CHAPTER IV

PHARI JONG

Gautsa to Phari Jong--A wonderful old fortress--Tibetan dirt--A medical armoury--The Lamas' library--Roadmaking and sport--The Tibetan gazelle and other animals--Evening diversions--Cold, grime, and misery--Manning's journal--Bogle's account of Phari--History of the fortress--The town and its occupants--The mystery of Tibet--The significance of the frescoes--Departure from Phari--The monastery of the Red Lamas--Chumulari--The Tibetan New Year--Bogle's narrative--The Tang la and the road to Lhasa 62-82