Part 14

Let us enter one of these houses, and see how they are built, and at the same time admire the freschi, paintings, and statuary which adorn the graceful abode of the ancients.

We enter the house by the _vestibulum_, or hall, and come into the _atrium_, a large square, paved with marble, inlaid with the richest mosaic of various colors. A row of pillars, adorned with the most beautiful freschi, border it on the right and left, and between them doors may be seen, which lead into bedrooms. The two last rooms on the sides of this open space leave two small recesses, which are furnished in the richest manner, and probably served as small reception-rooms. In the center of this _atrium_ is an _impluvium_, or small reservoir, generally provided with a fountain. Over this impluvium the roof is open, and the sky may be seen. Going onward, right opposite the entrance, we enter into the _tablinum_, which is not provided with a door, and allows a free view over the _atrium_. This room probably served for a large reception-room, as the most costly paintings and the richest furniture are found here. On the right-hand side of this room we find the _triclinium_, or dining-room, and on the other side a cabinet of curiosities and gems is found. Between this last apartment and the reception-room, a small passage is seen, which probably served for the slaves, as they were not allowed to go through the reception-room of their master. These rooms all open on the peristyle, another oblong square, which has on either side a row of sleeping-rooms, which probably were destined for the afternoon nap of the old Romans. No beds are to be seen in them, only large, commodious lounges.

[Sidenote: DESCRIPTION OF A HOUSE.]

At the end of this peristyle, which also is adorned with pillars and statuary, and we may readily except flowers and plants of the richest fragrance, we enter into a second eating-room, for the Romans had one dining-hall for the winter, and one for the summer, or one for ordinary, and another for festive occasions. A cabinet, dignified with the name of library, is, in most cases, on the right-hand side of this room, and in these apartments have been found many rolls of papyrus (the reader will remember that the art of printing was not invented before the fifteenth century after Christ), containing manuscripts. On the other side was generally the kitchen. From this last eating-room we enter into the _viridarium_, or garden. Modern imagination can scarcely imagine the beauty and luxury of this cool place of resort. Fountains of fragrant waters here filled the air with sweet perfume, and we do not wonder that this place was devoted to a rest after dinner, and the abode of love. The wall, which terminates the garden and the house, is screened by the most beautiful plants, which overshadow superb statuary, and we may imagine the beautiful view which may be had from the _atrium_, through the different rooms (as no doors interfere) to the green background, variegated by the colors of flowers and the rich curtains, whose folds partly conceal the _tablinum_ and the second dining-room.

The houses consist generally of one single floor, unless they are very large, and we may easily see, from the plan here described, that there is space enough for the comfort of all the inhabitants, and the enjoyment of the numerous guests.

[Sidenote: ANCIENT PAINTINGS.]

If we wished to give a description of all the treasures found in those ancient abodes, we might fill volumes, and therefore we will only mention some of the most remarkable features of the recent excavations. One picture has been exhumed at Pompeii, representing the Three Graces, which Raphael, of course, could not possibly have seen, yet the two compositions, although of different dimensions, are precisely the same—in grouping, in form, in expression, and even in charm. Now, not even a sketch of the picture was known until long after the middle of the eighteenth century, while the actual picture is a modern revelation altogether. Another fact was discovered: Raphael, copying a statue, applied the very same process to his painting which had been employed by his predecessors fifteen centuries previously. Within the last few years, forty figures have been redeemed from out these artistic tombs, which were evidently details of an immense composition, intended for the adornment of a theater or banqueting-hall, besides those, pictures of lightly-clad figures, floating through the air, relieved against brown, black, and crimson skies, with masses of carnation-cloud beneath their feet, and gems hanging, so to speak, around them, enveloped in robes of hyacinth, blue, green, and so on, the colors appearing to be laid thickly on vitrified surfaces. It is a wonder to all artists how those colors were laid on, not only as far as the magnificent coloring goes, but even in what way it was done. We find painting in relief on the smoothest surface of white marble; statuary even has been painted in the most masterly way, and we see auburn and blonde hair painted in a way which deceives even the sharpest observer; if we did not know better, we would think that the statue had natural hair,—all the gloss and the true tinge glowing through it is illustrated to absolute perfection.

The Neapolitan chemists, of course, are very eager to unravel this secret of their forefathers. Many a piece of painting has been analyzed; many a fragment of painted beauty has been destroyed by acids. However, till now, they did not succeed, and perhaps the art will be for ever a mystery to us.

Upon the whole, as this antique city is thrown more and more open to modern light, it proves to be the richest memorial extant of Grecian genius, as represented by an art so different from, and still at the same time so kindred to, sculpture. In most other classic centers, while the form and the purity have survived, the color and the splendor have faded; but here, as chamber after chamber, gallery after gallery is opened, a new beauty of the past appears, freshly vivified by the long-excluded light, and, as we are assured, labyrinths of interest remain yet to be explored.

[Sidenote: AN ANCIENT WINE-SHOP.]

A wine-shop was lately found at Pompeii, roughly ornamented with imitations of marbles in fresco. Over the podium of the front room runs a band of stucco, with four groups or scenes painted on a white ground. The first, on the left, represents a young man kissing a woman dressed in yellow garments, with black shoes. She says, “Nolo, cym myrta” * * “I don’t want to be kissed; go to your Myrtalis.” The second scene represents, very likely, the same woman talking to Myrtalis, who says, “Non mia, est.” They both point their fingers at a third female, bringing in a great wine-jar and a glass. She says, “Qui vol. symat oceane, veni. bibe,” an invitation to partake of the drink. The third scene represents two gamblers seated, having the chess-board on their knees, on which several latrunculi are seen disposed in rows of different colors, yellow, black, white. The one on the left is just throwing the dice, and says, “Exsi,” “I won.” The other answers, pointing to the dice, “Non tria, duas est,” “You have got two, not three.” Both fight in the fourth scene. One says, “Non it a me, tria, ego, fvi,” “I did not throw two, but three. I have won.” The other answers, “Orte fellator ego fvi,” “You ——! I have the game.” At this moment the shop-keeper comes in, and pushing them outside, says, “Itis, foras, riksatis,” “Go out to quarrel.”

XII.

VESUVIUS AND ITS ERUPTIONS.

THE GREAT ERUPTION OF VESUVIUS.—WHAT IT DID.—THREE CITIES WIPED OUT.—LAVA AND ITS CHARACTER.—GOING TO THE MOUNTAIN.—SKIRMISHING WITH GUIDES AND BEGGARS.—ARCHITECTURAL STEEDS.—A HORSE WITH A HAND RAIL AROUND HIM.—COAT-HOOKS TO LET.—A MOTLEY CROWD.—HOW AN AMERICAN WAS MOUNTED.—A NEW MODE OF SPURRING.—THE ROAD FROM RESINA.—BURNING LAVA.—CROSSING THE LAVA BEDS.—CLIMBING ON FOOT.—HAPS AND MISHAPS.—AN ENGLISHMAN’S ACCIDENT.—LIGHTING A CIGAR AT THE CRATER.—SUFFOCATED BY SULPHUR FUMES.—DOWN AMONG THE ASHES.—A LONG FALL AND SLIDE.—IN HERCULANEUM.—UNDERGROUND BENEATH THE CITY.—“LOOK HERE.”—HOW THE CITY WAS DISCOVERED.—THE ERUPTION OF 1872.—HORRIBLE SCENES.—EXTENT OF THE DESTRUCTION.

The eruption of Vesuvius that buried Pompeii destroyed Herculaneum at the same time. Some historians contend that the occurrences were not identical in point of time; but, after all, it makes little difference to us whether the two cities were simultaneously destroyed or not. The probability is, and it is pretty well settled, that while the ashes and stones from the crater of Vesuvius were blown upon Pompeii, the lava and mud flowed in the direction of Herculaneum, and covered it. A third city, Stabiæ, was destroyed at the same time—a fact which is not generally known. Castellamare, a well-known summer resort near Naples, stands on the site of Stabiæ, whose excavations, not having promised very well, were filled up soon after they were begun.

The lava which flows from a volcano during violent eruptions is a composition of melted stone and oxide of iron. The stone is mainly feldspar and hornblende. There is a good deal of sulphur also in the lava when it rises in the volcano, but the most of it is thrown out in the form of sulphurous fumes. The lava very much resembles the slag or scoriæ flowing from an iron foundery, and, when suddenly cooled, it assumes a glassy character. When it consolidates or cools, it forms what are known as volcanic rocks. If the streams of lava are cooled under no other pressure than that of the atmosphere, they assume a porous appearance. Lava, cooled under the surface of the water is much more compact, and where it is cooled under heavy masses of earth and rock, it becomes quite solid.

[Sidenote: STARTING FOR VESUVIUS.]

Our party visited Herculaneum after making a journey to Vesuvius. We wished to see the volcano first, and afterwards to explore the city which it had destroyed. We rode out of Naples, after our usual struggle with the hackman, and at Resina left our carriage to proceed on horseback. About half the population gathered to see us off. A staff, or heavy stick, is considered indispensable, and each of us purchased one from the crowd of boys and men, whose wooden material was sufficient for starting a small forest. I think our selection was made from about two hundred and forty-seven sticks, which they simultaneously presented in our faces, and with the demands of the venders and the piteous appeals of forty or fifty beggars, we had, for a few minutes, a concord of sweet Italian sounds.

As soon as we had bought the sticks we used them to clear away the crowd, and as we were all young, reasonably powerful, and as indignant as we were powerful, we made a clear circle around us in a very short time. Then we bargained for animals on which to ride. I obtained a horse, something like those with which the famous Mackerel Brigade was equipped.

[Sidenote: REMARKABLE STEEDS.]

My horse had no hand rail along his deck, by which to cling on, though his back-bone had a close resemblance to a rail with a great many knots on it. He had an elegant selection of knobs sticking out all over him, on which to hang superfluous coats and other garments. One of my companions offered to charter two of the knobs as coat-hooks, but immediately withdrew his offer when the horse which he was to ride was brought out. Mine looked like a frame with a skin drawn over it, but his resembled a frame without any skin. I suggested that, when he got through the journey, he might sell out his horse to be used as a lantern for a light-house, and that the ribs would give a peculiar effect to the rays of light.

The third man of the party obtained a mule that had lost one ear, and had his tail eaten off by the rats. The beast had a habit of going backward faster than forward, and before we had gone a mile we asked the guide to shift the saddle so that our friend’s face could be turned towards the stern of his craft; but the guide insisted that such a thing had never been done, and that the mule would be all right if the man behind him would give an occasional prod with his stick. The fourth man was mounted on a donkey, or mule, or horse; I cannot say exactly what the animal was, but he seemed to be a mixture of the three, with a small infusion of bull-dog and rhinoceros.

He had a hide that would turn a six-pound shot, and as for cudgelling, he rather enjoyed it than otherwise. His rider had brought along a pair of spurs, which he picked up a day or so before in Naples. He proposed to show us his skill in mulemanship, but the mule was so small, and his rider’s legs were so long, that the latter could not reach the beast with his heels. I suggested a dodge which I had seen in practice before. With the spurs on his heels my friend found his feet too far aft, when he raised them, to do any good; I accordingly suggested that, if he buckled the spurs on just below the knees, he would find them to be of more advantage. He tried it with one spur, which had a perceptible effect on the activity of the animal; but, unfortunately, the activity was sidewise, or backwards, or in circles, and not straight ahead. The beast either sidled along the track, or else went in quick plunges, in a way that was very uncomfortable. Our whole cavalcade, considered as an average, did not get along very fast, and every fifteen minutes we had a grand kicking plunge all round; but we were all sufficiently accustomed to the saddle to save ourselves from being thrown. We made about three miles an hour each along the route, or fifteen miles an hour for the five of us, which, on the whole, was not to be considered bad.

The road from Resina winds along sometimes over the lava beds, and sometimes on a carriage-way, constructed at great expense, but now almost entirely useless. In some places the lava, though it had been lying there several years, was quite warm, and there were cracks, from which the heat steadily issued. Lava requires a long time for cooling, and sometimes, where it is of great depth, it will not cool enough for one to walk upon it within two years after it has flowed from the mountain. We got along very well, assisted as we were by the native loafers, who followed us, and occasionally took a turn at, or, rather, with, our animal’s tails. With the mild beasts they got along very well, and I think the animals would have had their tails twisted off before breaking into a run; but the vicious beasts did not like the arrangement, and they either quickened their pace, or let fly their heels at the twisters.

[Sidenote: A SAFE HORSE.]

My horse had been warranted to me as a safe beast, and after we had fairly started, I found that he was pretty nearly as safe as a dead horse. When he began to climb the mountain, he really seemed to be more dead than alive, and no persuasion, whether with my stick or heels, could induce him to break into a run. When we reached the foot of the cone, half a dozen boys offered to hold him; but I concluded he had better hold the boys—one was quite sufficient to keep him quiet while we made the upward journey.

The real work of climbing Vesuvius began at the foot of the cone. The beasts that had brought us would not go beyond this point, and so we dismounted. After refreshing ourselves with a bottle of villanous wine, that tasted of sulphur, sewer-water, and other delightful things, we removed our coats and started upward. There was a fresh lot of loafers, who wanted to assist us. They had chairs strung upon two poles, by which four men could carry a person to the summit. The chairs were very good things in their way, but I preferred to walk, and so did my companions. The path sloped at an angle of forty-five degrees, and was made up of ashes and stones. The natives had arranged the stones in such a way, that a person could step from one to another without great difficulty, only that it happened that the stones were so far apart that they occasionally needed a pretty wide step.

[Sidenote: SEDAN CHAIRS.]

Finding I would not be carried in a chair, the loafers importuned me to be dragged up with a strap or rope. A stout fellow went in front of me, and continually pressed me to seize a strap which he invitingly pushed before my nose. I repeatedly told him that I did not want it; but he stuck to me half way up, and then concluded I was a bad bargain. As I would not accept his offer of assistance, he proposed that I should give him half a franc to leave me. This I refused to do, and told him he might go to the summit if he liked, and enjoy the scenery; but he wanted no summit, unless he could earn something. He started back down the mountain, and I had the pleasure of seeing him miss his footing, and roll to the bottom. I learned afterwards that, most unfortunately, he did not break his neck, and was not seriously injured.

I have had a good deal of climbing in my life, but that was the worst thirteen hundred feet I ever made at one time and in one piece. I had to stop several times on the way up, in order to take breath, and something with it to make the breath go down. One of my friends suggested giving it up when near the summit; he said there had been a great mistake in the statements of the guides and guide-books. I asked him how it was, and he said, “We were informed that donkeys go only to the foot of the cone, and not to the top; but it is my impression that there are now four of the greatest donkeys in the known world trying to reach the summit.” We forgave him for his joke, and, after a mouthful of bad wine, he felt better, and proceeded.

For a good deal of the distance where we climbed it seemed as if we slipped back one step for every two or three that we took forward, and in some places we slipped back two steps where we went forward one. An exhausted Englishman was just ahead of us, and his misery gave us great comfort. One of the Italians had a leather strap fastened about his own neck, and persuaded the Englishman to take hold of it. Another Italian went before the first, and held on to a strap around the first man’s waist. Another Italian went behind the Englishman, and pushed him ahead, so that he managed to get along very fairly.

[Sidenote: AN ENGLISHMAN’S MISHAP.]

At a critical moment the rear Italian slipped; the Englishman slipped next, and pulled down the two fellows in front. The result was, that the whole four were doubled up in a heap, rolled over in the ashes, and lost about fifty feet of distance before they could recover themselves. For about a minute there was a confused mass of legs, arms, and curses, some Italian and some English, which drew forth shouts of laughter from the spectators. The enraged Britisher did not like the journey, and gave up the attempt as a bad job. We were sorry for this, as we expected him to be suffocated in the sulphur fumes at the top, and afford us an opportunity to observe his agony.

When we reached the summit we sat down to rest, and take a little wine. Then the guide led us around to the crater, where the fumes of sulphur and clouds of steam were rising out of the volcano, and around a great, yawning gulf, that was a complete mass of fire. We had to hold our kerchiefs over our noses to save us from suffocation, and even with this it was almost impossible to breathe. The crater, at that time, was comparatively small,—at least, so they told me,—but it seemed to me a very fair crater for all practical purposes. The flames filled it from side to side. Their colors were white, purple, yellow, and crimson, and they threw up clouds of smoke and steam. It seemed as if the summit of the mountain was hollow, and might easily be broken in. If a man should fall into the crater, his chance of escape would be as good as if he was dropped into the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, with a twenty ton anchor fastened to his neck.

It seemed to me as if there might be an eruption at any moment, and I wanted to get away from the place; but the guide said there was no danger, that the crater always filled up before an explosion, and that they knew days and weeks beforehand when it would occur. To convince me that there was no danger, he said that he had a family to support, and wanted to live, though I could see no reason why, and he had no hesitation in going close up to the edge. Although I had no family to support, I knew a man who had one. I therefore concluded to do as he did, and so crept up and looked over, holding the kerchief all the while to my face.

[Sidenote: LOOKING INTO THE CRATER.]

A very brief gaze was sufficient for me, not because the sight was less grand than I had expected, but because the fumes of sulphur were so strong that I feared I might faint, and in falling, drop into that confounded hole. There are various modes of death which I should consider disreputable, and dropping into a volcano is one of them.

We went so near to the fire that I lighted my cigar at the flames of Vesuvius, and as I was quite weary I enjoyed the cigar with a great deal of relish. We cooked some eggs which we purchased of an Italian speculator. He had brought them up at a venture, and provided himself with salt and bread, and a few bottles of wine, so that we were able to make a comfortable meal. Our appetites had been sharpened by the labor of climbing, and we made a hearty repast, the more so as a view was displayed before us which I will not easily forget. Gold and blue, that brilliant gold of the sun, a whole world of cheerful beams, and a splendid azure-blue is lying upon the sea under us. That is a sky so magnificent, so many-colored, as no other country has ever seen. Yonder lies Capri, there Procida, and at a little distance Ischia, all floating upon the water, like so many boats, adorned with many-colored flags, all splendor, all charm. This wreath of villages and cities, washed by the bay of Naples, glistens like marble, and yonder, where the sea pierces so deep in the land, is Naples. That charming city is surrounded by landscapes of the brightest hues, blue, green, life and joy! The Neapolitans, proud of this gem, call her “a piece of paradise lost upon the earth.” A view of the bay of Naples from the top of Vesuvius is probably the most charming one upon earth. The great difficulty of the ascension, and the still greater annoyance of the beggars; and the enormous number of curious visitors, has led a company to project a railroad, which does away with all such troubles. The distance from the suburbs of Naples to the top of Vesuvius is twenty-six miles, twenty-three of which are to be laid with ordinary railroad tracks, and the distance from Atrio del Cavallo to the top, which is the steepest stretch, being three miles, is a wire-rope road, which prevents the cars from sliding back over the steep plane. The plan is made to have the whole road covered with a vaulted roof of lava, to a distance of about one hundred feet from the crater, which will at the same time divide the streaming lava into two tributaries, running on either side of the road, which is built of lava also, and is elevated. The model of the road is the same as that of the _Rigi_. One of the stations of the road is the observatory of Prof. Palmieri, who here feels the pulse of the mountain. He showed us, with the greatest courtesy, the different scientific instruments of which he makes use for his investigations. It would take too much space to describe them here; let it suffice to say that they enable the professor to make his calculations to a nicety, and that we really may say that he “feels the pulse” of the mountain; he not only knows what is going on at the moment in this great reservoir of lava, but he is able to predict an approaching eruption.

[Sidenote: THE PROJECTED RAILROAD.]