Part 28

[The Lake of Geneva, and the River Rhone.] The Lake of Geneve is sixteene Leagues in length, and two broad, at the South-west end whereof standeth the Towne, through whose middle runneth the River of Rhone, whose Head and body beginneth from the Lake among the very houses. The nature of which River is not unlike to Nylus, for when all other Rivers decrease (being in Summer) this increaseth. Two reasons proceeding from the excessive Snow that lye upon the Sangalian and Grisonean Alpes, which cannot melt, till about our longest day, that the force and face of the Sunne dissolve it. And so ingorging the Lake, it giveth Rhone such a body, that it is the swiftest River in Europe. The Towne on both sides the flood, is strongly fortified with rampierd walles, and counter-banding Bulwarkes; the Ditch without and about being dry, is mainly pallasaded with wooden stakes, for preventing of suddain Scallets. Many assaults have this handfull of people suffered by Land and Water from the Savoyean Duke; the recitall whereof would plunge me in prolixity; and therefore committing that Light shining Syon, and her Religious Israelites, to the tuition of the Almighty, I step over the Alpes to Torine.

[The first beginning of the Duke of Savoy.] Here is the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, whose beginning sprung first from the house of Saxon: For Berold or Berauld, being a neere Cousen to the Emperour Otton the third, and brother to the Saxon Duke; the Emperour gratified him with these Lands of Savoy, and parts of Piemont; where he and his Successors continued foure hundred yeares under the title of Earles: untill the Emperour Sigismond, at the Counsell of Constance, did Create Amee, the eight Earle of his name Duke. And so beginning with him to this present Duke now living, named Charles Emanuel, there have been only eight Dukes, and some of them of short lives. And yet of all the Christian Dukes, the most Princely Court is kept heere, for Gallants, Gentry, and Knights.

At the same time, of my being there, this present Duke had wars with his owne brother in Law Philip the third, about the Marquesade of Montferrat, and Dutchy of Mantua, the issue whereof, but retorted to the Duke a redoubling disadvantage; though now it be gone from the Gonsagaes to the French Duke of Naviers. This Country of Piemont is a marvailous fruitfull and playne Countrey, and wonderfull populous, like to the River sides of Arno round about Florence: Insomuch that a Venetian damaunding a Piemont Cavalier, what Piemont was? Replyed, it was a Towne of three hundred miles in circuite, meaning of the Habitations and populosity of the Soyle.

The rest of the surnames of the Italian Dukes are these, viz. that of Parma is Fernese, signifying Partridges; that of Modena is Astie, that of Florence de Medicis; that of Urbine, Francesco Maria, and the last Duke of Mantua, Gonsaga; the Dutchy of Ferrara, being dissolved, is converted to the Popes patrimony.

Leaving Piemont, and coasting the sassinous shoare of Genoaes revieroe, I ported Ligorne, the great Dukes Sea-haven; where I left Mr. Bruce with a Galley Captaine a voluntary Souldier; and inclining alone to Florence by the [A comfortable crosse.] way at Pestoia, I found a comfortable crosse; for I sighting the market place after supper, and carrying a French Ponyard in my pocket, the head of it was espied by a Badgello, Captaine of the Sergeants, who straight gripped me, bore me to prison, and clapd me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my moneyes and Poneyard; and posting that night to Florence on the morrow shew the Justice there a Stilleto of his owne: upon which I was condemned to row in the Gallies for a yeare, else to pay a hundred Duckats: He stayed there three dayes, in this time was I discovered to the governour of Pistoia, a noble Gentleman, and being brought before him, and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty of the Badgello: nor that I never wore a Stilleto, but under pretext of that had robbed mee of three-score and twelve pieces of gold: Whereupon the Governour perceiving the knavery of the Villaine, and that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending, to whose place it belonged, he grew immatulent and forthwith sent post to his Highnesse, shewing him the trueth of the businesse: Whereupon the Badgello was sent backe to the Governour with whom I was domestickly reserved; and being accused before my face of his roguery, could not deny it: well, my gold and my Poneyard is restored againe, the Badgello banished the territorie of Pistoia for ever, with his Wife and Children, and I received in compensation of my abuses, from his Highnesse Chamber or Treasury there, fifty Florentine Crownes of gold, being modified by the Duke him selfe; whereat I extolled the knave, that wrought his own wracke in seeking my overthrow, and brought me such a noble reward.

Thanking God for this joyfull crosse and approaching Florence, I found one John Browne there, whose company I imbraced to Sicilia: Whence having privatly past Rome, and publickly Naples, we footed along the marine by [Cousenza in Calabria.] Salerno, and courting Cousenza, the capitall seate of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth, we reposed there certaine dayes.

The Towne is of no quantity nor quality, in regard of the obscurenesse and solitarinesse of the Countrey, the better sort of their Gentry living at Naples: Having left the lower, and entred the higher Calabria, we arrived at the Bourge of Allavria; and the next morning traversing close and covert mountaines, twelve miles along, in the midst of our passage we were beset with foure Bandits and foure Gunnes: To whom holding up my hand, and imploring for our lives, shewing them mine adventures and former travells, they unbend their fire-locks, and reading my patent of Jerusalem, uncovered their heads, and did me homage, notwithstanding they were absolute murderers: Our lives and liberty is granted, and for a greater assurance, they tooke us both in to a great thicket of wood, where their timberd Cabine stood, and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheare their sequestrate cottage could afford.

And now because there were forty more Bandits their companions among these mountaines, one of themselves for our safeguard, came along with us, and as neare Castellucia as he durst; making me sweare that I should not shew the Baron of that place of their privat residence, neither that I met with them at all; which I freely did, and so gave him many hearty and deserved thanks.

[The liberty of Bandits in Calabria.] These Bandits or men-slayers, will come into any free Towne in the night when they please, and recovering either a Church or Hospitall, they stay there as they list, conducing with their friends, their wives, and their affaires; being as safe in these places as though they had not committed any criminall fact, neither may the power of Justice reach to them, so long as they keepe themselves within doores.

This is an auncient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained, and so is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions: Having arrived at Castellucia, the Baron thereof made much of me, and wondred that I had safely past the mountaines, for said he when I go for Naples, I am forced to go by sea, notwithstanding I have forty in traine.

The next day in passing Montecilione, the fairest and fruitfullest bounded Bourg in all Calabria superior; I saw a distectured house; which the people told me had beene the Schoole, where Dionisius the third and last Tyrant of Sicilia (after his flight from the Kingdome and Crowne) taught Children privatly nine yeares, ere hee was knowne to be a King, but a poore Schoolemaster.

This higher Calabria though mountainous, aboundeth in delicious Wines, fine pastorage, and exceeding good Silke: The Peasants alwayes commonly here are addicted to eate Onions, whence rose this Proverbe, I Calabrese magniano di Cepoli, the Calabrians feed upon Onions. Their women weare uncomely habits, being hooded from their browes to their backes behind, with sixe or seven sundry colours of cloth or stuffe; whose upper gownes come no further downe than their middle thighes: And their breaches and stockings being all one, and their legges halfe booted, they looke like the ghostly Armenian Gargosons.

I remember in passing this higher Countrey, I found divers Cassales or Terraes, (small Villages) of certaine [Greeke Albaneses fled to Calabria.] Greekes called Albaneses, whose predecessors had fled from Albania, when the Turke seased upon Epyre, and this their Province; and was priviledged here to stay by the Spaniard Philip the first: And though exiled from their naturall Patrimonies, (Omne solum forti patria est) yet are they exceeding kind to strangers, measuring largely their owne infranchized fortune, with the voluntary exposement of many unnecessary Viadants: Declining thence to the marine Bourge of Molino, being by land which we footed distant from Naples 400. miles; we crossed the narrow Faro, or Sycilian Euripus, to Messina being two miles broad. Where, when landed, and meeting with a young Scots Edenburgensen William Wylie, come from Palermo, and bound for Venice, I fastned John Browne with him to accompany his returne; and on the following day imbarked them both backe for Calabria.

And now having followed the Italian saying Si meglior a star solo come mala accompaniato; It is better for a man to be alone, then in ill company; I traversed the Kingdome to Trapundie seeking transportation for Affricke, but could get none: And returning thence overthwart the Iland, I call to memory being lodged in the Bourge of Saramutza, belonging to a young Baron, and being bound the way of Castello Francko eight miles distant and appertaining to another young Noble youth, I rose and marched by the breach of day; where it was my lucke halfe way from [Two young Barons killed at combat.] either Towne, to finde both these beardlesse Barons, lying dead, and new killed in the fields, and their horses standing tyed to a bush beside them; whereat being greatly moved, I approached them, and perceiving the bodies to be richly cled with silken Stuffes facily conjectured what they might be: My host having told me the former night, that these two Barones were at great discord, about the love of a young Noble woman; and so it was, for they had fought the combat for her sake, and for their owne pride lay slaine here. For as fire is to Gun powder, so is ambition to the heart of man, which if it be but touched with selfe-love, mounteth aloft, and never bendeth downeward, till it be turned into ashes.

And here it proved for that Ladies sake, that troppo amore turnd to Presto dolore: Upon which sight, to speake the trueth, I searched both their pockets, and found their two silken purses full loaden with Spanish Pistolls, whereat my heart sprung for joy, and taking five rings off their foure hands, I hid them and the two purses in the ground, halfe a mile beyond this place: And returning againe, leapt to one of their horses, and came galloping backe to Saramutza; where calling up my host, I told him the accident; who when he saw the horse gave a shout for sorrow, and running to the Castle told the Lady the Barons Mother: where in a moment, shee, her children, and the whole Towne runne all with me to the place, some cled, some naked, some on foote, and some on horse: where, when come grievous was it to behold their woefull and sad lamentations. I thus seeing them all madde and distracted of their wits with sorrow, left them without good-night: And comming to my Treasure, made speedy way to Castello Franco, where bearing them the like newes, brought them all to the like distraction and flight of feet.

Well, in the mutability of time there is aye some fortune falleth by accident, whether lawfull or not, I will not question, it was now mine that was last theirs, and to save the thing that was not lost, I travailed that day thirty miles further to Terra nova. Whence the next morning beeing earely imbarked for Malta, and there safely Landed; [A London ship called the Matthew.] I met with a ship of London called the Mathew, bound for Constantinople lying in the Roade where indeede with the Company I made merry a shoare for three dayes, and especially with one George Clarke their Burser, who striving to plant in my braines a Maltezan Vineyard, had almost perished his owne life.

Upon the fourth day, they hoysing sayle, and I staying a shoare, it was my good lucke within eight dayes to find a French ship of Tolon come from the Levante, and bound for Tunneis by the way in going home. With whom desirously consorted, within three dayes we touched at our intended Port. And now to reckon the gold that I found in the aforesayd purses, it amounted to three hundred and odde double Pistols; and their Rings being set with Dyamonds, were valued to a hundred Chickens of Malta, eight shillings the peece, which I dispatched for lesser: But the gold was my best second, which like Homers Iliades under Alexanders pillow, was my continuall vade Mecum.

Tunneis is the Capitall seate of its owne Territory, and of all the East and lower Barbary, containing ten thousand fire-houses: And it is the place where old Carthage stood, that was builded by the Tyrians and Phenicians of the Holy Land, some three score twelve yeares before Rome, and had twenty miles in circuit: Which City in these times, was the soveraigne Queene of Affrick, and the onely envy, and predominant malice of the Romanes, being more then Romes rivall mate, in greatnesse, glory, and dominion: Neverthelesse in end, it was taken, sackt, and burnt by Scipio the Affrican Romane, some sixe hundred and two yeares after Rome was first founded, and her ruines and large Territories without, made subject to the ambition of Rome.

[The divers plantations of Carthage.] After which detriment, desolate Carthage was rebuilded by Cæsar, and a Collony of Italians transported there, flourished for a time, till it was destroyed and overrunne by the Gothes and Vandales: And lastly subdued by the Sarazens and Moores, it was by them transmitted to the Turkish power, who now is Maister of it, being no way answerable to the sixe part of the greatnes it had before. This Towne is situate in the bottome of a Creeke, where the Sea for a mile having cut the bosome of the Land, maketh a large and safe resting place for ships and galleyes. Which Haven and Towne is secured from Sea invasions, by the great and strong Fortresse of Galetto, builded on a high Promontore, that imbraceth the Sea, and commandeth the mouth of the Bay; wherein a Turkish Bassaw, and a strong Garrison of Souldiers remaine: the Fort it selfe being well provided with armes, men, Artillery and munition.

The Kingdome of Tunneis comprehended once the whole Countrey that the auncients called properly Affrick or little Affrick, being the old Numidia, and was divided then in these five Provinces, Bugia, Constantino, that of Tunneis, Tripoly, and Ezzebba. In the Towne of Bugia, lying halfe way twixt Tunneis and Algeir, and 40. leagues from either being now called Arradetz, there was auncient beautifull Temples, Colledges, magnifick buildings, Hospitals, and Convents after their fashion: but the Towne being taken, and razed Anno 1508. by Peter King of Navarre, it hath remained ever since without beauty or ornament, save a few rusticke Inhabitants.

[The marine provinces twixt Tunneis and Algier.] The province of Constantine, lyeth twixt Tunneis and Bugia; the Towne Constantine, now Abirouh, being Capitall, and was surnamed Cortes and Julia: It is begirded with Rockes, and auncient walles contayning eight hundred fire-houses, wherein are the relicts of an Arke triumphant, formerly built by the Romanes; and in this Province sixteene leagues within land, was the Towne of Hippo, now Bosen, whereof St. Augustine was Bishop.

The Territory of Tunneis, lyeth betweene the borders of Abirouh Westward, and the limits of Tripoly Eastward, being of length foure score miles: and on this Sea-coast lyeth the Towne Biserta, adorned with a commodious Haven, and sixe Gallies, the most scelerate of condition, and celerious in flying or following of all the cursares in Turky: Tripoly in Barbary, (commonly called so) was once drowned by the Sea, but now its situation was transported safely a little more Southward; which sometimes was beautified with Merchants of Genoa, Ragusa, and Venice, but now become a den of theeves, and Sea-Pirats, and so are all the marine Townes, twixt Ægypt and Morocco.

The last Province of the kingdom of Numidia, is Ezzebba lying East from Tripoly, and confining with Cyreno a pendicle of Ægipt: The chiefest part whereof is Messaicke being twenty foure Leagues from Tripoly, contayning many Villages, and Townes on the playnes and Mountaynes, abounding in Silkes, Cornes, and diverse Fruites.

All these five Maritine Provinces, have but narrow Inlands, not advancing South-ward from the Sea coast above forty miles. Here in Tunneis I met with our [An English Pyrat Captaine Waird.] English Captayne, generall Waird, once a great Pyrat, and Commaunder at Sea; who in despight of his denied acceptance in England, had turned Turke, and built there a faire Palace, beautified with rich Marble and Alabaster stones: With whom I found Domesticke, some fifteene circumcised English Runagates, whose lives and Countenances were both alike, even as desperate as disdainfull. Yet old Waird their maister was placable, and joyned me safely with a passing Land conduct to Algiere; yea, and diverse times in my ten dayes staying there, I dyned and supped with him, but lay aboord in the French shippe.

At last having obtayned my pasport from the Bassaw there, and surety taken for my life and moneyes, I imbraced the Land way with this Conduct, consisting of forty Moores, and a hundred Camels loaden with Silkes, Dimmeteis, and other Commodities, traversing the aforesayd Regions of Abirouh, and Arradetz. In all which way (lying nightly in a Tent) I found a pleasant and fruitfull Country, abounding in Wines, Rye, Barly, Wheate, and all kinde of fruites, with innumerable villages, and so infinitely peopled, that it made me wish there had beene none at all; otherwise that they had beene Christians, and so more civill.

The greatest enemy this journey designed mee, was the Sunne, whose exceeding heate was intollerable to indure, being in September Anno 1615. But for provision of Water, Wine, and Victuals wee had abundance. Upon the seaventh day of our course, wee entred in the [Tremizen in Barbary.] Countrey of Tremizen, formerly Mauritanea Cæsarea: This Kingdome hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana, contayning the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or Desartuous Numidia. On the East with the Rivers of Muluia and Amphlaga, the Marches of Arradetz. And on the North the Sea Mediterren, opposite to Sardinia. The Countrey is in length from the East to the West, some twenty five of their courses, and of our miles about three hundred; and of breadth betweene the Sea and Gotulia, no more than thirty English miles.

This copious Kingdome in all things, hath beene oft and ever molested with the Numidian Sarazens, or bastard Arabs, who falling downe from the Mountaines, do runne their carriere at random upon the ground-toyled Moores, to satisfie their needy and greedy desires. Tremizen or Telensim, had of old foure Provinces, but now onely two [The Towne of Tremizen decayed with Warres.] its owne Territory, and that of Algier: Whose capitall Towne being too cognominated Tremizen, contayned once eighteene thousand fire houses. But in regard of Josephus King or Fez, who besieged it seaven yeares, over-mastering it and then subdued by Charles the fifth, and likewise the Turkes investion of it, and finally because of the long warres, twixt the Seriff or King there, and the Turke; it is become a great deale lesser and almost disinhabited, and the most part of that Countrey subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algier.

At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis, having arrived at Algier, and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect, I stayed in a Spaniards house, turned Runagate, who kept a roguish Taverne, and a ground planked Hospitality. In all this way of twelve score miles, I payed no Tribute, neyther had I any eminent perrill, the Country being peaceable, though the people uncivill.

[The theevish Towne of Algier.] This Towne of Algier, was formerly under subjection to the Kingdome of Tremizen, but because of insupportable charges it revolted, and rendered to the King of Arradetz or Bugia: Afterwards it was under the King of Spaine, from whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515. being now under the Turke, and is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height, and standeth triangular. The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified, with earth-back'd walles, Bulwarkes, and Artillery, but the semi-squared land-walles, are of small importance, and easily to be surprised; and three miles in circuite, contayning some thirty thousand persons.

There is a Turkish Bashaw here, and a strong Garrison of sixe thousand Janizaries, with two hundred Cursary ships or Pyrats who ever preying upon Christian Commercers, by their continuall spoyles and prises, have made the divelish Towne wonderfull rich; and become the inveterate enemy of Christendome; being now a Kingdome of it selfe, and in length from East to West betweene the Townes Terracot and Guargola, some sixe score miles. It hath a long reaching mould in the Sea, that maketh a safe harbor for their ships agaynst Northerly windes, which on that Coast are deadly dangerous. At this time, the greatest part of the Towne were fled to the mountaynes to shun the parching heate that beateth violently on the Plaines, and Sea-shore; so doe all the maritine Townes of Barbary the like every Sommer, for the moneths July, August, and September: which then being left halfe naked of defence, it were the onely time for Christianes to invade or surprise their Townes.