Part 33

[A description of Transilvania.] This Countrey is so environed with high and unpassable mountaines about, that there is but only five entries to come into it, which make it so strong and impregnable: Within there is a rich bottome or plaine of thirty miles long, and sixe broad, being beautified with six faire Townes; the chiefest whereof, are Cromestate, Juliastrad, and Hermestat. The sides of the mountaynes within rise all upward halfe levell way even to the tops, which maketh a pleasant and prospective Countrey, and the best mixt soyle of Europe: For on the incircled plaine, there groweth nothing but Wheat, Rye, Barley, Pease, and Beanes: And on the halfe, or lower parts of the Hills about, nothing but Wines, and infinite Villages; and toward the extreame circulary heights, only Pastorage for Kine, Sheepe, Goates, and Horses, and thickets of woods: So fram'd that every one supplieth another, for they of the Valley furnish the other two parts with Victuall, and they againe them with Wines, Bestiall, Butter, and Cheese; each interchanging all necessary things with one another as they need. Here I found every where kind and familiar people; yea, and the very Vulgars speaking frequent Latine, and so commonly doe all the Hungarians. The Inhabitants here are all Protestants, but for their Vayvod or Prince Bethlem Gabor, I saw him not, for hee was lying sicke of a Feaver at Juliastrad: This Province is a free Principality, and notwithstanding adherent in some respect to the authority of the Turke. But now having left this Religious Country, and crossing the North passage of the Hils, called the Borean Berger, or North mountaine, I entred in Moldovia; where for my welcome in the midst of a border-Wood, I was beset with six murderers, Hungarians and Moldavians: where having with many prayers saved my life, they robbed mee of threescore Hungar Duccats of gold, and all my Turkish clothes, leaving me stark naked; save onely they returned to me my Patents, Papers, and Seales.

This done, and for their better security, they caryed mee a little out of the way, and bound my naked body fast about the middle to an Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, and my armes backward so likewise: swearing to me, that if I cryed for helpe, or marred them of their designes before the Sun set, they would turne backe and kill me; promising then to set me free.

[A joyfull deliverance from a desperate thraldome.] But night come, and I forgotten, was left here in a trembling feare, for Wolves and wild Boares till the morrow; where at last by Gods providence I was relieved in the morning by a company of Heards: who clothing me with an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with meat; one of them caryed me five leagues unto the Lord of the ground, the Baron of Starhulds a Moldavian Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteene dayes: And was more than repaired of all my losses, by his owne bounty, and Noble Kinsmen, his neighbouring friends, and would not suffer mee to goe any further in the Countrey, because of the Turkes jealousie over strangers, in regard it was but lately wrested from a Christian Prince, with whom I was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover, the Ambassadours house.

Well, I yeeld to the Noble mans counsell, and giving him all dutifull thankes for his kind regards, he sent a guide with mee for two dayes journey through a part of Podolia, the upmost Countrey of Polland, bordering with Tartary.

The halfe of which Countrey I found left disinhabited and desolat by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determined to have entered in Tartary, but finding no conduct nor assurance of my safety, I continued my course to Crocavia, situat on the upper Frontiers of Polland bordering with Hungary.

Tartary is thought to be sixe hundred leagues in length, confining Eastward with China, to the South with the Caspian Sea, to the North with Russia, and to the West with Podolia, and Moldavia.

[The Tartars are mighty oppressours of Podolia in Poland.] The Tartars are not expert in Warre, neither are they so valerous as the Turkes, nor so manly as the Polonians, who counter-blow them at rancounters; neverthelesse by stealth of inroades, they mightily suppresse the extreamest parts of Polland. The Turkes tearme the Cham or Emperour of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince, and the Moscovites call him Catzar Cataiski, to wit, the Cæsar of Cataia: And hee is so obeyed and reverenced among the Tartars, that they intitulate him the sonne of God, the man of God, and the soule of God: yea, and the greatest Oath that they thinke can be sworne, which they usually doe in matters of fidelitie and importance, is by his Throne Royall.

This custome of idolatrous obeysance, came first by one Rangavistah, who being chosen to be their Emperour, would try their promptnesse and goodwill of obedience towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest Princes, and head Governours under him of the people, to kill their Infants, with their owne hands.

And notwithstanding the Commandement seemed very rude and intollerable, yet they fearing the common people, who esteeme their Emperours to be the divine Kinsmen (as it were) of God; they did cut the throats every one of them, of their owne Children, before his owne eyes, and the sight of the people.

Insomuch that ever since, the life and death of the Tartars, depend upon the good-will and word of the King, which no way they dare contradict, such is the ignorant [A love not worthy thinks.] reverence they carry toward him. As for the idolatrous Rites they use at his Death, in inclosing or interring quicke in a Vault neere to his Tombe, one of every Office that he loved best, being alive, to goe serve him in Paradice; I will not meddle with it, neither with the Vulgars Superstition, who Religiously feast upon the Corpes of their aged Parents, and then doe burne their bones into ashes, giving them such a buriall, as we give our Witches; for indeede the Wormes come short among the dead Tartars of their foode.

Being arrived in Crocko or Crocavia, the capitall City of Polland (though but of small importance) I met with diverse Scotish Merchants, who were wonderfull glade of mine arrival there, especially the two brothers Dicksones, men of singular note for honesty and Wealth. It was my lucke heere, to bee acquainted with Count du Torne, the first Noble-man of Boheme, who had newly broake out [The Counte of Torne fled from Prage to Poland.] of Prison in Prage, and fled hither from Bohemia for safety. Mathias then being Emperour, against whom hee had highly offended in boasting him in his Bed-Chamber with hard and intollerable speeches: Saying to Mathias in his face, and before his Wife the Empresse: Loe there is the right hand that helped to put the Imperial Crowne on thy head, and behold now there is my foote shall strike it off againe.

This Fugitive Earle stayed me with him ten dayes to discourse, and beare him Company, for then hee had but onely one follower that came post with him: I found him Princely disposed in all things, and very familiar in his cariage: [This Sigismond King of Polland did marry two sisters of Ferdinando now Emperour.] At last his trayne and treasure comming with many other Bohemian Barons and Gentlemen his friends, I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina where the Judges of Polland sit for halfe the yeare, I arrived at Warsow, the resident place for the King Sigismond who had newly married the other Sister of his former Wife being both Sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperour: A match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia, than for a Christian Prince or shepheard.

But it is no matter Pope Paulus Quintus gave him licence, and in that liberty, a wide passage to Purgatory: who, when dead that incestuous guilt will bee royally purged; loe there his pontificall absolution.

Betweene Crocavia, and Warsow Lubilina; lying halfe way it is a hundred Pollonian miles or French leagues: Here I found abundance of gallant rich Merchants my Countrey-men, who were all very kind to me, and so were they by the way in every place where I came, the conclusion being ever sealed with deepe draughts, and God be with you.

Polland is a large and mighty Kingdome, puissant in Horse-men, and populous of strangers; being charged with a proud Nobility, a familiar and manly Gentry, and a ruvidous vulgarity: They are all for the most part, of square and thicke bodies, having Bull-necks, great thighes and legs, grim and broad faces, and commonly their shaven heads are finely covered with overthwarting strokes of crooked shables: for they, and the Armenians of Asia are of stature and thicknesse the biggest, and grossest people the world affoordeth.

The soyle is wonderfull fruitfull of Cornes, so that this Countrey is become the Girnell of Westerne Europe for all sorts of graine, besides Honey, Waxe, Flaxe, Iron, and other commodities: And for auspicuousnesse, I may rather [Polland is the Nurse of Scotlands common younglings.] tearme it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the youth and younglings of Scotland, who are yearely sent hither in great numbers, than a proper Dame for her owne birth; in cloathing, feeding, and inriching them with the fatnesse of her best things; besides thirty thousand Scots families, that live incorporate in her bowells. And certainely Polland may be tearmed in this kind, to be the mother of our Commons, and the first commencement of all our best Merchants wealth, or at the least most part of them.

And now ceasing to peramble through any moe particulars of this familiar Nation to us, I was kindly transported from Warsow upon a Waggon to Dansick, being fifty leagues distant, with a Generous young Merchant William Bailey my cliddisdale Countrey man, to whose courtesies I still rest thankfull.

Here in Dansick I fell deadly sicke for three weekes space, insomuch that my Grave and Tombe was prepared by my Countrey-men there.

Neverthelesse in end (it pleased almighty God) I recovered my health, and then imbarked for Alseynure in Denmarke, where being better convalessed, I recoursed backe in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem: where after five or sixe dayes being there, and finding my sicknesse like to returne againe, and fearing the worst, I made hast for England.

At last finding the commodity of an English shippe belonging to Ratcliffe, wee hoysed sayle, and set forward through the sound, or Belticke Sea for Alseynure agayne: Whence after three dayes abode, bidding farwell to that tributary Towne and Castle, wee Coasted the scurrile and Rockey face of Norway, at two severall parts, but not without great stormes, and contrary Windes, yea and once finally indangered with a threatening shipwracke, which with good lucke we happily escaped.

These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seaventh day the winds refavouring us, wee safely arrived at London, from whence I first began this Voyage, and there ended my second Peregination.

Magnum virtutis principium est, ut dixit paulatim exercitatus animus visibilia & transitoria primum Commutare, ut post-modum possit derelinquere. Delicatus ille est adhuc, cui patria dulcis est, fortis autem jam cui omne solum patria est: perfectus vero, cui mundus exilium est.

THE END OF THE SECOND BOOKE, OF MY SECOND TRAVAILES.

THE TENTH PART

Contayning the third Booke, of my third Travailes.

Now swolne ambition, bred from curious toile Invites my feet, to tread parch'd Æthiops Soile, To sight great Prester Jehan, and his Empire; That mighty King, their Prince, their Priest, their Sire; Their Lawes, Religion, Manners, Life and frame, And Amais, mount-rais'd, Library of Fame. Well, I am sped, bids Englands Court adiew, And by the way the Hiberne bounds I view; In whose defects, the truth like Razor sharpe Shall sadly tune, my new-string'd Irish Harpe: Then scud I France, and crossed the Pyrheneise At the Columbian heights, which threat the skies; And coasting Pampelon, I trac'd all Spaine, From Behobia, to Jubile Taure againe. Then rest'd at Malaga, where I was shent And taken for a Spie, crush'd, rackt, and rent. Where ah! (when Treason tride) by fals position; They wrest'd on me their lawlesse Inquisition: Which after Tortures, Hunger, Vermine gnashes, Condemn'd me quick, stake-bound, to burn in ashes: Gods Providence comes in, and I'me discovered By Merchants meanes, by Aston last delivered: Where noble Maunsell, Generall of that Fleete, That I was rack't for; did kind Halkins greete With strict command, to send me home for Court, To show King James, my torments, pangs, and tort: Loe I am come, to Bath I'me sent, and more Mine hoplesse life, made Worlds my sight deplore; Which here I'le sing, in Tragicke tune to all That love the Truth, and looke for Babels fall.

But now having finished the two Descriptions, of my first and second adventures; it rests now most necessary, to relate the meritorious designe, and miserable effect of my third Voyage. After I had (I say) by the great Providence of God, escaped infinite dangers, by Seas suffering thrice shipwracke, by Land, in Woods and on Mountaynes often invaded; by ravenous Beasts, crawling and venemous Wormes daily incombred; by home-bred Robbers, and remote Savages; five times stripd to the skin; excessive fastidiousnesse, unspeakable adversities, parching heates, scorching drouth, intollerable distresses of hunger, imprisonments, and cold; yet all these almost incredible sufferings past, could never abate the flame of mine austiere affection conceived; but ambitious curiosity, exposing me to a third Voyage, I may say as Æneas did in his penetentiall mood:

O socii neque enim ignari sumus ante malorum, O passi graviora, dabit Deus his quoque finem.

O Socials! we're not ignorant of losses; O suffrings sad, God too, will end these crosses.

But to observe a methodicall order, I thinke it best to show the unacquainted Reader, a reasonable satisfaction for undertaking this third, and almost invincible attempt.

First, the most speciall and urgent cause, proceeded from a necessary good (the necessity of knowledge) in the requisite perfection, of Europes full and spacious sight, the ancient Tierce, and now most Christian world; wanting formerly no part thereof unseene, as well under the Turke as Christian, except Ireland and the halfe of Spaine.

[Certaine approved reasons.] The second cause was mooved, from a more insatiate content, that when I had, and having compassed all Europe, my Resolution, was to borrow a larger dimmense of ground in Affricke then formerly I had done in twice before, even to Æthiopia, Prester Jehans Dominions. For the same effect, and a greater impression to my Resolution, I set Pen to Paper, drawing from the distaffe of the Retractable Muses, a Poeticall Pamphelet; Dedicated to themselves, to their profound Apollo, his then hopefull Heire, and diverse Noble Peeres of both Kingdomes.

And having from a Royall favour obtayned his Majesties Letters and Seales of safe Conduct, and Regall recommendation, to all Kings, Princes and Dukes, &c. I in all obsequious humility, bad farewell, to this sequestrate and most auspicuous Monarchy; and arriving at Dublin in Ireland, August the two and twenty, one thousand sixe hundred and nineteene, I saluted the Right Honorable Sir Oliver St Johns late Lord Grandison, and then Lord Deputy there, from whom for regard and singular courtesies, I was greatly obliged: So was I also to many of the English Nobility and Knight hood there: who through the whole Countrey where ever I came intertayned mee kindly, sending Guides with mee from place to place; yea, and sometimes safe-guards also; beside in their houses great good-cheere and welcome: But in speciall a dutifull remembrance I owe, to the memory of that sometimes [The matchlesse Lord Cichester for vertue, wisdome, & valour.] judicious and Religious Lord Arthur, late Lord Cichester, Baron of Belfast, &c. Who in his time for Vertue, Wisedome, and Valour, wore the Dyademe of Love, and Garland of true Noblenesse: Of whom, and for whose losse, if I should more praise, and longer lament, my Inke would turne to brinish teares, and I to helpelesse sorrow: But leaving him who lived in goodnesse here, and now in glory for ever, I celebrate these Lines, to his eternall Fame.

If ever Bounty shin'd in loyall Brest? If ever Judgment, flow'd from generous mouth? If ever Vice-Roy, rul'd this Kingdome best? If ever Valour, honour'd hopefull youth? If ever Wisdome, Astreas worth possest? If ever Vertue, was inclin'd to rueth? If ever Justice, enormities redrest? If ever Patron, paterne was of truth? Then noble Cichester, the Heavens assigne, These gifts (thy honour'd parts) were truely thine.

And now after a generall surveigh of the whole Kingdome, (the North-west part of Canoch excepted) accomplished: from the 1. of September til the last of February; I found the goodnesse of the Soyle, more then answerable to mine expectation, the defect only remayning (not speaking of our Collonies) in the people, and from them, in the bosome of two gracelesse sisters, Ignorance and Sluggishnesse.

[The foure Provinces of Ireland.] This Kingdome is divided in foure Provinces, although some allude five, that is, Easterne and Westerne Maith, but they are understood to be annexed to Leinster: Their names are these, Leinster, Munster, Ulster, and Canoch: The South-most whereof, is Munster a soile (and so is Leinster in most parts) nothing inferiour, if seasonably manured, to the best grounds in England. The Iland lyeth almost in a Rotundo, being every way spacious; the greatest River whereof is Shannon, whose course, amounteth to eight score miles, inclosing within it many little Iles.

And this I dare avow, there are moe Rivers, Lakes, Brookes, Strands, Quagmires, Bogs, and Marishes, in this Countrey, then in all Christendome besides; for Travalling there in the Winter, all my dayly solace, was sincke down comfort; whiles Boggy-plunging deepes kissing my horse belly; whiles over-mired Saddle, Body, and all; and often or ever set a swimming, in great danger, both I, and my Guides of our Lives: That for cloudy and fountayne-bred perils, I was never before reducted to such a floting Laborinth. Considering that in five moneths space, I quite spoyled sixe horses, and my selfe as tyred as the worst of them.

And now I call to memory (not without derision) though I conceale the particular place and Prelate; it was my Fortune in the County of Dunagale, to bee joviall with a Bishop at his Table, where after diverse Discourses, my ghostly Father grew offended with mee, for tearming of his Wife Mistresse: which, when understood, I both called her Madame, and Lady Bishop: Whereupon he grew more incensed; and leaving him unsatisfied; resolve me Lector? if it be the Custome heere or not? and if, amends shall repay over-sight, a ghostly Wife, shall be still Madam Lady with me; if not, mine observed manner shall be Mistresse.

But now to come to my punctuall Discourse of Ireland; true it is, to make a fit comparison, the Barbarian Moore, the Moorish Spaniard, the Turke, and the Irish-man, are [The ignorant and sluggish life of the common Irish.] the least industrious, and most sluggish livers under the Sunne, for the vulgar Irish I protest, live more miserably in their brutish fashion, then the undaunted, or untamed Arabian, the Divelish-idolatrous Turcoman, or the Moone-worshipping Caramines: showing thereby a greater necessity they have to live, then any pleasure they have, or can have in their living.

There Fabrickes are advanced three or foure yardes high, Pavillion-like incircling, erected in a singular Frame, of smoake-torne straw, greene long prick'd truff, and Raine-dropping watles. Their several Roomes of Palatiat divisions, as Chambers, Halls, Parlors, Kitchins, Barnes, and Stables, are all inclosed in one, and that one (perhaps) in the midst of a Mire; where, when in foule weather, scarcely can they finde a drye part, whereupon to Repose, their cloud-baptized heads. Their shirts be woven, of the wooll or Linnen of their owne nature, and their penurious foode semblable, to their ruvid condition.

And lastly, these onely titular Christians, are so ignorant in their superstitious profession of Popery, that neither they, nor the greatest part of their Priests know, or understand, what the mistery of the Masse is, which they dayly see, and the other celebrat, nor what the name of Jesus is, either in his divine, or humane nature: Aske him of his Religion? he replyeth, what his father, his great grand-father were, that will he be also: And hundreds of better then the common sort, have demanded mee, if Jerusalem, and Christs sepulcher were in Ireland, and if the Holy Land was contiguat with Saint Patrickes purgatory.

[A foolish and superstitious errour.] They also at the sight of each new Moone, (I speake it credibly) bequeath their Cattell to her protection, obnixiously imploring the pale Lady of the night, that shee will leave their Bestiall in as good plight, as shee found them: And if sicke, scabbed, or sore, they solicitat her mayden-fac'd Majesty to restore them to their health, in which absurdity, they far surmount the silly Sabuncks, and Garolinean Moores of Lybia: Indeed of all things (besides their ignorance) I onely lamented their heavie bondage under three kind of Masters; the Land-lord for his Rent, the Minister for his Tythes, and the Romish Priest for his Fees: And remarke when their owne Irish Rent masters have any voyage for Dublin, or peradventure superspended at home in feasting of strangers, then must these poore ones be taxed and afflicted with the supply of the devasted provision of their prodigall houses; otherwise in supporting their superfluous charges for Dublin.

O? what a slavish servitude doe these silly wretches indure, the most part of whom in all their lives, have never third part food, Natures clothing, nor a secure shelter for the Winter cold.

The miserable sight whereof, and their sad sounding groanes, have often drawne a sorrowful remorse from my humane compassion.

As for their Gentry such as are brought up here at London, learne to become a great deale more civill, than these who are brought up at home, after their owne rude and accustomable manner: And this I observed, in my traversing the whole Kingdome, I never saw one, or other, neither could move any of that selfe Nation, to pledge or present his Majesties health; but as many other healths as you list; they will both fasten, and receive from you, till they fall in the muddy hotch potch of their dead Grandfathers understanding: Indeed for entertainment of strangers they are freely disposed, and there Gentlemen of any good sort, reserve ever in their houses, Spanish Sack, and Irish Uscova, and will be as tipsy with their wives, their Priests, and their friends, as though they were naturaly infeft, in the eleven royall Tavernes of Naples.

[Two intollerable abuses in Ireland.] And now amongst many, there are two intollerable abuses of protections in that Kingdome: The one of Theeves and Woodcarnes, the other of Priests and Papists: I discourse of these corruptions now, as I found them then.

The first is prejudiciall to all Christian civillnesse tranquill government, and a great discouragment for our collonizd plantators there, belonging to both soyles of this Iland, being dayly molested, and nightly incombered with these blood-sucking Rebells.