Part 1

{Transcriber's Note: Archaic typography which displays the letter "s" in a form that resembles the letter "f" has been transposed to the modern "s." British, archaic and inconsistent spellings have been left as in the original, as have capitalization and italicisation. A few obvious typographical errors have been changed. Margin notes are indicated where they occur in the text with {MN} and inserted in full at the end of the paragraph to which they refer.}

* * * * *

THE TRUE TRAVELS, ADVENTURES, AND OBSERVATIONS, OF Captain JOHN SMITH, INTO EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA, and AMERICA,

From Ann. Dom. 1593. to 1629.

* * * * *

* * * * *

To the Right Honourable

_WILLIAM_ Earl of _PEMBROKE,_ Lord Steward of His Majesty's most Honourable Houshold.

_ROBERT_ Earl of _LINDSEY,_ Great Chamberlain of _England,_

_HENRY_ Lord _HUNSDON,_ Viscount _ROCHFORD,_ Earl of _DOVER,_

_And all your Honourable Friends and Well-willers._

My Lords,

Sir _Robert Cotton,_ that most Learned Treasurer of Antiquity, having by perusal of my General History, and others, found that I had likewise undergone divers other as hard hazards in the other Parts of the World, requested me to fix the whole Course of my Passages in a Book by it self, whose noble Desire I could not but in part satisfie; the rather, because they have acted my fatal Tragedies upon the Stage, and racked my Relations at their Pleasure. To prevent therefore all future Misprisions, I have compiled this true Discourse. Envy hath taxed me to have writ too much, and done too little; but that such should know, how little I esteem them, I have writ this, more for the satisfaction of my Friends, and all generous and well disposed Readers. To speak only of my self were intolerable Ingratitude; because, having had so many Co-Partners with me; I cannot make a Monument for my self, and leave them unburied in the Fields, whose Lives begot me the Title of a Soldier; for as they were Companions with me in my Dangers, so shall they be partakers with me in this Tomb.

For my _Sea Grammar_ (caused to be Printed by my worthy Friend, Sir _Samuel Saltenstall_) hath found such good Entertainment abroad, that I have been importuned by many noble Persons, to let this also pass the Press. Many of the most eminent Warriours, and others, what their Swords did, their Pens writ: Though I be never so much their inferiour, yet I hold it no great Errour, to follow good Examples; nor repine at them will do the like.

And now, _My most Honourable good Lords,_ I know not to whom I may better Present it, than to your Lordships, whose Friendships, as I conceive, are as much to each others, as my Duty is to you all; and because you are acquainted both with my Endeavours, and Writings, I doubt not, but your Honours will as well accept of this, as of the rest, and Patronize it under the shadow of your most noble Virtues, which I am ever bound in all Duty to Reverence, and under which I hope to have shelter, against all Storms that dare threaten,

_Yours Honours to be Commanded,_

John Smith.

* * * * *

THE TRUE TRAVELS, ADVENTURES, AND OBSERVATIONS OF Captain _JOHN SMITH,_

* * * * *

CHAP. I.

_His Birth; Apprenticeship; Going into_ France; _His beginning with Ten Shillings and three Pence; His Service in the_ Netherlands; _His bad Passage into_ Scotland; _His return to_ Willoughby, _and how he lived in the Woods._

He was born in _Willoughby_ in _Lincoln-shire,_ and a Scholar in the two Free-Schools of _Alford_ and _Louth._ His Father antiently descended from the ancient _Smiths_ of _Crudley_ in _Lancashire;_ his Mother from the _Rickards_ at Great _Heck,_ in _York-shire._ His Parents dying when he was about Thirteen Years of Age, left him a competent Means, which he not being capable to manage, little regarded; his Mind being even then set upon brave Adventures, sold his Satchel, Books, and all he had, intending secretly to get to Sea, but that his Fathers Death stay'd him. But now the Guardians of his Estate more regarding it than him, he had liberty enough, though no Means, to get beyond the Sea. About the Age of Fifteen Years, he was bound an Apprentice to Mr. _Thomas Sendalt_ of _Linne,_ the greatest Merchant of all those Parts; but because he would not presently send him to Sea, he never saw his Master in Eight Years after. At last he found Means to attend Mr. _Peregrine Berty_ into _France_, second Son to the Right Honourable _Peregrine_, that generous Lord _Willoughby,_ and famous Soldier; where coming to his Brother _Robert,_ then at _Orleans,_ now Earl of _Lindsey_, and Lord Great Chamberlain of _England;_ being then but little Youths under Tutorage: His Service being needless, within a Month or six Weeks they sent him back again to his Friends; who when he came from _London_, they liberally gave him (but out of his own Estate) Ten Shillings to be rid of him; such oft is the share of Fatherless Children: But those two Honourable Brethren gave him sufficient to return for _England._ But it was the least thought of his Determination, for now being freely at liberty in _Paris_, growing acquainted with one Mr. _David Hume,_ who making some use of his Purse, gave him Letters to his Friends in _Scotland_ to prefer him to King _James._ Arriving at _Roan,_ he better bethinks himself, seeing his Money near spent, down the River he went to _Haver de grace,_ where he first began to learn the Life of a Soldier: Peace being concluded in _France,_ he went with Captain _Joseph Duxbury_ into the Low-Countries, under whose Colours, having served three or four Years, he took his Journey for _Scotland,_ to deliver his Letters. At _Ancusan_ he imbark'd himself for _Lethe,_ but as much danger, as Shipwreck and Sickness could endure, he had at the Holy Isle in _Northumberland_ near Berwick, ( being recovered ) into _Scotland_ he went to deliver his Letters. After much kind usage among those honest _Scots_ at _Ripweth_ and _Broxmoth,_ but neither Money nor Means to make him a Courtier, he returned to _Willoughby_ in _Lincoln-shire;_ where within a short time, being glutted with too much Company, wherein he took small delight, he retired himself into a little Woody Pasture, a good way from any Town, invironed with many hundred Acres of other Woods: Here, by a fair Brook he built a Pavillion of Boughs, where only in his Cloths he lay. His Study was _Machiavil's_ Art of War, and _Marcus Aurelius;_ his exercise a good Horse, with his Lance and Ring; his Food was thought to be more of Venison than any thing else; what he wanted his Man brought him. The Country wondering at such an Hermite, his Friends perswaded one Seignior _Theodora Polaloga,_ Rider to _Henry_ Earl of _Lincoln,_ an excellent Horse Man, and a Noble _Italian_ Gentleman, to insinuate into his Woodish Acquaintance, whose Languages and good Discourse, and Exercise of Riding drew him to stay with him at _Tattersall._ Long these Pleasures could not content him, but he returned again to the Low Countries.

* * * * *

CHAP. II.

_The notable Villany of four_ French _Gallants, and his revenge;_ Smith _thrown over-board; Captain_ La Roche _of Saint_ Malo _relieves him._

Thus when _France_ and _Netherlands_ had taught him to Ride a Horse, and use his Arms, with such Rudiments of War, as his tender Years in those Martial Schools could attain unto; he was desirous to see more of the World, and try his Fortune against the _Turks,_ both repenting and lamenting to have seen so many _Christians_ slaughter one another. {MN} Opportunity calling him; into the Company of four _French_ Gallants well attended, faining to him the one to be a great Lord, the rest his Gentlemen, and that they were all devoted that way; over-perswaded him to go with them into _France,_ to the Dutchess of _Merceur,_ from whom they should not only have Means, but also Letters of Favour to her Noble Duke, then General for the Emperour _Rolduphus_ in _Hungary;_ which he did, with such ill Weather as Winter affordeth, in the dark Night they arrived in the broad shallow In-let of St. _Valleries sur Soame_ in _Picardie;_ His _French_ Lord knowing he had good Apparel, and better furnished with Money than themselves, so Plotted with the Master of the Ship, to set his and their own Trunks ashore, leaving _Smith_ aboard till the Boat could return, which was the next day after, towards Evening: The reason he alledged, was, the Sea went so high he could come no sooner, and that his Lord was gone to _Amiens,_ where they would stay his coming; which treacherous Villany, when divers other Soldiers, and Passengers understood, they had like to have slain the Master, and had they known how, would have run away with the Ship.

* * * * *

{MN} _A notable Villany of four_ French _Gallants._

Coming on shoar, he had but one _Cavvalue,_ {MN-1} was forced to sell his Cloak to pay for his Passage. One of the Soldiers, called _Curzianvere,_ compassionating his Injury, assured him, this great Lord _Depreau_ was only the Son of a Lawyer of _Mortaigne_ in base _Britany,_ and his Attendants _Cursell, La Nelie,_ and _Monserrat,_ three young Citizens, as arrant Cheats as himself; but if he would accompany him, he would bring him to their Friends, but in the _interim_ supplied his wants: Thus Travelling by _Deepe, Cadebeck, Humphla, Pount-demer_ in _Normandy,_ they came to _Caen_ in base _Normandy;_ where both this Noble _Curzianvere,_ and the great Prior of the great Abbey of St. _Steven_ (where is the ruinous Tomb of _William_ the Conqueror) and many other of his Friends kindly welcomed him, and brought him to _Montaigne,_ where he found _Depreau_ and the rest, but to small purpose; for Mr. _Curzianvere_ was a banished Man, and durst not be seen but to his Friends: yet the bruit of their Cozenage occasioned the Lady _Collumber,_ the Baron _Larshan,_ the Lord _Shasghe,_ and divers other honourable Persons, to supply his wants, and with them to recreate him-self so long as he would; But such pleasant pleasures suited little with his poor Estate, and his restless Spirit, that could never find content, to receive such Noble Favours, as he could neither deserve nor requite: But wandering from Port to Port to find some Man of War, spent that he had, and in a Forest, near dead with grief and cold, a rich Farmer found him by a fair Fountain, under a Tree: This kind Peasant relieved him again to his content, to follow his intent. {MN-2} Not long after, as he passed thorow a great Grove of Trees, between _Pounterson_ and _Dina_ in _Britany,_ it was his chance to meet _Cursell,_ more miserable than himself: His piercing Injuries had so small patience, as without any word they both drew, and in a short time _Cursell_ fell to the Ground, where, from an old ruinated Tower, the Inhabitants seeing them, were satisfied, when they heard _Cursell_ confess what had formerly passed; and that how, in the dividing that they had stolen from him, they fell by the Ears amongst themselves, that were Actors in it; but for his part, he excused himself to be innocent as well of the one, as of the other. In regard of his hurt, _Smith_ was glad to be so rid of him, directing his course to an honourable Lord, the Earl of _Ployer,_ {MN-3} who during the War in _France,_ with his two Brethren, Viscount _Poomory,_ and Baron _d'Mercy,_ who had been brought up in _England;_ by him he was better refurnished than ever. When they had shewed him Saint _Malo_ Mount, Saint _Michael, Lambal, Simbreack, Lanion,_ and their own fair Castle of _Tuncadeck, Gingan,_ and divers other places in _Britany_ (and their British _Cornwaile_) taking his leave, he took his way to _Raynes,_ the _Britains_ chief City, and so to _Nants, Poyters, Rochel,_ and _Bourdeaux._ The rumour of the strength of _Bayon_ in _Biskay,_ caused him to see it; and from thence took his way from _Leskar_ in _Bicarne,_ and _Paw,_ in the Kingdom of _Navarre_ to _Tolouza_ in _Gascoigne, Bezers,_ and _Carcassone, Narbone, Montpelier, Nimes_ in _Languedeck,_ and thorow the Country of _Avignion,_ by _Aries_ to _Marseilles_ in _Provence,_ there imbarking himself for _Italy;_ the Ship was inforced to _Tolonne,_ and putting again to Sea, ill Weather so grew upon them, that they Anchored close aboard the Shoar, under the little Isle of St. _Mary,_ against _Nice_ in _Savoy._ Here the inhuman Provincials, with a Rabble of Pilgrims of divers Nations going to _Rome,_ hourly cursing him, not only for a _Hugonot_ but his Nation they swore were all Pirats, and so vilely railed on his dread Soveraign Queen _Elizabeth,_ and that they never should have fair Weather so long as he was aboard them; their Disputations grew to that Passion, that they threw him over board, yet God brought him to that little Isle, where was no Inhabitants, but a few Kine and Goats. The next Morning, he espied two Ships more riding by them, put in by the Storm, that fetched him aboard, well refreshed him, and so kindly used him, that he was well contented to try the rest of his Fortune with them. {MN-5} After he had related unto them his former Discourse, what for pity, and the love of the Honourable Earl of _Ployer,_ this Noble _Britain_ his Neighbour, Captain _la Roche_ of Saint _Malo,_ regarded and entertained him for his well respected Friend. With the next fair Wind, they Sailed along by the Coast of _Corsica_ and _Sardinia,_ and crossing the Gulf of _Tunis,_ passed by Cape _Bona_ to the Isle of _Lempadosa,_ leaving the Coast of _Barbary_ till they came at _Cape Rasata,_ and so along the _African_ Shoar, for _Alexandria_ in _AEgypt._ There delivering their Fraught, they went to _Seandaroone,_ rather to view what Ships were in the Road, than any thing else: keeping their Course by _Cypres,_ and the Coast of _Asia,_ Sailing by _Rhodes_, the _Archipelagus, Candia,_ and the Coast of _Grecia,_ and the Isle of _Zefalonia._ They lay to and again a few days, betwixt the Isle of _Corsue,_ and the Cape of _Orranto,_ in the Kingdom of _Naples,_ in the Entrance of the _Adriatick_ Sea.

* * * * *

{MN-1} _A Cavvalue is in value a penny._

{MN-2} _Here he incountred one of the thieves._

{MN-3} _The Nobleness of the Earl of_ Plover.

{MN-4} _An inhuman act of the Provincials in casting him overboard._

{MN-5} _Capt._ La Roche _relieves him._

* * * * *

CHAP. III.

_A desperate Sea Fight in the Streights; His Passage to_ Rome, Naples, _and the view of_ Italy.

Betwixt the two _Capes_, they met with an _Argosie_ of _Venice_; it seemed the Captain desired to speak with them, whose untoward answer was such, as slew them a Man; {MN} whereupon the _Britain_ presently gave them the Broad-side, then his Stern, and his other Broad-side also, and continued the Chase, with his chase Pieces, till he gave them so many Broad-sides one after another, that the _Argosies_ Sails and Tackling was so torn, she stood to her defence, and made shot for shot; twice in one hour and a half the _Britain_ boarded her, yet they cleared themselves, but clapping her aboard again, the _Argosie_ fired him, which with much danger to them both was presently quenched. This rather augmented the _Britain's_ rage, than abated his courage; for having reaccommodated himself again, shot her so oft between Wind and Water, she was ready to sink, then they yielded; the _Britain_ lost fifteen Men, she twenty, besides divers were hurt, the rest went to Work on all hands; some to stop the Leaks, others to guard the Prisoners that were chained, the rest to ride her. The Silks, Velvets, Cloth of Gold, and Tissue, Piasters, Chicqueens and Sultanies, which is Gold and Silver, they unloaded in four and twenty hours, was wonderful, whereof having sufficient, and tired with toil, they cast her off with her Company, with as much good Merchandize as would have fraughted such another _Britain_, that was but two Hundred Tuns, she four or five Hundred.

* * * * *

{MN} _A desperate Sea Fight._

To repair his Defects, he stood for the Coast of _Calabria_, but hearing there was six or seven Galleys at _Messina,_ he departed thence for _Malta;_ but the Wind coming fair, he kept his course along the Coast of the Kingdom of _Sicilia_, by _Sardinia_ and _Corsica_, till he came to the Road of _Antibo_ in _Peamon,_ where he set _Smith_ on shoar with five Hundred Chicqueens, and a little Box God sent him worth near as much more. Here he left this Noble _Britain_, and embarked himself for _Legorn,_ being glad to have such opportunity and means to better his Experience by the view of _Italy;_ and having passed _Tuskany,_ and the Country of _Siena,_ where he found his dear Friends, the two Honourable Brethren, the Lord _Willoughby,_ and his Brother cruelly wounded, in a desperate fray, yet to their exceeding great Honour. Then to _Viterbo_ and many other Cities he came to _Rome,_ from where it was his chance to see Pope Clement the VIII. with many Cardinals, creep up the Holy Stairs, {MN} which they say, are those our Savior Christ went up to _Pontius Pilate,_ where blood, falling from his Head, being pricked with his Crown of Thorns, the drops are marked with Nails of Steel, upon them none dare go but in that manner, saying so many _Ave-Maries_ and _Pater-Nosters,_ as is their Devotion, and to kiss the Nails of Steel: But on each side, is a pair of such like Stairs, upon which you may go, stand, or kneel, but divided from the Holy Stairs by two Walls: Right against them is a Chappel, where hangs a great Silver Lamp, which burneth continually; yet they say, the Oil neither increaseth nor diminisheth. A little distant is the ancient Church of Saint _John de Lateran,_ where he saw him say Mass, which commonly he doth upon some Friday once a Month. Having saluted Father _Parsons,_ that famous _English_ Jesuit, and satisfied himself with the Rarities of _Rome,_ he went down the River of _Tiber_ to _Civita Vechia,_ where he embarked himself, to satisfie his Eye with the fair City of _Naples,_ and her Kingdoms Nobility; returning by _Capua, Rome_ and _Siena,_ he passed by that admired City of _Florence,_ the Cities and Countreys of _Bolonia, Ferrara, Mantua, Padua_ and _Venice,_ whose Gulf he passed from _Malamoco_ and the _Adriatic_ Sea for _Ragouza,_ spending some time to see that barren, broken Coast of _Albania_ and _Dalmatia,_ to _Capo de Istria,_ Travelling the main of poor _Sclavonia_ by _Lubbiano,_ till he came to _Grates_ in _Styria,_ the Seat of _Ferdinando,_ Arch-duke of _Austria,_ now Emperour of _Almania:_ where he met an _English_ Man, and an _Irish_ Jesuit, who acquainted him with many brave Gentlemen of good Quality, especially with the Lord _Ebersbaught,_ with whom, trying such Conclusions, as he projected to undertake, preferred him to Baron _Kisell,_ General of the Artillery, and he to a worthy Colonel, the Earl of _Meldritch,_ with whom, going to _Vienna_ in _Austria,_ under whose Regiment, in what Service, and how he spent his time, this ensuing Discourse will declare.

* * * * *

{MN} _The Popes holy stairs brought from_ Jerusalem, _whereon (they say) Christ went up to_ Pontius Pilate.

* * * * *

CHAP. IV.

_The Siege of_ Olumpagh; _An excellent Stratagem by_ Smith; _Another not much worse._

After the loss of _Caniza,_ the _Turks_ with Twenty thousand besieged the strong Town of _Olumpagh_ so straitly, as they were cut off from all intelligence and hope of succour; till _John Smith,_ this _English_ Gentleman, acquainted Baron _Kisell,_ General of the Arch-dukes Artillery, he had taught the Governour, his worthy Friend, such a Rule, that he would undertake to make him know any thing he intended, and have his answer, would, they bring him but to some place where he might make the Flame of a Torch seen to the Town; _Kisell_ inflamed with this strange Invention, _Smith_ made it so plain, that forthwith he gave him Guides, who in the dark Night brought him to a Mountain, where he shewed three Torches equidistant from the other, which plainly appearing to the Town, the Governour presently apprehended, and answered again with three Other fires in like manner; each knowing the others being and intent; _Smith,_ though distant seven Miles, signified to him these Words: _On Thursday at Night I will charge on the East, at the Alarum, salley you;_ Ebersbaught answered, _he would,_ and thus it was done: First he writ his Message as brief, you see, as could be, then divided the Alphabet into two parts thus;

_A. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. i. k. l._ _I. I. I. I. I. I. I. I. I. I. I._

_m. n. o. p. q. r. s. t. v. w. x._ _2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2._ _y. z._ _2. 2._

* * * * *

{MN} _The siege of_ Olumpagh.

{M-1} The first part from _A._ to _L._ is signified by shewing and hiding one link, so oft as there is Letters from _A._ to that Letter you mean; the other part from _M._ to _Z._ is mentioned by two Lights in like manner. The end of a Word is signified by shewing of three Lights, ever staying your Light at that Letter you mean, till the other may write it in a Paper, and answer by his signal, which is one Light, it is done, beginning to count the Letters by the Lights, every time from _A._ to _M._ by this means also the other returned his answer, whereby each did understand other. The Guides all this time having well viewed the Camp, returned to _Kisel,_ who, doubting of his power, being but Ten thousand, was animated by the Guides, how the _Turks_ were so divided by the River in two parts, they could not easily second each other. {MN-2} To which _Smith_ added this conclusion; that two or three thousand pieces of Match fastened to divers small Lines of an hundred Fathom in length, being armed with Powder, might all be fired and stretched at an instant before the Alarum, upon the Plain, of _Hysnaburg,_ supported by two Staves, at each lines end, in that manner would seem like so many Musketteers; which was put in Practice; and being discovered by the _Turks,_ they prepared to encounter these false fires, thinking there had been some great Army: whilst _Kisel_ with his Ten thousand being entred the _Turks_ quarters, who ran up and down as Men amazed, it was not long ere _Ebersbaught_ was pell-mell with them in their Trenches; in which distracted confusion, a third part of the Turks that besieged that side towards _Knowsbruck,_ were slain; many of the rest drowned, but all fled. The other part of the Army was so busied to resist the false fires, that _Kisel_ before the Morning put two thousand good Soldiers in the Town, and with small loss was retired; the Garrison was well relieved with what they found in the _Turks_ Quarters, which caused the _Turks_ to raise their Siege and return to _Caniza:_ and _Kisel_ with much honour was received at _Kerment,_ and occasioned the Author a good Reward and Preferment, to be Captain of Two hundred and fifty Horse-men, under the conduct of Colonel _Voldo,_ Earl of _Meldritch._

* * * * *

{MN-1} _An excellent Stratagem._

{MN-2} _Another stratagem._

* * * * *

CHAP. V.

_The Siege of_ Stoll-weissenburg; _The effects of_ Smith's _Fire-works; A worthy Exploit of Earl_ Rosworme; _Earl_ Meldritch _takes the_ Bashaw _Prisoner._