Part 3

“It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances, into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which those interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we, indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at Pen-isa-nant.”

The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on the road to Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist; it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of the artist. Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect _bijou_, designed by the late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry, or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity. Near to this is Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the nature of its object. These two places are accessible to all respectable visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape. The present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom the property was left. This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of improvement no less active than his noble predecessor. The Park, which till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence, has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and characteristic of the county, being formed of the waste ends of the Slate rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building, containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to it. This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and commodiousness in the kingdom. Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned. The principal rooms are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid and unmeaning attempt at all. Rumour however says, that the present proprietor contemplates some very important improvements. The situation is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice.

Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded to) is situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work at Penrhyn Castle. The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.

Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them. The vastly increasing demand for these Slates, {38} necessarily requires a proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay, at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and will greatly facilitate the Trade there. The beautiful Bridge too, which Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete Shipping places in the Principality. The Slates are conveyed from the Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a rail-road. The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable.

Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation. The view from the Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly so. The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.

From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we must now (as faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the old line. It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an insecure foundation. But before we proceed farther, and that we may preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a short History of

BANGOR.

So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called _Tor onnen_, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea, Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town. St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550. This Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd. The above St. Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines:

Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi, (Drwy arch y Prophwydi) Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.

“When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St. David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of Bardsey.”

The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; in Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.

The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient, but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord Chancellor’s decision as to the _quantum_ of Grant, which his Lordship may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the inside. From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6 feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54 feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110 feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208. The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24 feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and South Aisles is 4 feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren. There are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, {43} Chancellor, and three Canons, not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers, and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened Edward the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth). In his time also the house in London was given. The offices secundum usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library, and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar, and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom. In the year 1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by Bishop Dean or Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following inscription, at the West end, “_Thomas Skevington_, _Episcopus Bangoriæ_, _hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus_ 1532.” The height of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that design. The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the Bells. On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810. Bishop H. Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands died July 1616, and is here buried, _ætatis_ 65; here also is buried Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, _ætat._ 78. About the space of two stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died September, 1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate upon it, is this inscription: “_Gulielmus __Glynn natus in Insula Mona_, _&c._” he was Bishop of Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes, in 1169. On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of Richard III. and Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice) ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence. He died the 13th of August 1502. The place of his interment was till within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by the name of _Bedd y Deon Du_, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so called, in all probability, from his complexion. It appears, from the Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a vestige now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai, before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar. This great Prelate was born at Conway; his father, _Edmund_, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of _Cochwillan_, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s Collections. Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey, where the persons represented had been interred.

The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie. The residence of the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the Cathedral.

Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands, a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner, about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was interred here in 1311. Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to Bishop Glynn. By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s, who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor. A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren, and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the School. Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence, (Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this portion of the principality.

Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616. The Dispensary, a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City, October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It is with heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the House Apothecary.

The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the reader, the author is unknown:

Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire, And mute those strings, whose magic tone Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire, And move to life her mountain stone.

Cold is the hand, that once could sweep The native Harp, with Bardic sway; Could lull each passion rude to sleep, And drive the steps of care away.

Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here, To kiss the Harp your master sway’d, And o’er it drop the mournful tear, And let it in his grave be laid.

For now like him ’tis mute and dead, Its accents all are hush’d and still; The power is gone—the spirit fled, And every nerve in death is chill.

But shall that spirit rise no more, And shall its powers no more revive, And, on this “Muse deserted shore,” Shall no such Bard hereafter live?

Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream, And raise thy drooping downcast head; Nor longer drop the pearly stream, Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.

For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine, In ages yet unborn may rise; Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line, And lift thy glory to the skies.