Part 6
It was of old called Curcura, Melana, and of some Corcira Nigra, but by the Modernes, Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by the iles Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Catza Augusta, appertaining to the Republike of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited and fruitfull, yeelding cornes, wines, and certaine rare kinds of excellent fruites. It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts, because of the hidden shelfs that lie off in the sea, called Augustini, where divers ships have beene cast away in fowle weather; upon the second day after our loosing from Clissa, we arrived at Ragusa.
[Ragusa.] Ragusa is a Common-weale, governed by Senators, and a Senate Counsell; it is wonderfull strong, and also well guarded, being situate by the sea side, it hath a fine Haven, and many goodly ships thereunto belonging: The greatest trafficke they have, is with the Genueses: Their territory in the firme land is not much in respect of the neighbouring Turkes, but they have certaine commodious ilands, which to them are profitable: And notwithstanding, of the great strength and riches they possesse, yet for their better safeguard and liberty, they pay a yearly tributary pension unto the great Turke, amounting to fourteene thousand Chickens of Gold: yea, and also they pay yearely a tributary pension unto the Venetians, for the Iles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe, so that both by sea and land they are made tributary citizens. The most part of the civill Magistrates, have but the halfe of their heads bare, but the vulger sort are all shaven like to the Turkes.
This Citty is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of [Slavonia.] Slavonia: Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next, Illiria, of Ilirio the sonne of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slavonia, of certaine slaves that came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, in the time of the Emperour Justinian: Croatia lying North-west from hence, is the third Province of this auntient Ilyria, and was formerly called Valeria, or Corvatia: It hath on the West Istria and Carniola: on the East and South, Dalmatia: on the North North-west a part of Carindia quasi Carinthia, and northerly Savus: So much as is called Slavonia, extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the river Drino in the East, on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice, and on the North with the Mountaines of Croatia: These Mountaines divide also Ragusa from Bosna. Bosna is bounded on the West with Croatia, and on the South with Illiricum, or Slavonia, on the East with Servia: and on the North with the River Savus.
The next two speciall Citties in that Kingdome, are Sabenica and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust nature, martiall, and marvellous valiant fellowes, and a great helpe to maintaine the right and liberty of the Venetian State, serving them both by sea and land, and specially upon their Galleyes and men of Warre. From Ragusa I imbarked in a Tartareta, loaden with corne, and bound to Corfu, being three hundred miles distant.
In all this way we found no Iland, but sayled along the maine land of the Illirian shoare: having passed the Gulfe of Cataro, and Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo: which is a strong Fortresse, situate on the top of a Rocke: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captaine of Solyman, [4000. Spaniards starvd to death.] starved to death foure thousand Spaniards. Having left Illiria Albania, and Valona behind us, we sayled by Capo di Palone, the large promontore of which, extendeth to eight miles in length, being the face of a square and maine Rocke. This high land is the furthest part of the Gulfe of Venice, and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria in Apulia, each one in sight of another, and fourteene leagues distant. Continuing our Navigation, we entred into the Sea Ionium, and sayled along the coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdome of the Epirotes, and the first beginning of Greece. Epirus is environed on the South with the sea Ionian: on the East with Macedon; On the West North west, with Albania; and on the North, with a part of Rascia, and the huge Hill Hæmus: Of which Mountaine Stratonicus was wont to say, that for eight moneths in the yeare, it was exceeding cold, and for the other foure, it was Winter: This long Mountaine devideth also Greece from Mysia, called vulgarly Bulgaria, lying on the North of Hæmus, and to the South of Danubio, even Eastward to the Euxine sea: Which River parteth also Dacia, from Mysia the superiour, the which Dacia being an auncient and famous countrey, containeth these Provinces, Transilvania, Moldavia, Vallachia, Servia, and Bosna: Here in this Kingdome of Epyre, was the noble and valiant Pirhus King, who made so great warres upon the Romanes, and at last by a woman of Argos was killed with a stone: The most valerous Captaine George Castriot surnamed [Scanderberg.] Scanderberg, the great terrour and scourge unto the Turkes was borne here; of whom it is recorded, he slew at diverse battels with his owne hands, above three thousand Turkes; obtaining also many fortunate victories against Amurath and Mahomet: After whose death and buriall, his body was digged up by the Turkes, and joyfull was that man could get the least bit of his bones to preserve, and carry about with him, thinking thereby so long as he kept it, he should alwayes be invincible, which the Turkes observe to this day, and likely to do it to their last day. And more,
Renoun'd Epire, that gave Olimpias life, Great Alexanders Mother, Phillips Wife.
In this countrey are these two Rivers, Acheron and Cocytus; who for their minerall colours, and bitter tasts, were surnamed the Rivers of Hell; and the sacred Mount Pindus, celebrate to Apollo and the Muses so well memorized by Poets, is here. It is now called Mezzona, at the foote of which springeth the River of Peneia, called Modernely Salepiros, but more properly Azababa, and keeping his extreamest course through the fields of pleasure, named by the auncients Tempi, being five miles long, and as much large, lying betweene the two Hils Osso and Olympus, and watering that beautiful plaine, the faire Peneian spring, or Azababan River, disburdeneth it selfe in the gulfe Thessalonick. This is the first kingdom of Greece, and of a great length consisting betweene the West, most part of Albania, as a perpendicular Province annexed to it, and the Arcadian Alpes, which divide Ætolia and Acarnania, the East-most regions of it, from Sparta, Thessaly, and the old Mirmidons Countrey of Macedon, amounteth to foure hundred and eight miles, lying along by the Sea side, whose breadth extendeth all the way along Northward to the hill Hæmus, above 68. miles. The chiefe Towne of Epyre, where the Kings had their residence, was called Ambracia, modernely Laerto named of a river running by it: And upon the sixt day after our departure from Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.
[The Ile Corfu.] Corfu is an Iland, no lesse beautifull, then invincible: It lieth in the Sea Ionean, the Inhabitants are Greekes, and the Governours Venetians: This Ile was much honoured by Homer, for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time. This Alcino was that Corcyrian Poet, who so benignely received Ulysses after his shipwracke, and of whom Ovid said.
Quid bifera Alcinoi referam pomaria? vosque, Qui nunquam vacui prodistis in æthere rami,
Why blaze I forth, Alcinoes fertile soyle, And trees, from whence, all times they fruit recoyle.
This Ile was given to the Venetians by the Corsicans, Anno. 1382. because they were exposed to all the injuries of the world: It lieth like to a halfe moone, or halfe a circle East and North: The Easterne Cape is called Leuchino, the other Northward, St. Katerina; the second Towne whereof is called Pagleopoli: It is of circuite one hundred and twenty, in length fifty two, and thirty seaven in breadth, and foureteene miles distant from Epyre. The City Corfu, from which the Ile hath the name, is situate at the foote of a Mountaine, whereupon are builded two strong Fortresses, and invironed with a naturall Rocke: The one is called Fortezza Nova and the other Fortezza vecchia: They are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation of the one Captaine, the other should commit any treasonable effect: And for the same purpose, the Governours of both Castles, at their election before the Senatours of Venice are sworne; neither privately, nor openly to have mutuall conference; nor to write one to another, for the space of two yeares, which is the time of their government. These Castles are inaccessable, and unconquerable, if that the Keepers be loyall, and provided with naturall and martiall furniture. They are vulgarly called, [Two strong Castles.] The Forts of Christendome, by the Greekes; but more justly, The strength of Venice: for if these Castles were taken by the Turkes, or by the Spanyard who would as gladly have them, the trade of the Venetian Merchants would be of none account; yea the very meane to overthrow Venice it selfe.
Corfu formerly Corcyra. was by some called Phæacia, so denominate from a Virgin of that name, who was here supposed to have beene deflowred by Neptune. This Ile produceth good store of Wines, Oyle, Wax, Honey, and delicate fruits.
From thence after certaine daies abode, I imbarked in a Greekish Carmesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greekes, Slavonians, Italians, Armenians, and Jewes, that were all mindefull to Zante, and I also of the like intent; being in all fourty eight persons: having roome windes, and a fresh gale, in 24. houres we discovered the Ile Cephalonia the greater; and sayled close along Cephalonia minor, or the lesser Ithaca, called now Val di Compare, being in length twenty, and in circuite fifty sixe miles, renowned for the birth of Laertes sonne, Ulysses;
[Ithaca where Ulysses was borne.] From th'Ithac rockes we fled Laertes shoare, And curs'd the land, that dire Ulysses bore. For Ilions sake, with Dardan blood attird, Whose wooden horse, the Trojan Temples fird.
On our left hand toward the maine, we saw an Iland, called Saint Maure, formerly Leucas, or Leucada; which is onely inhabited by Jewes, to whome Bajazet the second gave it in possession, after their expulsion from Spaine: The chiefe City is Saint Maure, which not long agoe was subject to Venice. This Ile Saint Maure was aunciently contiguate with the continent, but now rent asunder, and invironed with the sea: In this meane while of our navigable passage, the Captaine of the vessell espied a Saile comming from Sea, he presently being moved therewith, sent a Mariner to the toppe, who certified him she was a Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a straight course to invade our Barke. Which sudden affrighting newes overwhelmed us almost in despare. Resolution being by the amazed Maister demaunded, of every man what was best to doe, some replyed one way, and some another: Insomuch, that the most part of the passengers gave counsell, rather to render, then fight; being confident, their friends would pay their ransome, and so relieve them. But I the wandring Pilgrime, pondering in my pensive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my Country and friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Upon the which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slavery, [A counsell to fight.] I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Maister, saying: The halfe of the Carmosalo is your owne, and the most part also of the loading (all which he had told me before:) wherefore my counsell is, that you prepare your selfe to fight, and goe encourage your passengers, promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two peeces of Ordonance, your Muskets, Powder, Lead and halfe-Pikes: for who knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thraldome of these Infidels, My exhortation ended, he was greatly animated therewith, and gave me thankes; whereupon, assembling the passengers and Mariners, he gave good comfort, and large promises to them all: So that their affrighted hopes were converted to a couragious resolution; seeming rather to give the first assault, then to receive the second wrong.
To performe the plots of our defence, every man was busie in the worke, some below in the Gunner-roome, others cleansing the Muskets, some preparing the powder and balles, some their Swords, and short weapons, some dressing the halfe-pikes, & others making fast the doores above: for so the Maister resolved to make combate below, both to save us from small shot, and besides for boording us on a sudden. The dexterous courage of all men was so forward to defend their lives and liberty, that truely in mine opinion we seemed thrice as many as we were. All things below and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked in order with his Harquebuse and pike, to stand on the Centinell of his owne defence, we recommended our selves in the hands of the Almighty: and in the meane while attended their fiery salutations.
In a furious spleene, the first Hola of their courtesies, was the progresse of a martiall conflict, thundring forth a terrible noise of Galley-roaring peeces. And we in a sad reply, sent out a backe-sounding eccho of fiery flying shots: which made an æquivox to the clouds, rebounding backward in our perturbed breasts, the ambiguous sounds of feare and hope. After a long and doubtfull fight, both with great and small shot (night parting us) the Turkes retired till morning, and then were mindfull to give us the new rancounter of a second alarum. But as it pleased him, who never faileth his, to send downe an unresistable tempest; about the breake of day we escaped their furious designes; and were enforced to seeke into the bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia; both because of the violent weather, and also for that a great lake was stricken into our Ship. In this fight there were of us killed three Italians, two Greekes, and two Jewes, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right arme with [A notable deliverance.] a small shot. But what harme was done by us amongst the Infidels, we were not assured thereof, save onely this, we shot away their middle mast, and the hinder part of the puppe; for the Greekes are not expert Gunners, neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boorded. But howsoever it was, being all disbarked on shoare, we gave thanks to the Lord for our unexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians in a Greekish Church-yard, and the Jewes were interred by the sea side.
This bay of Largastolo is two miles in length, being invironed with two little Mountaines; upon the one of these two, standeth a strong Fortresse, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe. It was here that the Christian Gallies assembled, in the yeare 1571. when they came to abate the rage of the great Turks Armado; which at that time lay in Peterasso, in the firme land of Greece, and right opposite to them; and had made conquest the yeare before, of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.
The Ile of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned, because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Ulysses, who excelled all other Greekes in Eloquence and subtility of wit. Secondly, by Strabo it was named Dulichi: And thirdly, by auncient Authors [Cephalonia of old Ithaca.] Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captaine of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion. The which Anfrittion, a Theban Captaine having conquered the Iland, and slaine in battell Pterelaus King of Teleboas, for so then was the Iland called, gave it in a gift of government to Cephalo. This Cephalo was a Noble man of Athens, who being one day at hunting killed his owne wife Procris, with an arrow in steed of his prey, whereupon he flying to Amphitrion, and the other pittying his case, resigned this Islle to him, of whom it taketh the denomination: Cephalonia lyeth in the mouth of the Gulfe Lepanto, opposite to a part of Ætolia and Acarnania in the firme land: It is in circuit 156. and in length 48. miles.
The land it selfe is full of Mountaines, yet exceeding fertile, yeelding Malvasia, Muskadine, vino Leatico, Raysins, Olives, Figges, Honey, Sweet-water, Pine, Mol-berry, Date, and Cypre-trees, and all other sorts of fruites in abundance. The commodity of which redounds yearely to the Venetians, for they are Signiors thereof.
Leaving this weather-beaten Carmoesalo, layd up to a full sea, I tooke purpose to travell through the Iland; in the first dayes journey, I past by many fine Villages and pleasant fields, especially the vaile Alessandro; where the Greekes told me, their Ancestors were vanquished in battell by the Macedonian Conquerour. They also shewed me on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruines of that Temple, which had beene of old dedicate to Jupiter: and upon the second day I hired two Fisher-men in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante, being twenty five miles distant.
Here in Zante a Greekish Chyrurgion undertooke the curing of my arme, & performed condition within time.
[Zante.] The Ile of Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some Hyria. It hath a Citty of a great length, bordering along the sea side, the chiefe seate of the Ile, & named Zante, over the doore of whose Prætorium or Judgement Hall, are inscribed these verses,
Hic locus, odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat, Nequitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, probos.
This place, hates, loves, chastens, conserves, rewards, Vice, peace, fellony, lawes, vertuous regards.
And on the top of a Hill, above the towne, standeth a large, and strong Fortresse (not unlike the Castle of Milaine) wherein the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Iland. This Citty is subject yearely to fearefull Earthquakes, especially in the moneths of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, and themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all. This Ile produceth good store of Rasini di Corintho, commonly called Currants, Olives, Pomgranates, Cytrones, Orenges, Lemmons, Grenadiers, and Mellones, and is in compasse 68. miles, being distant from the fore Promontore of Morea some 16. miles.
The Ilanders are Greekes, a kind of subtile people, and great dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it were not for that great provision of corne, which are dayly transported from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the Inhabitants in short time would famish.
It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little Ile maketh yearely (besides Oyle and Wine) onely of Currants 160000. Chickins, paying yearely over and above for custome 22000. Piasters, every Chicken of Gold being nine shillings English, and every Piaster being white money sixe shillings. A rent or summe of mony which these silly Ilanders could never affoord, (they being not above 60. yeares agoe, but a base beggarly people, and an obscure place) if it were not here in England of late for some Liquorous lips, who forsooth can hardly digest Bread, Pasties, Broth; and (verbi gratia) bag-puddings without these curraunts: And as these Rascall Greekes becomming proud of late with this levish expence, contemne justly this sensuall prodigality; I have heard them often demaund the English in a filthy derision, what they did with such Leprous stuffe, and if they carried them home to feed their Swine and Hogges withall: A question indeed worthy of such a female Traffike, the inference of which I suspend: There is no other Nation save this, thus addicted to that miserable Ile.
Bidding farewell to Zante, I imbarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso in Morea, which of old was called Peloponesus: And by the way in the Gulfe Lepanto (which divideth Etolia and Morea. The chiefest Citty in Etolia is called Lepanto: from thence West-ward by the sea side, is Delphos, famous for the Oracle of Apollo) we sayled by the Iles Echinidi, but by Moderne Writers, Curzolari: where the Christians obtained the victory against the Turkes, for there did they fight, after this manner.
[Christian Generalls.] In the yeare 1571. and the sixth of October, Don John of Austria, Generall for the Spanish Gallies, Marco Antonio Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto; and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian Army, convened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all 208. Gallies, sixe Galleasses, and 25. Frigotes.
After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a valiant courage to incounter with the Turkish Armado, on the Sunday morning, the seventh of October: who in the end, through the helpe of Christ, obtained a [The battell of Lepanto.] glorious victory. In that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Gallies; and there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty shippes, Gallies, Galeotes, and other vessels: There was fifteene thousand Turkes killed and foure thousand taken prisoners, besides 4000. peeces of Ordonance, and twelve thousand Christians delivered from their slavish bondage. In all, the Christians loosed but eleven Gallies, and five thousand slaine. At their returne to Largostolo, after this victorious battell, the three Generals divided innumerable spoyles, to their well-deserving Captaines, and worthy Souldiers.
And notwithstanding Don John led that Armado, yet ambition led him, who in the midst of that famous victory, conceaved a treacherous designe, to seaze upon the castles of Corfu, under shew of the Venetian colors, which being discoverd, and he disappointed, died for displeasure in his returne to Messina in Sicilia; where there his Statue standeth to this day.
After my arrivall in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Peloponesus, I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles, of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas, and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece, with a Caravan of Greekes that was bound for Athens.
Peterasso is a large and spacious City, full of Merchandize, and greatly beautified with all kind of Commercers, Their chiefe commodities, are raw Silkes, Cloth of gold and silver, Silken-growgranes, Rich-damas, Velvets of all kinds, with Sattins and Taffeties, and especially a Girnell for grayne: The Venetians, Ragusans, and Marseillians have great handling with them: Here I remember there was an English Factor lying, whom the Subbassa or Governour of the Towne a Turke, caused privately afterward upon malice to be poysoned, even when I was wintering at Constantinople, for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover my Patrone and Protector, was so highly incensed, that he went hither himselfe to Peterasso, with two Jannizaries, and a warrant sent with him from the Emperour, who in the midst of the market-place of Peterasso, caused one of these two Janizaries, strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack; and put to death divers others also that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consul; and the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople, was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes, for prosecuting so powerfully the course of Justice, and would not shrinke for no respect, I being domestick with him the selfe same time.