Part 9

From thence I imbarked, and arrived at Angusa in [Parir.] Parir: This Ile is forty miles long, and sixe miles broad: being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the use of man: It was aunciently called Demetriado, whose length lieth South-west, and North-East: And hard by the high Mountaine of Camphasia, neere to Angusa, on a faire Valley standeth the auncient Temple of Venus, never a whit decayed to this day: This Ile was given to the Venetians by Henry the Constantinopolitan Emperour, and brother to Baldwin Earle of Flanders: and it was seazed upon by Mahomet, when Nigropont, and diverse other Iles were surprised from the Venetians.

In Angusa I stayed sixteene dayes, storme-sted with Northernely winds; and in all that time, I never came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Chappell a mile without the Village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meate. The Greekes visited me oftentimes, & intreated me above all things I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary; because I was not of their Religion. But I in regard of the longsome and cold nights, was enforced every night to creepe in, in the midst or the Sanctuary to keepe my selfe warme, which Sanctuary was nothing but an Aultar hembd in with a partition wall about my height, dividing the little roome from the body of the Chappell.

These miserable Ilanders, are a kind of silly poore people; which in their behaviour, shewed the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure in their living. From thence I imbarked on a small barke of ten Tunnes come from Scithia in Candy, and loaden with Oyle, and about midday we arrived in the Ile of Mecano, where we but only dined, and so set forward to Zea.

This Mecano was formely called Delos, famous for the Temple of Apollo, being the chiefe Ile of the Cyclades, the rest of the 54. incircling it: Delos signifieth apparant, because at the request of Juno, when all the earth had [Latona receaved in Delos.] abjured the receipt of Latona: This Iland then under the water, was by Jupiter erected aloft, and fixt to receive her, wherein she was delivered of Apollo, and Diana:

---- erratica Delos, &c.

Ovid. Unsetled Delos, floating on the maine, Did wandring Laton kindly entertaine; In spight of Juno, fatned with Joves balme, Was brought to bed, under Minerva's palme.

In this Ile they retaine a custome, neither permitting men to dye, or children to be borne in it: but alwayes when men fall sicke, and women grow great bellied, they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta, and two miles distant.

Zea to which we arrived from Mecano, was so called of Zeo, the sonne of Phebo; and of some, Tetrapoli; because of the foure Citties that were there of old. Symonides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent Physition, were borne in it. The next Ile of any note we touched at, was Tino: This Iland is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometime beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was called Idrusa; of Demostenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rocke, towards the East-end or Promontore of the Ile, and ever provided with three yeares provision, and a Garison of two hundreth Souldiers: So that the Turkes by no meanes can conquer it. The Iland it selfe is twenty miles in length, and a great refuge for all Christian Shippes and Galleys that haunt in the Levante.

[The Ile of Pathmos.] From this Ile I came to Palmosa, sometime Pathmos, which is a mountainous and barren Iland: It was here that Saint John wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperour. Thence I imbarked to Nicaria, and sayled by the Ile Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman, was Achilles brought up here, because his mother being by an Oracle premonished, that he should be killed in the Trojan Warre, sent him to this Iland; where he was maiden-like brought up amongst the Kings daughters: who in that time, begot Pyrhus upon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Ulysses afterward did discover this fatall Prince to Troy. As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria, we espied two Turkish Galleots, who gave us the Chace, and pursued us, straight to a bay, betwixt two Mountaines, where we left the loaden boate, and fled to the Rockes, from whence we mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones, the persuing Turkes: But in our flying, the Maister was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captives and slaves: and also seized upon the Boate, and all their goods: The number of us that escaped were nine persons.

This Ile Nicaria, was aunciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somewhat barren: having no Sea-port at all: It was here, the Poets feigned, that Icarus the sonne of Dedalus fell, when as he tooke flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name; and [Ovid de Trist.] not following directly his father Dedalus, was here drowned.

Dum petit infirmis nimium sublimiæ pennis Icarus, Icariis, nomina fecit aquis.

Whiles Icarus weake wings, too high did flye, He fell, and baptiz'd the Icarian sea. So many moe, experience may account, That both above their minds, and meanes would mount.

Expecting certaine dayes here, in a Village called Laphantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitfull Ile of Stalimene, of old Lemnos. This Ile of Stalimene is in circuit 90. miles, where in Hephestia it's Metropolis, [Vulcans birth.] Vulcan was mightily adored; who being but a homely brat, was cast downe hither by Juno, whereby it was no marvaile if he became crooked, and went a halting: The soveraigne minerall against infections, called Teera Lemnia, or Sigillata is digged here: The former name proceedeth from the Iland: The latter is in force, because the earth being made up in little pellets, is sealed with a Turkish Signet, and so sold, and dispersed over Christendome. Having imbarked in the aforesaid Brigandine, we sayled by the Ile Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia minor, where the Tyrant Policrates lived so fortunate, as he had never any mischance all this time, till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death: Leaving us an example, that fortune is certaine in nothing but in incertainties, who like a Bee with a sharpe sting, hath alwaies some misery following a long concatenation of felicities: It is of circuit 160. and of length 40. miles: It was of old named Driusa, and Melanphilo, in which Pythagoras the Philosopher, and Lycaon the excellent Musitioner were borne.

Upon our left hand, and opposit to Samos lyeth the [Nixia.] Ile of Nixia, formerly Naxos; in circuit 68. miles: It was also called the Ile of Venus, and Dionisia, and was taken from the Venetians by Selim, the father of Soliman: East from Nixia, lieth the Ile Amurgospolo, in circuit twenty leagues, it hath three commodious ports, named St. Anna, Calores, and Cataplino: A little from hence, and in sight of Natolia, lieth the Ile Calamo, formerly Claros, in circuit thirty miles: and Eastward thence the little Ile of Lerno, five leagues in circuit, all inhabited with Greeks, and they, the silly ignorants of nature: South-east from this lieth the [The Ile of Lango.] Ile of Coos now Lango: by the Turkes called Stanccow, the Capitall Towne is Arango, where Hypocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne: In this Ile, there is a wine named by the Greekes, Hyppocon, that excelleth in sweetnesse all other wines except the Malvasie, and it aboundeth in Cypre and Turpentine trees: There is here a part of the Ile disinhabited, in regard of a contagious Lake, that infecteth the ayre, both Summer, and Winter. There is abundance of Alloes found here, so much esteemed by our Pothecaries; the rest of this Ile shall be touched in the owne place. And neere to Lango, lyeth the Ile Giara, now Stopodia, it is begirded with Rocks and desartuous, unto which the Romans were wont to send in banishment such as deserved death: In generall of these Iles Cyclads, because they are so neere one to another, and each one in sight of another, there are many Cursares and Turkish Galleots, that still afflict these Ilanders: Insomuch that the Inhabitants are constrained to keepe watch day and night, upon the tops of the most commodious Mountaines, to discover these Pirats; which they easily discerne from other vessells, [The danger of Turkish Pirats.] both because of their Sayles and Oares: And whensoever discovered, according to the number of cursary Boates, they make as many fires, which giveth warning to all the Ports to be on guard: And if the Sea voyagers in passing see no signe on these Iles, of fire or smoake, then they perfectly know, these Laborinthing Seas, are free from pestilent Raveners.

As we left the Ile Venico on our left hand, and entred in the gulfe betweene Sio, and Eolida, the firme land is called Æolida, there fell downe a deadly storme, at the Grecoe Levante, or at the North-east, which split our Mast, carrying sayles and all over-boord: Whereupon every man looked (as it were) with the stampe of death in his pale visage. The tempest continuing (our Boate not being able to keepe the Seas) we were constrained to seeke into a creeke, betwixt two Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entred, there was no likely-hood of reliefe: for we had a shelfie shoare, and giving ground to the Ankors, they came both home.

[A fearfull shipwracke.] The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but shipwrack, tooke the Helme in hand, directing his course to rush upon the face of a low Rocke, whereupon the sea most fearefully broke. As we touched the Mariners contending who should first leape out, some fell over-boord, and those that got land, were pulled backe by the reciprocating waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move; for they had formerly sworne, if I pressed to escape, before the rest were first forth, they would throw me headlong into the sea: So being two wayes in danger of death, I patiently offered up my prayers to God.

At our first encounter with the Rocks, (our fore-decks, and Boates gallery being broke, and a great Lake made) the recoiling waves brought us backe from the Shelfes a great way; which the poore Master perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons alive, cryed with a loud voyce: Be of good courage, take up oares, and row hastily; it may be, before the Barke sinke, we shall attaine to yonder Cave, which then appeared to our sight: Every man working for his owne deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were we disbarked, and I also left the last man, but the Boat immediately sunke. There was nothing saved but my Coffino, which I kept alwaies in my armes: partly, that it might have brought my dead body to some creeke, where being found, might have beene by the Greekes buryed; and partly I held it fast also, [A happy deliverance from shipwracke.] that saving my life, I might save it too; it was made of Reeds and would not easily sinke, notwithstanding of my papers and linnen I carried into it: for the which safety of my things, the Greekes were in admiration. In this Cave, which was 30. paces long, within the mountaine, we abode three daies without either meate or drinke: upon the fourth day at morne, the tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boates to relieve us, who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of foode; but I in that hunger-starving feare, fed upon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe.

True it is, a miserable thing it is for man, to grow an example to others in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men should be so: For it pleased God, having showne a sensible disposition of favour upon me, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities, taught me also by such an unexpected deliverance, both to put my confidence in his eternall goodnesse, and to know the frailty of my owne selfe, and my ambition, which drave me often to such disasters.

The dead men being found on shoare, we buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seventeene boats cast away on the Coast of this Iland, and never a man saved: in this place the Greekes set up a stone crosse in the memoriall of such a woefull mischance, and mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoycing and thanking God for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and goods) tooke journey through the Iland to Sio, for so is the City called, being thirty miles distant: In my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little hill, named Garbos, now Helias; where (as I was informed by two Greekes in my company) the Sepulcher of Homer was yet extant: for this Sio is one of the seven Iles and Townes, that contended for his birth:

Septem urbes certant de stirpe insignis Homeri.

These Cities seven (I undername) did strive, Who first brought Homer to the world alive. Smyrna, Rhodos, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Athenæ:

The which I willing to see, I entreated my associats to accompany me thither; where, when we came, we descended by 16. degrees into a darke Cell; and passing that, we entred in another foure squared roome, in which [Homers Sepulcher.] I saw an auncient Tombe, whereon were ingraven Greeke letters, which we could not understand for their antiquity; but whether it was this Tombe or not, I doe not know, but this they related, and yet very likely to have beene his Sepulcher.

[Sio.] This Ile of Sio is divided into two parts, to wit, Appanomera, signifying the higher, or upper parts of it: The other Catomerea, that is, the levell, or lower parts of the Ile: It was first called Ethalia: It aboundeth so in Oranges and Lemmons, that they fill Barrels and Pipes with the juyce thereof, and carry them to Constantinople, which the Turkes use at their meate, as we doe the Verges. And also called Pythiosa; next Cios, Acts 20. 15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, or Chione: but at this day Sio. Not long agoe it was under the Genueses, but now governed by the Turkes: It is of circuite an hundreth miles, and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trees: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yeeld in great plenty, Orenges, Lemmons, Apples, Peares, Prunes, Figges, Olives, Apricockes, Dates, Adams Apples, excellent hearbes, faire flowers, sweete Hony, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good silke is made here.

At last I arrived at the Citty of Sio, where I was lodged, and kindly used with an old man, of the Genuesen race, for the space of eight dayes: I found here three Monasteries of the order of Rome, one of the Jesuits, another of Saint Francis, and the third of the Dominican Friers, being all come from Genoa; and because the greatest part of the Citty is of that stocke, and of the Papall Sea, these Cloysters have a braver life for good cheare, fat Wines, and delicate Leachery, than any sort of Friers can elsewhere find in the world.

[The faire Dames of Sio.] The Women of the Citty Sio, are the most beautifull Dames, (or rather Angelicall creatures) of all the Greekes, upon the face of the earth, and greatly given to Venery.

If Venus foe-saw Sio's faire-fac'd Dames, His stomacke cold, would burne, in lust-spred flames.

They are for the most part exceeding proude, and sumptuous in apparell, and commonly go (even Artificers wives) in gownes of Sattin and Taffety; yea, in Cloth of Silver and Gold, and are adorned with precious Stones, and Gemmes, and Jewels about their neckes, and hands, with Rings, Chaines, & Bracelets. Their Husbands are their Pandors, and when they see any stranger arrive, they will presently demaund of him; if he would have a Mistresse: and so they make Whoores of their owne Wives, and are contented for a little gaine, to weare hornes: such are the base minds of ignominious Cuckolds. If a Straunger be desirous to stay all night with any of them, their price is a Chicken of Gold, nine Shillings English, out of which this companion receiveth his supper, and for his paines, a belly full of sinfull content. This [The Fortresse of Sio.] Citty of Sio hath a large and strong Fortresse, which was built by the Genueses, and now detained by a Garison of Turkes, containing a thousand fire-houses within it, some whereof are Greekes, some Genoueses, some Turkes, and Moores: The Citty it selfe is unwalled, yet a populous and spacious place, spred along by the Sea-side, having a goodly harbour for Galleyes and Ships, the chiefe Inhabitants there, are descended of the Genoueses, and professe the superstition of Rome: The people whereof were once Lords of the Ægean Sea, maintaining a Navy of eighty Ships: In the ende they became successively subject to the Romane and Greeke Princes; till Andronico Paleologus, gave them and their Ile to the Justinianes, a Noble Family of the Genoueses: from whom it was taken by Solyman the Magnificent on Easter day 1566. being the same yeare that our late gracious, and once Soveraigne Lord, King James of blessed memory was borne. This Cittadale or Fortresse of Sio, standeth full betweene the Sea, and the Harbour, was invaded by 800. Florentines, sent hither by the great Duke Ferdinando, brother to Queene Mother of Fraunce, and our owne Queene Maries Unkle, Anno 1600. August 7. The manner was thus, The Genouesen seede, had sold the Fort unto the Duke of Florence, whereupon he sent his Galleys and these Gallants thither: Where, when arrived in the night, they scaled the walles, slue the watches, and unhappily ram-forced all the Canon; and then entring the Fort put all the Turkes to the sword, and among them, too many Christians: The Galleys all this time, being doubtfull how it went, durst not enter the harbour, but a storme falling downe, they bore up to an Isolet for ancorage in the Æolid gulfe, and three miles distant: The next morning, the Turkish Bashaw, the Citty, and all the Ilanders were in armes: The Florentines being dismissed of their Galleys, grew discouraged, and trying the Canon, which they had spoyled at their first scallet, it would not be: Meane while, the Bashaw entred in parley with them, and promised faithfully, to send them safe to the Galleys if they would render. Upon the third day they yeeld, and as they issued forth, along the draw bridge, and the Bashaw set in a Tent to receive them as they came in, one by one, [The heads of 800. Florentines cut off.] he caused strike off all their heads: And done, there was a Pinacle reared upon the Walles of the Fort with their bare sculs which stand to this day.

But by your leave, Ferdinando in person, the yeare following, was more than revenged of such a cruell and faithlesse proceeding: He over-maisterd a Turkish towne and castle, put two thousand Turkes to the sword, sparing neither old nor young, and recoyling infinit richesse and spoyles of the towne, he brought home their heads with him to Ligorne, and set them up there for a mercilesse monument.

After some certaine dayes attendance, I imbarked in a Carmoesal, bound for Nigropont, which was forth of my way to Constantinople; but because I would gladly have seene Macedonia, and Thessaly, I followed that determination: In our way we touched at [The Ile of Mytelene.] Mytelene, an Iland of old called Isa: next Lesbos: And lastly Mytelene, of Milet the sonne of Phoebus. Pythacus, one of the seaven Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother Alceus the Lyricall Poet, Theophrastus the peripatetike Philosopher, Arion the learned Harper, and the she Poet Sapho, were borne in it.

This Ile of Lesbos or Mytelene, containeth in compasse, one hundreth forty sixe miles: the East parts are levell and fruitfull, the West and South parts mountainous and barren: The chiefe Citties are Mytelene and Methimnos: It was long under subjection of the Romane and Greeke Emperours, till Calo Joannes, Anno 1355. gave it in dowry with his sister, to Catalusio a Nobleman of Genoua; whose posterity enjoyed it till Mahomet (surnamed the Greeke) did seaze on it, 1462.

[A comparison of Iles.] These Iles Sporades, are scattered in the Ægean Sea, like as the Iles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland; but different in clymate and fertility: for these South-easterne Iles in Summer are extreame hot, producing generally (Nigroponti excepted) but a few wines, fruites, and cornes, scarce sufficient to sustaine the Ilanders. But these North-westerne Ilands in Sommer, are neither hot nor cold; having a most wholesome and temperate ayre: and do yeeld abundance of corne, even more then to suffice the Inhabitants; which is yearely transported to the firme land, and sold: They have also good store of Cattell, and good cheape, and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yeeldeth, is upon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland.

In all these seperated parts of the Earth (which of themselves of old, made up a little Kingdome) you shall alwaies [The plentifulnesse of Orkney & Zetland.] finde strong March-Ale, surpassing fine Aqua-vitæ, abundance of Geese, Hennes, Pigeons, Partridges, Moore-Fowle, Mutton, Beefe and Termigants, with an infinite number of Connies, which you may kill with a Crosse-bow, or Harquebuse, every morning forth of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime, which I have both practised my selfe, and seene practised by others; for they multiply so exceedingly, that they digge even under the foundations of dwelling houses. Such is the will of God to bestow upon severall places, particular blessings; whereby he demonstrateth to man, the plentifull store-house of his gracious providence, so many manner of wayes upon earth distributed; all glory be to his incomprehensible goodnes therefore. I have seldome seene in all my travells, more toward, and tractable people (I meane their Gentlemen) and better house-keepers, then be these Orcadians, and Zetlanders: whereof in the prime of my adolescency (by two voyages amongst these Northerne Iles) I had the full proofe and experience.

And now certainely, as it is a signe of little wisedome, and greater folly, for a man to answere suddenly to every light question; so it is as great a shame and stupiditie in man to keepe silence, when he should, and may deservingly speake; Wherefore damnifying the one, and vilifying the other, I come forth betweene both (Pugno pro Patria) to have a single bout with the ignorant malice of an imperious and abortive Geographer, brought up in the Schooles neere Thames, & Westward Ho at Oxford; who blindlings in an absurd description of the world, hath produced many errors, & manifest untrueths to the world.

And these amongst thousands moe, which I justly can censure to be false; namely, he reporteth the Orcadians to be a cruell and barbarous peeple, and that the most part of Scotland regarded neither King nor Law: tearming us also to have monstrous backes, against the execution of Justice: and because (saith he) they resemble us somewhat in visage and speech, the Scots are descended of the Saxons; where when the blacke wings of the Eagle spred in the South, they fled thither, thinking rather to enjoy penurious liberty, then rich fetters of gold: Moreover, [False aspersion upon Scotland.] that the scurvy Ile of Manne, is so abundant in Oates, Barley, and Wheate, that it supplieth the defects of Scotland; so venemous also is the Wormewood of his braine, that he impugneth Hector Boetius, to have mentioned a rabble of Scottish Kings before Kenneth, the first Monarch of all Scotland; but were he fast rabled in a rope, I thinke his presumptuous and impertinent phrase were well recompensed: Yea, further he dare to write, that if the Mountaines, and unaccessable Woods, had not beene more true to the Scots, then their owne valour, that Kingdome had long since beene subdued.