The vale of Lyvennet

Part 4

Chapter 44,067 wordsPublic domain

During the Roman sway Christianity was introduced into Britain, but it is highly probable that it took but little root in the North. The faint gleam of the true faith, if ever it existed, would be completely extinguished by the introduction of the Pagan creed of the Gothic nations, to the deities of which we are indebted for the names of the days of the week, and for several local names throughout the country. This wild religion, however, eventually gave way before the advance of Christianity, for about the year 630 when Edwin was king of Northumbria, the true light of the cross was first introduced into the north by Paulinus, who is said to have converted the Northumbrians. He probably followed the example of Augustine, who, to bring from the old idolatry and not to offend the feelings of the people, consecrated the heathen temples, and observed the heathen festivals; but dedicated to the observance of Christian saints. The next advance was to erect rallying places of truly Christian origin; these were crosses of wood or stone, which to this day remain in reality or in name in almost every village. One has been erected at Crosby by some devoted to the reformation of the people around, which would assemble the new converts to hear discourses on the blessings and comforts of the new religion. But this was not all straightforward. The country became subject to the incursions of the Danes, who brought back the old religion in its wildest and most erratic form. The infant Christianity fell before them, and Paganism was again in the ascendancy. Such, as its name implies, has been the case at Crosby Ravensworth. The Danes coming, find here a village with the cross planted on the green. They, without respect to rights of property or religion, throw down the cross, and hoist their standard "The Raven" symbolical of the mighty Odin, in its place.[6] The village, to its previous name of Crosby, receives the further appellation of Raven's-warth (the village or place) thus dedicating the valley to the presiding care of the Raven God. This, with Ravengill and Ravencrag in Crosby Gill, and the more direct name of Odin in Odindale, all indicate the ascendancy of that people who in their plundering inroads fought under the banner dedicated and sacred to the Warrior God. Christianity, however, again gleamed forth; the crosses were renewed and others erected. One has existed, erected on Maulds Meaburn green; the pedestal was found when the present school was built, and there is authentic record that it stood there in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. A curious custom at one time existed connected with these crosses. When a funeral procession passed, the corpse was lowered and the people, uncovered, sung a hymn; this custom is still remembered to have been observed in passing Meaburn by old people, though no vestige of the cross remained, neither did anyone know the origin of the observance,--an example of what we often find, a custom existing when its origin and the object of its observance is forgot. Another is also likely to have been on the hill bearing the significant name of Cross Bank, near Reagill Grange. Thus Christianity became firmly established, and wandering priests supported by the voluntary contributions of his hearers went from place to place, preaching the true faith, now holding forth from the steps of some cross, or with his hearers beneath some wooden shed which received the name of a church. A building of this character in all probability answered that purpose at Crosby for many years previous to the erection of the first stone structure. Churches were first built of stone about the end of the seventh century, when Theodore was Archbishop of Canterbury. He reformed the existing state of religion by having stationary priests supported by a fixed salary raised by a tax called "kirk scot" on all cultivated lands.[7] When the church at Crosby was first built of stone, we have no record.

The condition of the people up to the time of the Norman Conquest had made great advance since the first influx of the Saxons. A regular government prevailed, and permanent settlements had been made. Nearly all our villages may be traced back as having been first founded and named in those times, and even many of the single houses betray in the names a similar parentage. Cultivation was begun, and the land divided into hundreds, tithings and hides. The choice of boundaries is rather curious, and in some respects is proof of their antiquity. The first objects chosen, when convenient, are rivers or streams; the next landmarks are the wells and large boulders; of the former we have examples in Gunnerskeld, Rudkeld, Anna's Keld and Ned's Well, &c. Of the latter, in a district like this where large granite boulders are so plentiful, they have often been chosen, and in the old boundary rolls are called "Thunder Stones," the name by which granite boulders are known in the neighbourhood. Some of the more remarkable are the Cross Stone at Kiverriggs, where the parishes of Crosby, Shap and Morland join; the Stooping Stone on Harkeld is by some thought to have been a rocking stone; it is six feet high and lodged on a point of rock. It is mentioned as a boundary in a grant made by Thomas son of Gospatric of the manor of Hardendale to Byland Abbey.[8] Like all similar stones it is said to be haunted, and also has a remarkable propensity of turning once round every time it hears the cock crow! Another stone near Murber bears the name of "The Dead Man's Grave;" it is small and has two cavities in the top end, which gives it the resemblance of a skull.

The next objects chosen are the mounds or ancient burial places, and occasionally the stone circles. These were then regarded with a fear and sacred reverence which we might expect the common people of those times, young in the belief of Christianity, would have for the numerous monuments of their Pagan forefathers[9]; and it is quite probable that even then the same mode of burial might be adhered to; consequently these landmarks were as secure boundaries as either the wells or rivers. Another boundary often adopted in elevated lands is the watershedding line, or, according to the old wording, "where the water falling from Heaven runs both ways." As a proof of the antiquity of township boundaries it is worthy of remark that the manorial boundaries which were made soon after the Norman Conquest very frequently do not coincide, especially where the older boundaries have not been very definite.

[6] Canon Weston gave as a possible meaning of the puzzling word Ravensworth, "Hill of the Standard of the Raven," with the reservation that this failed if the Danes did not reach here. Others think the name is corrupted from Ravensthwaite, Raven's clearing. But far more interesting than the meaning is the pains with which the author traces out the historical steps by which the name, as he understands it, was built up.

[7] According to Stubbs, the belief that Theodore was the founder of the parochial system is mistaken; but his legislation aided its development.

[8] The authority for this sentence is not clear, as the charter granting Hardendale to Byland Abbey is not forthcoming. Perhaps Mr. Bland has been misinformed by some one who had read the charter of Thomas son of Gospatric granting to Shap Abbey the land on which the abbey stood; here a "great stone" is mentioned, but this is between Raset and the Lowther, quite a different spot. Mr. Bland is certainly not responsible for the confusion.

[9] Prof. Boyd Dawkins relates a remarkable instance of this feeling within living memory. About 1859 a Manx farmer offered up a calf as a burnt sacrifice, to appease the spirits of the tumuli, disturbed by archæological spade-work!

MANOR OF CROSBY RAVENSWORTH.

Thorphine de Alverstean, son of Uctred, son of Gospatric, is the first lord of the manor of which there is any account. In 1140 he gave the church, with lands in the manor, to Whitby Abbey. He was succeeded by his son, Alan de Alverstean, who reclaimed the church, but afterwards, in 1174, confirmed all previous grants of his father. In 1218 Hugh de Hastings had a grant of free warren in Crosby and Tibbay; he held the manor under John de Veteripont, son of Robert. In 1221, Thomas de Hastings, grandson of Alan de Alverstean, confirmed all previous grants to Whitby Abbey. Also in 1243, this Thomas, who was brother of Nicholas, Lord of Alverstean, again confirmed all former grants.

He was succeeded by Thomas, his son, who freed the monks and their tenants from suit to his mill there, and gave them leave to grind their corn where they pleased. In 1265, William, son of Thomas de Hastings, confirmed all previous grants.

In 1313, Nicholas de Hastings, on the Inquisition post mortem of Robert de Clifford, held this manor, and Nateby, by homage and fealty, and 27s. 2d. cornage. The wardship whereof, when it should occur, was estimated at £40. In 1350, Ralph de Hastings held it in like manner, and in 1423 it was in the hands of Richard de Hastings by like cornage. In 1453 by a feodary it appears that Edward Hastings held Crosby by cornage of 13s. 7d. subject also to wardship, marriage, relief, and suit to the county court; and about the same time Lancelot Threlkeld seems to have held the same of the said Edward. From this time there are no more of the name of Hastings in connection with Crosby. The only relic of this family is a slab which was found in the churchyard, having an incised cross and shield upon it, bearing the arms of the Hastings; which differ from those of the Threlkelds only in colour. The principal residence of the Threlkeld family was at Threlkeld in Cumberland; but they had large possessions at Crosby long previous to this time, for in 1304 and 1320 Henry Threlkeld had a grant of free warren in Yanwath, Crosby, Tibbay, &c., and in 1404 occurs the name of William Threlkeld, Knight, of Crosby. Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, Knight, was the son of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, by Margaret, daughter and heiress of Henry Bromflatt, Lord Vescy, and widow of John de Clifford. He was wont to say he had three noble houses; one at Crosby Ravensworth for pleasure, where he had a park full of deer; one at Yanwath for comfort and warmth, wherein to reside in winter; and one at Threlkeld, well stocked with tenants, to go with him to the wars. This Sir Lancelot has been buried in Crosby Church beneath the large tomb in the chapel belonging to Crosby Hall. The tomb is solid mason-work, ornamented with flutings on all sides, and on the south side with three blank shields, on which the armorial bearings would probably be painted. On the top is an immense polished limestone slab, without any ornament whatever; but on which it may have been the intention to have afterwards placed an effigy. Above this as a canopy is a low, flat arch, richly moulded, and on the north side enriched at each end with the arms of the Threlkelds, and in the centre the same impaling that of Bromflatt. At a later period the vault beneath was appropriated for the occupation of Robert Lowther, Esq., of Maulds Meaburn Hall, and probably at the same time the tombs underwent some alteration.

Sir Lancelot Threlkeld had three daughters, coheiresses; one was married to Thomas Dudley, Esq., who with her received Yanwath; the other two married two brothers, sons of Sir Christopher Pickering of Killington, Knight, by his wife Anne, who was daughter and sole heiress of Sir Christopher Moresby, Knight. One received with his wife the Threlkeld property; the other, James Pickering, and his wife Elizabeth, received Crosby. In 1527 this James Pickering held the manor of Henry, Earl of Cumberland, by cornage of 13s. 7d., owing also wardship, marriage, relief, and suit to the county court. He was succeeded by his son, William Pickering, Esq., who in 1532 was an arbitrator in a cause between Guy and Hugh Machell of Crackenthorpe. William was succeeded by his son Lancelot, who lived many years at the Hall. In 1568 he married a daughter of Thomas Blenkinsop of Helbeck; he had two sons, Thomas and James, and several daughters; who were married to different people in the parish, amongst others, some of the Thwaytes, at that time a numerous and respectable family in Crosby. James was bailiff of Crosby and lived at Craik Trees. He died in 1607. His father Lancelot died in 1603, and was succeeded by his eldest son Thomas. He, in the reign of James I sold the manor and part of the demesne to Sir John Lowther, Knight, of Lowther; and thus ended the dynasty of the Pickerings.

About this time there were considerable disputes between the lords of manors and tenants, the lords claiming an absolute estate in the tenements, and the tenants insisting upon an inheritance therein, according to the customs of the manor. The dispute between Sir J. Lowther and his tenants of Crosby Ravensworth was brought to issue in the High Court of Chancery, and a decree obtained in 1624; whereupon a grant was made to the tenants of all the lands upon payment of certain fines. This deed bears date 1629, but for eight years longer the fines remained unsettled. Sir John Lowther was at last compelled to agree and to confer to the tenants their estates to descend according to the common law, except that the eldest daughter or sister should inherit and not all; paying only two rents for a fine, reserving nevertheless the freehold estate therein, and suit of court and mill; but releasing to the tenants all services of ploughing, harrowing, shearing, raking, peat-leading, &c. This dispute lasted about fifteen or sixteen years. Previously and about this time Sir John Lowther and also other lords sold many parcels of land totally free, reserving only the royalties and suit of mill after the twentieth moulter.

About the same time another dispute arose about the cornage, commonly called noutgeld, and serjeant oats or bailiff corn throughout the barony of Westmorland. In 1634 it was decreed that these duties were due to the Earl of Cumberland, and were to be paid according to the following agreement: the cornage was to be paid in money, and Sir John Lowther, escheator-general for the North, regulated the measure of oats. Instead of the old pecks containing eight and ten quarts being up-heaped, they were to pay thirteen quarts straked measure.[10] There is a list also of pout-hens collected by the land serjeant. These duties in Crosby parish were as follows:--Cornage: Crosby Ravensworth, 13s. 4d.; Maulds Meaburn, 20s. 2d.; Wickerslack, 2s. 6d. Serjeant oats: Crosby Ravensworth, 44 bushels 3 pecks; Maulds Meaburn, 70 bushels 1 peck. Pout hens: Crosby, 10; Gilts, 9; Harberwain, 6; Maulds Meaburn, 30; Odindale, 7; and Wickerslack, 8.

Sir John Lowther gave the manor and estate of Crosby in marriage with his daughter Frances to John Dodsworth of Thornton Watlass, Yorkshire; he had issue John, who succeeded his father about 1659. This John Dodsworth had a son Robert,[11] who, it appears, though he lived at the Hall, or at least in the parish, did not succeed his father; for, according to Dr. Burn, John devised the estate to Francis Bayly in 1673, his faithful servant and steward, second son of Dr. Bayly of Penrith. He had issue Margaret Bayly, who was lady of the manor in 1696; and about the year 1700 she sold the whole manor and estate to the Worshipful Richard Lowther, Esq., of Maulds Meaburn Hall.

Black Dub, at the head of Crosby Gill, is the source of the Lyvennet, where, according to Dr. Burn, King Charles II., when he came in with the Scots in 1651, rested, dined, and drank of the water. This is authenticated by the Countess of Pembroke in her memoirs. The entry is that

"On August 8th, 1651, His Most Gracious Majesty King Charles II. with his army on his way from Scotland--passed Appleby about 7 miles to the West."

Tradition says that as they were passing over Crosby Fell a shepherd was met with. He was brought to the King, and questioned respecting the locality, and even acted as guide to the army over the moors. His name was Thwaytes, a family then numerous in Crosby. A rustic obelisk has been erected to commemorate the event, and a more vivid description of the place cannot be given than the following, extracted from a provincial paper published at the time.

"This place is one of the most solitary and dreary that can well be imagined, surrounded on all sides by an unenclosed heath; and, since the formation of the road over Shap Fells, seldom seen except by the shepherd or the sportsman. However, it must be recollected, that, though now so still and silent, it was once the great thoroughfare from Scotland through Lancashire, to the metropolis of England. To the solitary passer-by, who now can only hear the sighing of the breeze among the heather, or the bleating of a sheep, it may not be uninteresting to reflect on the noise and clamour that must have prevailed here on the day in question when the neighing of horses, the clang of arms and the shouting of men on a hasty march, (for Cromwell and his victorious army were not far behind), must have made a medley of sounds that can be better imagined than described."

On one side of the obelisk is the following inscription:--

HERE, AT BLACK DUB THE SOURCE OF THE LYVENNET CHARLES II REGALED HIS ARMY ON THEIR MARCH FROM SCOTLAND AUGUST 8TH, A.D. 1651.

This obelisk was renewed in 1861 at the expense of Mr. Gibson, and besides the inscription on the lateral sides are bas-reliefs, on one side of a crown, for which Charles was ardently striving; on the other side is a lion, which unfortunately came in his way and overthrew his hopes at the battle of Worcester. It has been further commemorated in a poem, "The Lyvennet," by A. Whitehead, and also by Mr. T. Bland, who has sculptured "The Lyvennet Vase," on which the King, dismounted, is receiving a drink from the hands of the presiding goddess of the stream.

[10] Straked, levelled off at the top, as opposed to heaped measure.

[11] There must be a mistake here, for if this Robert had been a descendant in any degree of John and Frances, he would have succeeded to Thornton Watlass, and lived there. As a matter of fact, the estate went to John's next brother, whose descendants have it still. John Dodsworth was never more than heir apparent; according to the Visitation of Yorkshire in 1665, he was dead, his father was seventy years of age, and he and Frances had had two children, Helen, who died young, and John, then aged sixteen. Hence, when the latter died, his son, if he had one, would be in the direct line of descent. Perhaps Robert was a servant, and had adopted his master's name; as was sometimes done in olden times.

THE PARK.

The Park at Crosby Ravensworth, of which Sir Lancelot Threlkeld boasted as affording him unbounded pleasure, lies to the south of Crosby, and is now known as Crosby Gill. It has originally been enclosed by a wall three yards in height, and of immense thickness; portions of this are still to be seen, the most perfect specimen being on the roadside from Crosby to Gilts. It has certainly been a chase of princely dimensions, containing within its bounds upwards of 700 acres, with a circumference of over six miles. The chase is of a very irregular and romantic character, being cut up into glens and ravines. A stream rising at King's Well runs the whole length down a beautiful yet wild valley, thickly covered with brushwood. This is joined in its course by three or four tributary streams. The Lyvennet from Black Dub runs down a deep and craggy glen, Raven Gill, down which the stream, after forming a succession of cascades, flows round the base of Raven Cragg, forming a deep pool called Aggy Lum; around which hangs a gloomy horror from the fact that it was once the scene of the last dreary plunge of a frail forsaken mother. Gilts beck, which gathers its waters from the bleak scars around Penhurrock, has also formed its course down a deep ravine. It is crossed, near Gilts, by a very picturesque bridge; the water runs through a cleft in the rock. This has been taken advantage of as an almost natural bridge. Its workmanship is attributed to Michael Scott, or, as some say, the Devil, who, flying over with a load of stones in his apron, the strings accidentally broke, and down fell the stones. He, unwilling to reload, but still wishful to turn them to some useful purpose, descended and formed the present bridge. On another occasion, however, he has not been so industriously inclined, for an immense heap of boulders near Wood Foot are also attributed to a similar accident; which he left in so careless a manner, as, according to the expression of an old farmer, "to spoil a lump of good land." A load these stones certainly have been, but more likely that of some antediluvian iceberg than that of his Satanic Majesty.[12]

The lodge, where probably resided the keepers, &c., is situated on an elevated part of the chase, commanding a view of the whole surrounding woods; it is now used as a farm-house, and has been rebuilt.

Many a time, doubtless, did the knight and his visitors at the Hall enjoy the excitement of the chase as the sound of hound and horn echoed among the dells.

* * * * *

These were jovial days at Crosby; but like their noble originators they are past and forgotten, except to the dreaming poet or the prosing antiquary, who have preserved for us something of the past in that fine old song:--

Oh those indeed were merry days The merry days of old.

[12] It has been remarked that in England anything ancient is attributed to one of four authors--Julius Cæsar, King Arthur, the Druids or the Devil. Julius Cæsar did not reach the north, and Michael Scott fills his place.

CROSBY RAVENSWORTH.

The village of Crosby Ravensworth is remarkably picturesque, being situated near the junction of the stream from Odindale with the Lyvennet; these streams afford marked features of natural beauties, and are enhanced by the splendid sycamore trees in the neighbourhood of the Church and Hall. It is also a very good specimen of villages arranged under the feudal times, when the resident lord of the manor exercised an almost despotic sway over the tenants and other inhabitants. The Hall, therefore, as the manorial residence, would be a centre near which were the dwellings of the villagers. One series of buildings is known as Tenter Row; probably a corruption of The Enter Row, being at one entrance of the village, and thus called in contradistinction to Low Row at the other end. In these would live the tenants immediately dependent on the Hall, while others, not so closely connected, resided further up the village. There is the church also, impropriated to Whitby Abbey by one of the earliest manorial lords. It is dedicated, according to Randal Sanderson, to St. Lawrence; but Rev. Thomas Machell says it was dedicated to St. Leonard. This latter might originate from that hospital at York having lands here. There is a tradition of some religious buildings having existed on the north side of the churchyard, and a great portion of the land belonged; and from it must have originated the names of Monks' Barn, Monks' Bridge and Monks' Garth. Opposite the church is the vicarage, a truly characteristic building; it has undergone many alterations and additions under the late vicars, but is especially indebted to Rev. G. F. Weston, who has enlarged and laid out the grounds with admirable taste.