Part 27
They gone, and I reposing here, the governour of that place, for this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three dayes, and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the friends of them that were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge you, that best can judge on discretion. This Citty is situate on a Promontore, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entery, and was once the Capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyranies, and late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place: Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruites, and delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.
From this place, over-tracing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at Ætnaes foote; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Iland, till my returne for Affricke, being my second Voyage: For true it is, double experience, deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.
[An happy arrivall.] From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat loaden with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the Lavorean lists, uppon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees, for my safe arrivall in Christendome: And meeting there with the Earle of Bothwell, and Captayne George Hepburne, I imbraced the way to Rome, being sixe score and ten miles distant: where I stole one nights lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia, Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities rest revolv'd in these following verses.
Illustrat Sænas, patriæ facundia Lingua, Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives; Libera luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus: Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem: Genua habet portum, mercesque domosque superbas: Excellit studiis, facunda Bononia cunctis, Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque Butirum, Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis; Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra Placentia caris: Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis, Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum, Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.
Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke might have beene the mirrour of Nobility, I kept my way through Piemont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountayne of Mont Cola [The Ligurian Alpes.] di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes: I found on its top, that it reserveth alwayes a Gradinian mist, for a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow, each one a Speares length from another, to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which stoopes if hee fayle, hee is lost for ever.
After I had traversed this difficult passage, I had two dayes journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria, over which Hannibal had so much adoe, to conduct his Army to Italy; making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine: Whence it was sayd of him, Viam aut inveniet Anniball, aut faciet: Leaving these Mountaynes behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance, situate on the Mediterren Sea; and passing the Townes of Antibo and Cana, to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set uppon me in a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of which had dogged me hither from Niece: Where having extreamely given me a fearefull chase, for a long League, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well, in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women, and three young Children, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.
[A happy escape from murder.] After I had sup'd and going to bed, in came these aforesayd Villaines, accompanied with my Host; where, when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threatning me with stroakes, consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for he was their Companion, and to second their intention his wife made fast the lower doore. Whereat being mooved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe, and opening my Sacket; sayd, Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stranger, newly come from Jerusalem, and the Sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands rob me of my turmoyled life; having nought, wherefore you should, were a lamentable thing to do.
This spoken, and much more, they never searched me, nor touched my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded uppon my forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I had no money, and therefore confirmed my life, which for the former respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up my Relickes agayne, they called for Wine, and drunke diverse times to me; and after a long spent conference, there supper making ready, they dismissed me for my bed: Whether, when led by my Hostesse, I privily made the doore fast, suspecting still a suddaine death: Well they sup'd, and were joviall, and at the first Cocke, went foorth to the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.
All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host confessed, that onely he had saved my life; forswearing himselfe of their former sight; but sayd hee certainly they are Murderers. Leaving him with dissembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned [A guard of Horsemen for a dangerous wood.] that my Host was suspected to bee a Consort with these and many moe Murderers: well afterwards I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed, and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous woode free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a long Voyage, is eyther in greatest danger, or else cast away, entring the Roade and Haven from whence shee came; even so was I cast in the most eminent perill, that I had in all my Travayles, being on the Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places) entering the Towne wherein I was borne.
Having given humble thankes, and lofty prayses to the Almighty for my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to Montpeillier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with my sight, kindly intreated me for eight dayes, and highly rewarded mee with Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris: whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine, I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Johanne, the Pyrhenei mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the River Ortes, I visited Gascony and Bearne; and from them, the Cities of Burdeaux and Rochel: and arriving at Paris, whence I first beganne my Voyage; I also there ended my first, my painefull, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence shortly thereafter visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King James, and Queene Anne of ever blessed memories; and to his present Majesty King Charles, certayne rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought from Jordan and Jerusalem: Where afterward within a yeare, upon some distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.
THE END OF THE FIRST BOOKE, OF MY FIRST TRAVAILES.
THE EIGHT PART, &c.
Contayning the second Booke of my second Travailes.
Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque terram venio, in meam venio, nulla exilium est sed altera patria est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est Peregrinatur, si stultus exulat. Senec. de re, for.
Let not surmisers thinke, ambition led My second toyles, more flash flowne praise to wed; Nay; there was reason, and the cause is Knowne For Courtly crosses, seldome stay unshowne: Well, I am sped; through Belgia then I trace; And footing Rhyne, to Geneve kept my pace, Thence cross'd I Sinais, Po, and Lombard bounds, The hils Appenine, the Ætrurian rounds: And nighting Rome, Parthenope I past, Even to Rhegio, of Townes Calabriaes last: Whence Sicily I view'd, and Ætna Mount; And Malta too, as I before was wont: Then sight I Tunneis, where old Carthage stood, And Scipio shed streames of Numidian blood. Hence Tremizen I trac'd, the Barbars shoare To Algeir, great Fez, the Atlanticke glore; The Berdoans Country, and the Lybian sands, The Garolines parch'd bounds, the Sabunck lands; And diverse soiles, of Savage Heathnick bounds, Whose names and stiles, this Affricke story sounds. Last in the Lybian lists, I'me forc'd to stay, Whence I return'd, for Tunneis the next way; And resting there, till Æoles seaven rig'd Towres, Prest Tritons backe; (crost Neptunes Paramours) And wish'd me saile; O then with speedy flight I boord the Ship, and bad the Moores good-night.
True it is, that these who make Distinction clearely, and the certayne knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and Practicke. And agayne, Speculative in Physicke, or Phylosophy naturall, in Mathematickes and Metaphysicke; placing Medicine under the first: Arithmeticke, Musicke, Geometry, and Astrology under the second: Uniting thirdly, Theology, to the which they give also to be adjoyned the right Canon.
As for the science Practique, it doth first imbrace the Morall that some divide in three, to wit, Ethique, that doth forme the manners of one man, Secondly in Ecoenomick, that doth dispose the actions domesticke: The third in Politicque, that comprehend the actions Civill; concerning the government of Common-wealths, which containeth under it the whole science of right civilitie. And with Practique, is also placed Dialectique, the Art of memory, the Grammar, the Rhetorique, to which also may be joyned the Art Poetique, and of Histories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious, as inutile to my designe in hand; divers dedicate themselves to the knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most necessary, to wit, the science of the world.
[The necessary use and honour of Travels.] This is it above all things that preferreth men to honors, and the charges that make great houses and Reipublicks to flourish; and render the actions and words of them who possesse it, agreeable both to great and small. This science is onely acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the most experimented: by divers discourses, reports, by writs, or by a lively voyce, in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious consideration of the fashion of the living one with another. And above all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof; and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth; neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions, for as judgement is seldome compatible with youth, but reserved to old age; so to a unconstant disposition, every accident is a constellation, by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the center of deepest resolution: whiles contrariwise the sound set man, though by opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time for advantage, not for feare; but as the Sun setteth to rise againe, so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second perambulation, it is best reserved [The Authors Apology.] to my owne knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for their sweetest temper, or their sowrest censure; for they that hunt after other mens fancies, goe rather to the market to sell than to buy, and love better to paint the bare fashion and out-sides of themselves, then to rectify or repaire their owne defects and errours; wherewith I leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my paines are mine owne, and not others; and therefore best worthy to judge of my owne labours, being best knowne to my selfe who dearest bought them: And so to make short this preamble, or conducing complement I come to the matter it selfe.
Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I beginne this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the Countrey and Dover, I courted Caleis, and so to Graveling, Dunkirke, and fatall Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.
To view the ruines of thy wasted walles, Loe! I am come, bewayling thy disgrace, Art thou this Bourge, Bellona so enstalles To be the mirrour for a Martiall face: I, sure its thou, whose bloody bathing bounds, Gave death to thousands, and to thousands wounds.
What Hostile force, besieg'd thee poore Ostend? With all Engine, that ever Warre devised: What Martiall troupes, did valiantly defend Thine earthen strengths, and Sconces unsurpris'd By cruell assaults, and desperate defence, Thine undeserved name, wonne honour thence.
Some deepe interr'd, within thy bosome lye, Some rot, some rent, some torne in peeces small: Some warlike maim'd, some lame, some halting crye: Some blowne through Clouds, some brought to deadly thral, Whose dire defects, renew'd with ghostly mones, May match the Thebane, or the Trojan groanes:
Base fisher towne, that fang'd thy nets before, And drencht into the deepe thy food to win: Art thou become a Tragicke stage, and more Whence bravest wits, brave Stories may begin To show the world, more then the world would crave, How all thine intrench'd ground, became one grave.
Thy digged ditches, turn'd a gulfe of blood, Thy wals defeat, were rear'd with fatall bones: Thine houses equall with the streetes they stood; Thy limits come, a Sepulcher of groanes: Whence Cannons ror'd, from fiery cracking smoake Twixt two extreames thy desolation broake.
Thou God of War, whose thundring sounds do feare This circled space, plac'd here below the rounds, Thou in oblivion hast Sepulchrized here, Earths dearest life, for now what else redounds But sighes and sobs, when treason, sword, and fire, Have throwne al down, when al thought to aspire.
Forth from thy marches, and frontiers about In sanguine hew, thou dy'd the fragrant fields; The camped trenches of thy foes without Were turn'd to blood, for valour never yeelds So bred ambition, honour, courage, hate, Long three yeares siege, to overthrow thy state.
At last from threatning terrour of despaire, Thine hembd defendants, with divided walles Were forcd to rander, then came mourning care Of mutuall foes, for friends untimely falles: Thus lost, and got, by wrong, and lawlesse right My judgement thinkes thee scarcely worth the sight: But there's the question, when my Muse hath done, Whether the victor, or the vanquisht wonne.
To flee hence in a word, I measured all the Netherlands with my feete in two moneths space; the description whereof is so amply set downe by moderne Authors, that it requireth no more: onely this, for policies, industries, strong Townes, and fortifications, it is the mirrour of vertue, and the garden of Mars; yea, and the light of all Europe, that he who hath exactly trade it, may say [Weisle taken by Spineola.] he hath seene the mappe of the whole Universe: And now ascending to Cleve, I came just to Grave Maurice Campe at Rhiese, as Spineola had taken Weisle; betweene which Armies for five weekes I had free intercourse, being kindly respected by both the Generalls: for Spineola set me at his owne table, and I lay in his second Tent nine nights; the Duke of Newenberg, and Don Pietro di Toledo being there both for the time: So with the Prince of Orange, with whom I discoursed divers times, was the Marques of Brandeburg, certaine Nobles, and forraine Ambassadours. All which time, O how it grieved me to see the tyranny of the Spaniards dayly executed upon the distressed Protestants of Weisle, over whom they domineered like Divells: for these afflicted Cittizens, being heavily oppressed, by their unsupportable usage, were beleagured with their friends, when they were held captive by their enemies; and obeying necessity, stayed their bodies within the walles, though their mindes were without, and intirely with the assailants.
Bidding adew to these Armies, and accompanied with a young Gentleman David Bruce, the L. of Clekmanan his Sonne, whom I conducted to Italy: scarcely had we out-stripd Rhyneberg (where Collonell Edmond was slaine) a Dutch mile, till we were both robbed of our cloaks and pocket-moneys, with five souldiers French and Vallones; and that within a Village, women and children beholding us, but no man to relieve us, they being with Carts serving Spineolaes Campe.
[The fabulous miracles of Culloine.] Whence the next day approaching Culloine, and bills of change answered, wee visited the falsly supposed Tombes of the three Kings that came to Bethleem, who as the Romanists say, lye interred there. O filthy and base absurdnesse for their holy Mother Church to confirme hellish and erronious leyes; for these Kings came from the East, and from Chaldea, and not from the North: Or if they wil have them to die there and so buried, surely this is even such another damnable errour, surpassing tradition, as their wandring Jew, the Shoomaker of Jerusalem is, of whom in Rome, they have wrot ten thousand fables and fopperies: from this we visited the 11000. Virgins heads, Martyres, indeed we saw the Church-walles all indented about with bare sculles, but whose heads they were, the Lord knoweth; from thence a Gentleman brought us to a Chappell, within a Vineyard, called the Chappell of miracles; the originall whereof was thus. Upon a festivall day, being Vintage time, there came a Peasant to the Towne, and passing by the Vines (as there is a number within the wals) did eate his belly full of the grapes; and thereafter hearing a Masse, was confessed, and received the Sacrament: And returning the same way he came, and just where he had eaten the Grapes, [A forged and false miracle.] hee fell a vomiting, and casting up with what hee had eaten the Holy Sacrament, it straight turned in the likenesse of a new borne Babe, being bright and glorious. Well, the amazed fellow, run backe and told his Confessour, what was done, and his offence who had eaten grapes before the Reception of the Eucharist. The Confessour told the Bishop, where he, and other Prelates comming to the place, and beholding as it were an Angell, grew astonished.
In end they wrapped up their little dead god, in a Cambricke vayle, and there buried it; building this Chappel above the place: where ever since there is a world of leying miracles done: Loe these are the novelties of Culloine.
Thence ascending the Rhyne, and coasting Heidleberg, I saluted the Princesse Palatine, with certayne rare Relickes of the Holy Land. And leaving Mounsieur Bruce there till my returne, I went for Noorenberg to discover the sixe Germanes death, whom I had buried in the Desarts, and Grand-Cayre of Ægypt, for the two Barons were subject to the Marquesse of Hanspauch: Where having met with some of their Brethren, Sisters, and Kinsmen, and delated to them their deathes, I was presently carryed to their Prince the Marquesse, to whom I related the whole Circumstances. Whereupon a brother of the one Baron, and a sister of the other, were instantly invested in their Lands; and I likewise, by them all great regarded and rewarded. And after ten dayes feasting, reviewing Heidleberg, mine associate and I set forward for Helvetia, or Switzerland.
This Countrey is divided in thirteene Cantons, sixe whereof are Protestants, and sixe Papists; the odde Canton being likewise halfe and halfe. The most puissant whereof is Bierne, whose Territory lying along the lake reacheth within a League of Geneve. The people, and their service to most Christian Princes, are well knowne, being Manly, Martiall and trusty faithfull.
Here in the Canton of Bierne neere to Urbs, wee went and saw a young Woman, who then had neyther eate, [A woman fasting fourteene yeares.] nor drunke, nor yet excremented for thirteene yeares, being truely qualified by her Parents, Friends, Physitians, and other Visitors. She was alwayes Bed-fast, and so extenuated, that her Anatomised body carryed nought but Sinew, skin, and bones, yet was she alwayes mindefull of God. And the yeare after this time, her body returned agayne to the naturall vigour, in appetite and all things: and married a husband, bearing two children, dyed in the fifth yeare thereafter.
The day following, we entred Geneve, where sighting the Towne, the chiefe Burgo-masters, the seven Ministers, and the foure Captaines were all familiarly acquainted with me, with whom in diverse places, I daily feasted and discoursed. The Ministers one night propining me with a Bible, newly Translated in the Italian tongue, by one of them selves borne in Milane, told me there was a Masse-Priest sixe Leagues off, a Curate, of a Village in Madame du longeviles Countrey, who had gotten in his owne Parish, three Widdowes, and their three severall Daughters with childe, and all about one time: and for this his Luxurious Cullions was brought to Dijon to be Executed: Desiring me to go see the manner, the next day (leaving Master Bruce with them) I went hither, and upon the sequell day, I saw him hanged upon a new Gallowes, as high as a stripad: The three mothers and their three Daughters were set before him, being Gravidato, whose sorrowfull hearts, and eye-gushing teares for their sinne and shame, were lamentable to behold: the incestuous Bugerono, begging still mercy and pardon for dividing their legges, and opening their wretched Wombes. Lo there is the chastity of the Romish Priests, who forsooth may not marry, and yet may mis carry themselves in all abhominations, especially in Sodomy, which is their continuall pleasure and practise. Returning to Geneve, and acquainting the Magistrates with his Confession, for they are great Intelligencers, I wrot this literal Distich:
Glance, Glorious Geneve, Gospell-Guiding Gem; Great God Governe Good Geneves Ghostly Game.