Part 3

But by your leave, being once enterd the City, I found abundance of all things necessary for life, at so easie and gentle a rate, that never towne in Europe hitherto could shew me the like. The common wine that is drunke in Rome, is Vin Romanisco, the better sort Albano, Muscatello, Sheranino, but as for Lachrime Christi, the teares of Christ, I drew so hard at that same weeping wine, till I found my purse begun to weepe also; and if time had not prevented the sweetnes of such teares, I had beene left for all the last miserable mourner. As for the place [The Pilgrimes dinner at the Popes table.] where the Pilgrimes find one dinner, called the Popes table, it is thus: there is a certaine low roome at St. Peters Pallace, and without the gate, where every day at our nine of the clocke, there meete 21. pilgrimes; 14. from the Trinity, one having a bullet for all, and seven from St Peters Penitentialls: where being received, the seven Jesuit Pilgrims get the upper place, and sit alone, yet all of them alike served, each of them having foure dishes of meat, besides bread & abundance of wine. The dinner done, their fragments are wrapt up in cleane paper, which they carry with them, and so departing, they, or like company come no more there. They are dayly served with a very venerable Prelat, and a few other serviceable Preists, but for the Popes presence with them, there is no such matter. That liberty being spoyld by a drunken Dutch-man about 60. yeeres agoe, who in presence of the Pope gave up againe his good cheare and strong wines, with a freer good will then perhaps they were allowed him, whereat the Pope grewe angry, notwithstanding the drunken fellowe cryed through his belching throate, Thankes Holy Father, Deere Holy Father, God blesse your Holinesse.

Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also recite some decayed monuments thereof, which I have seene: The speciall object of Antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium sanctorum, builded in a rotundo, and open at the top with a large round, like to the quire of the holy grave. And a pretty way from this, are the remainants of that Auncient Amphitheatre beautified with great Columnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height, and a mile in compasse; the reason why it was first devised, the ghosts of the slaughtered [Romes Antiquities.] Sabines may testifie. To be briefe, I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the Pallace of cruell Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander, and his horse Bucephalus. The greene hill like unto mount Cavallo, that was made of the Potters sheards at one time, which brought the tributary gold to this imperiall seate: the seven Piramides, some whereof during her former glory, were transported from Ægypt: The high and small statues of Peter and Paul, the Castell St. Angelo, which Adrian first founded, standing now in a moderate circumferent height, with incircling battlements, and their doubtfull transported Reliques from Jerusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked, some whereof were frivolous, some ambiguous and some famous.

Neere to mount Palatin, and the decayed temple of Romulus, I saw the Temple of Venus, converted now to the Church of Sancta Maria, Liberatrice Dalla piene de Inferno, The deliverer from infernall paynes, as Venus was the Consolatrix of amorous paynes.

Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy spectacle, which was the Library of the auncient Romans, being licentiated to enter with two Gentlemen, Sir William Carre, Mr. James Aughmuty my Countrey men, where when I was come, I beheld a world of old Bookes, the first whereof, was an infinite number of Greeke Bibles subscribed with the hands of these holy Fathers, who (as they say) translated them out of the Hebrew tongue.

I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the soule, health, life, nature and qualities of men, with the Medicaments of Galen, for the diseases and [Famous Authors.] infirmities of man: The familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Æneidot of Virgil, the Saphicke Verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the workes of Ovid, Pliny, Plutarke, Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Seneca, Plato, Homer, Tirentius, Cato, Hippocrates, Josepus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculus, Eusebius, S. Austine, S. Ambrose, S. Cyprian, S. Gregory, and likewise the workes of other excellent Phylosophers, Divines and Poets: all wrote with their owne hands, and sealed with their names, and manuall subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first auncient writing which was upon leaves of trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barkes of trees, with strange figures, and unknowne Letters, that was brought from Ægypt: for the Ægyptians first devised the use thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligatory writings of Emperors, Kings and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be Registred by the next beholder.

Still left untold, something there must be seene For them, who trace our feete, with Argos eyne: Yet let them stay, and take this verball note, They who would better write, must larger quote.

Bidding adew to my company, and this Library, I longed to view the gorgeous Mosaicall worke of S. Peters Church: The matter was no sooner conceived, but I went to the doore, yet afraid to enter, because I was not accustomed with the carriage, and ceremonies of such a Sanctum Sanctorum: but at the last, abandoning all scrupulosities, I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entred within the doore, I espied the portrayed image of S. Peter [The brasen Image of Saint Peter.] erected of pure Brasse, and sitting on a brasen Chaire. The fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they go straight to this Idoll, and saluting with many crosses his senslesse body, kisse his feete, and every one of his severall toes: insomuch that those his comfortlesse feete are growne firy red, while his body, save his breasts, remaineth brazen blew: and yet forsooth some of their learned Rabines will not have this superstition, but an humble commemoration of their adored Saints, or the like, for procuring favour of intercession, whilst the erected Idoll (interum) receiveth all their superfluous abhominations of diurnall worship. Next, they lay their heads under the sole of his right foote, and arising, rub their Beades on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse masse of mettall, more then though it were a living creature.

O wonderfull and strange spectacle? that these onely titular Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans, to worship and reverence the workemanship of mens hands. Woe and shame be unto you all blind Hereticall Papists; Why should you make to your selves Idols and Images of gold, silver, brasse, yron, stone, earth and tree; And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason, alledging, you do it onely in remembrance, where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance: May not the prohibition of the 2. Commandement of Gods Law, which absolutely you abrogate, dividing the last Commandement in two; confound the errour of this Idolatry, ingrafted in your hardned hearts.

What vertue can be in a lumpe of brasse? or what comfort in the devices of handy-crafts-men? Alas, nothing but eternall sorrow & condemnation. This was one of the lamentable errors I saw in the Roman Sea, amongst many other thousands: When the foolish Listranes or Licaonians would have sacrificed Buls to the honour of Paul and Barnabas, they rent their cloaths, and ranne in among the people, crying, and saying; O men, why doe you those things, we are even men subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, That the Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of man; yet when they are dead, the [Superstition of Papists.] Romanists will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone or tree. What unworthy-fained traditions and superstitious Idolatry? What strange new devising trickes they use, to plant idle monasteriall Loyterers? How many manner of wayes these belly-minded slaves Epicure-like leade their lives? And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into, practising even unnatural vices, I meane of their wrongfuly called Religious Bishops, Priests, Friers, Curates, and all the hypocriticall crew, of these pervers'd Jebusites, no heart can expresse; nor the most eloquent tongue can sufficiently unfold. Whose luxurious lives are vulgarly promulgat in this Hispanicall proverbe:

Unnas tienen de gatto, y el habito de beato, El cruz en los Pechos, ye el diabolo en los hechos.

They have a Cats clawes, and a blest Saints weed, The crosse on their breasts, the divels in their deed.

But for feare of Excommunication from that Anti-christian Curtezan. I dare not persevere longer herein: Although I can; yea, and so truely bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any Romane Novice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Britaine had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I have had, I am certainly perswaded, with tears & sighes, they would heavily bemone the terrible fal of that Babylonian whoore, which in a prophane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely sweare to thee, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian usually doth in his humours) by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father, Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacriledge, incest, or villany a Papist committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the Simonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ovem sine lana.)

[Pardons for pennies.] And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations, adjoyned Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands, lesse, or more yeeres. The period of Time, after eight and twenty dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these blood-sucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine owne Country-men, the chiefest of whom was Robert Mophet a Jesuit borne in St. Andrewes, David Chambers, and of our Colledge there, one Gordon, and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough: And to speake trueth, if it had not beene for Robert Meggat, borne neere to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old [My escape from Rome.] Earle of Tirone, who hid me secretly for three dayes in the top of his Lords Pallace, when all the streets and ports of Rome were layd for me, who conveighing me away at the fourth mid-night, and leapt the walles of Rome with me, I had doubtlesse dyed as hot a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second Travells: And for better record Patricke Baxstter, now dwelling in Dundy, and then followed the Earle of Tyron can justifie the same, my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge. Yet I may justly affirme it in these parts a man can finde no worser enimie then his nationall supposed friend, Religion being the cause of it, and at home none more false nor deceitfull then a bosome friend.

Mens mindes, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits, They hurling come and goe, like fish at baits.

And the Italian saith in his Proverbe; God keepe me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which, I revolve in this verse;

Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comitesque Ducesque

Most noble Naples, breeds but Dukes and Earles, And gallant Knights, with Ladies load with Pearles.

Among many other things neare to this City, (which in the conclusion of this Historicall discourse be more particularly expressed) were Lacus Avernus, Sibillaes Cave, Puteoli, the Sulphurean mountaine Capua and Cuma, where banished Æneas from Troy and Carthage arrived. I saw the Monument of Virgills buriall standing in the fore face of his owne Grotto, that is cut through the mountaine of Cataia, being passable for Coatches, and a halfe mile long; and affixed these lines thereupon;

In Mantua from Mothers wombe, I first conceived breath; Parthenope reserves the Tombe, My Sepulcher of Death.

Italy was called so of Italus, a King in Sicily, which first taught the people agriculture: The more impropriated names were Hesperia, because it is situate under the evening starre Hesperus: Latium, because Saturne driven from Creet by his sonne Jupiter, hic latebat abditus; and Ænotria in regard of the abundance of wines it produceth. This Countrey was first sayd to be inhabited by Janus, Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the [The first plantation of Italy.] tribes of the Samnites, Sabines, Laurentani, and Tarentines: The second Plantation was by Evander, and certaine other Arcadians, who being banished from their native dwellings, seated themselves here: Thirdly, by the Trojanes, under conduct of Æneas, who forsaking the delicious lives of the effeminate Affricans arrived here, and were kindly entertained by King Latinus, whose daughter Lavinia, Æneas married: So thus from the Trojans the Italians bragge of their discent; and so likewise boast divers other nations to have discended from that Dardan stocke, as glorying in such a famous pedegree. The length of Italy is nine hundreth Italian miles, though some allot a thousand, it is false, for I have trod foure severall times from end to end of it on the soles of my feete, even from Vallese, the first Towne in Piemont, discending mount Synais from La Croix Southward, which secludeth Savoy; and to Capo Bianco in Calabria, hemb'd in with the gulfe Tarento on the one side, and the Faro of Messina on the other, it being the furthest promontore of Italy.

So in a false description, some blind Geographers, through base ignorance, make England longer then Scotland in their Mappes, when Scotland, by the best judgements, and mine owne better experience, is a hundred and twenty miles longer then England: It is a deocular errour, which I could wish to be reformed, as in the conclusion of this worke I shall more credibly make cleare.

The breadth of Italy at the roote and beginning thereof, bending along the Alpes from the Adriaticke coast, to the riviera di Genoa, or Ligurian shore, is but 240. Italian miles, growing narrower, and narrower, till it shut out it selfe in two hornes, Calabria, and Terra di Ottranto. The breadth of which, or either, extendeth not above foureteene English miles from sea to sea, the gulfe Tarento (which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelfes) deviding the two homes. On the North side of Terra di Ottranto, lieth Apulia, bordering with Mare superum, a very fruitfull soile for cornes; & West-ward thence boundeth, terra di lavoro, or proprium regnum Napolitanum. These foure territories make up the intire [The Kingdome of Naples.] Kingdome of Naples: The chiefe Cities of which, are Naples, Capua and Salerno, in terra di Lavoro: In Calabria, are Cousenza, the chiefe seate of the President, or Subvicegerent, Rhegio, Allauria, and Montecilione: In terra di Ottranto, are Otranto the which towne being taken by Mahomet the great, Anno 1481. involved all Italy in such a feare, that for a whole yeare, and till the expulsion of the Turks, Rome was quite forsaken, the next are Lucia, and Brundusium beautified with a famous haven.

And in Apulia, are Manfredo, Arpino where Tully was borne, Venusio, whence Horace had his birth, and Canno famous for the victory of Hanniball, against the Romans. The Church-land beginnes beyond Rome eighty miles at Terracina, being just opposit to Gayetta, the West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdome, neare to Mount Circello, and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di Roma, or the Churches patrimony, imbracing both seas, till it runne to Ponto Centino in Tuscana: which divideth the precincts of Re di Coffine, & Aquacupadente, the last frontiers of the great Duke and Popes lands. All which bounds to Terracina, and in the way of Venice from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma, or Latium; and thence it reacheth along Northwest, by the Venetian gulfe, to the uttermost bounds of the Dutchy of Ferara, being thirty miles from Venice: Extending in length to three hundred & fifty miles, whose breadth is narrow, and where it joyneth with both seas, it is but sixty miles. The Church-land is [The foure Papall Territories.] divided in foure territories, Campagna di Roma, or old Latium; Rome, Viterbo, Narni, Tarni, Viletri, Montefiascone, and Civitavecchia, being the chiefe Cities: Next, the Countrey of Ombria, or Ombrosa, lying betweene Rome and Loretta, the chiefe Cities are Spaleto, from whence it is reckoned a Dutchy, Perugia, a Sacerdotall University, Fulino, and Asisi, where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was borne. At the which Asisi, I saw the place (as they say) where the Angell appeard to his mother, telling her, that she should conceave and beare a sonne, should be the Champion of Jesus, and hard by they shew me the Crub or Stall where he was borne, with many other foolish lyes both sinfull and abhominable: every way representing his imaginary life, like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our blessed Saviour. The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side, Ancona being principall, the other Cities are Asculi, Marcerata, Tolentino, Riginati, Aguby, and Parasiticall Loretta. The fourth is Romania, lying along toward Ferrara, betweene the sea, and the hills Appenine.

This Ecclesiasticke dowry of Romania, is disjoyned from Marca di Ancona, by the Duke of Urbins lands, which division by the sea side is thirty miles in length, containing Pesaro, Fanno, and Sinigalia all sea port Townes, the other of this Dutchy are Urbino, and Casteldurante. The chiefe Towne in Romania, is Ravenna, which for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy: Here the Popes Legate remaineth, the other be Rimini, Fereola, Bullogna and Ferrara, and this much for the Popes foure Ecclesiasticke territories.

Tuscana or Ætruria lying South from the middle of this Church-land is 100. miles in length, and as much [The Duke of Florence his Patrimony.] in breadth, I meane of that belonging to the great Duke: Which hereditary boundes was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando, Father to late Cosmus, and brother to Mary of Medicis, the French Queene Mother now living: Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa and Siena: The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction, is the little comonwealth of Luca: The chiefe Citty is Florence, whose streetes are divided by the River Arno; the other of this principality, are Pisa, Siena, Pistoia, Empoli, Ligorne, and Arretzo.

From Tuscany to the West, and North-west, lieth Lumbardy, intituled the garden of the World, which is now divided (besides the Venetian territory, of which I will speake in the owne place) in foure principalities, Milaine, Mantua, Parma and Modena: The other Cities be Cremona, Pavia, Lodi, Pleasance, Rhegio Brisiles, Palestra, Navarro and Allessandria di Paglia. This Province is mainely watered through the middle with stately Po, in which Phaeton was drenched, when he came tumbling downe from Heaven. The Rivers Ladishe, Montanello, Delia Guarda, and other forcible streames supporting the shoulders of it.

[Piemont and Genuaes Jurisdictions.] West from Lumbardy lieth Piemont, betweene it and Savoy: The City whereof, and wherein the Savoyan Duke hath his Residence is Torino, situate on Po. The other, Aste Verseilles and Cowie. South from Piemont and Lumbardy, lieth the Riviera of Genoa, along the Mediterrean sea: the territory of which is narrow, but above one hundreth miles in length: All which is exceeding rocky and mountainous, yet producing good store of Orenges, Lemmons, Figges and Ches-nuts, whereon the Mountaineri onely live, being either rosted, or baked in bread: The chiefe Cities of this Genewesen Liguria, are Genoa, [Italy lyeth as the right arme, reaching forth from the maine body of Europe.] and Savona. Italy lying in forme of a legge, is on both sides environed with the Sea, save onely the North-west part, and roote thereof, which is devided from France and Germany, by the Ligurian, Savoyean, Grisonean, Zingalian, and Tirolian alpes, which bend North-east, and South-west, inclosing it from the body of Europe, from sea to sea. Italy of all other Regions under the Sunne, hath beene most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune, yet not a little glorying in these famous Captaines, Fabius Maximus the buckler, and Camillus the sword of Rome, Scipio, Pompey, and Cæsar; for venerable Poets Virgil, Ovid, and renowned Horace, famous also for the Orator Cicero, and the Historians Tacitus, and Livius: The soyle is generally abundant in all things necessary for humane life, and the people for the most part are both grave and ingenious, but wondrous deceitfull in their actions, so unappeasable in anger, that they cowardly murther their enemies rather then seeke an honourable revenge, and so inclind to unnaturall vices, that for bestiality they surpasse the Infidells: the women of the better sort are slavishly infringed from honest and lawfull liberty: They of the middle ranke somewhat modest in carriage, witty in speech, and bountifull in affection: They of the vulgar kind are both ignorant, sluttish and greedy, and lastly the worser dregs, their impudent Curtezans, the most lascivious harlots in the world. This much in generall for the briefe description of this Region, and so I revert to mine itinerary relation.

In the meane while, having alwayes a regard of my hasty dispatching from Christendome, I returned through Terra di Lavoro, by the sea side, Campagna di Roma, aunciently Latium, and Ombria, now the Dutchy of Spaleto, even to Loretta, standing in the Marca of Ancona, addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leave, let me lay downe before your eyes some notable illusions of Modonna di Loretta, which I found in my way-faring journey, to amplifie my former discourse, concerning the errours of the Roman Church, and as yet was never Englished in our language.

Before I came neare to Loretta by tenne miles, I overtooke a Caroch, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; who when they espied me, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to travell alone? After I had to these demands given satisfaction, they intreated me to come up in the Caroch, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable, and my body unwearied. At last they perceiving my absolute refusall, presently dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselves in my company: and incontinently, the two young unmarried Dames came forth also, and would by no perswasion of me, nor their familiars mount againe; saying, they were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loretta (for devotion sake) in pilgrimage, and for the pennance enjoyned to them by their Father Confessour. Truely so farre as I could judge, their pennance was small, being carried with horses, and the appearance of their devotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.