Part 30
Ah! sightlesse desarts! fil'd with barren Sands! And parched plaines; where huge and hilly lands Have stone-fac'd scurrile bounds: O monstrous feare! What destiny, drove my cross'd Fortune here? By day I'me scoarch'd with heate, by night the grounds Are cled with beasts; whose rage sends horrid sounds Of dreadfull death: whence we to shunne their ire, Are forc'd to fright them, with bright Tara fire: For if it were not, that they scarr'd at Light, No man could walke, or rest, safe in the night. Then next and nigh, the crawling Serpents lurke Still under foote, some stung-swolne smart to worke; Which moove the Sands like Seas, in seeking shade, Where 'mongst their linking roles, I'me forc'd to wade: Whose neckes like legs are round, their bodies strong, With blacke-spred backes, their length full two yards long: Yet whilst I cut, and crush their warbling wombe, I point their death, their skin, I make their tombe. But worst I'me hungerbit, and starving slaine With pinching want, a sore-sunke gnawing paine: O helplesse torture! second'd with great drouth And fiery thirst, that scabbe my lips and mouth: Where for fine lyquor, as my heart would wish, Stress'd wandring I, am forc'd to drinke my pisse: So turnes my food to smoake, the smoake to ashes Which twice a night, we three do spend in flashes: Last casts my face the skin, my skin the colour, And spewing forth fled joyes, I drinke in dolour. Thus with the Torrid Zone, am I opprest, And lock'd twixt Tropickes two, which me invest. Where for reliefe, I pierc'd the Heavens with cryes, And cut the Clouds, to grieve the azure skies With sighs and grones; yet carefull to regard My curious drifts, had got their just reward.
But to shorten my Discourse, of barren Wildernesses, supposed to be a part of the Lybian Desarts, my Dragoman upon the fourth day of our seaven being there, falling in despaire, and wondring to see me indure such heate, such hunger, and such toyle, did threaten mee with death, to make me seeke backe for our nearest refuge: Whereupon holding our course North-east, my compasse-Dyall being our guide, we rancountred earely on the eight day, with nine hundred Savages, naked Lybian Sabunks: five hundred whereof, were women armed with Bowes and Arrowes; who with their complices, the former night had put to the sword, three hundred Berdoanes, their neighbour tribe: carrying away above sixe thousand Sheepe and Goats besides other bestiall: from whom after our sight of their Emeere or Prince, we had first liberty of life, and then reliefe of food; for he came up in the Reare, with a hundred Horse-men charged with halfe Pikes, headed at [The prince of the Sabuncks apparrell.] both ends with sharpe Steele: The person of their Prince was onely clothed from his breasts downe to his middle thigh with a Crimson vayle of Silke, hanging on his naked shoulders with coloured Ribans, and on his head a party coloured Shash set like a Garland: Both his knees were bare, so were his ancles, the calves of his legges being girded with Crimson Silke, and on his feet yellow shooes; his beard was like his face, burnt with the Sun, and his age like to my owne, of 33. yeares, his Religion is damnable, so is his life, for hee and all the foure tribes of Lybia worship onely for their God, Garlick, having Altars, Priests, and superstitious rites annexed to it: Thinking Garlicke, being strong of it selfe, and the most part of their food, to have a soveraigne vertue in a herball Deity. All his Courtiers were starke naked saving his Page, who was even covered like to the King his Master.
And now having dismissed his Army for the way, and falling in a houres parley with us at his departure, he propyned me with his Bowe, & a Quiver of Arrowes, which afterward, I presented to his Majesty, then Prince.
There is a merry secret heere concerning the women, which often I recited to King James of Blessed memory, showing him also three Certificates of this my Desartuous wandring: one of which was confirmed by English Waird at Tunneis upon the Dragomans Report; though now they with all my other Patents are lost, in the Inquisition of Malaga. This former savage Prince sent a Guide with us for foure dayes journey, the condition of his mans Wages being made by himselfe, and franckly advised us that Tunneis was our best and nearest Recourse. Which being forcibly considered, I was constrayned to renew my bargaine agayne with the Dragoman, at the rate of forty five Sultans of gold, to bring me safely hither.
This Sabunck Guide, to whom I gave five Sultans, thirty five shillings, brought us through the most Habitable vallies, and best cled passages of the Countrey with Tents: where every day once we found Water, Bread, Garlicke and Onions, and sometimes Hennes at twenty Aspers the peece, two shillings; which we would Rost, or scorch dry (if trueth may have credite) at the very face of the Sunne, and so eate them. Upon the fift day, our Guide leaving us in the after-noone, well setled among foure hundred Tents of Numidian Moores, or bastard Arabians, pitched in a pleasant Valley, betweene two sources of Water, wee stayed still there Reposing our selves, and Refreshing our bodies with Victuals, some nine dayes.
[Moorish Smiths forging horse-shooes out of cold Iron without fire, but the heat of the Sun.] Heere among these Tents, I saw Smiths Worke out of cold Iron, Horse-shooes, and Nayles, which is onely molified by the vigorous heate and Raies of the Sunne, and the hard hammering of hands upon the Anvile: So have I seene it also in Asia. I could bee more particular here, but Time, Paper, Printing, and charges will not suffer me. And now from hence, renewing our Guides from place to place, and discending from Savage Moores to Civill Moores, we arrived (though with great difficulty and danger) safely at Tunneis.
[The Beglerbegship of Barbary.] And to conclude this Eight Part, there are three Beglerbergships in the higher and lower Barbary: The first is at Trypolis, which was taken in by Sinan Bassa from the Knights of Malta 1551. and commaundeth under him eight thousand Tymariots, besides sixe thousand Jannizaries. The second is at Tunneis, the Beglerbeg whereof, being of great Authority, commaundeth under him twelve Sanzackes, and thirty five thousand Tymariots. The third is, that of Algier, whose Bassa hath under him fourteene Sanzacks, and the commaundment of forty thousand Tymariots. These are all the Beglerbegs, the Great Turke retayneth in Affricke, except the great Vizier-Bassa of Ægipt: although in Asia major and Minor, he commandeth in severall Provinces and Kingdomes, thirty Bassaes or Beglerbegs.
THE NINTH PART.
Tunneis beene sightlesse left, I sought the Ile Of little Malta: famous for the stile Of honour'd Knight-hood, drawne from great Saint John, Whose Order and the Manner, I'le expone: Whence Coasting Sicilie, a tripled view I tooke of Ætna: Time discussing you A miracle of Mettall; for its Kind Is nurs'd by Raine, and suffled up with wind: And thwarting Italy, the Venice Gulfe, Carindia, Carneola, the stiffe stream'd Dolf; Head-strong Danubio, Vienne, Austriaes Queene, And Kinde Moravia, set before mine eyne. To Hungary I came, and Vallechie, The Transilvanian Soile, and Moldavie. Whence sighting Polle, and many Scotsmans face, I Kiss'd Sigismonds hands, at Warsow place: Whence Swethland I, and Denmarke last bewray, Noruegia too, in my sought London way; Where bin arriv'd, safe on the brow of Thames, To Court I came, and homag'd Royall James.
And now my Wish, and my arrivall, being both desirous for a while setled in Tunneis, I dispatched my Dragoman, and the other Barbarian hireling, with a greater consideration, then my two former conditions allowed me: Yet being urged to it by Captaine Wairds decernitour, I freely performed his Direction. My Conduct gone, and I staying heere, Captayne Waird sent twice one of his servants with me to see two sundry Ovens drawne, beeing [The hatching of Chicken without their mothers.] full of young Chickens, which are not hatched by their mothers, but in the Fornace, being thus. The Oven is first spred over with warme Camels dung, and upon it the Egges, closing the Oven.
Then behind the Oven, there is a daily conveyance of heate, venting through a passage beneath the dung, just answerable to the naturall warmnesse of the Hens belly; upon which moderation, within twenty dayes they come to naturall perfection. The Oven producing at one time, three or foure hundred living Chickens, and where defection is, every sharer beareth a part of the losse; for the Hatcher or Curator, is onely Recompensed according to the living numbers be delivered. Surely this is an usuall thing, almost through all Affricke, which maketh that the Hennes with them are so innumerable every where.
And now it was my good fortune, after five Weekes attendance for Transportation, being about the 14. of February 1616. to meete here with a Holland ship called the Marmaide of Amsterdam, beeing come from Tituana, and bound for Venice and Malta, touched here by the [Captaine Dansers imployment.] way. In this time of their staying, came one Captayne Danser a Fleming, who had beene a great Pyrate and Commaunder at Seas, and the onely inveterate enemy of the Moores; beeing imployed by the French King in Ambassage, to relieve two and twenty French Barkes that were there Captivated, done by the policy of the Bashaw, to draw Danser hither; notwithstanding that hee was then Retired, and marryed in Marseilles.
Well, he is come, and Anchored in the Roade, accompanied with two French Gentlemen: Two of which came a shoare, and saluted the Bashaw in Dansers behalfe: they are made welcome, and the next day the Bashaw went franckly a boord of Danser, seconded with twelve followers: Danser tooke the presence of the Bashaw for a great favour, and mainely feasted him with good cheare, great quaffing, sounding Trumpets, and Roaring shots, and none more familiar then the dissembling Bashaw, and over-joyed Danser, that had relieved the Barkes, for they were all sent to him that morning, not wanting any thing.
After deepe cups, the Bassaw invites him to come a shoare, the day following, and to dine with him in the Fortresse: To the which unhappy Danser graunted, and the time come, he landed with twelve Gentlemen, and nearing the Castle, was met with two Turkes to receive him: where having past the draw-bridge, & the gate shut behind him, his company was denied entrance: where forthwith Danser being brought before the Bassaw, was strictly accused of many ships, spoyles, and great riches he had taken from the Moores, and the mercilesse murther of their lives, for he never spared any: [The untimely death of Captayne Danser a Fleming born.] Whereupon he was straight beheaded, and his body throwne over the walles in a ditch; which done, off went the whole Ordonance of the Fort, to have sunke Dansers two ships; but they cutting their cables, with much adoe escaped, but for the other Gentlemen a shoare, the Bassaw sent them very courteously and safely aboord of the redeemed Barks, whence they hoised Sayles for Marseilles.
Loe there was a Turkish policy more sublime and crafty, than the best Europian alive could have performed. A little while thereafter, the afore-said Hollander being ready to goe for Sea, I bad goodnight to Generous Waird, and his froward Runagates, where being imbarked, with prosperous windes upon the third day, wee landed at Malta, and there leaving my kind Flemings and their negotiation, I courted the shoare, saluting againe my former hoste.
The fift day of my staying here, I saw a Spanish Souldier and a Maltezen boy burnt in ashes, for the publick profession of Sodomy, and long or night, there were above a hundred Bardassoes, whoorish boyes that fled away to Sicilie in a Galleyot, for feare of fire but never one Bugeron stirred, being few or none there free of it: The Knights that remaine here, as they are of divers howsoever, they of the better sort, are resolute in their atchievements.
The Maltezes aunciently did adore the Goddesse Juno, whose Temple was superbiously adorned with rich decorements, and to which for homage and devotion, came all the Inhabitants of the circumjacent Iles; bringing rich presents and gifts; and they were also honored with the Temple of Hercules, the ruines of which appeare to this day.
Now as for their order of Knighthood, the oath which is made at their receiving, in the order of St. John, or of the [The formall oath of the Knights of Malta.] Religion of the holy Hospitall of Jerusalem, is thus: I vow, and promise to God, to the most blessed Virgin Mary, the Mother of God, and to our glorious Patrone St. John the Baptist, that by the grace and helpe of Heaven, I shall ever be obedient to the superiour, that God and this Religion have appointed; and from henceforth that I shal live chast, forsaking Marriage, and all other lusts, and to be without the proper possession of any thing that may be mine.
After this, the Chappell clarke, a Priest of the order, receiving him with divers ceremonies, taketh a blacke Cloak in his hand, and shewing him the white crosse that is fixed thereon; demandeth if he doth not beleeve that to be the signe of the Crosse, whereon Jesus Christ was crucified for our sinnes, he confesseth it, kissing the Crosse: After which, his receiver putteth the crosse of the Cloake upon the heart and left side of the new made Knight, saying: Receive this signe in the name of the trinity, the blessed Mother of God, the Virgin Mary, and of St. John the Baptist, for the augmentation of the Catholick faith, the defence of the Christian name and service of the poore: Also we put this crosse on thy left side, to the end, that thou mayst love it with all thy heart, and with thy right hand for to defend it: And in fighting against the enemies of Jesus Christ, thou shalst happen to flee, and leave this holy Signe behind thee, thou shalst of good right be depraved of this holy religious order, and of our company: This done, he knitteth the Cordon of the Cloake about him saying; Receive the yoake of our Lord that is sweet, and light, and thou shalst find rest for thy soule: This spoke, he kisseth the Cordon, and so doe all the circumstanding Knights, and there are made unto him divers Orations and precepts, contained in the Booke of their Ordinances: They have a Priest-hood too of this same order, being Masse-Priests that weare this badge of the white Crosse.
Now bidding farewell to Malta, and to mine aforesayd Countrey Gentleman William Dowglas, I landed the next morning at Sicly in Sicilia, being twenty leagues distant. And now this being the third time of my traversing this Kingdome, (triple experience, deeper knowledge) I begin to give you a perfit description thereof.
[The first denominations of Sicilia.] Sicilia was first named Trinacria (whose figure is Triquetria) for that being triangular, it butteth into the Sea with three Promontories: Capo di coro, South, Cap di passaro West: and Cap di saro East: The length of each triangle from point to point, being 200. miles.
Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in æquor, Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci.
An Ile with corners three, out-braves the Mayne From whence the name Trinacry it doth gaine.
It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who possessed it, and hath beene famous in all former ages:
By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon of Iles: By Titus Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was also aunciently called the Grange of the Romanes, and is never a whit decayed to this day.
The length of the Iland lyeth East and West, in circuit sixe hundred, large fifty, and in length two hundred fourty Italian miles: [The fertility of Sicilia.] The soyle is incredible fruitfull, excelling in all sorts of graine, as cornes, Wheat, Wine, Sugar, Ryce, Oyle, Salt, Allom, all kinds of fruit, wholesome Hearbs, exceeding good Silke, exquisite mines of mettall, and the best Corall in the world is found here, beside Trapundy; growing under the water greene and tender, but when arising above, it becommeth red and hard: The like whereof is sayd to be found in the red-Sea, and gulfe of Persia.
The most of the Townes and Villages within land, are [Townes set on heights reserve good ayre.] builded on the highest hills and greatest heights in the Countrie; the reason is two-fold; first it serveth them for strength, and a great defence in time of cursarary invasions, of which divers bee so strait in ascending, that one man may easily resist and beat downe five hundred. The second is, because their dwellings being farre above the parching Plaines, these situations are good preservatives for their health, whereon they have a sweet and cooling ayre, which in such a hot climat, is the soveraigne salve to prevent sicknesse.
Their Villages be farre distant, some sixe, ten, fifteene, twenty miles one from another; in all which grounds there is no sequestrate house, unlesse (being a high way) it be a Fundaco or Inne. About the sides of the hills, whereon their Townes stand, grow all their Wines, and on the Plaines nothing but red Wheat, which for goodnesse is unparalelled, and the best bread and abundance of it in the world is here. Sicilia was formerly devided in [The auncient divisions of Sicilia.] three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, containing Ætna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro, of old Pelora: The other the valley of Neitia, containing Syracusa, Terra nova, and the angle of Cap di Cora of old, of Lilibea; and the third was the valley of Matzzara contayning Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the angle of Cap di passero old Pachinum: Many thinke that Sicilia was rent from Italy by the violence of waters, at the generall Deluge, some by infinit earthquakes, and some simply conjecture the cause to have proceeded from combustious Ætna, which is meere ridiculous.
There are divers grounds and valleyes in this Ile, that abound so in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoyle a hundred measures for one, and commonly are called the fields of a hundred measures.
[Sicilians are brave Orators.] The Sycilians for the most part are bred Orators, which made the Apulians tearme them, men of three tongues: Besides they are full of witty sentences, and pleasant in their rancounters, yet among themselves, they are full of envy (meaning their former kindnesses was unto strangers) suspicious and dangerous in conversation, being lightly given to anger and offences, and ready to take revenge of any injury comitted: But indeed I must confesse, more generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in the night; for they appeale other to single combat, and that manfully without fraudulent practices.
They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full of quicknesse and rare inventions in all kind of Sciences, great intelligencers, and lovers of histories: As I found in divers of them, who knew the passages formerly of my Countrey so exquisitly that I was astonished at their relations, so agreeable with the trueth and times past. The Parliament of Sicily hath a wonderfull great authority; insomuch that the Viceroy can not have the free gift (as they call it) which is every third yeare, nor no extraordinary thing, nor the renewing of any matter concerning the Common-wealth, without the generall consent of the whole Kingdome: [The great Counsell of Sicilia.] The generall counsell whereof is composed of three branches, called by them, the armes of the Kingdome: viz. first the Prelats, and inferiour Clergy men, named the arme Ecclesiastick: secondly of Barons called the arme Military: and the third, the Commissioners of Cities and Townes, intitulated the arme Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this Kingdome amounteth to a million and a halfe of Duccats yearely: which being disbursed ever for intertaining of Captaines, Garrisons and of Gallies, and cursary ships, the Badgelloes and servants for the fields, the maintaining of Towers, and watches about the coasts, the reparations of Colledges, high-wayes, Lords pensions, and other defrayings, there rests little, or nothing at all to the King.
I remember in my twice being in this Kingdome, (especially the second time, wherein I compassed the whole Iland, and thrice traversed the middle parts thereof from Sea to Sea) I never saw any of that selfe Nation, to begge bread, or seeke almes; so great is the beatitude of their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught mee) that the porest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as the best Prince in Christendome doth. The people are very humane, ingenious, eloquent and pleasant, their language in many words is nearer the Latine, then the Italian, which they promiscuously pronounce: somewhat talkative they are, and effeminate, but generally wonderfull kind to strangers. In the moneths of July and August, all the Marine Townes every yeare, are strictly and strongly guarded with them of the inland Villages and Bourges, both on foot and horse-backe: who are compelled to lie there at their owne charges, so long as this season lasteth; in which they feare the incursions of the Turkes; but the rest of the yeare, these Sea-coast Townes are left to the vigilant custody of the Indwellers.
This Countrey was ever sore oppressed with Rebells and Bandits, [The Duke of Sona Viceroy of Sicilia.] untill such time that the military Duke of Sona, came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the first yeare he brought in five hundred; some whereof were hanged, some pardoned, and some committed to the Gallies: So that within two yeares of his foure yeares government, there was not a Bandit left at randon in all Sicilia; the like before was never seene in this Region, nor one in whom Astreas worth was more honoured, in fortitude of mind, and execution of true Justice than this Duke, before whose face, the silly ones did shine, and the proud stiffe-necked oppressours did tremble.
And in a word, he was no suppressour of the subjects (as many now be) to satisfie either licentious humors, or to inrich light-headed flatterers, but serving Justice, he made Justice serve him: for the equitie of Justice of itselfe, can offend none, neither of any will it be offended; unlesse the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary Judge, suffer sound judgement to perish for temporary respects; which this noble Governour could never doe, neither suffer any inferiour Magistrate to doe the like under him: As it well appeared by his just proceedings against the Jesuites of Palermo, and his authority upon them imposed in spight of their ambition. The circumstances whereof were very plausible, if time did not slaughter my goodwill; and yet my patience could performe my paines with pleasure.
And likewise against a Seminary Gallant, a Parochial [An equitable Justice for injustice sake.] Priest of that same City, who had killed a Knights servant in a Brothell-house, the brother of a Shoomaker, which fellow, the Viceroy caused to Pistoll the Priest in spight of the Cardinall, and thereupon absolved him for the dead.
The Cardinall having onely for the Priests fact, discharged him to say Masse for a yeare without satisfaction for the mans life: so the Duke inhibited the Shoomaker to make shooes for a yeare, and neverthelesse allowed him two shillings a day to mainetayne him for that time.