Part 6

Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin. At times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town being made, at a small expence. The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety and comfort of Navigators. The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig, through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles; from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.

This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient comfortable accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly, nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of visitors. Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached, (which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly.

Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi, unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen. The representative of the place is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or non-resident, admitted to their Freedom. Bondsmen in former times, living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here. The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston, and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised on their ancestor. It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos; and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793. Leland, who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said straits of the Menai.”

In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of Mariners. There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air, than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19, aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39, from 50 to 60.”

In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon. There are five Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th, September 20, and December 5.

The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette, November 27, 1812, signed JUNIUS, which may not be thought out of place here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this Town:

Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber? Are thy sainted Bards no more? Once it breath’d a sweeter number Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore.

Where are now those magic wonders, Which its touch could once inspire? Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders, Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.

Are thy glories sunk for ever, Are they set to rise no more? Must we henceforth hail them never, On this muse-deserted shore?

Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me, Thus bewail her ancient seat, Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me, Echoing thus the cry of fate:—

“Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin! Waft on soft Elysian gales, To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson, To some favour’d child of Wales.

“Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him, Strike him with thy hallow’d fire: Prostrate nations shall adore him, Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.

“Thus shall Cambria once more flourish, High, as e’er in times of yore; And her sacred soil, still nourish Heav’n born bards for evermore.”

We cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be not already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality, which has been denominated the “_Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd_;” and whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical, Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of National Music. The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. An Eisteddfod, or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne. A similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside. Several Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance.

Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to the South East of the present Town, and is intersected by the road leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: {91} it is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the South East corner. Some years back there appeared the remnant of a building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a _Hypocaust_. The mortar in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand. This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent, seemingly from four to six Acres. Camden suspects that this might have been the _Setantiorum_, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it _Segontiorum_, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth of the Ribble. He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been, in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and that _Hugh Lupus_, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a temporary post. Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius). Mr. Rowlands in his history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed Saint had a Chapel {92} here, which, he tells us, was in being in his days. Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight inches, thickness six feet. A great part of the facing is taken away, which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion. Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole thickness. There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways. There are various conjectures respecting the use for which these were intended, the most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar, which was poured into the work in a liquid state. Near one corner, some years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved, and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser animals. There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS. And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head, and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII. on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand, and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG COS IIII. And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs Constantine. Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish Rovers) removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about 200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium. The Roman road from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the Common was cultivated.

The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a religious habit. Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince, it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese. In a recess to the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and Margaret his Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593. {95}—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved; he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist. And in the Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, _Cae Bold_, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold, Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton, Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663. And near it the following: Here lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645. In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription;

In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit, Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest, Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua; Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra, Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo, Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac _Spicer_ nata Johanne; Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,

Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst resident at Carnarvon: 1st. He may either cross the Strait by the Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or, engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it contained only eight small houses, (then called _Weles_,) yet in the reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses, reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls _ichthuomania_, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr, one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge, Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of Brychan, one of the holy _Colidei_, or primitive Christians of Britain, who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before mentioned. The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40 years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men when called out on permanent duty.

Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing, during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot, Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind; Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast. There is a small Creek, or Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to await the return of the Tide. A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch, have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of Navigators. The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand banks. The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may not probably be displeased with our introducing here, a part of Gray’s spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode, {98a} celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o hil Rodri,” &c.

Owen’s praise demands my Song, Owen swift and Owen strong,— Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,— Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem: He nor heaps his brooded stone, Nor on all profusely pours; Lord of every regal art, Liberal hand, and open heart.

Big with hosts of mighty name, Squadron’s three against him came; This the force of Erin hiding, Side by side as proudly riding; On her shadow, long and gay Lochlin plows the wat’ry way: There, the Norman sails afar, Catch the winds, and join the war; Black and huge along they sweep, Burthens of the angry deep.

Dauntless on his native sands, The Dragon {98b} son of Mona stands, In glittering arms and glory drest, High he rears his ruby crest. There the thund’ring strokes begin, There the press, and there the din; _Tal y Moelfre’s_ {98c} rocky shore Echoing to the battle’s roar; Check’d by the torrent tide of blood, Backward _Menai_ rolls his flood; While heap’d the Hero’s feet around, Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground: Where his glowing eye-balls turn, Thousand banners round him burn; Where he points his purple spear, Hasty, hasty rout is there; Marking with indignant eye, Fear to stop, and shame to fly: There Confusion, Terror’s child, Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild, Agony, that pants for breath, Despair, and honourable death.

The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it. The whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr, (a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles. Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four o’clock. The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts (of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a sufficient direction. It is thought necessary to mention these particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point the way, and but few of the country people understand the English language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,) there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called _Castellmai_, the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq. John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer, Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn, Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.: Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams, Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.

There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg yn Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland. The river _Gorfai_ is the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it, which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable _tumulus_, or eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert. About a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a small Church, dedicated to _St. Gwyndaf_. The Rectorial Tithes are annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage, which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan, dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and of Llan Faglan 102. Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in all its grandeur and magnificence. This Defile is bounded on the South and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his new Dominions. The place which he occupied here during that time, was called Bala {103} Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.