Part 31
Many singular observations have I of his government, the which to recite would prove prolixious, though worthy of note to the intellective man; hee was afterward Viceroy of Naples, and now lately deceased in Spaine. It is dangerous to travell by the Marine of the Sea-coast Creekes in the West parts, especially in the mornings, least he finde a Moorish Frigot lodged all night, under colour of a Fisher-boat, to give him a slavish breakfast: for so they steale labouring people off the fields, carrying them away captives to Barbary; notwithstanding of the strong Watch towers, which are every one in sight of another round about the whole Iland.
Their arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day time, they are soone discovered; the Towers giving notice to the Villages, the Sea coast is quickly clad with numbers of men on foot and horse-backe: And oftentimes they advantagiously seaze on the Moores lying in obscure clifts and bayes. All the Christian Iles in the Mediteeranean Sea, and the Coast of Italy and Spaine, inclining to Barbary, are thus chargeably guarded with watch Towres.
The chiefe remarkeable thing in this Ile from all Antiquity is the burning Hill of Ætna, called now Monte Bello, or Gibello, signifying a faire Mountayne, so it is, being of height toward Catagna from the Sea side, fifteene Sicilian miles, and in Circuite sixty. The North side toward Rindatza at the Roote beeing unpassable steepe; yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had beene industriously squared, having a large prospect in the Sea; about the lower parts whereof, grow exceeding good Wines, Cornes, and Olives.
[My second view of Ætna.] And now in my second Travailes, and returne from Affricke, I not being satisfied with the former sight, the kinde Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with me on his owne charges, to view the Mountayne more strictly. Ascending on the East and passable part, with tedious toyle, and curious climbing, wee approached neare to the second fire being twelve miles high; which is the greatest of the three now burning in Ætna: whose vast mouth, or gulfe is twice twelve-score long and wide, lying in a straight valley betweene a perpendicular height and the mayne Mountayne; whose terrible flames, and cracking smoake is monstrous fearefull to behold.
Having viewed and reviewed this, as neare as my Guide durst adventure (the ground meane while whereon wee stood warming our feete, and is dangerous for holes, without a perfect Guide) wee ascended three miles higher to the maine top or Cima, from which the other two fires had their beginning. Where when come, wee found it no way answerable to the greatnesse of the middle fire; the other two drawing from it the substance, wherewith it hath beene aunciently furnished; yet betweene them two upper fires, I found aboundance of Snow (beeing in July) lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was heere in this upmost Fornace, that Empedocles the Phylosopher cast himselfe in, to bee reputed for a god.
----Deus immortalis haberi Dum cupit Empedocles, ardentem fervidus Ætnam Insiluit----
To be a god, this curious Wretch desires And casts himselfe, in the fierce Ætnean fires.
As we discended on the North-east side, we came to the third and lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the Mountaynes foote, over against Rindatza; and if it were not for a sulphureat River, which divideth the Towne and the Hill, it would bee in danger to be burned. [The lowest and third fire of Ætna.] This last and least fire, runne downe in a combustible flood, from the middle above, Anno 1614. June 25. Where the Sulphure streames, before it congealed, falling in a bituminous soyle, where Wine and Olives grew there seased, and daily augmenteth more and more; having quite spoiled the Lands of two Barons in Rindatza: But the King of Spaine, in recompence of their miserable mishapes, did gratifie them with some of his Crowne lands for their maintenance.
I speake it credibly, I have found the Relickes of these Sulphure streames, which have burst forth from the upmost tops of Ætna Westward, above twenty miles in the playne. The reason of such ardent disgorgements, is thus; that when the abundance of Sulphure, being put on edge with excessive Raine, and the bituminous substance still increasing; which by the chaps, slits, and hollow chinkes of the ground (rent partly by the Sunne, and by the forcing flames) is blowne by the Wind, as by a payre of Bellowes; the vault or vast bosome, of which ugly Cell not being able to contayne such a compositure of combustible matter, it impetuously vomiteth out, in [The combustious devalling of Ætnaes fire.] an outragious Torrent; which precipitately devalleth, so long as the heate remayneth: and growing cold, it congealeth in huge and blacke stones, resembling Minerall mettall, and full of small holes, like to the composed Cinders of a Smithes Forge, wherewith the Houses of nine Townes Circumjacent thereunto, are builded.
This is that place, which the Poets did report to bee the shop of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thunder-bolts for Jupiter: Whereof Virgill doeth make his Tract, called Ætna. Under this hill the Poets faine the Gyant Enceladus to be buried, whose hote breath fireth the Mountayne, lying on his face; and to conclude of Ætna, the grosse Papists hold it to be their Purgatory.
[Palermo.] The chiefe Cities therein are Palermo, the Seate of the Viceroy, situate in the North-west part over agaynst Sardinia: It is a spacious City, and well Watered with delicate Fountaynes, having goodly buildings, and large streetes, whereof Strado reale is principall, beeing a mile long. In which I have seene in an evening march along for Recreation above 60. Coaches; a paire of Mulets, being tyed to every Coach: The Gallies of Sicilia, which are ten, lye here.
The second is Messina, toward the East, over against Regio, in Calabria, being impregnable, and graced with a famous haven: having three invincible Castles, the chiefe whereof, is Saint Salvator by the Sea side; there be divers other Bulwarkes of the Towne wals, that serve for offensive and defensive Forts, which is the cause (in derision of the Turkes) they never shut their Gates.
[The famous City of Syracusa.] The third is Syracusa, standing on the Southeast Coast fifty miles beyond Ætna, and halfe way twixt Messina and Malta, a renowned Citty, and sometimes the Metropolitane Seate: It is famous for the Arathusean springs, and Archimedes that most ingenious Mathematician: He was the first Author of the Spheere, of which instruments he made one of that bignesse, and Arte, that one standing within, might easily perceive, the severall motions, of every Cælestiall Orbe: And when the Romanes besiedged Siracusa, he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all their Shippes lying in the Road: At last he was slayne by a common Souldier in his studdy, at the sacke of the Towne, to the great griefe of Marcellus the Roman Generall; when he was making plots, and drawing figures on the ground, how to prevent the assaults of the Romanes.
[Trapundy.] The fourth is Trapundy in the West, over agaynst Biserta in Barbary, which yeeldeth surpassing fine Salt, that is transported to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece; made onely in some certayne Artificiall Salt pooles, by the vigorous beating of the scorching Sunne, which monthly they empty and fill. The Marine here excelleth in Ruby Corall, which setteth the halfe of the Towne at work, and when refined, is dispersed over al Christendom.
This City is in great request amongst the Papists because of the miraculous Lady heere, reputed the Ilands Protector, and sole Governour of these narrow Seas, for Shippes, Gallies, and Slaves: which indeede if an image cut out in white Marble were so powerfull, it might be credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they superstitiously thereunto annexe a rable of absurd lies.
The fift is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of Ætna, that was so vexed by Dionisius the Tyrant. The sixt is Matzara South-west, over against the Barbarian Promontore of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza, Terra nova, Emma, whence Pluto is sayd to have stolne Proserpina, Malzara, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti once Agrigentum, where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who tortured Perillus in the Brazen Bull, which he made for the destruction of others.
[The Sicilian Tyrants.] The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia were in times past so famous, that they grew unto this Proverbe, Invidia Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus. The elder and younger Dionisius, were such odious tyrants, and the third Dionisius worst of all, that when the people powred out continuall execrations on the last, wishing his death; onely one old woman prayed for his life: This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his father, and he, each succeeding worser and worser, and least (said she) he dying, the divell should come in his place, (for a worser never lived) I wish him to continue still.
This Kingdome after it was rent from the Romanes, remained in subjection under the French till the yeare, 1281. in which Peter of Arragon, contrived his purpose so close, that at the sound of a Bell, to the evening vespers, all the French men in Sicilia were cruelly massacred; since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of Arragon, and now of Spaine, which exploit masketh under the name of Vesperi Siculi. For nobility this Iland may compare with Naples, their styles (like unto Italy) are great, but their revenewes wondrous small.
The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience of both, [A true comparison betweene the French and the Spaniards.] that the French are wiser than they seeme, and the Spaniards seeme wiser then they are: And even as the Spaniard is extremely proud in the lowest ebbe of Fortune: So is the French man exceeding impatient, cowardly desperate, and quite discouraged in the pinch of sterne calamity. The Spaniard and the French man have an absolute opposition, and conditionall disagreement in all fashions; and in their riding both different, and defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey mounted on a Camell, with his knees and heeles alike aside, sitting on the sadle, like to a halfe ballast ship, tottering on top-tempestuous waves: And the French man, hangeth in the stirrop, at the full reach of his great toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse with neck-stropiat spurres, and beating the wind with his long waving limbes, even as the Turkes usually do, when they are tossed at their Byrham, hanging betweene two high trees, reciprocally waving in the ayre, from the force of two long bending ropes.
[The Sicilian customes.] The women ride here stridling in the sadle, and if double, the man sitteth behind the woman: The women also after the death of their friends keepe a ceremonious mourning twice a day, for a moneths space, with such yelping, howling, shouting, and clapping of hands, as if all Sicilia were surprised by the Moores: Yet neither shedding teares, nor sorrowfull in heart, for they will both hollow and laugh at one time: The same custome for the dead, the Turkes observe, and all the Orientall people of Asia.
This Iland finally is famous, for the worthy Schollers shee once produced: Archimedes the great Mathematician; Empidocles, the first inventer of Rhetoricke; Euclide the textuary Geomettrician; Diodorus Siculus that renowned Historian, and Æshilus the first Tragedian of fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through age, by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white rocke, let a shell-fish fall on it, of that bignesse, that it beat out his braines.
But to proceed in my itinerary relation, having twice imbarked at Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Affricke, I have choosed the last time (double experience, deeper knowledge) for the discourse of my departure thence: After a generall surveigh of this Iland and Monte Bello [Mine arrivall at Messina.] arriving at Messina, Anno 1616. August 20. I encountered with a Worshipfull English Gentleman Mr. Stydolffe Esquier of his Majesties body, accompanied with my Countrey man Mr. Wood now servant to James Earle of Carelill, who instantly were both come from Malta, the generous affabilitie of which former Gentleman to mee in no small measure was extended; meeting also afterward at Naples, as in the owne place shall be succinctly touched.
Here I found some 60. Christian Gallies, assembled to the Faire of Messina, which holdeth every yeare the 17. of August: Wherein all sorts of Merchandize are to be sold, especially raw Silke in abundance: 30 of which Gallies went to scoure the coasts of Greece. Messina is foure miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles from the opposit Maine. This Rhegium was that Towne where Saint Paul arrived after his ship-wracke at Malta in his voyage to Rome: It was miserably sacked by the Turkish Gallies of Constantinople, Anno, 1609. but now by the Spaniards it is repaired with stronger walles, and new fortifications, sufficiently able to gaine-stand any such like accidentall invasions.
In this time of mine abode here, there happily arrived from Italy my singular good friend Mr. Mathew Dowglas his Majesties Chirurgion extraordinary, being bound also for the Levant in the same voyage of the Christian incursions against the Infidels, whose presence to me after so long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding comfortable, and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which I made on Ætna) as the peculiar badge of my innated love.
High stands thy top, but higher lookes mine eye, High soares thy smoake, but higher my desire, High are thy rounds, steepe, circled, as I see, But higher farre this breast, whilst I aspire: High mounts the fury of thy burning fire, But higher far mine aimes, transcend above: High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcans ire, But higher flies my spirit, with wings of love, High presse thy flames, the Christall aire to move, But higher moves the scope of my engine, High lieth the snow, on thy proud tops I prove, But higher up ascends, my brave designe. Thy height cannot surpasse this cloudy frame But my poore soule, the highest Heavens doth claime, Meane while with paine, I climb to view thy tops, Thy height makes fall from me ten thousand drops.
Here in Messina I found the (sometimes) great English [The death of Sir Frances Verney.] Gallant Sr. Frances Verny lying sick in a Hospitall, whom sixe weekes before I had met in Palermo: Who after many misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, abandoning his Countrey, and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was taken at Sea by the Sicilian Gallies: In one of which he was two yeares a slave, whence hee was redeemed by an English Jesuite, upon a promise of his Conversion to the Christian faith: When set at liberty, hee turned common Souldier, and here in the extreamest calamity of extreame miseries, contracted Death: Whose dead Corpes I charitably interred in the best manner, time could affoord me strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable mutability of Fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so meane a Buriall; and truly so may I say, Sic transit gloria mundi.
After sixteene dayes attendance for passage, their fortunately accoasted heere twelve Napolitan Gallies come from Apulia, and bound for Naples: In one of which, by favour of Marquesse Dell Sancta Cruce the Generall, I imbarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas, which divide Italy and Sicilia: The strait whereof, is 24. miles in length, in breadth 6. 4. and 2. miles. This Sea, is called the faro of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the West end whereof, wee met with two contrary chopping tides, which somewhat rusling like unto broken Seas, did choake the Gallies with a strugling force:
Incidunt in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Charibdim.
Who strive to shunne, the hard Calabrian coast, On sandy Scilla, wrestling they are lost.
[A comparison of irrepugnable streames.] Yet of no such eminent perill, or repugnable Currents, as be in the firths of Stronza and Westra: especially Pentland firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the mayne Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth from eyther sides, may quickly loose sight both of Life and Land for ever. As we entred in the Gulfe of Saint Eufemia, we fetched up the little Ile of Strombolo: This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse, growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a Chimney arriseth a continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting foorth great stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate, dare Coast or boord it.
South from hence, and in sight thereof, on the North Coast of Sicily lye the two Ilands, Vulcan Major, and Minor; whereof the lesser perpetually burneth, and the greater is long since consumed. On the fourth day we touched at Ischa, the greatest Ile belonging to Naples, and 20. miles in Circuite, being strongly begirded with Rockey heights. The chiefe Towne is Ischa, whether Ferdinando of Naples fled, being thrust out of his Kingdome by Charles the eight.
[A boyling Fountaine in the Ile of Ischa.] There is a Fountayne here of that incredible heate, that in short time will boyle any fish or flesh put in it, and the taste agreeable to digestion. Departing from thence, and coasting the mayne shoare, we had a Moorish Frigot in Chase, where seazing on her, we found 16. Moores therein, and sixe Christians, three men, two Women, and a Boy, whom they had taken up, in going betweene two Townes by the Sea side. The Peasants were set at liberty, and the Moores immediately preferred to chaynes of Iron, bloody lashes, tugging of Gally oares, and perpetuall slavery.
Neere the Marine, and in sight of Naples, wee boorded close by the foote of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past did burne, but now extinguished: It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his time in discovering the secrets of Nature; pressing neere to behold it, was stifled with the flame, so that he dyed in the same place, which is most excellently described in the Booke of his Epistles, by his Nephew the younger.
Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne to Christendome, and the day following, I went to review the auncient Monuments of Putzola or Puteoli: Which when I had dilligently remarked in my returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesayd English Gentleman and M. Woode, who needes would have me turne backe to accompany them hither. When come, we tooke a Guide, and so proceeded in our sights; the first [The antiquities of Putzolo.] thing of any note wee saw, was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded betweene Putzolo and Baia, over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad: Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments whereof remayne unruined to this day: The next, was the new made Mountayne of Sand, which hath dryed up Lago Lucrino, being by an Earth-quake transported hither; at the foote of this fabolous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ciceroes Village.
Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted) are as yet undemolished.
This Lake Averno is round, and hemb'd in about with comely heights, being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe, and in circuite a short mile. The West end whereof, is invironed with the Mountayne of Cuma, whether Æneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Carthage, and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.
Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we [Sybilaes Cave.] came to Sybillaes Cave, the entery being darke, because of the obscure passage, hewen out and cut through the mayne Rocke, our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo marched before us. The first passage was exceeding high Cime, and the further end stopped with mouldring earth. Inclining to our right hand, we passed through a very straite and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber, which is a delicate Roome, and Artificially decored with Mosaical Worke: Here it is sayd, the Divell frequented her Company, and where shee wrot her Prophecies. From thence hee conducted us through a most intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to walke sidling in) to a large and vast Rome: The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bottome.
This great Cell or Hall, is a yard deepe of blackish Water, [The old dining roome of Sybilla.] and was the dining Roome of Sybilla: In which hearing toward the further end, a scriking noyse, as if it had beene the chirking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded? Who answered, they were Dragons and flying Serpents, praying us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily affrayde: Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter; and M. Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I, leaving the other two behind us, adventured the tryall: Having more then halfe way entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water, and I carrying the Flambo, for lacke of ayre, being so far under ground, the light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide, but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words, neyther would he, nor durst he hazard to support us.
Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult way backe, and tendering (as by duty) the worthy Gentleman, I stepped downe to my middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keepe him on the dry stones. Where indeed I must confesse, I grew affrighted for my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for indeed the distracting noyse drew aye nearer and nearer us. At last, falling neare the voyce of our guide, who never left shouting, wee returned the same way wee came in, and so through the other passages, till wee were in open fields.
Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condignely requited, being all bemired and wet to the middle, yet forthwith the vigorous Sunne disburdned me quickly thereof: From thence (to be briefe) we came to [The ancient varieties of the antiquities of Putzolo.] the Bagni, the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the Fort of Baia, and the Laborinth of Ciento Camarello, into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus, (the coverture of which, is supported by 48. naturall pillars of stony earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian fields: Thence we returned by the Sepulcher of Agricula, the mother of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury: Crossing over in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monument we saw, was the auncient Temple of Jupiter, who serveth now for their Domo, or Parochiall Church: The latter Idolatry of which, is nothing inferiour to the former.