returned to that place, with a letter to Mr Birnie requesting him to send horses to meet me at the Forks to take the property up to Spokane, as we know not whether the Fort can be removed this year untill answers are received from the sea[128] to our letters.

Sunday 31st.

Clear warm weather.

Embarked before 4 oclock this morning and reached the lower end of the dalls[129] at 9 oclock and got over there at 1, and encamped at half past 6 in the evening, having made a better days march than the common. In the evening we got on a little with the poles, but all the rest of the day the tow line had to be used, at the dalls it was very bad, the men had to pass the line over high projecting rocks where had they missed a foot they would have been killed. At the upper end of the dalls the boat had to be lightened and the one half of their cargoes carried a piece, as the boats could not b dragged up with the cargo all in.

August, 1825.

Mond.y. 1

Clear very warm.

Embarked at 3 oclock and put ashore at 5 to wait for Mr McLeod who was to come across land with his family to embark for the mountains, and with some papers which he had not finished when he left the Fort, and were delayed till 3 oclock, when we proceeded on our journey and encamped at 1/2 past 6.

Tuesday 2nd.

Cloudy mild weather.

Continued our route at 3 oclock and put ashore near 7 having made a very good days work.--

Wed.y 3

Cloudy weather.

Embarked at 3 oclock passed the (Lampoile) River at 9 where we breakfasted and traded a few pieces of dry salmon from the Indians, and encamped past 6 oclock. A good days march. Tho' our boats are only a little more than 2/3 loaded yet they are a good deal embarrassed, as we have four women and ten children passengers.

Thursday 4

Cloudy and very warm afternoon, a great deal of thunder & lightening and some rain in the night.

Embarked past 3 oclock and arrived at Spokane Forks at 8. The road this morning was very bad being continual rapids. These two days past, it was not so bad as the tow line had only to be used at some strong points. The boats were immediately discharged, at 10 oclock 3 men arrived with the horses horses from Spokane with a letter from Mr. Birnie. It appears that they had some trouble at Spokane with the Indians. The scoundrel Charlie with some others was making a disturbance, about removing the Fort.

Busily employed the after part of the day, distributing the property among the men who are divided into two pairs and are to take a brigade of horses each two, and also laying out the goods for Rocky Mountain that are to go to Kettle falls, and some boxes of tools for the building at Kettle Falls.--The two boats that are to remain are also laid up and some guns, 26 pieces, which was sent from Spokane, burried in the sand, till it be sent below in the fall.--

Sent a little Tobacco to the old chief at the Sampoile bourne and a message that some salmon were wanted for the people, he brought twenty fresh ones in the afternoon, which was abundance for the people. Some dry ones were also traded.

Frid.y 5.

At an early hour, had the horses assembled and divided into brigades, loaded and set off by 8 oclock and encamped at 1 at the bottom of the big hill which is a good days march. We have altogether 35 horses loaded, including baggage, etc. Left the guide P. L. Etang preparing to start with the boat and cargo destined for the R Mountains, to the Kettle Falls, where he is to remain until the 20th of next month, he has 7 men with him, who are to be employed preparing timber and, if they have time, building a store as a beginning to the new establishment,[130], tools are sent with him for the purpose.--Intend sending Mr. Dears who I expect is arrived nearly at Spokane by this time, to Superintend the people, and L. La Bentie who is a carpenter to assist & direct in the building. As there is a great demand for provisions, the salmon can be loaded at the same time, for which purpose and to feed the people, an assortment of goods is sent up.

Saturday 6

Cloudy, blowing fresh from the Westward.

Proceeded on our journey at 4 oclock and halted to let the horses rest & feed at 10 and again resumed our journey at three and encamped for the night before 6 at camp at Cariboo (?) having made a long days march, the horses are tired.

The cords which fastened a load of traps gave way and the cases fell, the horse took fright and ran off with the load hanging to him, and so lamed one of his shoulders and leg that that he is disabled from carrying his load & scarcely fit to walk.--An Oil cloth which one of the men Gros Carlo had in charge was also lost through negligence. This is a serious loss as there in none to replace it and all we had were required. I sent notice among the Indians to seek it & if found to bring it to the Fort & they would be paid for their trouble.

Sunday 7

Mild warm weather.

Resumed our journey at a little past 4 oclock and by 10 all the brigades had arrived at the Spokane Fort and delivered in the cargoes. The horses were immediately sent across the River to graze and a man to take care of them.--

Mr. Birnie was like to have some trouble with som of the Indians shortly after my departure to Okanagan. Charlie, according to inteligence received by Mr. B., with a few other Nezperces had laid a plan to cut off the fort, but as this is grounded on report and as the Inds are very prone to belie each other, there is no knowing what degree of reliance to place on it. Charlie is doubtly a notorious scoundrel, when he heard of the Fort going to be abandoned he was much displeased and declared among the Indians that had he known of it not a horse would have been got in the Nezperces River if in his power to prevent it.--The trade of furs has been a little better last month than the preceding ones, but the whole returns are far short of this time last year.--In provisions the trade is still increasing, there are now between 4 and 5000 pieces of salmon in store, besides roots. Saving so much provisions is a fortunate circumstance as unfortunately almost the whole of the dry meat is found to be so completely spoiled and damaged that it is useless.--

Mr. Dears contrary to my expectations is not yet arrived, 9 days are now elapsed since he left Okanagan for Wallawalla, which is a day later than I had calculated on his being able to reach this place. Probably something may have occurred to prevent him from arriving on the day expected.

Monday 8

Cloudy warm weather

Employed opening & examining the outfit--and making preparations by packing up the outfit for the Flat Heads.

Mr. Dears and the Indians arrived at noon from Wallawalla with despatches from that place, they were five days coming and had been four days going from Okanagan to Wallawalla. however he got through safe.

Tuesday 9th

Cloudy warm weather.

At 10 oclock sent off 11 men with 10 horses loaded with an assortment of trading articles for the Flat Heads and a supply of some articles required by Mr. Ogden. I intend following them tomorrow accompanied by the old Flat Head chief who has passed the summer here & is now going to his friends, & another Indian who is to bring back the horses. I was prevented from accompanying the people today by having some papers to arrange. After the people had been off some time one of them returned for anothr horse in stead of one that had thrown his load and ran off from them.

Wed.y. 10

Clear fine weather.

At 9 oclock I set out after the people accompanied by the old Flat Head chief and another Indian. Near 6 oclock we came up with the party encamped at the little Lake[131] in the woods.--Mr McDonald's[132] horse which the old chief rode had been unwell before he left the fort though we did not know it, and was so knocked up that we had to leave him at the little River at this end of the Coer de Alan plains where we arrived before 3 oclock which (is) a little more than 6 hours though we stopped to smoke by the way & seldom went past a trot.

Left Mr Dears preparing to go off to the Kettle Falls with L. La Bontie to to go on with the buildings at that place.

Thursday 11

Showery in the morning, fair afterwards with strong Westerly Wind.

Set out at 4 oclock and arrived at the Flat Head River[133] at noon & immediately commenced gumming the canoes which occupied the whole afternoon and is not yet entirely completed. One of the canoes was taken across the River by the Indians & we had to send across for it. The Indians had also taken nearly all the poles and paddles which will cause us a loss of time and labour to replace them with others. We are very scarce of gum.

An Indian handed the men who crossed for the canoe, a note from Mr Kittson[134], he has been at the Chutes[135] since the 31st of July, with the Indians waiting to trade

Friday 12

Cloudy pleasant weather.

Notwithstanding I had the men at work by daylight, they were so long getting paddles, poles & ready that it was 11 oclock before we started & then lost nearly an hour crossing (a freeman, the Soteaux & his baggage.--) So that it was noon when we got off. We got on pretty well and encamped past 6 oclock in the Lake[136] below the traverse to the island. One of the canoes had only 2 men & as they found poles & paddles ready, they went off in the morning & are yet ahead. Two of the canoes are still very leaky notwithstanding the time that was taken to gum them.

Sent off the Indians in the morning to the Fort with the horses, and the appichimens, at the same time I wrote to Mr. Birnie & Mr Dears & desired the latter if he could to prevail on the Kettle falls Indians to get a quantity of cedar bark to cover the store. I doubt the season is too far advanced to raise the bark.

Saturday 13

Cold in the morning blowing fresh from the Southward. Lightening & some thunder & rain in the night.

Had the men up at 3 oclock but it was blowing too fresh to attempt crossing the Lak & nearly 2 hours were lost waiting, still it was rough making the haven, afterwards we got on very well and encamped near 7 oclock below Isle de Pierre.[137] Came up with the two men in the canoe that was ahead of us, in the afternoon.

Passed a good many Indians at the upper end of the Lake, gave them a little tobacco to smok, bought a little cammass from them, & then proceeded.--

Sunday 14

Cold foggy weather in the morning but very warm afterwards.

Proceeded on our journey before 4 oclock and encamped before 6 a good piece above the Barrier River.--We had to stop early to gum the canoes which were very leaky.

Passed a few Indians, two accompanied us all day in a canoe.

Monday 15.

Showry in the morning, fine afterwards.

Embarked at 4 oclock and reached the Indian camp at the Chutes[138] at 11 oclock, where I found Mr. Kittson and two men from Mr Ogdens party with 38 packs & 6 (Parto....) braves. The Indian chiefs (with) Snake furs soon visited us and on being asked whether they wished to trade immediately or wait till tomorrow they preferred the latter. Some tobacco was given them for all hands to smoake.--And in the afternoon Mr. Kittson and I visited their principle lodge where the whole of the Indians soon assembled, when we gave them all the news from the different quarters of the country when they were enjoying the pipe & gave us what news they had in return.--The chiefs sent us some provisions immediately on our arrival.

Tuesday 16

Cold in the morning, very warm afterwards.

At an early hour the Indians began to arrive & a brisk trade was immediately commenced and by noon nearly the whole trade was finished, some lodges & trifling things were brought for sale during the afternoon.--

In the afternoon the men were off in the woods collecting pitch for the canoes, we applied to the Indians but a sufficiency could not be obtained from them and the canoes much in want of it as they will be very deep laden.

Wed.y. 17

Cloudy mild weather.

The men were employed the whole day gumming the canoes & had not the Indians favored us with the lend of their kettles to boil pitch it would have taken another day to finish their business.

All the Indians, except one chief who remained with us, took a most friendly leave of us and departed during the day, there might be altogether about Indians of four different nations, Flat Heads, Kootanies, Ponderus and Piegans, of the latter there are but very few. A considerable number, 30 tents, were coming, but from some cause turned back. It was from the Flat Heads and Kootenais that the trade was principally obtained. These are remarkably fine Indians and easily dealt with. After the trade was over made each of the chiefs a trifling present of a little ammunition & Tobacco, a look.g. glass & a little beads.--

Joachin Hubert accompanied the Indians with the horses that brought the Snake furs and a small supply of articles for Mr. Ogden to whom I wrote and forwarded a number of letters and despatches addressed to him. The packet packet was put in charge of Grospied one of the F. Head chiefs, as being more safe. It was not till I was perfectly satisfied by Mr Kittson that there was no danger of these documents falling into improper hands, that I would trust them. The chiefs are directed to give them to no one but Mr Ogden and in case of any accident having befallen him to bring them back. It was Mr. Ogden's directions to Mr Kittson that only one man should be sent back to him.

Our trade amounts to 374 large & 99 small beaver and 1 otter large, 76 bales meat, 44 Robes, 122 appechimans 16 dressed skins & 11 (chevereaux) and 5 lodges and 1 horse, 29 saddles and cords. etc. Beaver and dressed skins are far short of last year, the deficiency in beaver is owing to a great many of the Kootanies having gone off to their own lands before our arrival, the scarcity of leather may be attributed to the same cause and to their having been at the Buffalo this season. Every encouragement was given for leather, it being so much wanted, and very high prices offered and articles given which is not customary to give for it. A trip will yet have to be made to the Kootany country to endeavour to get some leather and what beaver they may have.

Thursday 18

Foggy in the morning, fine weather afterwards.

Having everything ready, commenced loading at daylight and fell down the river and encamped in the evening a little above the Heron rapid. The canoes are very full and deep laden, it was so much as we could do to get the whole into them, they are in fact heaped up in the middle. We came down the first rapid with half cargo, the other rapids were run with four men in each canoe, so that having to take only two canoes down at a time detained us. Two of the canoes were broke by striking on stones & some time was lost in repairing them, the cargoes fortunately sustained very little damage as they got ashore before they had time to be wet.

The old chief La Brash, who remained with us all night, took his leave and went off in the morning.

Friday 19

Cloudy fine weather.

Continued our rout at daylight, and encamped in the evening at the lower side of the wide traverse in the lake.[139] We were detained sometime repairing one of the canoes that was brok, also two hours at the Lake which was too rough to cross with our canoes so deep laden, tho there was no wind--Some of the bales of meat were a little wet in the canoe that was broke.--

Satd.y. 20

Rain in the morning dry afterwards.

Continued our course at daylight and reached the Portage[140] at noon where three men were immediately sent off to the Fort[141] for horses. the men that remained employed drying the bales that were wet, and preparing places to lay up the canoes.

Sunday 21

Foggy in the morning, warm afterwards.

The men laid up the canoes & arranged part of the baggage to be in readiness when the horses arrive.

Monday 22.

Clear fine weather.

Had all the pieces tied and distributed among them who are divided into twos, saddles, appichimans & cords were also divided among the men.

Three Indians visited us in the evening from whom we got four ducks and a little bears meat.

Three bags of balls, & 9 half & 6 small axes which we had over & above our trade was hid in the woods in the horse pond in the night as it will save the carriage to the Fort and back in the Fall, and these are articles that will not injure by being burried under ground a short time.

Tuesday 23

Cloudy mild weather.

Before noon the men arrived from the Fort with all the Company's horses and what Mr Birnie could collect from the Indians which was still seven short of the number required. However an Indian arrived with these in the evening. The Indians at the Fort it seems are mostly off collecting roots which renders it difficult to procure horses.--As the horses require time to feed & as there would not have been time to get out to the plains where they can be kept without danger of loosing them we deferred starting till this morning.

Wed.y. 24

Some rain in the night, and wet disagreeable weather morning.

The weather being unfavourable we were detained some time in the morning, but it clearing up afterwards, the horses were loaded and we set out & encamped in the evening at the little River at the edge of the woods. Some of the horses are very weak, and scarcely able to manage thir loads.

Thursday 25

Showery in the night, but fair weather during the day, blowing fresh from the Westward.

Proceeded on our journey at 6 oclock and halted at Campment Bindash[142] at 11, where, as some of the horses are weak, I left the people, to go to the Fort tomorrow, & proceeded with Mr. Kittson to the house where we arrived at 4 oclock. I found two of Mr Dease's men who had arrive with despatches from the sea a few hours before they also brought 26 horses for the use of the Snake country expedition.

By a letter of instructions to me I am directed to bring half or such part of the Snake outfit as Mr. Kittson may suppose sufficient, from Nezperces. Now as it is uncertain whether Mr. Ogden may equip his men at the Flat Heads or take them to Nezperces, I am at a loss how to act, as if Mr Ogden takes his peoples to Nezperces it would be lost labour to bring goods from Nezperces and just have to take them back again, it is therefore determined to defer sending for any part of the outfit till the beginning of October, by which time we will have heard from Mr. Ogden & perhaps from the sea and will be able to act according to the instructions received.--I am apprehensive we will not be able to remove to the Kettle Falls this fall as we are uncertain what what assistance we may have to give the Snake people. by remaining the trade will be little affected, where as by removing we run a great risk of having the property, particularly the provisions injured as a store will not be ready to receive it, the horses would also be so completely knocked up transporting the property, that they would be of little service to Mr. Ogden in case he requires them, & probably not able to bring his outfit from Wallawalla.

Friday 26th Augt. 1825.

Clear fine weather.

The men arrived with the horses before noon when the furs, provisions &c were all delivered in safe.--In the afternoon the Indians were settled with for their horses which we hired for the trip.

In the evening I was employed writing letters to Fort Vancouver.

Saturday 27

Clear fine weather.

Sent off Mr Dease's men with dispatches to Nezperces to be for-forwarded to the sea.

A young Indian was engaged to carry the dispatches to Mr Ogden in the Snake country he is to have a horse for his trip, and promises to make the most expeditious he can. Nothing material has occurred since I have been absent. Trade in furs still slack but a little doing in provisions.

Sunday 28

Weather as yesterday.

Sent off the Indian with the express to Mr. Ogden he expects to reach him in about 8 to 10 days.

We are living now entirely on dry provisions as nothing fresh is to be got, not a salmon to be caught in the river.

Monday 29th

Clear fine pleasant weather.

Mr Kittson (&) two men with 6 horses set out for the Kootany country[143] with an assortment of Goods on a Trading excursion.

Sent off 9 men with some tools etc to the Kettle falls to assist with the buildings. I intend following them tomorrow or next day, to see how the business is going on. Getting the store completed is the first object.

Had the Flat head Furs opened and counted, they are in good order, the meat which was opened on Saturday is also in fine condition and weighs about 5500 lbs. The blacksmith Philip made 2 large axes, on Saturday he made 5 & did not begin early. we have now axes for all the people.--

A fire kindled about the Ind camp & spread about our garden & burnt the greater part of the fence which was composed of thorn bushes.--

Tuesday 30

Fine pleasant weather.

Several Indians of the Pendant Oreill tribe arrived and traded, some beaver & roots & berries.

Seventy salmon were taken in our barier which are the first that have been caught for some time The Indians took 100 in this.

Wed.y. 31

Pleasant weather.

Set out from Spokane accompanied by an Indian with 3 horses & some articles, required for building and trade, to the Kettle falls at 8 oclock and encamped at an old barn on a little River in the evening at 5clock. The road lies on the hills & through valleys, some plains thickly wooded & some places clear & here, & there a plain in the valleys.

Sept. Thursd'y. 1

Warm weather.

Resumed our journey at 4 oclock and arrived at the New Establishment at noon.--The road was much the same today as yesterday, it lay a considerable distance through a plain along side of a little river[144], the plain is covered with very long grass and reeds in some places higher than the horse. The course from Spokane is nearly North, perhaps a little to to E of it.

The men who were sent off from Spokane on Monday arrived yesterday and are at work.

The men who were here before have made but very little progress in the work.--7 men of them have been employed since the 13th of Augt. and have only squared 4 logs 70 Feet long, 4-25 feet long. 16-12 feet long & 13 Joists 25 feet long. Mr Dears says he could not get them to go quicker, as same of them were almost always sick.--Two of them are at present ill with the venereal and fit to do very little, one of them does nothing. A pretty good stock of provisions is traded, dry fish & berries sufficient to serve all the peopl here now 18 days. Very few fresh fish are now to be got the water is fallen so much that the salmon do not leap into the baskets which the Indians set for them.

Friday 2nd

Very warm in the middle of the day.

The men were at work at an early hour and finished squaring the logs mentioned yesterday, the pitt saw was also put in order and a pit made to commence sawing tomorrow. A carriage with two wheels and horse harness were also furnished that carting the timber to the house may be begun tomorrow.--

The fort is to be situated in a little nick just above the falls on the South side of the River. This little nick or valley, is of a horse shoe form, about 2 miles along the River side and about 2-1/2 or 3 miles in depth surrounded by steep hills on both sides, a ridge of hills runs along the opposite side of the River. The Fort is to be situated on a sandy ridge about 600 yards from the river side. There is not a sufficiency of wood about it to build the store, that is now under way there the nearest wood is 1400 yards off on one side, 1500 or 1200 yards, on the other, where a little river is to be crossed.--

I took a ride along the river, through a point where there is some fine timber. The most expeditious mode of getting the dwelling house and other houses built will be to have the timber squared a few miles from the fort and rafted down the river. There seems to be some fine timber on the opposite shore about the same distance off.

The potatoes look well, but the moles are destroying some of them. the ground they occupy may be about 35 yards square.--

Saturday 3

Fine pleasant weather.

The men were differently employed, four preparing the frame for the store, some sawing, some squaring & one carting. there are now fifteen men fit for duty at work I expect as they are now properly set agoing they will get on well, and be able to have the store so far completed that the property can be deposited in it if we can effect a removal from Spokane this fall. This must in a great measure depend on what assistance we can give the Snake people.

Two Indians, the old chief's sons, were spoken to and having agreed to accompany a gentleman up the Pendent Oreille River in case he can be spared to go, to examine the lower part of it.

An Indian was also engaged to accompany me to Spokane & bring a supply of some articles of trade & toll that are wanted.

Sunday 4

Pleasant cool weather.

Set out from Kettle Falls at 1/4 past 6 oclock and arrived at Spokane at 7 in the evening, which was a hard days riding, I was accompanied by two Indians who were driving ten horses to the (Buffer de Chideu) where I left them in the evening as some of the horses were giving up. The Indians changed horses frequently, but I changed only once the one I rode in the afternoon came from where I left the men in 1-1/2 hours.

Monday 5

Clear fine warm weather.

Three of the freemen belonging to Mr Ogdens party arrived here two days ago for supplies & say they were permitted to leave the party to proceed across the mountains to the S. side. But as they had no writings with them but notes specifying the state of their a/c which we did not consider sufficient authority to give them any advances and deeming it necessary to send them back to Mr Ogden, so that he might keep his party as strong as possible, they were refused any advances but a little ammunition to take them back to where they would likely meet Mr. Ogden. These men are (A. Valle). A. (Curvais) and (Wetacass), they have brought some beaver & have all money coming to them. Mr Ogden's notes are dated on the 15 Augt. when all the freemen but 6 had parted from him,[145] his party then was only 15 strong, and he was going through a dangerous country, they had been successful in their hunting since Mr Kittson left them.--All the freemen but these three and another, turned back with the Flat Heads.--These men met the Indians who went off on Sunday week with the despatches to Mr Ogden, he was getting on well.--

The Indians whom I left yesterday evening arrived with the horses, some of them are much fatigued.

Nothing material has occured here since I have been absent.

Tuesday 6

Fine weather.

Mr. Kittson arrived from the Kootenais and has made a pretty good trade, 99 beaver, 62 deer & 34 elk skins & 2 horses, he changed some of his horses which were jaded for others. The Kootanies desire a Post[146] to be in their country this season, though some of those we saw at the Flat Heads said it would not be necessary.

(To be continued.)

FOOTNOTES:

[88] John McLeod, Senior, stationed at Thompson river or Kamloops. Consult "Peace River," by Archibald McDonald, for his career.

[89] Probably Charles McKay, son of Alex McKay who was blown up with the Tonquin, and step-son of Dr. John McLoughlin.

[90] Celilo, or the Falls of the Columbia, above The Dalles.

[91] The Sandy river, Multnomah County, Oregon; camp being near Washougal on opposite shore.

[92] Portage around the Cascades on north bank, where railroad portage was built in later years.

[93] The Upper Cape Horn, below Klickitat river; see Wilkes' Map of Oregon.

[94] This was the long portage of about 4-1/2 miles from Big Eddy to the upper end of Ten Mile rapids. From here they used their boats to the Falls, or Chutes, where again carried boats and goods a short distance. Here was the "Wishram" village of Washington Irving. See "Astoria."

[95] John Day river, Oregon side.

[96] David Douglas, the English botanist, who was then on the Columbia. Consult Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol. 5, pp. 218 and 245-6-7.

[97] Now known as Blalock Island but more often referred to by the fur traders as the Long Island; opposite Cayote station of O. W. R. & N. Ry.

[98] The Umatilla rapids, above mouth of Umatilla river, Oregon side.

[99] Also called Fort Walla Walla, built in July-Aug., 1818, by Donald McKenzie & Alex. Ross: consult "Fur Hunters of the Far West," chaptres 6 & 7 and frontispiece for picture of the Fort. Location 1-1/2 miles west of Wallula, of present day.

[100] South branch of the Columbia, that is the Snake river.

[101] Mr. Thos. Dears, a clerk of the H. B. Co., but not attached to any special Post. Mr. J. W. Dease, a Chief Trader, was then in charge of Fort Nez Perces.

[102] The Palouse river of today; the Drewyer's river of Lewis and Clark, and known to the fur traders also as Payton and Pavillon river.

[103] Spokane House, about 100 miles northward; see Ross Cox' "Adventures" etc for an account of this trail to the Spokane river.

[104] Meaning the Pend d'Oreille Indians.

[105] Almota Whitman county, Wash., always a favorite Indian camping place, and meaning the hilly or mountainous stream or place. Lewis and Clark camped here Oct. 11th, 1805 and mention the Indian houses described by John Work a little further on in this text.

[106] That is, the junction of the Snake and Clearwater rivers.

[107] Red Wolf crossing of the Snake river, at mouth of Alpown creek Garfield country, Washington. Col. E. J. Steptoe's expedition crossed here in the year 1858 on its disastrous expedition.

[108] John Work's corruption of the Indian family name Shahaptin.

[109] The Palouse and the Cayuse tribes. Not unlike Lewis and Clark Mr. Work was "something of a speller."

[110] Where Lewiston, Idaho, now stands. See page 128 of Vol. 2 of "Trail of Lewis & Clark" (Wheeler) for photo and description of this site.

[111] That is, the Snake river proper but designated by Lewis and Clark as the Kimooenim, while the Clearwater from the S. E. was the Kooskooske.

[112] A very correct description of "Lewiston Hill" and of the famous Palouse country beyond. Travelers by stage over that road all remember it. Mr. Dease evidently returned direct to Fort Walla Walla by the river.

[113] The regular Indian trail northward followed the line between Washington and Idaho, generally speaking; consult Mauring's "Conquest of Coeur d'Alene, Spokane & Palouse Indians" for this.

[114] Probably near Phileo Lake between Spangle and Cheney, Spokane county, Washington.

[115] Spokane House, at junction of main with the Little Spokane river, nine miles N. W. of City of Spokane, first established by Finan McDonald in 1810; Mr. James Birnie in charge. Mr. Birnie afterward settled at Astoria and Cathlamet near the mouth of the Columbia.

[116] This, and previous entries, give us the actual plans for removal of this trading post to Kettle Falls on the Columbia, as had evidently been agreed upon during the winter at Fort George. Consult "Fur Hunters of Far West" (Ross) Vol. 2, p 162 as to this. Also Gov. Stevens large map in Vol. 12 of Pac. Ry. Reports.

[117] The Pend d'Oreille river, from its mouth to the Calispel river and flats near Cusick, Washington.

[118] The Kootenay river.

[119] Evidently Gov. Simpson was not without some gift of humor; he was preparing Mr. Work for David Douglas' expected visit to the Interior to collect botanical specimens.

[120] After at least 150 miles across the best farming lands of Spokane, Lincoln and part of Douglas counties, Washington. Fort Okanagan was then on the Columbia river side of the plateau at mouth of Okanogan river.

[121] The San Poll river, from the north.

[122] These horses were for use in transporting goods to the Thompson river and New Caledonia Districts, which from now on were to deliver furs and get goods at Fort Vancouver on the Columbia. Up to this time they had shipped everything to and from York Factory to Hudson Bay, using the Tete Jaune Pass across the Rocky Mts.

[123] Peter Skene Ogden, who was in charge of the Snake Country trappers that season. Consult Oregon Historical Quarterly Vol. 10, pp. 229-273.

[124] A half breed named La Prate, who afterward was for many years resident at Fort Okanogan.

[125] The mouth of the Spokane river.

[126] This name should be Robideaux, another half breed.

[127] Alexander Ross, who had proceeded to Red River with Gov. Simpson this same Spring and whose family now follows: and Mr. McLeod sends his family preparatory to himself leaving the Columbia river district the following spring.

[128] Meaning Fort Vancouver.

[129] That is Whirlpool Rapids at the foot of Nespalem Canyon. Consult Lieut. Thos. W. Symon's Report of Examination of Upper Columbia River for this journey from Okanogan to mouth of Spokane river.

[130] The trading post to be known as Fort Colville just above Kettle Falls.

[131] Probably Spirit Lake Northeast of Spokane, and the little river mentioned a little further on was probably Rathdrum creek.

[132] Mr. Finan McDonald, who built Spokane House in 1810 and had but recently left there.

[133] Pend d'Oreille river at Sineacateen crossing, the north end of David Thompson's "Skeetshoo Road"; later known as Markham's Ferry, Kootenay County, Idaho.

[134] William Kittson; see "Fur Hunters of Far West" Vol. 1, p. 207.

[135] Thompson Falls, Montana.

[136] Lake Pend d'Oreille.

[137] Probably the Cabinet Rapids in Clarks Fork river. Barrier river next mentioned is probably Trout Creek of today and maps.

[138] Thompson Falls, Montana, where the Indians would be gathered for the summer trade and to fish. Mr. Ogden's party was either on head waters of Jefferson's Fork of the Missouri in Montana, or on the Snake or Salmon rivers in Idaho.

[139] This wide traverse or crossing of Lake Pend d'Oreille was from near Hope, Idaho westward across the Lake.

[140] That is at Sinecateen again. During mining days this was the principal crossing of the Pend d'Oreille river and is well known to all early settlers of Idaho and Montana and the Kootenay country.

[141] Spokane House.

[142] Probably they had camped for the night at the Hoodoo lake and this Bindash Campment at Spirit Lake, but impossible to locate certainly.

[143] Mr. Kittson goes as far as Bonners Ferry, Idaho, near which David Thompson's "Lake Indian House" had been, for a summer trade with Kootenays there.

[144] The Colville river and valley, and we now get a glimpse of the beginnings of actual settlement and trade in that valley. The "little nick" mentioned further on is Marcus Flat, just above Kettle Falls, where Fort Colvile (so named after one of the H. B. Co. officials) was maintained until about 1872.

[145] This refers to the desertions of the H. B. Co. Free-hunters under inducement from the American traders, concerning which there has been some reflection cast upon Gen. W. H. Ashley, but without real evidence to support it.

[146] Probably meaning the rebuilding of the Post or Fort near Bonners Ferry; a regular Post had been maintained further up the Kootenay river about opposite Jennings, Montana. See Ross Cox' "Adventures." p. 233.

HISTORY OF THE LIQUOR LAWS OF THE STATE OF WASHINGTON

The State of Washington passed through three forms of government before attaining statehood. The present state was first a part of the "Old Oregon" under the provisional government. In 1840 the American population sent a petition to Congress enumerating reasons for a territorial government. This petition closed with these words:

"We pray for the high privilege of American citizenship. The peaceful enjoyment of life, the right of acquiring, possessing and using property and the unrestrained pursuit of rational happiness and for this your petitioners will ever pray."

In 1848 Congress approved the "Oregon Bill" and for four years longer Washington continued a part of the territory of Oregon. The region was then, in 1853, organized as a separate territory and for thirty-six years the "Organic Law." with added amendments, served as the territorial constitution. Washington then became a state in 1889. It is under these different forms of government and through the different stages of growth and development, therefore, that the question of legalizing or prohibiting the sale of alcoholic liquors becomes interesting: Provisional government, 1843-1849: Oregon territory, 1849-1853; Washington territory, 1853-1889; Washington state, 1889.

The first territorial legislature of the present state of Washington convened in 1854. During this session of the legislature there was an effort made to pass a state-wide prohibition law. There had been widespread agitation upon temperance and prohibition throughout the country, by such reformers as John B. Gough and Neal Dow. In the state of Maine Dow's work had resulted in the Maine prohibition law. The effort for prohibition in the territory in 1854 failed but in 1855 a general liquor law was passed entitled "An act to prohibit the manufacture or sale or Ardent Spirits in the Territory of Washington." It is interesting to note the language of this law in the light of the present.

Sec. 1 says "The manufacture, sale or gift of intoxicating liquors is prohibited."

Sec. 2 says "A public agent may be appointed to sell spirituous liquors for certain purposes, such agent to conform to the rules and regulations of the appointing power and receive a compensation."

There is further provision in this law for bond, for punishment, for violation and for fines under the law to go to the public school fund. In addition to this there were two general liquor laws and much minor legislation which we wish to notice.

This law passed June 30, 1855. Five days previous to this date, January 25, there was an enactment prohibiting the sale of liquor to Indians. The penalty for violation was a fine of from $25 to $500. These fines also went into the school fund.

In 1858 another law was passed making it a crime to sell to the Kanakas (Hawaiian Islanders). This law was re-enacted in 1860.

In 1863, as there came to be more respect for law and community life was more firmly established, we find the first provision of a jail sentence for the violation of a liquor law. This was under an act to prevent the sale of adulterated liquor, which made provision for inspectors and defined the duties thereof. The penalty for violation of this law was $500 and six months in jail.

The first law to prohibit the sale to minors was passed on November 9, 1877. For violation of this law there was a jail sentence and fine not to exceed $500, one or both. At the same session on the same day there was a law passed to protect those who sold to a minor who misrepresented his age. Any minor misrepresenting his age was liable to fine of $25 to $100, and jail sentence of not to exceed three months.

Two years later we find the first law for the recovery of damages for injury by use of intoxicating liquors. The law holds the owner of the building liable jointly with the seller. This law was enacted November 14, 1879.

An interesting bit of legislation is a law passed in 1879 restraining the sale of intoxicating liquor in certain counties, Spokane, Stevens and Whitman, within one mile of the Northern Pacific Railroad, during construction. For violation of this law there was provided a fine of $300 or three months in jail or both.

In 1881 a second damage law providing for damages for one who suffered injury in person, property or means of support. This law says no license shall be granted without the consent in writing of the owner of the building for his property to be used for saloon purposes. The property then becomes liable and the owner may be held for damages. The money for damages may be recovered by civil action.

No further legislation of notice follows till the year 1885, just thirty years after the first general liquor law was passed--thirty years of attempted control which had not been very successful. The agitation for teaching the effects of alcohol and narcotics in the public schools resulted in the passage of such a law in this state December 23, 1885. This law applies to all schools supported wholly or in part by money from the territorial treasury. "The County Treasurer shall withhold the county funds from any school not complying with the provisions of this act." A fine of $100 is assessable against any county or state superintendent who fails to enforce the provisions of the law. This law, passed December 23, 1885, went into effect in July, 1886, and provided that teachers must take an examination in this subject after 1887.

In the year 1886 a second general liquor law was passed. This law is known as, "An act to prohibit the sale of Intoxicating Liquors in Election Precincts of Washington Territory, Whenever a Majority of Legal Voters of Any Such Precinct, at any election to be held for that purpose, shall vote in favor of the prohibition of such liquors." This is quite a lengthy law beginning with Section 1 which defines the terms used, stating the singular shall include the plural and the plural the singular. Nouns and pronouns of the masculine gender shall include the feminine. The term intoxicating liquor shall include all liquor of any nature. We may infer from this clause that there had been some dispute over the interpretation of previous laws. Through court cases under this law an incorporated town or city shall be a voting precinct. This law contained eighteen different sections.

In 1887 there was a license law passed. This law permits the county board to license outside of cities and towns. The license fee was from $300 to $1000 divided as follows: 10 per cent goes to the state; 35 per cent goes to the school; 55 per cent goes to the county. In cities the council may grant the license. Then 10 per cent goes to the state, 90 per cent goes to the city. Bonds are fixed at $1000. It was approved February 2, 1888, to be in force sixty days after approval.

In 1893 there was a law passed amending municipal incorporation liquor tax regulation.

In 1895 a law was passed making it a nuisance to sell liquor contrary to law.

Another law was passed in the same year, 1895, which is of interest. This was an act prohibiting the sale of intoxicating liquor on or within two miles of the University Grounds, making an exception of a small corner of ground in Madison Park on Lake Washington. This law was drawn by Professor Edmond S. Meany, Department of History, Washington State University. Illinois has a law similar to this one, but the limit in that state is one mile while in Washington it is two. In 1903 a law passed prohibiting the sale of intoxicating liquor within the proscribed limit (of 2000 feet) of state institutions. This applied to state institutions, not educational as well, and contained a clause stating that this law would not affect the law concerning the State University. The fine for violation of this law was a fine of $200 to $1000. Another law in 1903 was for the search and seizure of liquor. In 1905 a law passed providing for the license to be endorsed by the treasurer of the state when he received his share of the license fee. This law would lead one to believe that there might sometimes be some irregularity in handling license monies.

Another act in 1905 was an amendment to the act providing for the right of action for damages.

In 1907 there was passed "An act relating to sale of intoxicating liquors," fixing a state license fee of $25 and providing punishment for violation thereof.

A number of measures were passed in 1909; An act to prohibit a wholesaler from holding an interest in a saloon or acting as bondsman. The fine for the violation is from $100 to $500 or a jail sentence for thirty days to six months. Monies loaned for such purposes in violation of this law are forfeited to the city or state. An act prohibiting the sale of liquor to Indians or mixed bloods and fixing a penalty for the violation thereof. The state board of tax commissioners are empowered to regulate the enforcement of the law of 1907.

The Military Code gives the commanding officer of the National Guard authority, saying, "He shall prohibit or prevent the sale or use of all intoxicating liquors. The sale of intoxicating liquor is prohibited within 2000 feet of State institutions, Normal, Agricultural Colleges, etc., and provides a fine of $200 to $1000 for the violation of this act."

In this same year, 1909, the third general liquor law of this state was passed. This is known as the "Local Option Law." The unit of territory under this law shall be each city of the first, second, third or fourth class each unclassified city having a population of 1000 inhabitants and each county having no first, second, third or fourth class city. Under this law the question shall be submitted at the general election or at special elections by the petition of 30 per cent of the electors at the last general election. This is quite a lengthy law and would appear to cover almost every point of regulation of the traffic. One clause of the law says, "No provision is intended or shall be construed to violate or contradict the laws of the United States." The text of this act contains twenty-three sections. This local option law passed the Senate February 18, 1909; passed the House March 4, 1909, and was approved March 12, 1909.

We are now close to the present time and it may be well to notice that in 1911 an effort was made to amend the law of 1909. The amendment was introduced in the Senate by Mr. Falconer and known as Senate Bill No. 121. The bill was read the first and second time and was referred to the Committee an Morals--evidently an effort was made to kill the bill in committee. There was two reports, a majority and a minority report. The former was accepted. The bill was advanced to third reading. Eight amendments were offered but all were lost. It passed the senate by a vote of 24 to 16. The measure did not fare as well in the house. Here also it was House Bill 121. It was read the first time, referred to the committee on rules of order, reported back without recommendation, then indefinitely postponed.

The legislature in 1911 did at least pass one measure. This law made it a gross misdemeanor to permit minors in saloons.

The general law of 1909, which is known as the Local Option Law, was secured through the temperance forces of the state. The strongest and most active organizations are the Independent Order of Good Templars and the Anti-Saloon League. The Good Templars of this state have in addition to the American order a branch society among the Scandinavians, which numbers several thousand voters. Much credit for the advance in temperance and anti-saloon sentiment in Washington must be given to George F. Cotterill, the former mayor of the city of Seattle. Mr. Cotterill has not only been active among the American and Scandinavian Good Templars of which he is the national head in America, but he has been fully as diligent in the circles of organized labor.

Labor organizations have been active in temperance agitation. They realize that sober men command a higher wage than drinking men and are quite as zealous as the church in training their members to stay sober.

The question of "State Wide Prohibition" will be submitted to a referendum vote of the people of the state in 1914.

We have the same question confronting us today that we had 59 years ago.

ANNA SLOAN WALKER.

DIVORCE IN WASHINGTON

In the matter of divorce, the commonwealth of Washington has passed through a social evolution. In the early part of the territorial period it was a common practice for the legislature to enact private laws, granting divorces. The first of these divorces on record was granted by the Oregon territorial legislature as far back as 1845. The ease with which divorces could be obtained resulted in a wholesale abuse of this legislative privilege. According to Arthur A. Denny, Fayette McMullin accepted the office of governor of the territory and came to Olympia for the expressed purpose of obtaining such a legislative divorce. Mr. Denny was plied to vote for the measure but refused. He never would vote for a divorce bill, and always told the applicants to go to the courts for their divorces. Mr. Denny's attitude on the question was shared by many others, as the constant opposition to the practice shows. As for Governor McMullin, he was successful in getting his divorce. It was granted on the 25th day of January, 1858. Two other such divorces were granted at the same session. One was granted at the following session and fifteen at the next. The average at the next few sessions was between ten and fifteen. McMullin afterwards married Miss Mary Wood of Olympia. The fact that he was removed from office for incompetency in July, 1858, will serve to give one an index to his personality. His term of office was from 1857-59 and Charles H. Mason, secretary of the territory, filled out the unexpired term.

A more sturdy type of man, who served as war governor, was William Pickering. His views on the granting of legislative divorces is but a voicing of the general sentiment. Prior to his arrival in the territory, unhappy married people had usually applied to the legislature for the granting of divorces. At nearly every session one or more acts had been passed and the divorce business had been particularly active during the two preceding sessions, at one of which fifteen and the other seventeen such acts had been passed. Secretary Turney, as acting governor, had declared against this practice in the message he sent to legislature in December, 1861, but no attention was paid to his recommendation that it be discontinued. Turney's attitude on the question was expressed as follows: "All good citizens acknowledge and respect the marriage relation. Yet, the interests of society are often stabbed and stricken down, and public sentiment outraged and insulted by disregarding that sanctity, in severing those who have been united in wedlock's holy bands. Those ties should be sundered only by courts of competent jurisdiction, and only for one cause--the scriptural ground for a writing of divorcement."

Pickering's message was but a renewal of this recommendation and his principal points were that the law declared marriage to be a civil contract, all breaches or violations of which were proper subjects for the judiciary alone. The courts alone could hear the testimony of the parties and they alone could render final judgment and decree for alimony and determine which of the parties should have the care and custody of the minor children. Although sixteen divorces were granted at this session, an act was passed at the succeeding session which practically committed the granting of divorces to the courts, and the practice of applying to the legislature was soon discontinued.

Pickering's position on the question, as brought out in his first gubernatorial message to the legislature on December 17, 1862, was as follows: "I should be recreant to the duty I owe to society, if I failed to call your serious attention to the sad and immoral effects growing out of the readiness with which our legislative assemblies have heretofore annulled that most solemn contract of marriage. Let me earnestly invoke you to stay the evils, which result from the legislature granting divorces, thereby destroying the sacred responsibilities and duties of husband and wife merely upon the request, or petition, of one of the parties.

"Without intending to trespass upon your law making province, permit me to suggest for your consideration the fact, that the present laws declare marriage to be a civil contract; therefore all breaches or violations of its conditions are proper subjects for the judiciary alone, and not for legislative enactment on one side, or ex parte statements.

"The law as it stands upon the statute books of the territory has conferred full jurisdiction upon the courts, in all cases belonging to divorces, which is the only tribunal that can deliberately hear and examine all the witnesses on both sides of those unfortunate domestic difficulties of the parties applying for a dissolution of the marriage contract.

"The legislature seldom has the opportunity of hearing any witnesses, even on the side of the complaining party, and never can have before them all the witnesses connected with both parties, especially necessary to the proper adjudication of these cases. It will also be well to remember, that in the divorce cases the legislature cannot decree or enter judgment for alimony, division of property belonging to the married parties, nor legally decide whether the separate husband or wife, shall lawfully continue the possession, care and control of their children.

"The court alone can have full power to render final judgment and decree of alimony, division of property and direct who shall have the care and control of the minor children.

"Many of the legislatures of the states, for several years past, have positively refused to grant divorces. Eminent lawyers are agreed in the opinion that all divorces granted by the legislature are entirely unconstitutional, and therefore null and void, for the reason that no act of the legislature can destroy, annul, violate, or set aside the said civil contract nor the sacred and religious bonds and mutual obligations entered into by man and wife at the solemnization of marriage. It is at all times a very serious and delicate matter for any person or persons to interfere in any manner in the unhappy quarrels and family difficulties of man and wife. There are few subjects brought before the courts of our country requiring to be treated with more deliberate care and caution than divorces.

"Whenever a legislative body takes an action in cases of divorces, it is not improperly regarded as an infringement upon the legislative provinces of the courts. For these reasons I trust your honorable body will firmly refuse to interfere with the rights of husband and wife. Applicants, seeking separation, should be directed to the courts of our territory where they can receive all the relief and remedy for their grievances which the laws of our country afford."

In spite of this protest that same session enacted sixteen such private bills, and at the following session the governor renewed his objections. In January, 1866, the legislature enacted a law declaring marriage to be a civil contract which would throw the consideration of divorce into the courts. In 1871 another divorce bill was passed but this was the last and subsequent efforts to revive the practice failed.

The attempted constitution of 1878, which was drawn up at Walla Walla, declared against such legislative divorces, as did the approved constitution of 1889.

The causes of this dissatisfaction in the method of granting divorces are apparent. The people realized that marriage is the institution at the basis of our social existence. An undoubted reaction against the laxity of the divorce laws was springing up, not only in Washington, but throughout the United States. This action ultimately resulted in two reforms. It diminished the grounds on which a divorce may be granted and it extended the period necessary to establish a legal residence. Today there is no state in which an action for divorce may be brought without a preliminary residence of at least six months. The drift of legislation in the last twenty years has been almost wholly in the direction of greater restriction. In spite of this the national ratio of divorce is 1:12.

Although most states have but a single provision in their constitution regarding divorce, Washington has two. They are: Article II, Section 24. The legislature shall never authorize any lottery or grant any divorce. Article IV, Section 6. The superior court shall have jurisdiction of all matters of divorce and for the annulment of marriage. These provisions have removed, beyond all doubt, the granting of legislative divorces.

A brief survey of the laws at the present time reveal the following information:

_Jurisdiction._

Jurisdiction shall lie in the district court in the county where the petitioner resides.

The act of February 21, 1891 provides that divorces shall be granted by the superior court.

_Residence._

The petitioner must have been a resident of the state for one year next before the filing of the petitions. This is an amendment of the act of January, 1864, which required only three months.

_Service of Process or Notice._

Legal notice shall be personal or by publication.

Like process shall be had as in all other civil suits.

By the laws of 1893 it is provided that when the defendant cannot be found in the state, a copy of the summons and complaint shall be mailed to him at his place of residence, but if the residence is not known, service may be by publication. Publication must be once each week for six consecutive weeks in a newspaper published in the county where the action is brought or, if there be none there, in an adjoining county, or if there be none there, in the capital of the state.

_Causes for Absolute Divorce._

1. When the consent to the marriage of the party applying for the divorce was obtained by force or fraud and there has been no subsequent voluntary cohabitation.

2. For adultery on the part of the wife or husband, when unforgiven, and application is made within one year after it shall come to his or her knowledge.

3. Impotency.

4. Abandonment for one year.

5. Cruel treatment of either party by the other.

6. Personal iniquities rendering life burdensome.

7. Habitual drunkenness of either party.

8. Neglect or refusal of the husband to make suitable provisions for his family.

9. The imprisonment of either party in the penitentiary, if complaint is filed during the term of such imprisonment.

10. Any other cause deemed by the court sufficient, when the court shall be satisfied that the parties can no longer live together.

11. In the discretion of the court, in case of incurable, chronic mania or dementia of either party, the same having existed for ten years or more.

The above causes were in effect in 1887.

By an act approved Feb. 24, 1891, cause 6, as given above, was amended so as to read as follows: "Personal indignities rendering life burdensome."

_Limited Divorce._

There is no limited divorce in Washington.

_Special Provisions for Defence._

Whenever a petition for divorce remains undefended, it shall be the duty of the prosecuting attorney to resist such petition, except where the attorney for the petitioner is a partner of or keeps his office with, such prosecuting attorney, in which case the court shall appoint an attorney to resist the petition.

_Temporary Alimony._

During the pendency of an action for divorce, the court may make such orders relative to the expenses of the suit as will insure to the wife an efficient preparation of her case, and a fair and impartial trial thereof.

_Permanent Alimony._

In granting a divorce the court shall make such disposition of the property of the parties as shall appear just and equitable, having regard to the respective merits of the parties, and to the condition in which they will be left by such division and to the party through whom the property was acquired, and to the burdens imposed upon it for the benefit of the children.

_Refusal of Divorce._

No divorce shall be granted in case of adultery, if the offense has been forgiven by the petitioner, or on the ground of force or fraud, if there has been subsequent voluntary cohabitation of the parties.

In case of adultery the action must be commenced within one year after petitioner shall have knowledge of the act.

_Answer or Cross-complaint._

The defendant may, in addition to the answer, file a cross complaint for divorce, and the court may grant a divorce in favor of either party.

_Change of Name After Divorce._

In granting a divorce, the court may, for just and reasonable cause, change the name of the wife, who shall thereafter be known and called by such name as the court shall in its order or decree appoint.

_Trial by Jury._

Practice in civil actions govern all proceedings in the trial of actions for divorce, except that trial by jury is dispensed with.

_No Divorce on Confession._

When the defendant does not answer or, answering, admits the allegations in the petition, the court shall require proof before granting the divorce.

_Custody of Children._

On granting a decree, the court shall make provision for the guardianship, custody, support and education of the minor children of the marriage.

Pending an action for divorce the court may make such orders for the disposition of the children of the parties as may be deemed right and proper.

_Remarriage._

When a divorce is granted, a full and complete dissolution of the marriage as to both parties follows: Provided, That neither party shall be capable of contracting marriage with a third person until the period has expired within which an appeal may be taken, or until the determination of such appeal, if taken. The act approved March 9, 1893 in addition, makes such a marriage unlawful under any circumstances within six months, and requires that the judgment or decree must expressly prohibit such a marriage within six months.

Thus we have a summary of past and present conditions. In conclusion, a few statistics will clearly show whether or not the laws have accomplished their purpose.

Divorces granted in Washington.

1867-86. 1887-1906.

996 16,215

Average annual divorces per 100,000 population.

1900 1890 1880 1870

184 190 75 88

Per 100,000 married population.

1900 1890

513 316

Rank according to average number of annual divorces per 100,000 population.

1900 1890 1880 1870

1. Wash. Colo. Colo. Wyom. & Ind. Terr.

2. Mont. Mont. Mont. ...

3. Colo. Wash. Utah Rhode Is.

4. Ind. Ore. Wyo. Wash.

11. Wash.

In city counties In other counties Excess of city rates

1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890

266 140 162 103 104 37

Number and cause of divorces granted from 1867-1906.

Desertion 6,446

Cruelty 4,026

Neglect to provide 3,087

Adultery 699

Drunkenness 674

Combinations of preceding causes 1,388

All other causes 891

Thus we have the most recent government statistics. However, a review of conditions in King County during the last year will give us a more accurate idea of conditions. The records show that almost 25 per cent of the total number of cases filed in the superior court were divorce cases. The figures show a total of 6,710 cases filed, of which 1,539 were divorce cases. The increase in the number of divorces over 1912 is approximately ten per cent.

Of the total number of divorce cases filed decrees were granted in 986 cases, and nearly 200 cases are now pending. The majority of applicants for divorce are wives, the larger number asking for divorce on the grounds of cruelty. The ratio of marriage to divorce in this county for 1913 is 3.5:1.

Judges of the superior court, while ascribing different causes to the increase of divorce, all deplore it. One judge holds that a change in the laws would tend to decrease the number of divorces. Other judges hold that divorce is a social matter that is entirely outside of the particular form of law and arises from personal and local surroundings.

The total number of divorces, it is held, should not be taken as an indication of local domestic trouble, for the reason that 20 per cent or more come from British Columbia. Of the remainder a large number arise in the cases of people who have arrived from the East during the past two years.

The fact remains, however, that it is not easy to account for the wide variation in the divorce rates in the different states. The results are affected by a wide variety of influences: the composition of the population as regards race or nationality; the proportion of immigrants in the total population and the countries from which they came; the relative strength of the prevailing religions and particularly the strength of the Roman Catholic faith against divorce; the variation in divorce laws and in the procedure and practice of the courts granting divorces; the interstate migration of population, either for the purpose of obtaining a divorce or for economic or other reasons not connected with divorce--all these, and doubtless many more, are factors which may affect the divorce rate.

The states with the highest ratio are generally those in the western part of the country. The west is a progressive country. But this is one path along which we would prefer to progress less rapidly. Let us not, in our mad rush for wealth, honor and pleasure, forget the religion of our fathers and the sacredness of the marriage bond. Remember that marriage is the foundation of the state and divorce is the torrent which is rushing madly forward in an ever-increasing effort to undermine it. Let each one do his part to divert this ruthless enemy to progress.

RALPH R. KNAPP.

DOCUMENTS

A NEW VANCOUVER JOURNAL

Vancouver was one of the greatest explorers who visited the shores of Northwestern America. Any new document that can throw light on his work is therefore important.

The known history of this present document is very brief. In 1907, the Macmillan Company published Vancouver's Discovery of Puget Sound, by Edmond S. Meany. The relatively few copies printed travelled widely over the earth. Among the letters received by the author was one from A. H. Turnbull of Wellington, New Zealand.

He said Vancouver's work was of great interest to the people in that part of the world because of his explorations there. The armed tender Chatham, consort of Vancouver's ship Discovery, had discovered and named Chatham Island, which was later associated with New Zealand in government. In his search for books bearing on explorations, Mr. Turnbull had located in an old book stall in London the manuscript of a journal kept by a member of the Chatham's crew. He purchased it and placed it in his private library in Wellington.

Finding that part of the journal related to the Northwest coast of America he had that portion carefully copied and it is from this copy that the present publication is made, Mr. Turnbull entered "(sic)" in a few doubtful places and these are allowed to stand. He also omitted a portion descriptive of a tragedy in Hawaii.

This journal is by no means as full or as finished in style as that of Vancouver, but it will certainly be cherished as a companion to the larger work.

Probably one reason for the name of the writer being unknown is that it was a government expedition and no private journals were permitted.

The present editor is responsible for the annotations.

EDMOND S. MEANY.

* * * * *

March, 1792.

_From the Sandwich Islands to the No. We. Coast of America._

After leaving Ooneehow we had the wind from the Northward and Eastward, with which we stood to the N. W. close hauled. At daylight Ooneehow[147] bore East 7 or 8 leagues, Atooi Eb N 1-2 N, and Tahouru S E b S. As the morning advanced we got the wind from the N. Wrd. and the Signal was made to steer NNE. The wind blew fresh in squalls attended with rain all day and at night, and we lost sight of the Discovery, in the morning she was perceived a considerable distance to Leeward with only her head sails set, and we bore down to her, and as we came nearer we judged from what we saw going forward on board her, that she had sprung her Main Mast, indeed we could observe clearly that they were fishing it. This disagreeable weather continued several days, the wind chiefly from the Nd. & NbE. On the 23rd our Latitude: was 24.49 Nd. and the Longe: 209° Et. We now began to feel a very considerable change in the weather, and from the thin linen clothes that we were used to wear at the Islands, we were obliged to change to our warmest dresses. The Sandwich Island fowls though fed on their own country food all died.

The 24th in the afternoon being calm Capt. B. went on board the Discovery, and Mr. Paget[148] returned and dined on board the Chatham, when we learnt that their Main Mast was not only sprung, as we conjectured but that they had found the head of the Foremast also sprung, and had carried away both the Fore & Main Top Gallant Yards on the night of the 19th. In the evening we had the wind again from the N Erd. which continued and with it continued also very gloomy disagreeable weather. On the 27th our Lat: was at noon 24.21 N and the Longe: 215.5 Et. Tack'd and stood to the N W. We kept tacking occasionally, and on the 31st we were no further to the Nd. than the Lat. of 28°.

The 1st of April being the Anniversary of our leaving England, double allowance of Grog was served to the Ship's Company to commemorate the day and drink the healths of their old friends at home. We made but a very poor hand of working through the Trade Wind and from the 1st to the 4th made scarce anything. We then got the breeze pretty fresh with fair weather at N. E. and steered N. N. W. the Lat: 30.26 N. this fine weather continued till the 6th when we were in Lat: of 33.59 N. and the Longe: of 216.30 Et. It was not till the 8th in the Lat: of 36° N. that we lost the N E trade, to carry it so far is uncommon; we then had it calm, and two gentlemen from the Discovery who had been shooting some marine Birds came on board. They had kill'd a very large bird call'd by the sailors Mother Carey's Goose, it measured 7-1/2 feet from tip to tip of the wings. They told us they had seen a duck fly past the Ship the day before, which is somewhat surprising as we know of no land very near us. This day and yesterday observed the surface of the water to be covered with a species of what is call'd the Medusa Vanilla.[149]

The weather became now very thick & foggy with drizzling rain, and it continued for the most part calm till the 10th. When a breeze began to freshen from the W b S we made all sail steering E N E. In the morning of the 11th it veer'd to S E b S where it made a stand with fine pleasant weather. Our Lat: that day was 36.10 and the Longe: 221.8 Et. We had this fine weather till the 16th when the wind veer'd to E S E blowing in hard squalls attended with rainy dirty weather, that at night increased to a hard gale and brought us to close reef'd Topsails. We wore occasionally, and our Lat: at Noon was 38.50 N. The gale settled at S. E. increasing in volume, and in the course of the night, we were oblig'd to hand the Topsails. Moderating a little by the morning, we let out the reefs and stood to the E N E. At noon the 17th the Lat: was 39.23 N and the Longe: 234.50 Et. The weather was very thick and Hazy, and about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, the Discovery who was two mile ahead of us made the Signal for seeing the Land. At this time we had vast numbers of Shags, Divers, Ducks & other Birds of the Seashore about us, but from the thickness of the weather it was not till near 5 o'clock that we saw the Land, when the Coast of New Albion[150] was seen bearing from N b E to E b S. not many miles distant. The haze over the Land clearing up a little gave us an opportunity of seeing it. It had a very pleasing appearance, high and covered to the top with tall pines with here and there some rich verdant lawns. We tack'd early and stood off and on during the night and in the morning stretch'd in again for the shore. We had no wind till towards noon when a fine breeze from S. S. E. sprung up and we bore away along shore with all sail set. As we had now entered upon our Station, and the survey of the Coast, we were obliged to haul off at dark and spend the night in short boards, that we might take up the Land in the morning where we left off the evening before. The 19th we had a fine moderate Breeze at S. E. with which we run along shore. Our Lat: at Noon 40.2 N & Long: 235.22 Et. It freshened in the evening with rainy hazy weather and by midnight we had a very hard gale which continued all the 21st. In the morning of the 22nd it fell calm with thick, foggy unpleasant weather and it was not till the following day that we were enabled to get in with the Land and run along shore. Our weather was now clear and pleasant with the wind from the Sd: & S. Eastd. At noon on the 24th our Lat: was 42.31 N and it falling calm soon after, with a Current setting us fast on Shore we anchor'd per Signal in 37 fm: in a deep Bay, the N Extreme of which is a remarkable Cape, which Captn: Vancouver named Cape Orford[151], in honor of the Earl of that name.

We presently found that this place was inhabited, for two Canoes appear'd (the first on this Coast we had seen) one of which went to the Discovery, the other came to us. In this one there were five men who after making fast their canoe came on board with great confidence, and did not shew much surprise on entering the Vessel. Though they had brought nothing purposely to sell yet they were perfectly well acquainted with bartering, and their Cloathing which was Deer Skins with one or two Fox Skins, and a few Bows & Arrows that they had, they readily sold for trifles, nor wou'd they part with anything till they got what they conceived an equivalent. They were fond of metal of any kind and Bits of Iron & Yellow Buttons they eagerly took. One of them had a thin bit of old Iron fixed into a piece of wood as a knife. Some of them had ornaments of Necklaces, composed of a small black berry and shells, intermixed with small tubes of copper. Their Ears and the Septum of the Nose were perforated and ornamented in the same manner. They were perfectly naked except two of them that had deer skins thrown loosely over their shoulders. Their colour was not easily to be found out from the quantity of dirt and paint with which they were besmeared, but were they clean I should suppose they are something of an Olive colour. They had very bad teeth, their hair was black and grew long behind, and their Language was the most uncouth I ever heard. Their Bows were small and made from the Ewe Tree and their Arrows were strait and even of about two feet and a half long, feathered at one end and barbed and pointed with flint at the other. Some of them had also Knives of Flint. Their canoes were extremely rude and unwieldy and little calculated for any distant embarkation, they were about 17 feet in length, 4ft. 6in. in breadth at the Gunwales, and 3 feet deep, roughly hewn out of one solid tree, flat bottom'd and square at each end. After selling every little thing they had they took their leave. This Canoe had no Sea Otter skins in her but the one that went to the Discovery had a couple of small Cub Otter Skins.

25th. At night with the land wind we weigh'd and stood out to the Wd. and at daylight with a fair Soly: Breeze bore away along shore. The fair and pleasant weather continued, and on the 27th at noon we observed in the Lat: of 46.10 N. Just then the Discovery made the Signal that we were standing into Danger, we haul'd out, this situation is off Cape Disappointment from whence a very extensive Shoal stretches out and there was every appearance of an opening there, but to us the sea seem'd to break entirely across it.[152] On the 28th at Noon our Lat: was 47.32 N and in the Evening the 29th falling calm, we came to an anchor with the Discovery near Destruction Island, the place where a Boat's Crew of the Imperial Eagle commanded by Mr. Berkley[153] were barbarously murdered by the Natives as mention'd in Mears' Voyage. None of the natives came off to us but we observ'd two canoes entering a small Bay abreast of us. At about 3 we weigh'd per Signal and at 5 set Studding Sails with a moderate Soly: Breeze, but rainy weather. At daylight a strange Sail was seen in the N. W. quarter standing towards us, she hoisted American Colours. About 7 we spoke her, she proved to be the Ship Columbia of Boston commanded by a Mr Grey,[154] on the Fur trade. She had wintered on the Coast in Port Clynquot[155] in Berkley's Sound. This Mr. Grey being the man who Mr Mears[156] in his Chart has published having entered the Streights of De Fuca, and after proceeding a considerable distance up, return'd to sea again by another passage to the Northward of that by which he entered--Captn: Vancouver was desirous of obtaining from him some information respecting the Streights, he therefore hoisted a boat out, and sent an officer on board the Columbia. Mr Grey very civilly offered him any information he could possibly give him, but at the same time told him that Mr Mears had been very much misled in his information and had published what never had happened; for though he (Mr Grey) did enter the Streights of De Fuca, and proceeded a considerable distance, where he still saw an unbounded horizon, he return'd, but return'd by the same way he entered. He had been two & twenty months from Boston, and had obtained a valuable cargo of Furs. He had built a small sloop of about 45 tons at Clyoquot which was now trading to the Northward.

He gave no very favourable account of the Northern Indians whose daring and insolent spirit had carried them to very unwarrantable lengths. Several attempts had been made by them to seize his, and other Vessels on the Coast. Several people of different Ships had been treacherously murdered, and Mr Grey's Chief Mate with two of the seamen were in this manner murder'd while fishing round a point of Land, a small distance from the Ship. This happen'd somewhere about the Lat: of 54-1/4°. After the Boat with the Officer return'd we made sail to the Nd. and the Columbia stretched in for the Shore. About noon we were nearly abreast of the much talked of Streights of Juan De Fuca, the Discovery made our Signal to lead in. The weather was thick and Hazy and prevented our having an observation. Cape Classet[157] at Noon bore N 20 E 2 miles. This Cape is settled by Captn: Vancouver in the Lat: of 48.23 N and the Longe: 235.38 Et.

At one o'clock we haul'd round Green Island,[158] and as we pass'd had a view of the Spiral Rock,[159] which is remarkable. On Green Island is a very large Village, and from it and the Villages on the Main, a number of canoes came off. The Natives brought a number of Otter Skins to sell, but wou'd part with none for anything but Copper & Blue Cloth Cloathing with Metal Buttons they were very eager after and we saw several with Blue Coats & round Hats. Mr Mears is very much out in the distance he makes the entrance of these Streights, he says they are 15 leagues wide, whereas the Entrance is no more than 12 leagues in breadth. In the Evening having but little wind and it coming on thick we brought up on the S. shore in 12 fathoms water and then observed the Columbia following us. She had just entered the Streights. After we came too a few fish were caught with the hook & line.

May. The following morning the 1st of May with a fine breeze at West and clear pleasant weather we got under weigh and proceeded up the Streights, and left the Columbia off Green Island laying too, bartering with the Natives for Skins. Several canoes follow'd us with skins, fish &c., to sell but the rage was copper; next to this article Cloth & wearing apparel with Brass Buttons, Copper wrist bands, Musquets & Swords were chiefly in demand.

Among other articles offered for sale was their children, several were offered for a Musket or a Sheet of Copper. The women being the first we had seen since leaving the Sandwich Islands, had not a few attacks of Gallantry made on them by the Sailors though they were by no means inviting. But however great the difference between them and the Sandwich Islanders in point of Beauty much greater was it in point of behaviour, for here the smallest degree of indelicacy towards one of these Ladies, shock'd their modesty to such a degree, and had such an effect on them, that I have seen many of them burst into tears, they would endeavour to hide themselves in the bottom of their canoes and discover the most extreme degree of uneasiness and distress.

Some of the canoes were very large and contain'd a whole family of men & women and a considerable part of their Household furniture, large Bladders full of their delicious Whale Oil was in every canoe and the little Infants in their Cradles were plied with large quantities of it by their Mothers. As we got the Breeze fresher, the canoes soon dropp'd off.

About 6 o'clock in the evening having run about 20 leagues from the Entrance in a Bite on the S. side in 8 fathoms, from this the Streights appear'd to widen, but we saw some very distant land in which there were many apparent large openings. So far as we had yet proceeded up these Streights, we had seen no opening, nor the appearance of any Harbour, on the Southern, or Continental Shore; now two or three openings presented themselves, and as the great object of the voyage was if possible to discover a communication by water between this Coast and the Lakes situated on the other side of America, the Continental Shore must of course be kept always aboard and all openings minutely explored.

Captain Vancouver was now anxious to get the Vessels into a Harbor, and while the Vessels were refitting it was intended that the boats should be sent to explore the openings now in sight. Accordingly the next morning he went himself in the Pinnace, accompanied by our Cutter (both well arm'd) to look for a Harbour. This they found at a short distance from us, and the next morning we weigh'd and made sail for it. The Harbour was a very complete one and shelter'd from all winds but the water was deep and we anchor'd in 25 fathoms water not a quarter of a mile from the Shore. This place at first was named Port Discovery, conceiving ourselves the first that had been in it, but we afterwards found ourselves mistaken, it having been visited by two Spanish Vessels, and call'd Port Quadra,[160] by which name it was continued and we settled its Lat: to be 48.2.30 N and the Long: 237.22.19 E.

Opposite to where the Vessels lay a low Point of Land run out, where there was an excellent run of Freshwater. Here the Tents and Observatory were set up, and there being plenty of Spruce Pine here a party from each Ship was sent on shore to brew Spruce Beer for the Ships' Companies. As this Beverage was well known to be a great Antiscorbutic, the people were allow'd to drink freely of it in lieu of their Grog. As the Chatham was very open in her upper works the Carpenters of both Vessels were employ'd in Caulking her.

Not having met the Store ship at the Sandwich Islands as was expected and fearing that we might probably not see her till the next Season at those Islands, and possibly not then, should any unfortunate accident have happen'd to her in which case we should have been somewhat distress'd for Provisions particularly Bread & Flour, it was only proper to guard against such disappointments and delays. The Ships Company was therefore on the 5th put to two-thirds allowance of Bread only. This on the coast of America cou'd be no hardship as Fish is always to be got. We haul'd the Seine here generally every day, and in general with success, and we frequently got Salmon Trout in it.

On the 17th Captn: Vancouver, with Lieut: Paget, and Mr. Johnstone our Master set out in 3 Boats well Mann'd and arm'd, and victuall'd for a week, to explore the openings between this and our last anchorage which I spoke of. In the meantime the Vessels were refitting for sea. The Powder was sent on shore to dry, and being in want of Plank the Carpenters were employ'd, after the Caulking was finished, in sawing up a fine large tree, of which there were plenty, and very convenient. As there were no Inhabitants here we carried on all our operations with facility; now and then a couple or 3 canoes wou'd come in with a little Fish to sell, but this was not often, and they were very quiet and inoffensive. They were evidently a tribe that visited the Sea Coast but seldom, as they were generally clad in skins of Land animals, and during our stay here, they brought but one Sea Otter skin to sell. Once or twice they brought some fresh kill'd Venison which was very acceptable to us, for though we could everywhere observe the track of Deer, and shooting excursions were frequently made, we were never so fortunate to shoot any here.

When the time arrived for the expected return of the Boats we began impatiently to look out for them, but it was not till the 16th that they return'd to the Ships, after nine days absence. They had examined several arms or openings, which after running some distance inland closed, and they had left some extensive openings unexplored to the Eastward of this Port, where it was now intended to proceed to with the Ships. Having got everything ready for Sea, on the 18th we sail'd out of Port Quadra. The weather was fair and pleasant, indeed we had enjoy'd much fine weather in Port. After getting outside, by desire of Captn: Vancouver, we parted company with the Discovery, in order to examine an opening in the N. W. quarter, whilst she proceeded up an arm to which the Continent had been brought, to the Eastd. of Port Quadra. We cross'd the Streights with a fine Breeze, and entered the opening about 6 o'clock in the evening and came to an anchor for the night. In the morning boats were dispatched to examine the branches which run within this opening, which employ'd us till the 23rd. It is very extensive being full of Islands.[15] The land is delightful, being in many places clear and the soil so rich that the grass in several parts grew to man height. We were surprised in such a fine country to find scarce and inhabitants, not a smoke or a village was seen, and only two small canoes with 3 people in each were met by the Boats in all their cruizing; from these, three young Fawns just kill'd were purchased. We saw several Deer on the sides of the rising grounds, but could never kill any. The navigation in this place so full of Rocks and small Islands was intricate and dangerous. On the 21st we touch'd a Rock on one side, whilst at the other we had twenty-two fathoms water.

On the 23rd we again entered the Streights but a different opening to that we came in at. We cross'd over and about Noon got into the arm up which the Discovery went when we parted from her. Here we met with a small tribe of Indians who came off to sell a little fish, Bows & Arrows, and some few skins of Land Animals. We observ'd among them some articles we knew they must have got our of the Discovery, and they soon made sufficient (sic) that she was up the arm. The people spoke a different language from the Indians we saw at the entrance of Dufuca's Streights though little else about them appeared different for they were equally as dirty. It seemed evident that their intercourse with Ships had been limited (if indeed they ever had any) from their surprize and astonishment at many things, and their not having about them any European articles whatever except it might be a knife, but they had a very good idea of bartering and wou'd not part with anything without the value of it. Copper was yet the rage.

(To be continued.)

FOOTNOTES:

[147] The names here given of the Hawaiian Islands are not all recognizable, but this one is evidently the modern Oahu.

[148] This officer is always referred to as Mr. Paget. Captain George Vancouver, chief of the expedition, used the more familiar spelling and the world has long known him as Lieutenant Peter Puget.

[149] A form of jelly-fish. Other common names are sun-fish, sun-squalls and umbrella-jellies.

[150] This name was given to the Northwest coast of America by Sir Francis Drake two hundred years before this voyage.

[151] This name is still in use on the Southern coast of Oregon.

[152] Here is seen the reason why the expedition doubted the existence of a river there until Captain Robert Gray discovered and named the Columbia River during that same year.

[153] The family and the British Columbia map-makers are particular about this name being spelled Barkley. See Captain John T. Walbran's British Columbia Coast Names, Pp. 33-35.

[154] This name is also misspelled throughout. He refers to Captain Robert Gray.

[155] He refers to Clayoquot Sound but errs in making it a part of Barkley Sound.

[156] Like errors in other names, he leaves out a letter in that of Captain John Meares.

[157] A former name for Captain Cook's Cape Flattery. Vancouver mentions "Classet" as the Indian name, but in a footnote gives the name Cook had written on his chart.

[158] In 1788, Meares named this island "Tatoosh" after the Indian chief he found there. Vancouver calls it Tatooche. See Vancouver's Voyage (2nd Ed.), Volume II, p. 46. It is not clear where the writer got this name of Green Island.

[159] This rock was supposed to be the one referred to in the De Fuca record now supposed to be a myth. Vancouver refers to it in doubtful terms.

[160] The crew may have continued the use of this older Spanish name, but Vancouver in text and chart retained the name Port Discovery, which continues to the present time.

BOOK REVIEWS

THE CANOE AND THE SADDLE, OR KLALAM AND KLICKATAT. By Theodore Winthrop, to which are now first added his Western Letters and Journals. Edited, with an Introduction and Notes, by John H. Williams. With sixteen color plates and more than one hundred other illustrations. Royal 8vo. half vellum. (Tacoma, John H. Williams, Publisher, 1913. Pp. XXVI, 332. $5.00 net; express 30 cents extra.)

The number of books properly classed as "Northwest Americana" is surprisingly small.

Through the instrumentality of Mr. John H. Williams, of Tacoma, Winthrop's "Canoe and Saddle" enjoys the distinction of recently appearing in new form, enlarged, annotated and illustrated. The new book retains all we older men and women have prized for half a century, and, in addition, the author's complete Western travels are presented to us in a volume to delight every lover of good and beautiful books.

Mr. Williams' previous work had been good preparation for this still more important undertaking. A lifelong student and newspaper editor, he is not only an experienced writer, but also an enthusiast for the Northwest, to which he has given two notable books of his own, "The Mountain That Was 'God'" and "The Guardians of the Columbia." No other volumes so well and so briefly tell so much of the scenery, physical geography and Indian lore of our North Pacific Wonderland. It was natural that he should see in Winthrop's graphic story the foundation for an artistic book, which would, by reason of its added Winthrop material and its editor's notes and illustrations, be largely a new work.

Mr. Williams has restored in a sub title Winthrop's own name for the book, "Klalam and Klickatat."

Two survivors of that early period, Gen. Henry C. Hodges, who, as a lieutenant of the Fourth U. S. Infantry, was adjutant of Capt. McClellan's railway reconnaissance in the Cascades, and Col. E. Jay Allen, builder of the famous "Citizens' Road," which Winthrop describes with much humor, contribute interesting recollections of the brilliant young adventurer, and of events in which he and they played a part in that eventful summer.

In the spring of 1853, Theodore Winthrop, then only twenty-five, came to the Pacific Coast from Panama. Five years earlier he had been graduated from Yale, with honors in languages and history. Not of robust constitution, he sought health by life in the open air. Two years were passed in the south of Europe, mainly in travel on foot amid the Alps and in the Mediterranean countries. Study of the scenery and historical monuments of those lands developed a naturally poetic and imaginative mind, and prepared him to appreciate the vast panorama that spread before him as he traveled from the Isthmus to California, thence, after a brief stay in San Francisco, up the coast by steamer to the Columbia, overland from there to Puget Sound, and finally across the Cascades and through our great "Inland Empire," homeward bound, to Salt Lake and Fort Laramie. This journey of half a year, then almost unprecedented, is fully recorded in his letters and journals which Mr. Williams has recovered for us.

In these wanderings Winthrop visited the young communities of the Northwest, Portland, Salem, Vancouver, The Dalles, Olympia, Nisqually, Steilacoom, Port Townsend, Victoria. He studied its scenery, resources and people. He quickly won the regard of pioneer leaders, army officers, Hudson's Bay Company factors, and of the humbler settlers as well, by a hearty democratic appreciation of the meaning of their work in founding future states. It was just this quality, as Mr. Williams has well shown, that enabled Winthrop to understand the raw west. To a real liking for people add his well trained powers of observation, unfailing humor, a vivid imagination and a tireless love of adventure, and we have the secret of his success as a painter of the frontier and its life.

In his delightful introduction Mr. Williams points out and emphasizes these qualities:

"Winthrop was probably better fitted to study and portray the West than any other Eastern man who attempted to describe it. His books and still more his private letters and journals show him wholly free from that tenderfoot superiority of tone found in most of the contemporary writings of Eastern men who visited the frontier. In an age when sectionalism was fast driving toward civil war, his point of view was broadly national. His pride in his country as a whole had only been deepened by education and foreign travel. He had come home from Europe feeling the value to humanity of the struggle and opportunities presented by the conquest of the new continent. In the rough battle with the forest, in the stumpy farms on the little clearings, in the crude road that would link the infant settlements with the outside world, he recognized the very processes that had laid strong the foundations of the republic to which later he so gladly gave his life. Ungainly as was the present, this descendant of the great governors of Massachusetts and Connecticut saw in it the promise of a splendid and beneficent future.

"Most of our writers in the years preceding the Civil War were either occupied with sectional discussions and local traditions, or were looking to Europe and the past for their inspiration. * * * For fiction, our people read 'Uncle Tom's Cabin' and reprints of the English novelists. Our literature had not yet discovered the West. Winthrop's Western books, 'The Canoe and the Saddle' and 'John Brent,' minted new ore."

George William Curtis, who was Winthrop's neighbor on Staten Island and his closest friend in the years just before the war, bore similar testimony, in a conversation with Mr. Williams more than twenty years ago:

"Winthrop's death was as great a loss to American letters as was that of John Keats to English poetry. He was far ahead of his time in thinking continentally. Cut off before his prime, his books, brilliant as they are, are the books of a young man. But he had vision and power, and had he lived to improve his art, I have always believed that he might have become the strongest, because the most truly American, of our writers."

Readers of Books of Old Oregon are all familiar with the early "Canoe and Saddle." It was the only work in lighter vein descriptive of conditions on the ultimate frontier, when we had here a white population vastly outnumbered by the Indians. The new volume will appeal to surviving pioneers, to Native Sons and Daughters, and to all who are genuinely interested in Northwestern history.

The original "Canoe and Saddle" tells only of its author's last days in Washington Territory. It recounts his swift trip by boat, with the celebrated Clallam chief, the "Duke of York," from Port Townsend to Fort Nisqually, and thence under other Indian guidance across Naches Pass to The Dalles. For the second part of his journey he had as his guide a treacherous young Indian whom he calls "Loolowcan the Frowsy," but who was in real life, as Mr. Williams discovered from an entry in the old "Journal of Events" kept by the Hudson's Bay Company at Nisqually, no less notorious a character than Qualchen, son of the chief Owhi. Both of these Klickitats, father and son, are remembered as trouble-makers in our territorial history, and both paid with their lives for the parts they took in the great Indian war of 1855-7. The role played by Qualchen in murdering the Indian agent, A. J. Bolon, and thus starting that war, is now well known.

It is proof of Winthrop's nerve that even after he saw the shifty nature of his guide, he refused to heed the warnings of Allen and his fellow road-builders, whom he met in the Cascades, but pushed ahead with him over the mountains to the Yakima country, where white men were scarcer even than on the Sound. Later, he may have realized that but for the presence of McClellan's soldiers on the Naches, and for the long arm of the Hudson's Bay Company, which had outfitted him for his trip, he probably would have anticipated the fate of Bolon. But he tells of his adventure as gaily as if he had felt no danger, and with a zest that make his own enjoyment of its incidents contagious.

"The Canoe and the Saddle" was the first book to put our Northwestern scenery into literature. Its account of Puget Sound, of the Cascades with their forests, canyons, ranges and snow-peaks, and of the Columbia basin, stamps Winthrop as a true poet and lover of nature. No better descriptive writing has yet been inspired by the Northwest.

The original "Canoe and Saddle" had a supplement describing Panama as Winthrop saw it in 1852 and 1854. Mr. Williams has very properly omitted this, since it had no relevancy to the book; and he has substituted Winthrop's letters and journals, which, with other new matter already mentioned, make up more than a third of the volume. This part of the book is of especial value to students of Western history, and of absorbing interest to the few remaining pioneers who, like the writer, crossed the plains in a "prairie schooner."

In 1852, our wagon train was part of the great migration westward over South Pass in the Rockies. From Fort Hall we came across the Blue Mountains to The Dalles. A year later Winthrop traveled homeward practically over the same route. His journals, with their brief but illuminating descriptions of people and scenes that presented themselves as he rode swiftly eastward, bring back memories of our five months' journey along the old "Oregon Trail." Most of his names of men and places, his notes of the great army of settlers pushing forward to California and the Northwest, his accounts of the British recruits for Mormonism, which he later expanded in his stirring Western novel, "John Brent," and his pen-pictures of the wild lands that are even now just beginning to yield to irrigation and settlement,--all this will be appreciated by every immigrant of that early day. Allowing for their personal appeal to me as a pioneer, I still feel that Winthrop's letters and journals add as much to the value of Mr. Williams's edition as they do to its scope.

Winthrop's monologues in Chinook are idiomatically correct, but the proof-reading of the original was done by persons unfamiliar with the "jargon," and a number of typographical errors occurred. Unfortunately, some of these have been perpetuated in the new edition. The Chinook vocabulary however, has been revised and materially improved by Dr. C. M. Buchanan, Indian agent at Tulalip.

The editor's notes are accurate, succinct and interesting. He has happily kept in view the Eastern reader who knows little of the West, but he has not on that account overloaded the book with notes. Several passages, indeed, would bear further annotation. The appendixes are valuable for the light they throw on the methods of McClellan, the building of the heroic road across the Naches, our Indian place names, and other matters of historic interest.

Mr. Williams's success in selecting the illustrations testifies to experience and much study, and would alone make the volume noteworthy. The pictures are of great historical value, and they really illustrate the text. There are sixteen magnificent plates in color and forty-eight half-tones. These show the Sound, the Columbia, the Cascades with all their snow-peaks from Mt. Hood northward; many scenes of Indian life, our coast cities in their infancy, the army posts and Hudson's Bay forts. More than sixty line etchings in the text give us portraits of the important personages of the book, white and Indian. Several of the illustrations are from celebrated paintings, others from rare books, or from early photographs treasured by our Northwestern historical societies and museums, the National Museum at Washington, and the great American Museum of Natural History in New York. Mr. Williams himself made a trip with a photographer across Naches Pass and obtained splendid views of Winthrop's route through a region now rarely visited.

This book is of the highest value to students of our Western history, and of such beauty and interest as make it a joy to all readers. I bespeak for it a place in every public and home library in the Northwest.

CLARENCE B. BAGLEY.

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EARLY HISTORY OF IDAHO. By ex-Governor W. J. McConnell. (Caldwell, Idaho, The Caxton Printers, 1913. Pp. 420.)

It has been somewhat the fashion (and a very good fashion it is) of late years by retired public men, Governors, Senators and others, to leave in the form of reminiscences or histories the record of the events in which they were participants.

Among recent volumes in this field we find that W. J. McConnell, twice honored and Honorable, as Governor and Senator, has given the world a view of the Idaho of which he was one of the builders.

This volume may be considered as having official endorsement, for it is authorized by the Idaho legislature.

Governor McConnell is well qualified for the work. Long residence in the great state so well styled the "Gem of the Mountains," an intimate acquaintance with affairs from the days of the Vigilantes to date, an accurate memory, and a clear, simple and vivid style, all qualify the author to tell the story of Idaho.

Broadly speaking, we may note that the book consists of two main features. The first is a series of events in the days of the "bad man," the mining and Indian era. The second is largely composed of extracts from legislative sessions and judicial proceedings. In this material and the handling of it are both the strength and weakness of the book. For the account of the desperadoes, though vivid, interesting, and no doubt characteristic of that period, occupies so much space as to give a disproportionate importance to it. The extensive extracts from legislative and court proceedings, though valuable, lack the introductions and explanatory connections desirable for a continuous story. They therefore lack perspective and give a fragmentary impression. Moreover the two types of matter are rather incongruous, one being so much of a "Wild West" type of narrative and the other suggesting a small volume of session laws.

There are occasional slips in names and statements indicating imperfect proof-reading. On page 31 we find _William_ P. Hunt. It should be _Wilson_. On page 32 it is stated that the Hunt party was near the site of old Fort Boise on Dec. 24. This could not be possible for they were in the Grand Ronde on New Year's Day and had been struggling for many days along Snake River in the vicinity of the present Huntington and up Powder River into the present Baker Valley. On page 33 we find _Worth_ for _Wyeth_. We find Spalding spelled Spaulding, and De Smet appears as Demet.

But these and other slips are relatively of little moment and do not detract from the general interest and value of the volume.

Among the many items of interest in the history of legislative acts is the mention on page 370 of the fact that the Idaho Territorial Legislature acted as a divorce court and that a number of discordant couples were separated by act of legislature. One historical matter of much interest, which has almost drifted from the remembrance of the present time is the effort made in both Idaho and Washington, as well as Congress, to attach Northern Idaho to Washington, in 1885-6, and the final failure of the congressional bill to go into effect.

This book of Governor McConnell may certainly be regarded as a valuable contribution to the historical literature of our section.

W. D. LYMAN.

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FOLLOWING OLD TRAILS. By Arthur L. Stone. (Missoula, Montana, Morton J. Elrod, 1913. Pp. 304.)

The author of this book has been for some years and still is the editor of "The Missoulian," the leading daily newspaper of the Bitter Root Valley in Montana. From personal experiences and acquaintances he gradually accumulated the material for a series of articles entitled Old Trails, or Trail Stories, which appeared in the Sunday editions of his paper during the years 1911 and 1912. These articles, written in free newspaper style and without claim for historical accuracy, have now been gathered together in book form and published by Prof. Elrod of the University of Montana, this at the request of numerous residents of Western Montana, who recognized the value of the contributions and the wisdom of preserving them. In his foreword the author frankly states his reluctance to grant the request and the unworthiness of the material for book form, but has wisely refrained from any revision or amplification.

Mr. Stone has made good use of his acquaintance with localities and men and events prominent in the exploration and settlement and growth of Western Montana, and his book furnishes the reader with a glimpse of the wealth of historic material to be had for the digging in that comparatively new state. It has not been appreciated by many that in point of time the Indian trade near the head waters of Clark Fork of the Columbia antedated that at Astoria, and that the railroads traversing Montana follow for miles the lines of travel early in use by explorer, fur trader, missionary, prospector and immigrant. Many tracks of these various periods of pioneering have been actually traveled by Mr. Stone, in some instances with the very men who had used them during the fifties and sixties; of others he has learned from the lips of those yet living to tell the story, and of others he has read the authoritative sources. With Dr. Elliott Coues he personally followed the trail of Lewis and Clark through the Bitter Root Valley, with Judge Woody (a Montana pioneer of 1857 who contributed to this Quarterly in No. 4 of Vol. 3) he climbed Gibson Pass, the main range of the Rockies, with Duncan McDonald, who was born on the Salish reservation in 1849, he has traveled along the Jocko, and of the deeds of the Vigilantes he had the facts from the very men who took active part in that movement.

There are numerous errors apparent to the close student of history but these may be overlooked in an appreciation of the actual value of such a contribution, to the pioneer families of Montana to whom it is dedicated and to the large number of casual readers who get their first incentive for further reading and study from such a source. The book is plainly but well bound and illustrated. Doubtless the suggestion for its publication came from the meeting of the Society of Montana Pioneers at Missoula in September, 1913, which meeting it was the privilege of the writer of this review to attend, and its early appearance is an example of how they do things in Montana when they set out to.

T. C. ELLIOTT.

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PIONEER TALES OF THE OREGON TRAIL. By Charles Dawson. (Topeka. Crane and Company. 1912. Pp. 488.)

This book relates almost entirely to the Oregon Trail and other matters and people in Jefferson county, Nebraska. In fact, Jefferson county is made a secondary part of the title. It is full of incidents connected with the early settlements of that locality, in the 1850s, 1860s and into the 1870s. It goes back of those dates in telling of the coming of the Spaniards in the 1500s, of the French in the 1700s and of the Americans in the first years of the 1800s. The wars of the Indians and with the Indians occupy considerable space, and also the lawless acts of the white frontiersmen. The Trail is mentioned continually in connection with these events, and with the great movements of immigration to Oregon, Utah and California before the completion of the Union Pacific Railroad. The book contains a great number of short biographies, and sightly illustrations, chiefly portraits. No doubt this work is highly prized in its home locality, and in future years will there be looked upon as a first service historical authority.

The reviewer somewhat depreciates the use of "Trail" in connection with the magnificent highway referred to. "Trail" is a recent day appellation. It was the finest and greatest road in the United States, and probably in the world, being two thousand miles in length, of great width, six or eight teams driving abreast; of easy grades and of good, surface--in nowise resembling the ordinary understanding of a trail.

How truthful and reliable these Nebraska tales are it is, of course, impossible for one at this distance to say. We will suppose they are all right. Some other statements are not. What will be thought, for instance, of this sentence, taken from page 22: "Prior to Dr. White's band of colonists, a Dr. Whitman, who was a missionary in the Puget Sound country, where he had settled in 1835 with a colony of Americans, and where there were only about 150 white people living at this early date, was sent to Washington. D. C., to place the situation of that section before Congress, setting forth the fears of the American residents that England had intentions of forcibly adding this vast country to her domain."

THOMAS W. PROSCH.

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CONTEMPORARY HISTORY, 1877-1913. By Charles A. Beard, Associate Professor of Politics in Columbia University. (New York, The Macmillan Company, 1914, Pp. 397.)

Professor Beard, whose work in opening new paths in historical study ranks him among the most virile writers and thinkers, breaks another historical tradition in the present volume. Constantly being confronted by the facts that students know almost nothing of the elementary facts of American history since the Civil War, Professor Beard concluded to break down one reason for it--by presenting a handy guide to contemporary history.

This volume like all Professor Beard's writings is vigorous, stimulating and incisive. It is not meant to be the final word, but it is hoped that it will stimulate "on the part of the student some of that free play of mind which Matthew Arnold has shown to be so helpful in literary criticism." The work was well worth doing and has been exceptionally well done.

* * * * *

VIRGINIA UNDER THE STUARTS, 1607-1688. By Thomas J. Wertenbaker, Ph. D. (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1914. Pp. 271.)

Doctor Wertenbaker presents a neatly printed volume in which the story of Virginia's history is rewritten in the light of the results of modern research into the documentary side of Virginia's early colonial history. He has made no claims of originality but appreciating the need of a history of Virginia which takes into account the newer discoveries of manuscripts, legislative journals and letters, and the work put forth in monographs, he has rewritten the account. Students of Virginia history who have not had access to this new material, or the time to digest it will thoroughly appreciate Doctor Wertenbaker's services. May his good example be followed by others.

* * * * *

LES ETATS-UNIS D'AMERIQUE. By Baron D'Estournelles de Constant. (Paris, Librairie Armand Colin, 1913. Pp. 536. 5 fr.)

This volume of observations upon the United States is based upon the author's extended trip through this country in the year 1911. While on his journey he wrote a series of letters for publication in "Le Temps" of Paris and these letters have been revised and printed in book form. The volume forms a most interesting study of American characteristics as seen by this distinguished foreigner. With rare discernment he has caught the spirit of all that is best in our American life and the book should go far toward cementing the friendly relations existing between France and the United States. While written primarily for his own countrymen, it will be read with great pleasure by those whose activities are so appreciatively described. Particularly complimentary are the author's impressions of Seattle and the Pacific Northwest.

* * * * *

THE POWER OF IDEALS IN AMERICAN HISTORY. By E. D. Adams, Ph. D. Professor of History, Leland Stanford, Jr. University. (New Haven, Yale University Press, 1913. Pp. 159.)

Five lectures delivered at Yale University on The Responsibilities of Citizenship are collected by Professor Adams into a handsome and stimulating little volume. In a sense they are an offset to the prevailing emphasis in American History upon economic and geographic influences, for Professor Adams, without denying the influence of these factors, emphasizes the power of five ideals that have played a large part in American History. These ideals are nationality, anti-slavery, manifest destiny, religion and democracy.

* * * * *

LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS OF NORTHWEST HISTORY. By Glenn N. Ranck. (Vancouver, Washington, 1914. Pp. 152.)

The title does not fully cover this book and it is doubtful if any title could do so. It comprises a collection of Mr. Ranck's writings in prose and verse. Mr. Ranck was born in the city of Vancouver where he still lives. He served in the Spanish American war and has held many public offices including that of legislator and register of the United States Land Office. He has a lively interest in the dramatic incidents of Northwestern history and these he has tried to catch in the meshes of his verse and colorful prose.

The book makes an interesting addition to the growing literature of the Northwest. Future writers are sure to find helpful suggestions here of fact and fancy. Present day readers will find the book entertaining as it springs from one of the most historic portions of the Pacific Coast.

* * * * *

ANNUAL REPORT, 1911. VOLUME II. By American Historical Association. (Washington, 1913. Pp. 759.)

This is an important addition to Americana. It does not, however, touch the Northwest and therefore will receive no extended notice in this Quarterly. It comprises the correspondence of Robert Toombs, Alexander H. Stephens, and Howell Cobb.

* * * * *

LIST OF REFERENCES ON THE HISTORY OF THE WEST. By Frederick Jackson Turner. (Cambridge, Harvard University Press. 1913. Pp. 129.)

Professor Turner will participate in the summer sessions of the University of Oregon and the University of Washington during 1914. Thus the pamphlet, prepared for Harvard University, will have a distinct interest for many on the Pacific Coast. Aside from that peculiar interest it has an important value for all students and writers of Western history for he cites a wealth of authorities which he has grouped in handy workable form.

* * * * *

A HISTORY OF EDUCATION IN MODERN TIMES. By Frank Pierreport Graves. (New York, The Macmillan Company, 1913. Pp. 410. $1.10 net.)

This book does not particularly relate to the Pacific Coast, but it deserves mention here because the author was for a number of years President of the University of Washington. Dr. Graves now has five volumes to his credit mostly in this field of the history of education. His work is attracting favorable attention and has led to repeated promotions from one university to another, the last being to the University of Pennsylvania.

* * * * *

A HUMANITARIAN STUDY OF THE COMING IMMIGRATION PROBLEM ON THE PACIFIC COAST. By Charles W. Blanpied. (San Francisco, 1913, Pp. 63.)

This is a digest of the proceedings of the Pacific Coast Immigration Congress held in San Francisco, April 14-15, 1913, and of the Immigration Congress held in Tacoma, February 21-22, 1912. The chief value of the pamphlet lies in its reflection of the effort by the awakened citizenship of the Pacific Coast to prepare for problems that are sure to arise on the completion of the Panama canal.

* * * * *

REPORT OF THE MINISTER OF LANDS FOR THE PROVINCE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA FOR 1913. By William R. Ross. (Victoria. William H. Cullin, Printer to the King's Most Excellent Majesty, 1914. Pp. 505.)

With maps, illustrations, tables of statistics and voluminous descriptive matter, this book is useful to students as it covers what was once a part of the Old Oregon Country. The province of British Columbia does many things in this line and it always does them well.

* * * * *

THE UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1904. By David R. Francis. (St. Louis, Louisiana Purchase Exposition Company, 1913, 2 Volumes. Pp. 703 and 431.)

Since there have been two expositions in the Pacific Northwest and another, much larger one, is being built in San Francisco for the year 1915, these books have a distinct interest for the Pacific Coast. There is another and more intimate reason for such interest. The Western states participated in the Louisiana Purchase Exposition which facts are revealed in the letter press and the beautiful illustrations of the two large volumes. The books are sent with the compliments of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition Company and bear the autograph of its President, David R. Francis.

* * * * *

THE MOUNTAINEER, SECOND OLYMPIA NUMBER. (Seattle, The Mountaineers, Incorporated, 1913. Pp. 87.)

MAZAMA. (Portland, Oregon, The Mazamas, 1913. Pp. 85.)

SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN. JANUARY, 1914. (San Francisco, Sierra Club, 1914. Pp. 125-220.)

These three publications cover the last year's mountaineering in Washington, Oregon and California. They are all beautifully illustrated. With the exception of one article the contents of The Mountaineer are devoted wholly to the mountains, flowers, glaciers and rivers of Washington. The other two publications deal with their own localities and yet each of them carry articles also about mountain explorations in Washington. Readers of this Quarterly will therefore find valuable material in all three of these beautiful mountain books.

* * * * *

JOURNAL FROM DECEMBER, 1836, TO OCTOBER, 1837. By William H. Gray. (Walla Walla, Whitman College Quarterly, Volume XVI, No. 2. June, 1913. Pp. 79.)

Mr. Gray was the lay member of the famous Whitman mission. This fragment is all that is now known to be in existence of Gray's journal. It is here published for the first time. The manuscript was obtained from Mrs. Jacob Kamm (nee Caroline Gray) of Portland, Oregon. The major portion of the journal tells of a journey "back to the states" from the mission. But it also tells of doings at the missions of Whitman and Spalding and mentions a number of the Hudson's Bay Company men of that day. Whitman College is to be congratulated for giving the Northwest this interesting piece of source material.

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THE VANISHING RACE, THE LAST GREAT INDIAN COUNCIL. By Dr. Joseph K. Dixon. (New York. Doubleday, Page & Company, 1913. Pp. 231. $3.50.)

This is a most beautiful book of the Indian. The author had charge of Rodman Wanamaker's three expeditions to study the Indian. On these expeditions the author made some wonderfully good pictures of the Indian. Eighty photogravures of these pictures illustrate this book. They would tell the story without words. The frontispiece is "The Last Outpost" and the last picture is "The Empty Saddle." The letter press tells the story of a great, intelligent effort to help the Indian enter upon a new career as a citizen of the United States. The author, while passing through Seattle on his last expedition, told the present reviewer that he believed that if the United States had spent half as much time and effort on the citizenship of the Indian as had been spent on the negro half of our National Congress would now be composed of Indians. He is enthusiastic over the possible future of the Indian and his enthusiasm pervades the pages of this attractive and valuable book.

* * * * *

MICHIGAN HISTORICAL COMMISSION, AND SUGGESTIONS FOR LOCAL HISTORICAL SOCIETIES AND WRITERS IN MICHIGAN. By George Newman Fuller, Secretary. (Lansing, State Printers, 1913. Pp. 41 and 45.)

These are the first two bulletins of the Michigan Historical Commission. Their titles show how sensibly that state is proceeding in this important field of work.

* * * * *

Other Books Received

ALABAMA DEPARTMENT OF ARCHIVES AND HISTORY. Alabama Official and Statistical Register. Compiled by Thomas M. Owen. (Montgomery, Brown, 1913. Pp. 344.)

CLODD, EDWARD. The Childhood of the world. A simple account of man's origin and early history. (N. Y. Macmillan, 1914. Pp. 240. $1.25.)

DWIGHT, MARGARET VAN HORN. A Journey to Ohio in 1810. Edited by Max Farrand. (New Haven, Yale University Press, 1913. Pp. 64.)

FIELD MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. Annual Report for the year 1913. (Chicago, Field Museum, 1914. Pp. 273-363.)

HENGELMULLER, LADISLAS BARON. Hungary's Fight for National Existence; or, The History of the Great Uprising Led by Francis Rakoczi II, 1703-1711. (N. Y. Macmillan, 1913. Pp. 342. $3.25.)

INNES, ARTHUR D. History of England and the British Empire. To be in four volumes. Volume 1, to 1485; Volume 2, 1585-1688. (N. Y. Macmillan, 1913. Pp. 539; 553. Each, $1.60.)

INTERNATIONAL JOINT COMMISSION. Progress Report On the Reference by the United States and Canada in re Levels of the Lake of the Woods. (Washington Govt. 1914. Pp. 186.)

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Report for the year ending June 30, 1913. (Washington, Govt. 1913. Pp. 269.)

MACAULAY, LORD. History of England From the Accession of James II. Edited by Charles Harding Firth. To be in six volumes. (London, Macmillan, 1913. Volume 1. Pp. 516. $3.25.)

MORLEY, JOHN. On History and Politics. (N. Y. Macmillan, 1914. Pp. 201. $1.)

OGILVIE, WILLIAM. Early Days on the Yukon. The Story of its Gold Finds. (London, Lane, 1913. Pp. 306. $1.50.)

SEATTLE BAR ASSOCIATION. Annual Report, 1913. (Seattle, Association, 1913. Pp. 72.)

TAFT, WILLIAM HOWARD. Popular Government: Its Essence, Its Permanence and Its Perils. (New Haven, Yale University Press, 1913. Pp. 283. $1.15.)

VEDDER, HENRY C. The Reformation in Germany. (N. Y. Macmillan, 1914. Pp. 466. $3.)

WASHINGTON STATE BAR ASSOCIATION. Proceedings of the Twenty-Fifth Annual Convention, 1913. (Olympia, Association, 1913. Pp. 204.)

NEWS DEPARTMENT

Course in Current Events

The Department of History in the University of Washington has begun a course on Contemporary History running the second semester. The course is given by various men on problems of historical import of the last decade. Among the questions handled are: The Monroe Doctrine; China as a Republic; the Mexican Situation; the Undoing of Ireland; The Balkan Question; the Growth of a Religion of Democracy; the Economic Interpretation of History; the Relation of Natural Science to History; German Imperialism; etc. The course is open to all classes except the freshman; about one hundred students have elected the course. While the public increased the audience to about two hundred persons at each lecture.

History Teachers' Club

On Saturday noon, March 21st, at the Good Eats Cafeteria, Seattle, twelve history teachers of the grades, high schools and University met and discussed the need and desirability of the formation of a History Club. Such a club has had a successful life of six years at San Francisco dealing with history in the different trades and professions--men from these walks give the history men the value of history to their lines of work. This idea was accepted by those present on Saturday; and another question was urged as a worthy and vital question for mutual discussion: the relation of the three parts of the public school system to history teaching on the basis of the belief that a better understanding among the three sets of teachers would result in good to the pupils. It was unanimously voted to attempt such a club to deal in the beginning with these two subjects. The question of time, place of meeting, organization, and the first program was left to Mr. Flemming, Seattle, and his committee of three. He hopes to have the first meeting early in May in Seattle. It was also the hope that the Club could serve the interests of the teachers in the grades and high schools of Seattle, Tacoma, Everett, and other cities about the Sound, and the University. Professor J. N. Bowman, of the University, was elected temporary chairman.

Seattle Historical Society

A number of ladies, mostly of pioneer families, have organized and incorporated the Seattle Historical Society. The first officers selected are as follows: President, Mrs. Morgan J. Carkeek; vice-president, Mrs. William Pitt Trimble; secretary, Mrs. Redick H. McKee; treasurer, Mrs. William F. Prosser; historian, Mrs. Thomas W. Prosch; trustees, Judge C. H. Hanford, Judge George Donworth, Judge R. B. Albertson, Miss M. L. Denny, Lawrence J. Colman and Professor E. S. Meany. Manuscript records of the old pioneers are being collected, as also are pictures, books, diaries and relics. Cooperation has been cheerfully extended by Librarian W. E. Henry and Curator of the Museum F. S. Hall, of the University of Washington. That cooperation has been accepted and for the present, at least, the Society's collections will be cared for at the University. There is every indication that this new organization will do much toward awakening interest in the luring field of local history.

Death of an Efficient Man

While going home on the evening of November 1, A. F. Muhr dropped dead in the street car. The event proved a shock to a wide circle of friends and acquaintances. For many years Mr. Muhr had been in charge of the photographic studio of Edward S. Curtis. It was he who gave personal attention to the development of the negatives made in the field by Mr. Curtis for his monumental work on the North American Indian. In the prefaces of those great volumes, Mr. Curtis has frequently commended the skill, patience and efficiency of his prized assistant. Before coming to Seattle, Mr. Muhr had made a name for his own photographs of Indians, many of which received high awards at exhibitions. With all his talent he was a very modest man and was loved by all who knew him.

History of Thurston County

A brief prospectus from Olympia announces the fact that the Thurston County Pioneer Association plans to publish a volume in 1914 to contain the proceedings of the organization from its inception four years ago. There will be included personal reminiscences of old-time residents and other data, "the whole to form a beginning and foundation for the future permanent and reliable history of the county." The little prospectus is issued for the association and is signed by Allen Weir, secretary, and Mrs. G. E. Blankenship, treasurer. The scope of the proposed book will depend upon the response received from the prospectus.

Twenty-Ninth Annual Meeting of the American Historical Association

There are several matters pertaining to the twenty-ninth annual meeting of the American Historical Association which should be of interest to the historians of the Pacific Coast.

In the first place, notwithstanding the great distance to Charleston, South Carolina, there were three delegates from the Pacific Coast--Professors H. Morse Stephens and R. F. Schloz of the University of California and Professor Edmond S. Meany of the University of Washington.

During the last year efforts have been made to get a fuller expression of sentiment from the general membership as to the selection of officers. On a committee for that purpose Professor E. B. Krehbiel of Stanford University represented the Pacific Coast. At his request the members of the Association in the University of Washington held a meeting and by unanimous choice selected Professor George Lincoln Burr of Cornell for the position of second vice-president to be promoted, as is the custom, to the presidency. Others must have had the same thing in mind, for Professor Burr was regularly nominated and elected.

Professor H. Morse Stephens of the University of California was promoted to the first vice-presidency and will become president in 1915. That is especially fortunate as the Association will hold an extra meeting in San Francisco during the summer of that year. President Stephens will then be the chief host to the organization at his own home.

Similarly, Professor A. C. McLoughlin of the University of Chicago will serve as president during 1914, when the regular meeting will be held in Chicago.

Preparations are already under way for the special meeting in San Francisco in 1915. The chairman of the general committee is Rudolph Julius Taussig, Secretary of the Panama Pacific International Exposition Company, and Professor E. D. Adams of Stanford University is chairman of the programme committee. The programme will deal wholly with historical problems of countries bordering on the Pacific Ocean.

At the Charleston meeting the Pacific Coast was recognized further by having Professor H. E. Bolton of the University of California placed on the Historical Manuscripts Commission; F. J. Teggart of the University of California on the Committee on Bibliography; Professor William A. Morris of the University of California on the General Committee; Professor Joseph Schafer of the University of Oregon on the Committee on Nominations.

A citizen of the State of Washington on passing through Virginia will see much of interest to remind him of the great American for whom his State is named. The Virginia State Historical Society is housed in Richmond in the building used by General Robert E. Lee as a residence during the Civil War. Among the prized collections there is a musket carried to the Pacific Coast and back by a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

Probably the most interesting portion of the programmes at the South Carolina meetings was that devoted to military history. There were several papers relating to Charleston's part in the Civil War and during the same afternoon the entire convention was taken on an excursion to Fort Sumter, a memorable event for the northern visitors.

NORTHWESTERN HISTORY SYLLABUS

[The aim of this department is to furnish outlines that will aid those who wish to study the subject systematically. It is expected that its greatest use will be as a guide for members of women's clubs, literary societies, and classes in colleges or high schools. It will be a form of university extension without the theses and examinations necessary for the earning of credits toward a degree.]

IX. Territory of Oregon

1. Treaty of 1846. a. Northern boundary fixed. b. Accepted as a compromise. c. Really a diplomatic triumph.

2. Organic Law of Oregon. a. Congress passed the act, 14 August, 1848. b. Boundaries from 42 degrees to 49 degrees and from Rocky Mountains to Pacific Ocean.

3. First Officers. a. Governorship refused by Abraham Lincoln. b. Accepted by General Joseph Lane. c. Joseph Meek, United States Marshal. d. Samuel R. Thurston, Delegate to Congress.

4. Laws. a. Anti-slavery laws. b. New counties created.

5. Gold Excitement. a. Settlers diverted to California. b. Gold-dust currency. c. California precedes Oregon into Union.

6. Division of Oregon. a. Washington Territory created, 1853.

7. Indian Wars. a. Rogue River War. b. Other wars and treaties.

8. Oregon Attains Statehood. a. Date, February 14, 1859. b. First United States Senators c. Other officers of new state.

* * * * *

BIBLIOGRAPHY.--Books for the above outline are easily available in most of the libraries in the Northwest. New ones are appearing continually, but the ones cited below will cover the field satisfactorily.

BANCROFT, HUBERT HOWE. Works of. Vol. XXX. This is Vol. II. of his History of Oregon. It starts with "Condition of Affairs in 1848" and carries the narrative to the year 1888.

COMAN, KATHARINE. Economic Beginnings of the Far West. Vol. II. Pp. 113-166. This is one of the newer books. The chapter cited is entitled: "Acquisition of Oregon," the latter part of which bears especially on this outline.

DEADY, M. P. The Organic and Other General Laws of Oregon, 1845-1864. The official publication of Oregon laws, compiled by Judge Deady and published by H. L. Pittock, Public Printer, 1866, is a convenient form in which to study the laws of Oregon Territory.

JOHNSON, SIDONA V. A Short History of Oregon. Part Four of this compact little book deals with the portion of Oregon history under consideration.

MEANY, EDMOND S. History of the State of Washington. Consult chapter XV and the first part of chapter XVI.

SCHAFER, JOSEPH. A History of the Pacific Northwest. Chapters XIV, XV, and XVI will be helpful for this study.

WOODWARD, WALTER C. Political Parties in Oregon, 1843-1868. This new book should be in all Northwestern libraries. Its title conveys its true usefulness for a study of Oregon in territorial and early statehood days.

HISTORY TEACHERS' SECTION

The History Teachers' Section, inaugurated in this number, will be edited by various members of the editorial staff. The Section will be devoted to questions and problems of interest to the teacher of history in the high schools and colleges. This first number will be given to a survey of the magazines edited in the interest of the teaching of history.

* * * * *

The HISTORY TEACHERS MAGAZINE is edited by the McKinley Publishing Co., Philadelphia, under the supervision of a committee of the American Historical Association. The first number appeared September 1909, under the sole editorship of Dr. Albert E. McKinley; financial difficulties arose and caused the suspension of publication from June, 1911, to February, 1912, when it came under the present supervision of the American Historical Association. The contents cover a wide range of interests: Articles of a general character on subject matter or methodology of history; Reports from the Historical Field; Periodical literature; Book Reviews; and Recent Historical Publications. In the January, 1914, number, Waldo L. Cook, of the Springfield (Mass.) Republican, published the address he gave before the New England History Teachers' Association last April on The Press in its Relation to History. He discussed in full the "cause of the reporter," and concluded that the case "might also be said to be in the hands of you teachers of history; your ennobling influence upon the press of the future, and consequently upon the history which shall be born of the future, may become incalculable if your teaching is aflame with the ideal that facts are sacred and that truth is holy." In the next number Dr. Jameson, of the Carnegie Foundation, has an article on the Typical Steps of American Expansion wherein he traces through the expansion of American territory his contention that "the processes we have been following were mainly the fruit, not of artificial intrigue and political conspiracy, but of natural economic and social development, on the part of men chiefly engaged in the great human occupation of making a quiet living." Perhaps the most important article in the March number is A Hidden Cause of the Mexican War, by Moses W. Ware. In this article he brings out the fact of the Northern holdings of Texan securities, which joined with Southern interest in slavery; and these two independent interests were "each equally potent in involving the United States in the war with Mexico." Another article, in the February number, it is hoped will be read by every history teacher in the state: Edwin E. Slosson's A Stranger at School. It has been reprinted from _The Independent_. It must be read to be appreciated.

A series of articles have been appearing through several numbers dealing with the teaching of Greek History from several points of view of both subject matter and methods. The book reviews are of passing interest, while the recent historical publications are especially valuable. In the latter the announcements of the books of the month are classified according to American, Ancient, English, European, Medieval, Miscellaneous, Biography, Government and Politics.

* * * * *

The University of Texas is now publishing a "Texas History Teacher's Bulletin." The first number was issued November 15th, 1912; and four numbers have appeared so far. It is published quarterly by the History Department of the University and contains "brief, practical articles and suggestions, discussions of local problems, occasional reprints from The History Teachers' Magazine * * * and other educational journals, outlines, book lists and notes, and news of history teachers in Texas and elsewhere." The articles are of a very practical nature, dealing with the use of maps in the class work: Local History in various schools; use of note-books in high school work; parallel readings; efforts to improve history teaching; is questioning essential to good teaching; Historical Geography; sources; etc. It reprints for its readers the book publications of the History Teachers' Magazine.

* * * * *

The English "Historical Association," formed a few years ago, does not have as yet a regular publication. It publishes instead a series of leaflets on subjects of interest and value to the teachers. The following titles will give an indication of the nature: Source-books; some books on the teaching of History in Schools; the addresses of James Bryce on Teaching of History in Schools; Text-books; Supplementary Reading; the address of Thomas Hodgkin on the Teaching of History in Schools; The Teaching of Local History; Historical Maps and Atlases; Civics in the Schools; Recent British History; The Methods of Teaching History in Schools; Schools Historical Libraries. The publications of the Association may be secured through the History Teachers' Magazine.

* * * * *

In January, 1913, the Germans began the publication of a History Teachers' Magazine called _Vergangenheit und Gegenwart_. It is edited by Fritz Friedrich and Dr. Paul Ruhlmann, and is published by the Teubner house in Leipzig. It is issued bi-monthly and costs 6 marks a year. The character of the general articles may be seen from the following titles of some of the articles: The French Peasant before the Revolution; the new Munich history course of study; the history teaching in France; the colonization of North America; political training through the teaching of history; the burning of Rome and Nero's persecution of the Christians; the eastern border of German culture; the newspaper in the upper schools; the evolution of types of war-ships from Trafalgar to the present; State and Church; the History of Civilization in the teaching of History in the upper classes; and in the last number, March, 1914, there was published the translation of the presidential address before the Pacific Coast Branch of the American Historical Association at Berkeley, November, 1912, given by Professor A. B. Show, of Stanford University, on The New Culture-History in Germany. It was published in full in the History Teachers' Magazine for October, 1913.

Of especial value are the book reviews; practically half of the pages of each number are given to this subject. In the last number, for instance, the running comments and criticisms on books and historical literature are arranged in the following manner: Pre-historic and Ancient Archaeology, under which are grouped the new books on Ethnology, Races, German Antiquities, etc.; Methodology and Didactics; History in the Pedagogical Press. Another issue, May, 1913, arranged the reviews in this manner: Renaissance and Reformation; History of Religion and the Church; Methodology and Historiography. The number of books reviewed in the March, 1914, number was 108. The number of books reviewed in the various numbers run from 49 to 154: the average being about 90 books.

In the first issue of the magazine there was published a call, signed by 34 gymnasium and university teachers of the Empire, to the German history teachers for the formation of a German History Teachers' Association. The call was answered by 53 teachers and on September 29th, 1913, at the University of Marburg the Association was organized. Dr. Neubauer, of Frankfort am Mein, was elected president; Professor Ernst Bernheim, of Greifswald, vice-president; and Mr. Behrendt, of Leipzig, secretary. The principal address was given by Professor Bernheim on The Preparation of the History Teacher which ended in a lengthy discussion. The next important address was on the Teaching of History in "Prima," and this also resulted in an animated discussion. The whole proceedings of the Marburg convention was published as a special number of the Vergangenheit and Gegenwart in October, 1913.

The Washington Historical Quarterly

Board of Editors

CLARENCE B. BAGLEY, Seattle. J. N. BOWMAN, Seattle. T. C. ELLIOTT, Walla Walla. FRANK A. GOLDER, Pullman. CEYLON S. KINGSTON, Cheney. W. D. LYMAN, Walla Walla. EDWARD MCMAHON, Seattle. THOMAS W. PROSCH, Seattle. OLIVER H. RICHARDSON, Seattle. O. B. SPERLIN, Tacoma. E. O. S. SCHOLEFIELD, Victoria, B. C. ALLEN WEIR, Olympia.

Managing Editor

EDMOND S. MEANY

Business Manager

CHARLES W. SMITH

VOL. V NO. 3 JULY, 1914

_ISSUED QUARTERLY_

Contents

T. C. ELLIOTT Journal of John Work, Sept. 7th- Dec. 14th, 1825 163

C. O. ERMATINGER The Columbia River Under Hudson's Bay Company Rule 192

EDMOND S. MEANY Three Diplomats Prominent in the Oregon Question 207

DOCUMENTS--A New Vancouver Journal 215

BOOK REVIEWS 225

NEWS DEPARTMENT 232

NORTHWESTERN HISTORY SYLLABUS 235

HISTORY TEACHERS' SECTION 238

THE WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY

UNIVERSITY STATION

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON

Entered at the postoffice at Seattle as second-class mail matter.

The Washington University State Historical Society

* * * * *

Officers and Board of Trustees:

CLARENCE B. BAGLEY, President JUDGE JOHN P. HOYT, Vice-President JUDGE ROGER S. GREENE, Treasurer PROFESSOR EDMOND S. MEANY, Secretary JUDGE CORNELIUS H. HANFORD JUDGE THOMAS BURKE SAMUEL HILL

SEATTLE

DEPARTMENT OF PRINTING, UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON

1914

_Vol V., No. 3 July, 1914_

The Washington Historical Quarterly

JOURNAL OF JOHN WORK, SEPT. 7TH-DEC. 14TH, 1825

(Introduction and annotations by T. C. Elliot)

That part of this Journal covering the period from June 21st to Sept. 6th, including the introduction thereto, is already familiar to readers of Vol. V., No. 2 (April, 1914), of this Quarterly: a second installment is now given, and the third and last will appear in the October number. From September 7th to November 14th Mr. Work is in charge of Spokane House, the Hudson's Bay Company Trading Post located near the present city of Spokane, and his journal relates the day-to-day occurrences there, the arrival of the express from across the Rocky Mountains, the starting off of the clerk going to the Kootenay District for the winter, etc. On the 14th of November Mr. Work leaves Mr. Birnie at Spokane House and himself starts off for his winter station at Flathead Post or Fort on the Clark Fort of the Columbia. This journal enables us to identify positively the location of this Flathead Fort at this time, it being several miles further up the River than the original Saleesh House built on Thompson's Prairie or Plain by David Thompson in 1809. The parenthetical marks are used to designate words that are doubtful because indistinct in the original manuscript, of which this is a copy.

JOURNAL

(Continued from Page 115, Vol. V., No. 2.)

Wed.y. 7

Fine warm weather.

The three freemen got a small supply of articles to enable them to reach Mr. Ogden[161] and went off to join him.--I wrote to him by them.

Sent a man & an Indian off to the Kettle Falls with a supply of tools and articles of Trade for Mr. Dears.[162]

Some of the men were employed clearing out the store and opening & arranging some of the furs.--

Thursday 8

Sharp cold weather in the mornings but warm in the middle of the day. The men employed about the store.--I am busy making out a (scheme) to take an inventory and get the papers arranged.--

Little doing in the way of Trade, a few fish and roots but no beaver worth mentioning--A horse was traded today.

Friday 9

Overcast weather.

The men were employed airing and beating the Snake furs.--

Mr. Birnie & Kittson & I taking an inventory of the goods &c in the store.--

Saturday 10

Thunder & heavy showers of rain.

The Store is in such bad order that the least rain pours in through the roof that scarcely anything can be kept dry except it is covered. Part of the Snake beaver were put out in the morning to air and be beat but the rain coming on they had to be taken in.

We are getting a few bad salmon in the barrier, but the most of them are so bad that they can scarcely be eaten.

Sunday 11

Clear fine weather.

Monday 12

Clear fine weather.

The men employed airing and beating the beaver.--Some Pendent Oreille Indians arrived and traded about 20 beaver.

Tuesday 13

Overcast lowering weather.

The men employed about the store.

Wed.y. 14

Clear fine weather.

The people employed about the store, the remainder of the furs were aired and beat, they are now all piled bye in excellent order.

Getting very little fresh provisions, the barrier is producing nothing even of the bad salmon.

Thursd.y. 15

Sent a man and an Indian off to the Kettle Falls with some provisions & other articles required for the Express. Mr. McLeod's family[163] accompanied them.--

The smith & one man employed making Axes. The other man cleaning up the store & about the Fort. A few Nezperces Indians with a large band of horses arrived from the plains, they had been collecting roots and came on a visit. No furs.

Friday 16

Thunder & heavy showers of Rain.

The smith making Axes, the other men differently employed about the Fort.

Satd.y. 17

Pleasant weather.

Had horses brought from the plains to set out to the Kettle Falls tomorrow accompanied by Mr Kittson to send off the canoe with the Express to the Rocky Mountains & see how the people are getting on with the buildings.

After dark a man and an Indian arrived from Wallawalla in three days with letters from Fort Vancouver dated on the 5th inst. Some for Mr Ogden & some for the (mountain), with instructions to forward the former by a trusty person to meet Mr Ogden at the Flat Heads or carry them to him if it can be done with safety. I am also directed by Mr McLoughlin to stop the buildings at Kettle Falls till the arrival of the Express from across, because the site[164] pointed out for the Fort is on the South side of the River.--

I wrote to Mr Dease as I have to be off early in the morning, though the man will not get off for a day or two as his horses are fatigued.

Sunday 18

Foggy weather in the morning. Mr Kittson & I set out at 1/2 past 5 oclock from Spokane and arrived at the Kettle Falls at 1/2 past 6 in the evening which is good days ride. We had two horses each, we left the ones which we rode in the fore part of the day about half way, though they were not knocked up. We were only two hours from the South end of the long plain[165] to the Kettle Falls. The men who left Spokane on the 15th arrived last night.--

Monday 19

Cloudy weather.

Set the Express men to work to gum the boat and sent them off[166] at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. The crew consists of 8 men. The boat is not deep laden but a good deal lumbered on account of the passengers, Mr McLeod's wife & 2 children, Mr Ross's wife and 4 children & St. Martin & 1 child. The men have provisions, corn, pease, dry meat & dry salmon for 36 days. The despatches are in Pierre L'Etang's charge.--Two of the Express men were sick one with venereal, two others had to be sent in their place.--

Since I have been here last very little progress has been made in the building. Not a stick of the house is up yet nor will the timber be in readiness for some time, I expected the frame at least would have been up. The causes assigned for this slow progress is principally the want of a proper hand to lay out the work for the men. L. La Bonta it appears is quite unfit for this duty, the whole of the posts (14) were squared too small & others of a proper size had to be taken out of the woods.--J. B. Proveau is now laying out the work & the business is going better on. The timber for the frame is now pretty well advanced in readiness to put together, but only about the 1/3 of the filling up pieces are squared. Sawing also has gone on very slowly, only about 93 boards & planks are yet cut--the saw at first was badly sharpened, & some time was lost putting it in proper order. Some of the men were also often sick, or pretended to be so, & unfit for work. Certainly there is little work done for the number of men & times they were employed.

7 men since the 10th or 12th August and 9 more men since the 1st inst.

Tuesday 20th

Raining in the forepart of the day.--

Set out at 11 oclock on our return to Spokane & encamped at 7 at the Big Camass plain.[167]

Left directions with Mr Dears to keep the men at work a few days longer to have the timber for the store all in readiness to be put up in the spring if another situation does not be fixed upon. There is no other convenient spot near the fishing at the falls on which to build a fort. It will be necessary to call home the men to put the houses, etc., at Spokane in order to pass the winter.--Mr Dears is to be in readiness to proceed up the Pendent Oreville River when the men are called home.

Wed.y. 21

Foggy in the morning, fine weather afterwards.

Proceeded on our journey at 6 oclock and arrived at Spokane before 11. Mr. Kittson & I crossed the point from the (Buffau de Chaudin[168]), in 50 minutes.

Nothing material has occurred during our absence. By an Indian arrival lately from the Flat Heads it is reported that the Blackfeet have stolen the most of our peoples' horses which were in company with the F Head Indians. It seems the horses & some of the freemen who last left Mr Ogden were ahead of the Flat Head camp with some of the chiefs and that the women & people had stopped to gather berries while the horses went on a short distance ahead with (Revit)[169] & crossed a small River where the Blackfeet were lying in wait and drove them off. The F. Head chiefs, on the alarm being given, instantly pursued but could come up with only a few of the horses, and killed one of the thieves, and it is now reported that the F. Head chiefs are so exasperated that war is determined upon & that the Blackfeet will be attacked immediately. however this is only Indian reports.

The young Indian who was sent off with the despatches to Mr Ogden on the 28th Augt. is supposed to have reached the Flat Head camp some time ago.--

Thursday 22nd

Clear fine weather.

Part of the men here employed covering the store with mats, the others getting firewood.

Fresh provisions are now very scarce scarcely a sufficiency of trout and a small kind of salmon can be procured for on our table, and very few of the bad salmon are got so that the people are mostly fed on dry provisions.

Friday 23

Clear fine weather.

The people employed as yesterday, two covering the store with mats & two getting firewood.

Saturday 24

Clear fine weather.

Men employed as yesterday. Finished covering the store with mats.

Sunday 25

Weather as yesterday.

Part of the Nezperces Indians went off today. they have been here some time.

Monday 26

Fine weather.

Late last night Faneant one of Mr Ogden's men arrived from the Missouri with letters dated on the 11th inst--Mr. Ogden is now on his way with 20 men to Wallawalla by the Snake Country[170] and has sent orders here for the part of his outfit that is at this place, with about 50 horses, 20 saddles and appichimans, leather, cords, etc., to be forwarded to meet him at Wallawalla. he expects to reach that place about the 20th October. He also requests Mr Dears to be sent to meet him with the horses.--There will be only about 20 horses left, and the most of them unfit for any duty.--

Tuesday 27th

Clear fine pleasant weather.

Sent off an Indian to Wallawalla with Mr Ogden's disptaches, so that they may reach Mr Deane as soon as possible, that he may forward them to the sea if he deems it necessary & also have time to purchase horses for Mr Ogden.--An Indian with some horses was sent off to Kettle Falls with instructions for Mr Dears to get the potatoes put in a pit and well covered up so that the frost cannot injure them, that they may serve for seed next year. He is also to get the timber laid up in a proper manner, & come home as soon as possible with the men and all the tools.--We will have plenty of work for all the men here, preparing material for boats, & providing fuel for the winter and repairing the houses. These jobs require to be done before the Express arrives as the number of men allowed for this place will have plenty to do attending to the boat building and other necessary jobs during the winter. My object in having them at Kettle falls when I was last there was to save provisions & to have the material for them ready to set up. Mr Dears is directed to leave strict injunctions with the old chief to see that nothing that is left there be injured by the Inds. The tools are all to be brought home.

Wed.y. 28

Clear fine weather.

A few Indians coming & going, but very little doing in the way of trade. I am busy arranging the accounts, but the Inventory was so incorrectly taken in the spring and the goods disposed of in the beginning of the season so badly accounted for that, I cannot get any kind of a satisfactory account made out out.--

Thursday 29

Fine weather.

Had a man employed these two days past cutting (?) (?) into cords. An Ind. was employed, boiling gum.--Scarcely any fresh provisions. Nothing for the people, and but very little for our own table.

Friday 30th

Cloudy mild weather.

Visited the hay makers they will require a day or two yet to have a sufficiency made.

Octr. Satd.y. 1

Some rain in the night, cloudy mild weather afterwards.

Mr Dears and the men under his charge arrived from Kettle Falls with all their tools baggage etc. They were sent for in good time as they would have been obliged to come home or have had provisions sent to them as no more could be got there.--He took up the potatoes and put them bye in a little house that was built there by one of the men, the produce is only 13 kegs[171] from six that were sowed. they burried & (put) a good thickness of earth over them that the frost may not injure them so that they may serve for seed next year if the Indians do not steal them in the winter. The old chief is directed to take particular care of them. The timber &c is also left under his charge, and he promised to take good care of it as well as the potatoes.

It would require ten men, 8 or 10 days yet to have the store up and ready for covering the roof. The frames are now all ready for setting up and about the one half of the filling up pieces ready, of the covering planks 18 feet long are ready plank of ten feet for doors &c and boards of two feet for the gable ends are also ready.--There have been 7 men at work from the 10 or 12 of Augt. to the 30th. 16 & part of the time 17 from the 1st to 19th Sept. and 9 men from the 19th of Sept to the 28th were employed doing this work.--had there been an experienced hand to lay out the work for the men much more would have been done.--

We will have full employment for all the men now till the Express arrives preparing material for boats, making cor(r)als, getting firewood, and putting the houses in order for the winter, these works will require to be done now, as there will not be enough of people here to attend to them in winter.--

Sunday 2nd.

Heavy rain in the night & forepart of the day.--

The Indian who was sent to Kettle Falls with the horses did not return till today. One of his horses which he had to leave by the way was stolen by an Indian & taken to the Chutes, he said he had taken him in revenge for a quarrel he had with one of the women of the fort from whom he got a bloody face, this happened only a few days ago.

Monday 3

Fair mild weather.

Had four of the men off seeking timber to saw for boats, they felled nine trees none of which would serve, they are a good distance up along the River seeking it.[172] Wood of the dimensions required, 40 feet long & 14 inches square, is difficult to find.

The most of the others were employed getting firewood, they tried to raft in the morning but the wood is so far from the water side and the river so shallow that they could make nothing of it & had to commence cutting cord wood which will have to be carted[173] home by horses.

Tuesday 4

Fine pleasant weather.

The men employed as yesterday, those in search of the boat timber found three trees suitable for the purpose & have made some progress in squaring them.

Wed.y. 5th.

Clear fine weather.

Two more men were sent to assist the squarers. The others were employed taking up the potatoes, the crop is but very indifferent only about 28 kgs from 5 that were sowed, they had begun to grow again & some of them were budded several inches.

Prepared & tied up sundry articles to be sent off tomorrow to Nezperces for the Snake expedition, the horses were brought home in the evening to be ready.--

Thursday 6

Sharp frost in the morning.--

The Indian Charlie who is to accompany the people to Nezperces did not arrive as he had promised and one of the men's horses being lost, deferred sending the party off till tomorrow.

The men were sent off to assist in getting home the timber, they got it in and down part of the way. The River is very shallow & it is difficult getting it down the rapids.

Friday 7

Weather as yesterday.

Sent off the party to Nezperces at 8 oclock, it consists of Messrs. Kittson, Dears, their wives[174], six men & 2 Indians, with 50 horses 18 of which were loaded, the loads are not heavy. Mr Kittson, 4 of the men and 1 Indian are to return, some of the horses are to be brought back if they can be spared. Mr Dears & the other two men who belong to the Snake expedition are to remain.--The party are well armed and I think sufficiently strong to pass through the Indians with safety.

The men at the Fort got home the timber and were afterwards employed getting wood for a sawpit.

Trade has been improving a little for some time past, a few beaver are coming in daily.--No fresh provisions, this will likely be a starving winter with the Indians, they are getting no bad salmon, formerly at this season they used to be abundant.

By the old Kettle Falls chief I sent a note to be handed to the Gentlemen coming in with the Express.--It was intended that some one would, in compliance with the Governors orders, would have gone up the Pedent Oreille River to examine it. Mr Dears was to have gone, but his having to go to Nezperces prevented it. Mr Kittson in consequence of a hurt in the foot received by a fall last winter of which he is not yet thoroughly recovered & which prevents him from undertaking any journey on foot of any extent he was incapable of going, moreover it was considered necessary that for the more safe conveyance of the property to WallaWalla & the safe return of the people who have to come back, that he should (mak) (an effort to?) accompany the party. Mr. Birnie declared himself totally incapable of embarking in a small Indian canoe & could not undertake the trip but in a large canoe with at least four men, from the press of business at present, & a great deal of work being absolutely necessary to be done before winter commences it is impossible to spare the men, the examining the River must, therefore be deferred until next season. I am sorry it is out of our power to execute the Govrs instructions[175], though as we are at present situated, not having been able to remove the Fort, the trade can sustain no injury by the river not being examined this season, for even were the River navigable, the old rout would be preferable.

Satd.y. 8

Cloudy cold weather.

Some of the men employed finished the sawpit & getting everything in readiness to commence sawing on Monday.--The others cutting firewood.

Sunday 9

Weather as yesterday, some rain in the night.--

Monday 10

Cloudy cold weather, showers of rain & hail, rain in the night.

Men employed as follows.--Two sawing wood for boats, 2 seeking stem and stern posts, and six cutting wood for coals. The sawyers got on pretty well. The wood for stem & stern posts was also found.

Tuesday 11

Cold showery weather.

Sent off 4 men with 6 horses to seek cedar for boat timber. 4 were employed cutting wood for coals & 2 sawing.

Wed.y. 12

Heavy rain the greater part of the day.

Men employed as yesterday, but on account of the bad weather, both the wood cutters and sawyers were stopped a considerable time.--A sufficiency of wood is cut for the coals, but they have yet to build it into a pit or furnace.

Thursday 13

Heavy rain the greater part of the day. The rain kept the people idle a considerable part of the day. With this unfavourable weather the work is getting on very slowly.

Friday 14th

Cloudy fair weather.

The woodmen finished arranging the wood for the coals, they are now ready to set fire to. Those who went off on tuesday returned with the wood for boat timber sufficient for 4 boats they would have been back sooner had it not been for the bad weather. The sawyers got on pretty well, but unfortunately one of the logs which we had so much trouble getting, turns out to be rotten in the heart, it was sound at both ends. It will not answer the purpose & finding trees of a proper size & getting them home is attended with a good deal of difficulty.

Satd.y. 15

Cloudy fair weather.

Four men employed squaring a piece of timber 40 feet long, 12 inches wide and 6 thick to make up for the boards that are deficient in the one that was rotten. Two others of the men brought home some white earth to whitewash the houses. The sawyers made about 120 feet today.

Sunday 16

Wather as yesterday.

Monday 17

Cloudy fair weather.

The men brought home the log which was squared on Saturday.--Afterwards 6 were employed cutting firewood, 2 cutting wheels for a truck, to cart home wood & 2 sawing. It requires all hands to be employed at firewood as none was cut in summer it being supposed that the fort was going to be removed.

Tuesday 18

Cloudy pleasant weather, frost in the night & foggy in the morning.--

Men employed as yesterday. The sawyers made about 110 feet. The Indians had taken away the canoe so that the men could not get home the wheels after they were cut.

Old Philip occasionally catches a few little fish with the scoop net which with a choice trout got from the Indians serves on our table but the people are fed entirely on dry provisions.

Wed.y. 19

Cloudy weather.

Men employed as yesterday. Mr Kittson and his party arrived from WallaWalla[176] in 5 days. All the property &c reached that place safe.

He has letters from Dr McLaughlin and Mr Dease, the former had just arrived at WallaWalla and intimates that he will probably visit[177] this place to meet the Express.--Mr Kittson brought five horses & four men back with him, two of the men which were sent (Cender) and (Laduoite), were exchanged for Wagner and Pierre, the former is sent here by way of punishment for disobedience of orders.--Mr. Kittson had six horses with him but he had to leave one of them by the way, which the Indians promised to take back. So that 5 will have to be deducted from the number sent.

Thursday 20

Fine weather.

The four men who arrived yesterday employed packing up saddles. appichimans, cords &c for N. Caledonia & Thompson's River, which are to be sent to the Forks to be forwarded to Okanogan by the Express boat. Our men employed white washing the Fort, the others employed sawing & cutting wood as yesterday.

Friday 21

Weather as yesterday.

Men employed as yesterday. Finished packing the saddles appichimans &c--and sent a man & an Indian off to the Plains[178] for the horses to send off to the Forks tomorrow.

One of the (?) Soteaux who has been here some time set off in the evening to the Flat Heads with several of the Spokane Indians. he got a small supply of ammunition and other necessary articles. Mr. Ogden requested this man to be sent to him to Wallawalla but we could not get him prevailed on to go, he is an Indian and it is useless to withhold these supplies as he would have gone off without them & in sulks & probably hunted more during winter. We endeavored to detain him till the arrival of the Express but he would not stop.--

Saturday 22

Cloudy fine weather.

Part of the men employed cleaning about the Fort, the others as before.

Sent off J. B. Proveau, Louis (Shaegockatsta) and two Indians (one of them the chief of this place.) to the Forks with 16 horses loaded with the appichimans saddles &c for New Caledonia & Thompsons River. The people are to remain at the Forks till the Express arrives.

Sunday 23

Clear pleasant weather.

Some Nezperces Indians are now driving towards the Fort.

Monday 24

Pleasant weather.

Two men employed sawing, 2 beating & changing the furs to another place, 5 cutting wood, 1 making wheels & arranging a carriage for wood, 2 sundry jobs.--The sawyers finished the wood for 3 boats, in all 73 boards 6 Inches wide and 40 feet long & 3 broad pieces for keels 40 feet long & 14 Inches wide, and 6 pieces for gunwales 40 feet long & 2 Inches wide in 15 days, they worked well, they were retarded a good deal by bad weather when they commenced.

Sunday 25

Clear pleasant weather.

The sawyers squaring two trees for plank to make a stern box for the boat timber. 1 man carting home wood, the other employed as yesterday.

Wedy 26

Frosty in the morning fine weather afterwards.

Two of the men employed covering the dwelling house with mats, the sawyers squared a log for boards to make a stearing box, the others cutting cord wood.

Thursday 27

Weather as yesterday.

The sawyers sawing, the others employd as yesterday--The horse keeper came home & reported that three of his horses have strayed.--

Friday 28

Weather as yesterday.

The men employed as yesterday.

Old Philip & another man finished covering the dwelling house with mats,--and afterwards commenced burning a pit of coals.

Saturday 29th

Overcast mild weather.

Men employed as before. The sawyers brought home another log for a few more boards.--

Sunday 30

Clear mild weather.

Employed all day taking an Inventory of the goods in the store.

Monday 31

Mild pleasant weather. At midnight last night, A. R. McLeod[179] Esq. C. T. & Mr. F. Ermatinger arrived from the Forks with the Express. Mr. Black & Mr. E. Ermatinger remained at the Forks.--Towards evening Mr. McLeod with three men and an Indian on horseback set out for Nezperces to meet Mr McLaughlin with the despatches. Three men were also sent off with provisions for the people at the Forks and to bring up some property that has been brought back from the Rocky mountains.

One of the passengers St. Martin who was going out, was drowned crossing a small creek near the mountains. By Mr. McLeod I wrote to Mr McLaughlin and to Mr Dease, apprising them that it will be incumbent on Mr Dease who is to come & take charge of this District, to make all the Expedition in his power that the Flat Head people may get off in sufficient time not to be stopped by the ice.

Tuesday 1st (November)

Overcast mild weather.

Messrs. Kittson[180] and Ermatinger left for the Forks the former to return with the horses and property, the latter to accompany the boats to Okanagan.

The men remaining at the Fort were employed cutting & carting home wood. Mr Birnie & I finished taking the invtry.

Wed.y. 2

Overcast cold weather.

The men employed as yesterday. Two attending the coal pit that is burning, (charcoal) 3 cutting wood and 1 carting.

Thursday 3

Overcast cold weather, some snow in the night and the morning.

Mr. Kittson arrived from the Forks. he left the men behind they will not arrive till tomorrow.--The Express gentlemen also left the Forks yesterday. From some misunderstanding between Mr. McLeod & Mr.

Black respecting a man P. Wagner who was exchanged for one of the Spokane men at Wallawalla by way of punishment for disobedience of orders, & was to be taken to Okanagan taken in his place, and the Spokane man's place supplied by one of the new hands coming in, instead of which Wagner is taken on & no one left in his place. altho' Mr Kittson explained how it stood yet he said he had no orders, tho' mr. McLeod mentioned the circumstance to him in his letter. We will be a man short unless one is sent from Wallawalla.

Friday 4

Stormy cold weather, snowing.

The men arrived with the property from the Forks. they were so benumbed with cold that they could scarcely untie the loads.--the outside of some of the Bales were wet with soft rain & snow.

Satd.y. 5th

Snowing & raw cold weather, winter like weather.

Dilivered the Kootany outfit to Mr Kittson.--

The men that arrived yesterday not employed. The carter had to stop work, the snow clogged so to the wheels that he could not work.

Sunday 6th

Stormy, cold, snowing weather.

There is a good thickness of snow on the ground.--

Monday 7

Disagreeable weather soft snow and sleet.

The horses were brought home from the plains[181] & all the Kootany outfit prepared to be sent off tomorrow.

The Coer de Alan chief brought home three of our horses which have been missing some time. One of them was thought had been stolen.--two or three more have been missing some days.--

Tuesday 8

Some showers of rain and sleet & overcast foggy weather.

Mr. Kittson sent off his people, five men with nine horses and the Kootany outfit on horses to the Forks where they are to embark in a canoe or small boat and proceed up the Columbia to the entrance of McGillivrays Kootany[182] River, up which they are to continue to a place called the falls[183] about half a days march below the Old Fort, where they are to build. This road is taken in obedience to orders received from Governor Simpson.[184] By this route a considerable deal of horse carriage will be avoided, and the Fort being situated farther down the river will be the means of keeping the Indians in a part of the country, where beaver are more numerous than where they usually hunt near the Flat Head lands. Another advantage attending this track is that if necessary they will be able to put out much earlier in the spring. The only objection to this road is running the risk of being taken by the ice on account of the lateness of the season, as the River is not known but very imperfectly except from Indian reports, but as they will not be deep laden being only 14 or 16 pieces including baggage & provisions and as there are five men (an additional one being sent on account of the road not being known, & buildings to be erected) it is expected they will still arrive before the ice sets in calculating by the other road the distance cannot be very long.

Wed.y. 9

Foggy soft mild weather.

One man employed repairing & making horse harness, one filling up a pit in the boat house,[185] and one working about the store, two men are still attending the coal pit, which is not yet burnt out.

Put aside the greater part of the Outfit for the Flat Heads.

Thursday 10

Weather as yesterday--The snow has not all disappeared off the hills & very hollow places yet--

One man employed cutting wood, the other as yesterday--

Mr Kittson started for the Forks after his men, where he expects to arrive this evening, and embark tomorrow, the men will probably arrive a little before him and be employed gumming the boats.--Mr Kittson is not certain until he arrives at the Forks, whether he will take a canoe or a small boat, the men proposed taking the boat as it would be able to sustain much more injury than the canoe, and they thought they would be able to carry it, when it was necessary to carry it. I recommended Mr Kittson to be certain before he left the Forks whether they will be able to carry it.

Friday 11

Excessive heavy rain in the night, overcast mild weather during the day.

Two men cutting wood & 1 carting it home to fill up the sides of the house where the boats are to be built. Philip came home from his coal pit having finished it, he and another man have been employed at this job 15 days. Late last night an Indn. arrivd from Okanagan for a horse that was promised Mr Ermatinger, with which we sent off the Indn. this morning.

Satd.y. 12

Mild pleasant weather during the day. Sharp frost in the night.

Three men employed at wood for the boat house as yesterday--Philip doing little jobs in the forge, & Canotte tieing up the pieces of the Flat Head outfit.

An Indian arrived from the Forks with the horses that took down the Kootany outfit and brought a letter from Mr Kittson in which he informs us that the men were perfectly able to carry the boat and that he was going to take it, & expected to get on well--he would be off about noon yesterday.

In the evening the men who accompanied Mr McLeod arrived from WallaWalla, and brought letters from Mr Dease[186] informing us that in consequence of Mr Ogden not having yet arrived he was prevented from setting out for this place but directing me to to lose no time in setting out for the F. Heads and to leave Mr Birnie in charge of this place.--And also with directions to leave him any notes that may be useful to him.--

The horses from both places are much fatigued. Sent them off late in the evening to the plains.--

Sunday 13

Overcast mild weather.

Busy employed getting everything ready to set out to the Flat Heads[187] tomorrow. The horses were brought home in the evening they are so very lean & weak that we will scarcely get 12 the number required to carry the outfit and baggage across the portage able to go.

I have all the papers &c in readiness to give Mr Dease all the information I can on his arrival, and requested Mr Birnie who is well acquainted with the place and the routine of the business to explain everything to him.

We will be compelled to take 8 men up as fewer would not be able to work the canoes, this will leave only 2 men here, but as many as possible must be sent down from the F. Heads as soon as we arrived.

Monday 14

Foggy soft weather.

Set out with the people before noon for the Flat Heads, and encamped at the Horse Plains,[188] which is but a short journey but, as the horses are very lean & did not feed last night they require to feed.

The Horses that remain except the 2 (carters) and 6 that are missing were put under charge of the Senchos chief who is to keep them during the winter.

Tuesday 15

Proceeded on our journey at 8 oclock and encamped at the little River[189] at the farthest end of the Coer de Alan plain at 3, the horses much fatigued.

Found four of our horses that were missing in the plain & 1 where we slept last night, the other is in the plains at the Chutes,[190] which is the whole that was missing.

(Le Course's) horse strayed in the night, he was searching for him all day without success, it was dark when he arrived at the camp.

Two of the men Paul and Felix were about all night. Paul was on a marrying excursion and had bargained with an Indian for his sister and paid him the articles stipulated for, but on coming a little further on passing the lodge of the girl's mother, who it seems had received nothing, she objected to the girl going and Paul much disappointed had to come away and leave her & the property too.

Wed.y. 16

Soft mild weather, heavy fog like drizzling rain.

Continued on journey before 8 oclock and encamped at 3 at the rat Lake[191] though but a short journey the horses much fatigued.--

In the evening Conoth one of the men killed 2 geese.--(Charlo) the Iroquoy was off seeking Deer but without success.

Thursd. y. 17

Sharp frost in the night fine clear weather all day.

Resumed our journey before 8 oclock and reached the end of the Portage[192] after 10 when the canoes were immediately got out of the woods and the men distributed into crews and busily employed repairing the canoes arranging paddles poles &c. The saddles appichimans &c were tied up ready to send off with an Indian who came to take home the horses.

I had intended to take four canoes as they would be all required to bring down the fall trade & for the spring, but on account of the lateness of the season and the length of time it would take going up with two men per canoe, I am induced to alter my plans & take only three, we will then have 3 men per canoe including an Indian who is going up.

A woman who is going this road to join one of the Cootenay men ( ), very shortly after arriving at the camp brought forth a child, and seemed attending to her little affairs during the day afterwards as if nothing had happened.

Friday 18

Some sleet and rain in the morning. foggy soft weather afterwards.

Everything being ready & the canoes loaded, we embarked before 8 oclock, and made a good days work, as we encamped at the old Fort[193] at the upper end of the Lake, it was past 4 oclock when we encamped, fortunately it was calm when we crossed the lake, we were retarded a little at the sandy point[194] by the shallowness of the water.

I had first intended to take four canoes with two men in each, but considering that it would take a long time to get up so weakly manned at this late season. I altered my plan & took only three, we have now three men in each and an Indian that it going up with us making the 9th man.

Passed some Indians only one of whom we spoke to him we induced to tell all he knew, that Mr. Kittson had taken another rout that the Kootenies would find him below the Chutes[195] at the place appointed.

Before we embarked in the morning sent off the Indians who came from the Fort for the purpose, with the horses saddles, appichimans, cords, in all 20 horses including the Company's 13. Messrs. McDonald[196] Kittson & myself 3 Men 4 & Indian 3, besides he is to take 5 by the way, 4 from the Coeur de Alan plains & 1 from our first encampment, these are the horses that were strayed, three are now missing now.

Satd.y. 19

Soft foggy weather cold in the morning.

Embarked a little past six oclock & encamped a little past 3 above the (Lower) Rapid[197], to get the canoes gummed as they had become very leaky.--This is a pretty good days work at this late season.

Sunday 20

Blowing fresh in the night some rain. Mild foggy weather during the day.

It was near 7 oclock when we embarked owing to the bad road we had to pass--it required to be broad daylight--We were detained two hours gumming Chala's canoe, which retarded us considerably, yet we got over the Stony Island portage & encamped near 4 oclock at its upper end where all the canoes were gummed.

Monday 21

Soft weather but raw and cold.

Embarked past 6 oclock, and were detained an hour gumming Charla's canoe again, and again encamped a little below the barrier Rivers[198] a little past 2 oclock to get the canoes thoroughly gummed, it was night by the time this business was completed.--Saw 2 deer but could not approach them.

Tuesday 22

Raw cold foggy weather.

Embarked a little past 6 oclock and encamped before 4, (in order to join the canoes), a little below the Chutes. Notwithstanding that the canoes were gummed yesterday evening an hour was lost gumming Chala's one shortly after we started. had it not been for these delays we would have been past the Chutes.

Wed.y. 23

Foggy in the morning, cloudy pleasant weather afterwards. This is the only day the sun shone occasionally since we left Spokane.

Continued our route at 6 oclock reached the Chutes[199] at, had canoes and all carried across & the canoes gummed & reembarked at 12 and encamped at the upper end of Thompsons[200] near 4.--We took up some goods a barrel of powder, 2 traps and two bags of ball and shot mixed that were burried at a rapid a little above the Chutes. Though these things were burried in a dry place the bags that contained the ball were completely rotten, and the hoops on the keg so rotten that it hardly held together till the powder was got emptied into a bag. Property hidden this way ought to have wood all round it on every side so that the earth could not touch it, otherwise it will in a very short time be rotten and spoiled.

Some Indians and a freeman visited us shortly after we encamped. From the former we got 4 small trout and a bale of meat which was very acceptable to the men as they have had nothing but dry salmon since they left the Fort. By these people we learn that the Flat Heads are not yet arrived, but that the Pendent Orielles are a little above the Fort. The two men whom Mr Ogden[201] sent with the F Heads to take up the beaver which he hid found them all safe and are on their way in with them.

Gave the Indians a little Tobacco.

Thursday 24

Sharp frost in the forepart of the night rain afterwards,--foggy in the morning cloudy in the afternoon.--

Embarked at a little past 6 oclock and arrived at the Fort[202] at 11. The houses are all standing but without doors or windows & all the floors torn up by the Indians scouting for anything that might be under them. Some of the pieces were burned & marks of where a fire had been made in the dwelling house that had the wood been dry would have destroyed all the buildings.--Some of the doors could not be found & several empty kegs which had been left here were brok to pieces. The men were employed the afterpart of the day fixing doors to the store and laying the floors. The store was got temporarily closed and the goods stowed in it.

Two Indians who were here went off to the Pendant Oreille camp with whom a piece of Tobacco was sent to the three principal men.--And notice sent them that we would be ready to trade tomorrow or next day when they chose to come.--

Friday 25

Snow in the night & morning the most of which had thawed & disappeared on the low grounds towards evening.

The men employed arranging their axes and afterwards squaring planks for doors &--.

An Indian one of the Pendant Oreille chiefs arrived to enquire when we would be ready to trade, though word had been sent to them yesterday that we were ready when they chose to come. Gave him a little tobacco when he set off & a few balls and Powder to send some of his young men to get some fresh meat.

A young man also came with a present of 4 fresh buffalo tongues.

Saturday 26

Disagreeable weather with snow and sleet the forepart of the day but fair in the afternoon.

Had the men employed making doors and putting the houses in order.

The Indians began to arrive about noon and a brisk trade was immediately commenced and continued on till it was getting dark. I am unable to ascertain exactly the amount of the days trade, but there are upwards of 340 beaver skins and nearly 40 bales of meat. There was a great demand for guns and Tobacco.--The Indians as is the case still when a stranger arrives among them, complain about being harder dealt with than heretofore, however they seemed well pleased notwithstanding that (not?) a single item of their (prices) demanded would be abated.

Sunday 27

Sharp frost in the night. Mild pleasant weather during the day.

The Indians arrived in the morning & trade was resumed and continued on nearly all day, but not so brisk as yesterday. The Indians say their trade is nearly finished.--Some parchment skins were traded to make windows for the houses and some mats to cover them of which they are in want as the wet drips through the roofs.

A present of 16 inches of Tobacco to each of the 3 F. H. chiefs was given to an Indian to carry to them and to apprise them of our arrival.

The Indians with whom we have been trading these two days are principally Pendent Oreilles or Collespellums, with a few Flat Heads, or Asschesh,[203], and some Spokans.--

Monday 28

Thin frost in the night, fine mild weather during the day.

Two men employed assorting & examining the meat, the others finishing the doors putting in windows, & covering the house with mats.--

A few straggling Indians traded a little meat and a few Beaver Skins and appichimans. The Indians are all encamped at some distance[204] from the Fort, there is only one lodge here.--

Tuesdy 29

Frost in the night. Pleasant mild weather during the day.

The men differently employed as yesterday. The meat is not all yet assorted.

La (Broch), one of the principal F. Head chiefs arrived with 8 or 9 men who traded 16 bales meat & 13 Beaver skins, & a few appichimans.

A Kootany Indian arrived in the morning from the camp of a small party of that tribe that is at a short distance and told us that they intended to visit us and trade what furs they had in a few days. I did not wish that these Indians would come here at all as a Fort is on their own lands expressly for them, but as it is likely it would be well on in the season before they might see Mr. Kittson & that perhaps they would not exert themselves hunting while they have furs on hand I thought it most advisable not to prevent them from coming in and that after trading they would hunt briskly on their way to Mr Kittsons Fort & that although more furs would be obtained for the Company I understand there is only a few lodges of them here which separated from the Pendent Oreilles & Flat Heads a short time ago.

The carcasses of 3 Deer and 2 Beaver were traded from the Indians.

Wedy. 30th

Sharp frost, clear pleasant weather.

The men differently employed.

A few Indians visited the Fort and traded a little meat & a few beaver and appichimans.--I sumed up the trade since our arrival on the 24th Inst. and find it to amount to 310 large & 202 small beaver, 11 otters, 76 Rats, 4 fishes, 1 mink, 1 Robe, 6 dressed, deer skins, 17 pacht, do. 4 dressed Elk skins, 11 saddles, 111 fathoms cord, 97 appichimans, 69 bales, 4094 lbs. net wt. dry meat, 170 fresh Tongues, 103 dry do, 342 lbs. 5-1/4 (dry) fresh venison, 4 Bushels Roots, 50 (?), 14 Horns buffalo, 4 Hair Bridles and 2 dogs.

The Expenditure for the above trade including presents of Tobacco & am. to the chiefs, smoaking &c is as follows 4 doz. Inds. awls, 6 half & 4 small axes, 1-2/3 doz. (hawk balls), 2-1/4 lb. N. W. 5 lb. canton, and 2-1/2 yds. green Transparent Beads, 115 lbs. Ball, 1 (Eyed Dog), 2 Files 7 Inch. 14 guns, 78 flints, 3-1/2 doz. gun (?), 11 Looking Glasses, 37 lbs. gun Powder, 11 Kirby hooks, 18-1/4 lbs. brass & copper kettles, 4-1/6 doz. scalpers & 11/12 doz. Folding Knives, 3-1/2 yds Red Strands, 3 pr. (?), 2 lbs. Beav. shot 3-1/2 doz. Thimbles, 72 lb. Tobacco, 3 Beaver Traps and 1/2 lb. Vermillion--The awls, Flints and gun (worms) were generally given for nothing and also some of the Tobacco. The bales of dry meat cost on an average 3-1/2 (Pluis) and was paid for principally with ammunition, a little Tobacco & some knives. The bales as bought from the Indians average about 60 lbs. net each. Of the above 4094 lbs. meat, there are 2314 lb. Lean, 1340 Back fat, and 440 Inside fat.

Decr. Thursday 1st.

Overcast frosty weather.

The men employed splitting planks cutting firewood, &c.

An old Flat Head chief Le Buche, the only one yet arrived visited the Fort with 8 or 9 attendants, who traded in the course of the evening 13 bales of meat and a few beaver skins.--The old chief has taken up his quarters with me and says he intends to stay three nights. He has a good deal of influence with the Indians.

Friday 2

Weather as yesterday. Snow in the night.

A few Indians still visiting the house but little to Trade. 1-1/2 Deer were purchased.

Saturday 3

Overcast milder weather than these days past. Some snow in the night.

The men splitting planks.

A Kooteany Indian arrived yesterday evening and went off only this morning. With him I sent a letter to Mr Kittson which I supposed might be nearly at his fort by this time, but as I had learned from Soteaux a freeman that the road was very difficult & that probably he would have to return I sent word to the Indians that in case of their not hearing of his arrival, to come in here and trade their furs immediately, but if heard of his arrival to go to their own Fort & by no means come here. The sooner the furs can be got out of the Indians hands the better, as they will then exert themselves to collect more.

Mr Kittson and his people arrived in the evening in a canoe with their supplies for the Kootenais. It seems that on entering the Kootany River after mounting the Columbia they found the Navigation so difficult that it was deemed impracticable to reach their destination with the craft they had (a small boat) or indeed with any craft except one that two men could carry. Mr Kittson therefore determined to return to Spokan and make his way by the old rout[205] across Au Platte Portage, but reaching Spokan the Company's horses were so lean that a sufficient number (only 8 or 9) were totally incapable of undertaking the journey and would not have been able to perform it. He, therefore proceeded on to this place with the canoe that I left at the Coeur d Alan portage, and sent a man across land to the Kootenais to apprise them of his failure in attempting to get to their country and to make the best of their way to this place to Trade.

Not succeeding in getting to the Kootany country in time will be attended with some loss in beaver as a part of the fall hunt will be lost, however as things are now situated there is no means of remedying it, the supplies cannot be sent to meet them and detain them in their own country for want of horses, which cannot be procured here.

The Governor was certainly misinformed regarding the navigation when he ordered the Kootany supplies to be sent by water.

Sunday 4

Foggy mild weather, but still freezing.

Eight young men from the Kootany camp arrived and traded 15 small beaver skins for Tobacco with which they set off in the evening to regain the camps. A little Tobacco was sent to the chiefs.--The young men report that seeing no whites arrive, the chiefs had raised camp to come here[206] & trade, and that the man whom Mr Kittson sent came up with them & is now with the Chief.--The camp is not far off but it will be some time before they reach this as they make but short days marches. They have plenty of beaver.

Monday 5th

Some snow in the morning. Overcast mild weather afterwards.

The Old Chief La Buche paid us another visit. A few other Indians visited the Fort but had little to trade.

The man whom Mr Kittson sent round by the Kootanies arrived in the afternoon accompanied by an Indian. He was very well treated by the Indians. The whole tribe are on their way here and at no great distance, but it will still be some days before they arrive as they make but slow marching.

The men employed packing up what beaver and appichimans we have already traded, for the purpose of sending off two canoes. The furs, appichimans, saddles &c will not more than load 1 canoe the other we will have to load with provisions though by so doing we subject our silves to the chance of being in want before the spring in case any mischance should befall the Flat Heads so that they have been unsuccessful and do not bring in a supply. I much wished to detain the canoes till the F. Heads arrived but being anxious to get La Course to Spokan to commence the boat building as soon as possible, and being apprehensive that the Navigation might be stopped by the ice it is deemed necessary to send them off immediately, specially as the men have to go to Spokan for some supplies, and on account of the canoes it is very disirable that they get back by water.--

Tuesday 6th

Rain in the night & snow towards morning and snow & sleet during the day.

Sent off the two canoes 5 men each 7 of whom are to return and 3 to remain below. The canoes are not deep laden having only 22 pieces each besides the people's provisions.--

Th Old Chief La Buche took his departure in the evening. Some Indians traded a few beaver & appichimans.

Wed.y. 7

Rained hard in the night and all day.

Some Indians Pendent Oriells & Spokans traded nearly 40 beavers & some appichimans.--

With the constant rain the water is dripping through the houses in every direction. Sent word to the Indians to bring some mats to cover them.

Thursday 8

Continued raining all night & the greater part of the day.

Some Indian women arrived in the morning with mats which were traded and the men immediately set too to cover the houses with them which nearly completed befor night, at least the trading shop & store. We have only two men & the cook since we sent the people off.--

Received news from the F. Head camp they are still at a considerable distance and will be some time before they reach us, as their horses are very lean & they make but slow marching. It is said they have plenty of meat, but no amount of furs.--

Friday 9th.

Foggy with showers of rain.

A party of about 20 Nezperces arrived in the evening from the Buffalos[207] but deferred trading till tomorrow. Gave them to smoke. These peoples horses are very lean, & from them we learn that the Flat Heads horses are still worse in consequence of which it will still be some time before they come away. These Indians fired a salute to the Fort on their arrival.[208] It has been hitherto the custom to return the salute as I had omitted to do so to Old La Buche (from not knowing their customs,) when he arrived with a few young men and also fired, lest it would cause jealousy, however, as the old gentlemen again paid us a visit this evening, & was smoking with the chiefs we explained to him the cause of our not firing, and told thse people we would give them a round on their departure, which La Bouche said would give him no offense. I understand it is pleasing to the Indians to receive this mark of respect. As the expense is but trifling we intend returning their salutes when they arrive in future.--

Saturday 10th

Foggy in the morning, Sun shining occasionally during the day.

The Nezperces that arrived yesterday traded 18 beaver, 23 Appichimans, 2 Robes, 5 Saddles, 4 dressed skins, 97 Tongues, 10 (Bosses), & 11 Bales of Meat 665 lbs net., principally for Tobacco & ammunition.

Some other Indians visited the Fort but had little to trade.

Sunday 11

Overcast soft mild weather.

The Nezperces chief & his men went off for the Flat Head camp. A few shots were fired on their departure. A little Tobacco was sent with the chiefs to C. McKay[209] who is coming in with the Snake furs.--A young man arrived from the Kootany Chief who is encamped with all his people at a short distance & will be here tomorrow. A small piece of Tobacco was sent to the Chief.

Had 113 Buffalo Tongues salted in bags made of (pannefliches)[210] having no kegs, we expect they will keep in the bags.

Monday 12

Foggy raw cold weather, drizzly rain in the evening.

The Kootany chief with about a dozen of his men arrived and smoked but brought no furs with them as they said they intended to trade tomorrow. The Chief it seems has been occasionally accustomed to get a dram on his arrival, and on asking for it got a glass of rum mixed with water, which, little as it was, with the smoking took him by the head and made him tipsy. A woman who goes in mens clothes[111] & is a leading character among them was also tipsy with 3/4 of a glass of the mixed liquor and became noisy, some others of the leading men who got a little were not affected by it. Gave them some tobacco to smoke when they went off in the evening.

When it was dark 3 Au Plattes, another band of Kootenais, arrived for some Tobacco to smoke, these people are all afoot and were not able to keep up with the main band who have horses. They are all said to have plenty of beaver.

The men employed sorting and baling up meat.

Tuesday 13

Weighty rain in the night, soft mild weather during the night.

The Kootenay chiefs with 60 to 80 of his people arrived in the morning, and after smoking & conversing to about 11 oclock a brisk trade was commenced and continued on to night, when all their furs & leather was traded, the Chief got some tobacco for his people to smoke in the night besides a small present of Ammunition and beads 4 Pluis. A present was also given to, Bundosh[211], a woman who assumes a masculine character and is of some note among them, she acted as interpreter for us, she speaks F. Head well. A little ammunition & Tobacco was also given to some of the other leading men.--The trade was as follows, 481 Large & 205 small beaver, 8 Otters, 1200 Rats, 6 Fishes, 7 Mink, 10 Martens, 21 Elk skins, 27 Deer Skins, 9 (Pannefliches) & 31 fath. cords, which may be considered an excellent trade as it is seldom or never that things come up to it in the fall.--The Chief & indeed the whole of them went off apparently well pleased, though the trade is very cheap, excpt 12 guns, 3 blankts, and a few Kettles, principaly ammunition & Tobacco.

Wed.y. 14

Blowing a storm with heavy rain in the night. Blowing fresh from the Northward all day, but fair.

The Kootany Chief with some of his people visited the fort & Traded 15 beaver a few rats & some dressed skins. The beaver traded today make up the Kootany trade now 488 Large & 213 small beaver.--

C. McKay & Joachim Hubert arrived with the Snake Furs, 17 packs & 4 partons, they had only 4 horses of the Companie's and not being able, as Mr Ogden expected, to obtain any assistance from the Indians, McKay, had to get part the furs carried by 4 Freemen who accompany him. Some of these freemen are in disgrace and will probably have to be punished for their conduct towards Mr Ogden, but as this gentleman has not written or sent any instructions on the subject, it was thought best to give them a dram & a piece of Tobacco and not make it appear that anything was against them till instructions which are written for, be received from below regarding how they are to be dealt with. These steps are necessary in order to endeavour to get the furs out of their hands so that they may not dispose of them in trade among the Indians.--The caches were not found all complete a few beaver belonging to one of the men's wives were missing and a cache of 100 Large beaver belonging to two of the freemen, Bastong & Gadua, was stolen by the Indians. The horses are very lean and would have been able to go little farther. They parted with the Indians some time ago. The F Heads will not be here for some time yet.

(To be continued.)

FOOTNOTES:

[161] Peter Skene Ogden, then in charge of the Snake Country trapping expedition and on the headwaters of either the Snake or the Missouri rivers.

[162] Thos. Dears, a clerk in charge of the building at the new trading post at Kettle Falls, Wash., to be known as Fort Colville.

[163] The family of John McLeod en route to the Red River Dist. Consult Note No. 40, p. 103, of April Quarterly.

[164] Dr. McLoughlin visited this place the following summer and the Fort was built where Gov. Simpson had selected the site.

[165] More recently known as Long Prairie, about 18 miles from the Fort.

[166] This Express boat ascended the Columbia River to Boat Encampment at the mouth of Canoe river and met there by appointment the H. B. Co. officer returning from York Factory after the annual summer council there. The horses that brought that Gentleman's party across the Athabasca pass returned with these passengers and dispatches, and the officer came back down the Columbia in the boat. Consult this text Oct. 31st Prox.

[167] A prairie still known by the same name; near Springdale, Stevens county.

[168] Probably Walkers Prairie, where the Walker-Eells Mission was located in 1838.

[169] This would be Francois Rivet, an interpreter, who was given some authority by the traders. He afterward settled on French Prairie below Salem, Oregon.

[170] That is, by the Snake river route through Boise, Payette, Weiser, Burnt river and the Grande Ronde in Eastern Oregon. He actually arrived at Fort Walla Walla on Nov. 9th.

[171] The first vegetables grown in Stevens county, Washington, by white men.

[172] Good cedar timber suitable for boats is said to have grown above the mouth of Deep creek four or five miles above the Fort.

[173] The flat where Spokane House was built was a small prairie with some scattering timber in spots. Gov. Stevens found it so in 1853; see