Part 5

This cutter, which also fits into the slide rest, is different from the others; and, as its name denominates, the patterns it can cut are almost endless, for it may be turned in any direction. The bed of the slide is the same as with the drill; at the end, No. 1, is a screw, which, when turned by the key, B, inclines the tool-holder, 2, to any angle that may be required, and it is regulated by the lines on the brass plate, 3, which are marked by a small steel point; so that if you wish to cut out a pattern slanting to the right, and another to correspond slanting to the left, you have only to mark the number on the plate, where you cut the first, and then with the key move the cutter to the same position on the opposite side. When the tool-holder, 2, stands straight, as in the plate, the tool cuts horizontally: when it is screwed down to the last line on the plate, it cuts perpendicularly, but the cut always scoops out; and by putting the tool as far out of the holder as you can, the cut will be larger, and the scoop deeper. The back support of the pulley, 4, moves with the tool-holder; and the pulleys, 5, correspond with each; the back one is turned in the same direction as the front one, by unloosing the screw, 6. The gut, after passing over the pulley on the over-head frame, comes through the two back pulleys of the cutter and round the front one, as in the plate; but when the cutter is screwed flat, a short cord, the same as that used for the drill, is sufficient; and the back pulleys are then not necessary. This tool requires constant oiling at D D, for the friction is very great; it also demands much care and delicacy in using it, as it must not be incautiously thrust against the wood, or it will stick fast, and not turn round. There are about four dozen tools, all of the shapes given in the plate, but of various sizes. This cutter slides into the slide rest, and the depth of the cut is, as usual, regulated by the screws at the end, and the cutter is brought to the work by the aid of the same lever as is used for the drill and eccentric cutter. The patterns cut by this tool are counted and regulated by the numbers on the brass wheel, as with the others. When the turner has once tried it, he will readily discover its advantages for all kinds of ornamental work, particularly for the sides of boxes, needle-cases, and many other articles; but it is needless to give many drawings of the patterns, as they much depend upon the taste of the turner.

One beautiful design for a lighter case, or small basket, is worked with this cutter with a flat-ended tool. Turn the work very thin, chuck it firmly, make one cut deep enough to allow the tool _just_ to cut through, and no more. Count thirty on the brass wheel of the lathe every time; the next row make the cut deeper, so that the opening will be larger, then move 60. By this means a piece of ivory will be left standing out, with openings cut between, which, when lined with coloured velvet, looks light and elegant. This row count sixty every time; the next, thirty, as at the beginning.

The needle-case in plate 9, fig. K, is entirely ornamented with this cutter in a variety of patterns. Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 8, are worked with the flat and round-ended tools; 2, with the tool No. 6; 5 with the tool 3; 7, with 4; and 6 with No. 6.

The bottle, B, is also ornamented with the same tools. It is hollow down the neck, and is intended to contain a tin or glass of water; in the stopper is glued a small camel’s-hair brush, which rests in the water, and is meant to be used for wetting postage-stamps, and fastening them upon letters. The bottom of the neck unscrews at fig. 1, and the part below it is hollowed out like a box, to hold the stamps. The neck is ornamented in steps. Set the cutter quite flat, facing the side of the work; use the tool No. 5; cut one line, move the brass wheel of the lathe just far enough to make the second cut join the first, and the same all round. In the next row make the first cut half-way between the others; thus, if you have begun at the numbers, 1, 6, 12, in the second row begin at 3, then go to 9, then to 15, and so on. Every row of steps begins half-way through the former ones, and for each row move the cutter on the slide rest the breadth of the tool. The convex moulding at the bottom of the neck is done by putting one of the hollow tools of the sliding rest into a handle, and rounding the ornament with it. The other patterns are all done with the same cutter, by placing the tools at different angles. In the same plate, 9, the two patterns F and G are very beautiful, they are worked with the eccentric cutter. F resembles the scales of fish lying one over another: put the most angular tool, No. 5, (of the cutter tools), into the cutter; describe a circle from the edge of the middle line to the outer one; cut one circle very _deep_, move ten numbers on the brass wheel of the lathe, and so on to the end.

The pattern, G, is worked exactly the same, only a less angular tool, No. 4, is used, and fewer numbers are counted: it resembles leaves, one lying over the other.

The stopper of the bottle, B, is also ornamented with this cutter, and with an angular tool. First turn the stopper quite circular, (the knob at the top must be glued in afterwards). Set the sliding rest at a convenient distance, and place under it one of the slide-rest tools, so as to raise it in an uneven manner; screw the rest firmly, and set the circle just large enough to encircle half the stopper. By this means the tool cuts the UNDER part of the circle, and passes over the other half: this pattern must be cut very deep, and about five numbers be counted between each cut on the brass wheel of the lathe.

D is another pattern for a stopper; it is worked with a round-ended drill. Cut the holes rather deep, and as near as you can to one another, only leaving a very little thin shell of ivory between them, and the pattern will resemble a honeycomb. The lighter case, E, is ornamented with the drill and vertical cutter. Turn the upper part very thin, then drill long lines quite through the ivory, leaving a space between each; this looks light and elegant, if lined with coloured paper. The base is cut in steps with the vertical cutter; count twenty for each cut; the second row, make each cut between the former ones, moving for each row the breadth of the tool. The top is cut out in leaves with the drill tool No. 8.

To sharpen all these tools, use the goneometer, taking care that you fix it exactly at the proper angle, by counting the position by the numbers. If you do not place the tool just at the right angle, it will cut the patterns quite crooked.

ECCENTRIC CHUCK.

“The centre mov’d—a circle straight succeeds; Another still, and still another spreads.”

Perhaps the most useful of all the additions to the lathe is this chuck, for by its aid the turner can alter the centre of his work as he pleases, producing a great variety of circular lines of different sizes, and other ornaments, which cannot be attempted without it. The tools are those already described belonging to the slide rest, which latter, when used with this chuck, assumes quite a different character than when employed with the eccentric and universal cutters and the drill. With these three, it merely serves to mark, by aid of its screw, the distance they require to be from the work, and the position in which they are to be placed, but does not assist in the size or form of the patterns to be cut; with the eccentric chuck, however, it is quite different. The rest marks the _size_ of the circles, while the chuck fixes their _position_. Thus: suppose you wish to cut a circle, or series of circles, not as in the pattern, No. 1, plate 6, which begin from the centre and gradually enlarge, but like those in No. 3; the slide rest must be set to the proper position, to enable the tool to cut the requisite circle, and then the chuck must be screwed down till the tool arrives opposite the exact place where the pattern is to be worked. With this chuck the over-head frame is no longer used; the brass and fly-wheels being employed together, as in common turning, the chuck having a wheel of its own by which to regulate the patterns. In the annexed plate, fig. 1, is a front view of the eccentric chuck; fig. 2 is the same seen sideways.

A A are two brass plates, with a screw at the back of them, as shown at P, fig. 2; by this screw it fastens on to the mandrel of the lathe like a common chuck. A A are so shaped as to admit of D sliding up and down them, and the four screws enable the slide to be tightened or loosened. Down the middle of the chuck is a screw with a very fine thread; it is turned at either end by the square head, 3, and thus D slides up and down at pleasure, but cannot in any way get out of its proper position, and, above all, can never shake in its bed. E is a brass wheel divided into 120 teeth, upon which the distances are calculated, the same as on the other brass wheel; in the middle of it, F, is a screw, the same in size as that on the mandrel, upon which the chuck that holds the work must be screwed. The wheel, E, has a spring screw, which, by turning back the spring, H, enables you to move the wheel round as many numbers as you wish, and the steel point, K, marks the one you wish to set it at. L is a small wheel with four numbers marked upon it; by setting it at O, the steel screw passes from line to line of the wheel, E, fig. 2; by turning it one line further, it stops at ¼; another line, it stops at ½; and a third, at ⅓; thus enabling you to cut your patterns as fine and delicate as you like.

The square heads, 3 3, are placed at each end of the chuck, so that the plate D can traverse the whole length, and thus enable you to ornament a square or an oblong piece of work; both heads have four numbers marked upon them, by which you regulate the motions of the chuck. For instance, when D D is screwed up level with the black line O, the screw F will be exactly in the centre of the lathe. Now, suppose the tool in the slide rest is set to cut a very small circle, and you wish, having done that one, to cut several others of the same size round it, thus, [Illustration: small wheel] you must turn the chuck down one turn by counting the numbers on the square head, No. 3; and having cut one circle in the proper place, count as many numbers on the brass plate, E, as are necessary to make them fit properly. Should you wish to make a second row of circles larger than the first, besides turning down the chuck, you must, to enlarge them, turn the screw of the slide-rest one turn forwards. All the patterns already given for the eccentric cutter can be done equally well with the eccentric chuck, except the border pattern in No. 4, which can only be worked by the cutter. Patience, calculation, and attention will enable you to perform the most beautiful, minute, and intricate patterns with the eccentric chuck; but though I have endeavoured to give many specimens, when printed they only in a slight degree convey an idea of the real beauty of this kind of turning; the depth of the cut will wholly alter the appearance of a pattern, and the same circles cut with another shaped tool present quite a different appearance; in all, however, there is one rule, which must never be forgotten—viz., be very careful to make your wood or ivory _perfectly_ smooth, flat, and even, before attempting to ornament it, or you will be disappointed by finding that your circles are cut deep in one part and are scarcely visible in another; also remember to _line_ it, as directed when treating of the slide-rest, for this gives much effect to the work.

Pattern 1, plate 11. Begin by the shell. Having smoothed and lined your wood, put a double angular tool (No. 4 of the slide-rest tools) into your rest; turn the slide-screw till the tool is exactly in the centre of your work, when, if you move the wheel round, you will find the tool will only cut a dot. The outer circle is the one with which to commence; turn the slide-rest screw forwards ten whole turns, and you will find you have the circle of the proper size. Now approach the tool to the wood, cut the circle carefully at first, till you decide on the proper depth for the cuts; then set your screw guides, and proceed as follows. For the other ten circles, move the eccentric chuck downwards half a turn, and diminish their size by moving the slide-rest screw backwards half a turn, so as to keep the lower part of each circle in the same place. To have a good effect, shells should be _well cut up_—that is, each circle should be of a sufficient depth for the edge of the cut to meet the former one, and thus efface the lines made in preparing the wood. The rays from the centre are worked with the drill; put a fine round-ended tool, No. 3 of the drill tools, into the drill; place it in the slide rest, stop the fly-wheel, arrange the cords, and set the tool with the screw guides to cut very little at first. By means of the slide-rest screw, push the drill forwards till the tool touches the outer edge of the shell; hold it well up to the work with the lever; make the lathe go very quick, and move the drill on the slide forwards very slowly, by turning the slide-rest wheel round with the key 12 turns FORWARDS, then the same backwards. Move 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the other middle lines, and cut them as above; then move the slide-rest half a turn forwards to shorten the line, and move 1 number on the eccentric chuck wheel, and cut a line moving the slide-rest 11 turns forwards, by which it will be equally shortened at each end. Move to the other side of the long lines and do the same. The whole pattern is done in this manner, counting one for every line on the eccentric chuck wheel, and gradually shortening them by reducing the turns of the slide rest. For the third pattern, which would look better done in dots than in circles, take away the drill, put back the slide rest tool-box, and take a flat-ended tool; set it to cut a dot about the same size as the circles, just deep enough to efface the under lines, so that each dot will look bright and shining. Having cut one, count 2 on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the other 60; then screw the chuck downwards 2 turns, so that the next row may be just above those already done; cut five dots, counting 2 numbers for each, then pass over four and cut five more; and so on to the end. The upper circle is worked precisely the same as the lower one. The outer pattern is done like the arc patterns in plate 12, counting 5 for each arc on the eccentric chuck.

PATTERN 2.

The middle pattern is formed of eight shells, with only four lines in each; but these parts of shells begin at the centre point, not round it, as in the former pattern. Use a double angular tool, screw the tool slide out 10 turns, and the eccentric chuck _downwards_, till the outer or largest circle just touches the centre; cut one circle, move 15 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel; cut another, and continue the same till the eight are done; then diminish each as directed for the shell, counting 15 for every circle. The second pattern, of rings one within another, is worked with the same tool; set it to the centre point of the wood, screw it forwards four turns, then screw the chuck downwards until you can cut a circle just above the shells; count 6 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the 20: then diminish your circles by turning the slide-rest screw _backwards_ half a turn; do the second row, counting 6 as before, and the same for the two inner ones. A still prettier way of doing this pattern is to cut steps instead of circles. Put a fine flat-ended tool into the slide, set it to cut a circle the same circumference as the largest in the pattern; then reduce its size as before, and cut the next deeper, by screwing out the screw guides a very little; the third is still smaller and deeper. A little dot should remain in the middle, standing up as high as the level of the wood; to do this pattern the wood must be thick, as the steps require a certain depth. The outer pattern is done in the same manner as that in pattern 1, only the numbers are counted differently.

PATTERN 3.

Count 40 on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the three large circles, diminish one turn of the eccentric chuck. Then diminish the circle two turns of the rest screw, and lower the eccentric chuck two turns, and cut a circle every 20 numbers; the others are done the same. For the second pattern of circles, cut one for every number on the eccentric chuck wheel; then move one number on the eccentric chuck wheel, and move the eccentric chuck downwards one turn, and cut a circle every 15; by moving the chuck down, and advancing one number every time, the circles are made to incline sideways. The outer pattern is much the same as in the two former ones.

PATTERN 4.

This is a double shell in the centre. Begin with the large circle, having fixed the eccentric chuck wheel at No. 120. Having cut one whole shell, move the wheel to No. 60, and work the other in the same way. For the circles, keep the tool in the same place on the slide rest, and screw the eccentric chuck down two turns to clear the edge of the shell; cut one circle every 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, enlarge the circle by moving the slide rest one turn forwards; cut the second row, and so on till the fourth or largest one is done, then diminish the size for the other two WITHOUT altering the chuck, but counting the same. The white dots are worked out with a flat-ended tool, cutting one every six numbers on the eccentric wheel; then move your chuck downwards three turns, and cut one every 12; this done, move back to the former row to the dot that comes between the circles, replace the double angular tool, enlarge your circle, and cut one every 12; screw the chuck downwards three turns, and proceed the same; then screw the chuck upwards one turn and a half, which will bring your tool to a level with the middle of the two former circles; move the eccentric chuck wheel one number on each side of the former ones, and the rosette will be finished. The border is formed of plain circles, omitting 3 numbers every ninth cut.

PATTERN 5.

The middle and second row of circles are too simple to require explanation. For the clusters of rings, begin with the middle row; cut two a little apart from each other, then one through the middle of them, and so on to the end; set the eccentric chuck wheel to the _middle_ circle of one of the clusters, and move the eccentric chuck downwards, till the tool can cut through the middle of the others, then upwards the same number of turns. The extra half circle is made by moving the wheel of the lathe with the hand, as for the arc patterns, and counting the numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, _between_ those already formed.

PATTERN 6.

This is merely a circle of shells, worked the same as in pattern 1; only with this difference, that each circle is done to correspond in each shell, instead of working every one separately, which would be more tedious; 15 is counted on the eccentric chuck wheel for each row of circles. The rays in the middle are done with the drill; these can also be done without an eccentric chuck; the numbers must then be counted on the fly-wheel, which, for this kind of line work, is kept steady with the stop.

PATTERN 1, PLATE 12.

Cut a small circle, then one every 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel. Move the chuck downwards two turns, and the eccentric chuck wheel 1 number, either backwards or forwards; if the former, the rows of circles will incline to the right; if the latter, to the left. Proceed the same for every row of circles, always counting twelve between each, and advancing the chuck 1 number at the beginning of every new row.

PATTERN 2.

Begin with a small circle in the middle, then turn the eccentric chuck down two turns, and cut one every 15. For the other two rows proceed the same, lowering the chuck two turns, and counting 15 for each on the eccentric chuck wheel. For the chain work, cut a circle every 15 near the edge; then screw the eccentric chuck one turn upwards, move 1 on the eccentric chuck wheel on each side of the others; thus, if the upper row of circles begin at 120, the second row will begin at Nos. 1 and 119, then at Nos. 14 and 16, and so on: the third and fourth rows are the same as the two first; and the last is cut between the others.

Patterns 3 and 4 are called arc patterns, and are worked in a different manner. In plate 4, fig. A is a drawing of the brass fly-wheel of the lathe, with the numbers marked upon it. D is a brass circle half an inch wide, which is attached to it: and upon which are marked 144 lines, every 18 of which is described by a number. B B are pieces of brass which, by means of a groove in the edge of the circle, fit upon two steel slides that fit into the groove, and are kept firm by two nuts, which fix them opposite any number you wish. P is a long thin piece of steel, which enters by one end the bed of the lathe, so as always to stand quite upright, by which means, when the brass fly-wheel is gently turned with the hand, the flat end of the stop, P, catches upon the lower piece of brass, B, and if you reverse the motion of the fly-wheel, the other piece, B, will rest upon the stop, so that you will find the wheel can only turn half or three parts round, just as you choose to set the stops. These patterns, it will immediately be seen, are worked with the hand, which must guide the wheel slowly up and down; therefore slip off the cord, and having arranged a double angular tool in the slide rest, hold it up to the centre of the work, put the stop, P, into the hole, _n_, of the bed of the lathe, and gently move the wheel till you find the extent of circle you wish to cut; fasten on one slide firmly, then fix the other end of the arc, and fasten the other slide. This done, approach the tool carefully to the wood, and cut the first long arc by moving the fly-wheel with your left hand as far up and down as the stop will allow; then move 20 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for every one of the other five arcs, and cut them in the same way. After these are completed, move one number on the eccentric chuck wheel and unscrew the UPPER slide, and move it down as many lines as you think fit, in order to shorten the next arc; count 20, as before, for every other of the 5. Each row is worked the same, shortening the arcs and advancing one number on the eccentric chuck wheel for each row. Pattern 4, and the border in pattern 1, plate 11., all are done in the same manner, only counting differently. A great variety of arcs can be worked, and have a very curious effect, but you must be careful in cutting them not to let the tool go too deeply into the wood or ivory, or it will either stick fast, or else cut jagged, uneven arcs; rather prefer to spend more time over the work, by working the arcs over and over again till the proper depth is obtained.

These patterns will enable the learner easily to discover and invent many others, all beautiful when properly and neatly worked.

PATTERN 5.

Cut a circle every 24 numbers of the eccentric chuck wheel. Lower the chuck one turn, and cut a circle on each side of the former ones, so as to form the five knots of threes. The edge is worked like the arc patterns, making each half circle meet and join with a dot, cut with a small flat-ended tool.

PATTERN 6.

For the border cut three circles, one for each number on the eccentric chuck wheel, then cut another at 6, 7, and 8, and so on till all are done. The pattern in the middle needs no explanation.