Part 2

Such was Holyhead a few years ago. At that time there was no harbour for her vessels, but what the rude hand of Nature had formed—no lighthouse streaming in the midnight gloom—no telegraph to announce to distant parties what vessels heaved in sight—no railway train gliding swiftly and smoothly along the iron-road—no joyous excursionists pouring in by thousands, paying their respects to the natives, beneath the shining of a Summer’s sun—no coachman with his sounding horn—no spirit for commercial enterprise—no Bible Society—no Missionary Society—no schools to “teach the young idea how to shoot”—no Saving’s Bank—no Libraries—no Mechanic’s Institute. It could not boast, like other towns, of advance in trade, or commercial prosperity. It had rather to hang its harp upon the willows, and wonder why all the mighty advantages that Nature had lavished on its transcendently lovely Bay, had been so long comparatively overlooked.

The present century rose on Holyhead like a sun in smiles. Her growth to importance has taken place within the last half century; the time of her visitation had dawned, her set time was come; the tide of her future prosperity sprung auspiciously; the sympathies of England were turned towards her—the wealth of England was expended on her—and the experience, science, industry, and enterprise of England were put forth on her behalf. The erection of South Stack Lighthouse in 1808, the commencement of the Pier, with its Harbour, Graving Dock, and Lighthouse in 1810, the Government establishment, and the completion of the great Parliamentary road, gave a commercial impulse to the place, and materially contributed to attract and support a thriving population.

The commencement of the Breakwater, or New Harbour, and the Chester and Holyhead Railway, sounded the tocsin aloud for the advancement of Holyhead; and the advantage was taken by the spirited inhabitants in a manner which did them credit. Within the last four years, in particular, it has rapidly increased in extent and improved in appearance: streets and public edifices, large and well built, seem to have started into existence as by the enchantment of some mighty magician; almost everything is new, and everything wonderfully improved, affording ample accommodation of every kind for the numerous visitors who may do themselves the honour of reposing within its precincts. The town is rapidly rising to that respectability and celebrity to which the salubrity of its air, its rich and varied prospects, by land and sea, so justly entitle it; but like most other places in a transition state, it exhibits a motley mixture of old and new houses. The important conveyances, vehicles to all parts of the country, the railway, and steamers, to and from Ireland daily, bestow on it a charm which it is in vain to look for in any other spot in the Principality.

There are places of worship, exclusive of the parish Church, for Independents, Baptists, Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. There are two Public Schools, conducted respectively upon the National and British plan; and an Infant School, under the auspices of the Independents. The British School was erected in 1848, on land given by the late Lord Stanley, of Alderley, and the Hon. W. O. Stanley, of Penrhos. A Mechanics’ Institute has been established—a new Church and Cemetery are in contemplation—a Gas Company is formed—accommodations for bathing are “looming in the future.” Indeed, although the writer is not a prophet, nor the son of a prophet, yet he will venture to divine that, a few years hence, there will be a convenient Market-place—water will be brought to every roan’s door—gas, one of the greatest _desiderata_ in the march of improvement, will illumine our streets, and other improvements necessary and desirable for the sanitary condition of the town, will follow in the wake, and Holyhead will be raised to that position which she is designed to occupy.

We trust the sun of Holyhead’s hope has at length arisen; may it be the beginning of a bright and prosperous day, not only in a commercial point of view, but in a moral aspect, for with increasing shipping, trade, population, &c., will Christian responsibility increase also; and benevolent efforts to meet the multiplied demand, we trust, will not be found wanting.

POPULATION OF HOLYHEAD.

The parish of Holyhead contained, in 1841, 3,868; in 1851, 8,665; houses, 1,800. The population is now (1853) nearly 9,000, and 1,850 houses.

DISTANCES OF PLACES.

Holyhead is distant from London 263 miles—Chester, 85—Bangor, 25—Britannia Bridge, 23—Beaumaris, 27—Carnarvon, 33—Kingstown (Ireland), 63.

POST OFFICE.

Mr. W. B. Jones, _Postmaster_.

DELIVERY OF LETTERS.

Letters from London, and all parts of England, arrive every morning at half-past Six. Delivery commences at eight. Letters from Ireland arrive every evening about Six p.m., and are delivered the same evening.

DESPATCH OF LETTERS.

Letters to London, and all parts of England, are despatched at Seven, every evening: Box closes at Six. Letters to Ireland are despatched at One, a.m., and Six, a.m.

AGENTS.

_City of Dublin Co.’s Mail Packet Office_.—_Superintendent_—Commander C. Fraser, R.N.

_Harbour Master_—Lieut. J. Lascelles, R.N.

_Admiralty Office_—Commander M. Skinner, R.N.

_Custom’s Office_—Mr. Lennox.

_Woods and Forests_—J. Provis, Esq., C.E.

_Chester and Holyhead Railway Steam Packet Office_—Mr. William Storey, Clerk.

_Stamp Office_—Mr. H. G. Hughes, Druggist, Distributor.

_New Harbour Stores’ Keeper_—Mr. N. F. Woolmer.

_Chester and Holyhead Steam Packet Office_.—_Superintendent_—Capt. Hirst.

BANKS.

_North and South Wales Bank_, _Stanley-street_ (draws on the London and Westminster Bank)—Mr. Robert Roberts, Manager.

_National Provincial Bank_ (_Branch_), _Boston-street_ (draws on Hanbury, Taylors, and Lloyd, London)—Mr. Edward Hughes, Manager.

ANCIENT CUSTOMS.—EGG TAKING, FROM THE CLIFFS OF HOLYHEAD.

The eggs of many of the birds named in another page were formerly sought after as delicious food, and considered as a great treat to the epicurean. The price procured for them was a sufficient inducement for the poor to follow the adventurous trade of egg-taking; but in this, as in the pearl fishery on the coasts of Persia, the gains bear no tolerable proportion to the danger incurred. Until the dangerous practice was prohibited, men were employed in collecting them in the following manner. The adventurers having furnished themselves with every necessary implement for the business, while the sun afforded assistance by his beams, entered on the terrific undertaking. Two—for this was a trade in which co-partnership was absolutely necessary—took a station; and he whose turn it happened to be, or whose superior agility rendered it eligible, prepared for the rupestrian expedition. A strong stake was driven into the ground, at some distance from the edge of the cliff, to which a rope, of sufficient length to reach the lowest haunts of the birds, was affixed. Fastening the other end round his middle, taking the coil on his arm, and laying hold with both his hands, he threw himself over the brow of the cliff, placing his feet against its sides, and carefully shifting his hands, he gradually descended till he came to the abode of the birds; then putting his hand into the hole, while suspending himself with the other, he took possession of its contents, carefully placing the eggs in a basket slung at his back for the purpose. Having despoiled all the nests within his extent of rope, he ascended by the same means to the edge of the cliff, where his partner, whose duty hitherto was to guard the stake, crawling on hands and knees, afforded him assistance in doubling the cliff, which otherwise he would be unable to do. Dangerous occupation! A slip of the foot, or the hand, would in an instant be fatal to both. Instances have occurred where the weight of the one overcoming the strength of the other, both have been precipitated down the craggy steep, and their mangled carcases buried in the ocean.

To a stranger and bystander, this occupation appeared more dangerous than it really was; in persons habituated to bodily difficulty, the nervous system became gradually braced, and the solids attained that state of rigidity which banished irritability; while the mind, accustomed to scenes of danger, lost that timidity which frequently led to the dreadful disaster. To the person whose heart palpitates at the near approach to such heights, it must appear a presumptuous venture, and daily instances of its fatality might be expected; but facts demonstrate the contrary, and serve to prove how much we are the creatures of habit, and to what an extent difficulty and danger may be made subordinate to art and perseverance. A sight of this perilous employment would remind the beholder of that fine description—

— How fearful And dizzy ’tis to cast one’s eyes so low! The crows and choughs, that wing the midnight air, Shew scarce so gross as beetles. Half-way down Hangs one who gathers samphire;—dreadful trade.

SHALL I GET MARRIED THIS MONTH?

During the last century a singular custom was observed at _Capel Lochwyd_, on the celebration of the annual wakes at Holyhead. This joyous festival then continued a fortnight and a day,—commencing the Sunday before the 25th of July, and ending the second Sunday after. On each of the three Sundays of the wakes, all the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, old and young, repaired to the chapel, which is situated on a very high part of the mountain, on the west side, close to a cleft, or ravine, that leads down, or rather led down, to the sea shore, (as the pass is now partly obstructed by loose stones); the old to be spectators, and the young, of both sexes that were or thought that they were marriageable, to be actors. On the shore, just above high water-mark, there is a well of most delicious water, called Ffynon (well) of Lochwyd,—having fine gravel at the bottom; and the custom was, for the lasses and lads to take a mouthful of the water, and fill both their hands with the gravel from the bottom of the well, and then endeavour to ascend the ravine (which must at all times have been very difficult,) to the chapel. Whoever succeeded, without spilling a drop of the water or dropping a single pebble, in arriving at the chapel, and casting the water and gravel on the altar, was esteemed certain of being married before the moon had attained its greatest age. The distance between the well and the chapel is about a quarter of a mile; and those who had been unfortunate in either spilling the water or dropping the gravel, were obliged to return; and, to defeat the endeavour of others to ascend, they used all their wit, resorting to grimace and buffoonery to excite laughter in those they met; by which means, very few ever reached the desired goal with the freight they started with from the well. And even, some of those who were successful, I opine, would have another difficulty to grapple with, perhaps greater than that of carrying water and pebbles from the well to the chapel, viz., that of obtaining a suitable “help-mate” in so short a time. As this ceremony took place only on the Sundays of the wakes, it was called “Suliau y Creiriau,” (Sabbaths of the Relics.) The altar disappeared many years ago, and there is scarcely a vestige of the chapel left.

DANCING MATCH.

During the week-days of the wakes at Holyhead, as many musicians were collected together as could be found in and around the town; and one of them played till he was tired, when he was relieved by a fresh one; so that there was music without cessation. To this music twenty young women danced till they were tired; and who ever held out the longest gained the prize of a complete suit of apparel; if it was not decided in one day, the whole twenty commenced again on the following day, and so on to the end of the wakes. This prize, like the “Suliau y Creiriau,” was left sometimes undecided, as the girls would dance till they fainted, rather than acknowledge a defeat. There was an old woman living in this parish in 1826, and who was then nearly a hundred years of age, who, in her youth, assisted in the performance of both the above customs. These barbarous usages were suppressed by a pious Curate of Holyhead, of the name of Ellis, about the year 1748.

HOLYHEAD PIER—OLD HARBOUR.

The first stone of this great national work was laid in the month of August, 1810. The Pier extends from the small island called _Ynys Halen_, or _Salt Island_, in an east-south-east direction into the sea; and is about 1000 feet in length. On the south side it is faced with a perpendicular wall of cut stone; near the east end a spur projects 60 feet at right angles with the wall, so as to afford shelter from the east winds. The back of the Pier, or part towards the sea, is on an inclined plane from the top of the parapet, and is built with large rough stones placed edge-ways, as close together as possible, and wedged with smaller ones, so that the sea has no power over it. A morning or evening walk on the parapet, which is used as a promenade, is strongly recommended; it will have a tendency to enliven the spirits, and brace the nerves. On the south side of the Harbour is a fine Graving Dock, admirably constructed, and one of the first in England. The Dock gates are protected by a spur projecting from Turkey Shore to the northward 330 feet, on the east side of the gates. The whole of the above improvements were effected for about £130,000—the Graving Dock about £12,000. Formerly the road to the Pier was through the town; but Government constructed a new road on the margin of the Pool or Basin, which covers an area of fifty or sixty acres, and is filled with water at high tide, but dry at low water.

The anchorage ground outside the Harbour having been so much raked by use that the anchors would not hold, several vessels were in consequence lost. In 1831, a very strong chain of 300 feet in length was laid down across the entrance; so that when a vessel now drags her anchor before the gale, she drives forward until she grapples the chain. This plan has been the means of saving a number of vessels, and none have been on shore since it was adopted. On the Pier there is a large capstan of great power, for the use of the Government Packets and other vessels. Many large ships, by the aid of a plentiful supply of warps, have been brought into the Harbour during heavy gales, evidently snatched from destruction by the prompt assistance thus rendered. A LIFE BOAT reposes on a frame furnished with wheels, in order that it may be moved at an instant’s notice; a gratifying proof that the cause of humanity is not suffered to slumber.

GRAND TRIUMPHAL ARCH.

The Triumphal Arch was erected to commemorate the arrival of His Majesty George IV. On the 7th of August, 1821, His Majesty landed at Holyhead, on his passage to Ireland; an event which forms an epoch in the history of the Principality, and of Anglesey in particular. Upwards of six centuries had elapsed since a British Monarch was seen in Wales; but his Majesty’s visit was under circumstances widely different from those which attended the visit of the first English King. This auspicious day had been anxiously expected by the natives of Holyhead for some time previously; and preparations for His Majesty’s reception had been made with enthusiastic loyalty by every class of people. On the appearance of the Royal Yacht, about half past four in the evening, a signal was made from the top of Holyhead Mountain; but the tide being contrary, and the wind light, the yacht and attendant squadron could not approach the bay until 12 o’clock, when they anchored directly opposite the town, which was immediately illuminated. On the following day, His Majesty landed on the shores of Cambria, and was enthusiastically greeted by the cheers of thousands. The confidence which His Majesty felt in the attachment of the loyal and patriotic _Cambro-Britons_ is strongly evinced in the circumstance, that this was the first time of his being abroad without a military escort. After remaining a short time on the Pier, His Majesty and suite proceeded in three of the Marquis of Anglesey’s carriages to Plas Newydd. On His Majesty’s return to Holyhead, he was received at the entrance of the town with similar attention and marks of respect as were evinced on his landing; and he was conducted to his barge amidst the reiterated cheers of the assembled multitude. The squadron immediately manned their yards, royal salutes were fired, and the town was again illuminated. Being detained in the bay by boisterous weather, the King left the Yacht, and embarked in the Steam Packet _Lightning_, commanded by the unfortunate Captain Skinner, (see page 21,) and proceeded to the shores of Ireland.

As the visits of Monarchs are “few and far between,” such an event was not to be lightly passed over. A public meeting was held on the 9th of August, and a general subscription was resolved to be entered into, for the purpose of erecting a Triumphal Arch, commemorative of the landing of His Majesty. On Wednesday, the 7th of August, 1822, the foundation stone was laid, with every circumstance that was calculated to produce an impressive effect. On the 6th of August, 1824, this elegant monument of loyalty was opened. It is a chaste and beautiful structure, in the Doric style, formed of Mona marble. It consists of four handsome pillars, twenty feet high, which are placed two on either side of a carriage-way, fourteen feet wide. Outside of the pillars, and of the same height, are two rectangular pillars, twelve feet by three feet six inches, leaving a footpath on each side of the carriage-way of five feet. The whole is surmounted with a bold and projecting cornice, and covered over by three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform. Over the carriage-way, on either side, are empannelled inscriptions, in Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event.

HOLYHEAD LIGHT-HOUSE.

The Light-house at the end of the Pier is one of the finest pieces of masonry in the kingdom—it is a master-piece of the kind, and is proof against the most violent storms and hurricanes by which it can be assailed. It is built of Moelfre stone, a kind of marble, inside as well as outside, on an inverted arch, and without any other timber than what was necessary for the door cases and window frames. It consists of three stories, or landing places, the ceilings of which are groined, and the gloves are of smooth stone. The floors are of rough polished stones. Its base is six feet above high water mark, and is protected from the sea by a strong glacis. The tower, which is circular, is thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern, which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights of gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a strong white light in every direction, which being at an elevation of fifty feet above the level of the sea, affords a safe guide to vessels approaching the Harbour. There is a lamp, with reflector, placed opposite an aperture, twenty feet below the lantern, shewing a red light. This is not seen by vessels until they have cleared all rocks outside, when it at once appears, and the vessel alters her course, and runs for the Pier-head with confidence. In thick weather the packets are guided by signal guns and bells, which are so well arranged that sometimes the Pier Light-house has been the first object seen after crossing the channel from Ireland.

MONUMENT TO CAPTAIN SKINNER.

There’s a Divinity that shapes our ends, Rough-hew them as we will.

This gallant officer, formerly commander of a post-office packet on the Holyhead station, lost his life, in 1833, by being washed overboard in an almost unaccountable manner, while standing on his own vessel speaking to one of his sailors, who was carried away by the same wave with his captain, and both ultimately disappeared. It is said the weather was not very boisterous, and that the accident was one of the most extraordinary ever known in the annals of naval experience.

The obelisk monument, erected by public subscription, to the memory of the estimable and noble-spirited officer, is now to be seen on the rocks south of the harbour. He was generally respected, and his loss greatly regretted by his numerous friends. Surely no one can visit this generous, humane, and affecting tribute of regard, without reflecting on the solemn and sudden visitations of an inscrutable Providence, as exemplified in the untimely end of the brave and benevolent Capt. Skinner.

THE CAPTAIN’S GRAVE.

No sculptured slab of marble rare The Captain’s grave discloses; No flattering strain of praise records Where his pale corse reposes; No weeping kindred o’er his bier With praises laud the brave; No floweret gemmed with memory’s tear Proclaims the Captain’s grave.

Wrapped in a shroud of pale sea flowers, Deep in a rocky grot, The clay-cold form lies silently, Where man disturbeth not. No solemn train of funeral pomp, He died as died the brave; The fond hope of a hardy crew Rests calm below the wave.

SKERRIES LIGHT-HOUSE.

The Skerries are a group of bare or half covered rocks, eight or ten in number, about nine miles from Holyhead, and two miles from the northern extremity of the Isle of Anglesey. It is called in Welsh, _Ynys y Moelrhoniaid_, or the _Isle of Seals_, from the great number of seals seen about it. It is inhabited by a few poor sheep, and a numerous colony of rabbits. The length of the Island is about a quarter of a mile; it is greatly indented at the sides, and at high water is even divided into a number of smaller insulated rocks. In fine weather it has a most dreary appearance, and in high winds the breaking of the sea against its rugged base, and the immense clouds of foam which darken the air, render the ocean inexpressibly awful and terrific. A bay light, to mark the situation of a cluster of dangerous rocks at the north entrance of Holyhead, was first placed here in 1730, for the convenience of ships navigating between the ports of Liverpool, Bristol, and Ireland. The present Light-house was erected, and the first _oil_-light exhibited, in 1804. Before that time coals were used, of which a great fire was kept burning in the conical grate, which appears on the summit of the front peak of the rock. The light from this beacon may be seen 25 or 30 miles off, and is of infinite service to navigation; for, prior to its erection, scarce a winter passed here without shipwrecks, and nearly always accompanied with loss of lives, for the surge beats against it with incredible fury. Fish sport about the sides of this island in amazing multitudes; they are principally the colefish, the whiting, pollocks, and the cod-fish. The beautiful corasses, &c., are caught here. Puffins resort to this place in great plenty; they come in a surprising manner, all in a flock in one night, and, when their season arrives, depart in the same manner. Those who love the bold and awful rather than the calm scenes of nature, will do well to visit this island.

SOUTH STACK—BY LAND.

On SOUTH STACK rock what glories feast our eyes, Entrance our senses and our souls surprise! To paint each scene no colours can be found, Romantic beauties crowd the enchanted ground.

South Stack may be visited either by land or water; cars and boats may be hired at a moderate charge. The way by land is the mountain road, as far as a farm called _Glan yr Afon_, (river side) and then across the mountain to the heights directly opposite.

THE LIGHT-HOUSE