Part 25
There is a great commerce here with exceeding many nations, for by their concurring hither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers: for the Countrey aboundeth in Silkes, Cornes, Fruits, Waxe, Honey, and the soveraigne Balsamo good for all sores, besides many other commodities of Cotten-wooll, rich Stuffes of cloth of gold and silver, and the best Sattins, Damas, Taffaties, and Grograines that are made in the world are here.
The infinite populositie of which place, and the extreame heate, is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: insomuch, that at some certaine times, ten thousand persons have dyed in one day: Nay, the City is reputed to be in good health, if there dye but one, or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole yeare, I meane, when the soare encroaching pestilence, which every third yeare useth to visite them, is rife here.
[Divers nations residing in Cayre.] In this Towne a Traveller may ever happily finde all these sorts of Christianes, Italians, French, Greekes, Chelfaines, Georgians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, Syrians, Armenians, Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, Slavonians, captivat Maltezes, Sicilians, Albaneses, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and their owne Ægyptian Copties; the number of which is thought to be beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turkes, tawny Moores, white Moores, blacke Moores, or Nigroes, Musilmans, Tartars, Persians, Indians, Sabuncks, Berdoanes, Jewes, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian Sarazens. All which are Mahometans, and Idolatrous Pagans.
From the great Palatiat Mansion, where the Begler-Beg, or Vicegerent hath his residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have the full prospect of the better part of the Towne, the gardens and Villages bordering on Nylus, and a great part of the lower plaines of Ægypt. Their Lawes heere and Heathnish Religion, are Turkish and Mahometanicall, and the Customes and Manners of the people, are like unto their birth and breeding, beastly and Barbarous; being great Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abhominations.
The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdom [The Egyptian decorements.] over, weare Rings of gold or silver, through the hollow of their noses, both endes of their mouthes, and in their under lips; hanging rich pearles, and precious stones to them; wearing also about their armes faire Bracelets, and about their ancles below, broad bonds of gold or silver. To which if the baser sort can not attayne unto, then they counterfeit their Betters, with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds of Brasse, Copper, Lead, and white Iron, and thinke themselves not worthy to live, unlesse they weare these badges.
They also use here, as commonly they do through all Turkey, the Women to pisse standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the like. They weare here linnen breeches and Leather bootes as the men do, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gownes, wee would hardly know the one from the other. [The Egyptian Christians.] As for the Religion of the Copties or Ægyptian Christians, they are Circumcised, after the Judaicall manner, but not after the eight day, but the eight yeare. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by Dioscorus and the Counsell of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the Copties them selves say, they have their Religion from Prester Jehan, and so it is most manifest, being no difference betweene the one and the other.
They make frequently at all meetings the signe of the Crosse to other, thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and then on their breasts, and kissing them, the salutation is done.
[The Copties Religion.] They will not suffer no Images, nor Pictures to be in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kinde of Masse, sayd in their owne Language, sacrificing the Ostia, for the reall Body and Blood of Christ: Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints, and Prayers for the Dead, &c. Neverthelesse auricular Confession is commonly used among them: so do the Greekes in all these poynts the like, and all the people Orientall.
The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematicall Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and Astrologians, and are yet [The nature of the Egyptian Moores.] indued with a speciall dexterity of Wit; but somewhat sloathfull, and given to Ryot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable Companions; and no wonder, the Land being so plentifull, and their nature libidinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate affections. Neyther doe they live long, in regard of the great heate they indure. Ægypt being placed betweene the two Tropickes, under the Torrid Zone, bringeth to passe, that seldome will any there attayne to threescore yeares of age.
In all this Land of Ægypt, which is a great Kingdome, there is no running Well or Fountayne, save onely the River Nylus: Neyther do the Inhabitants scarcely know what Raine is, because they seldome see any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them, it bringeth to their bodies innumerable soares and diseases. And yet for abundance of Cornes, and all kind of fruites the Earth yeeldeth, there is no Country can brag with Ægypt; whereupon it was called in the time of the Romanes, as well as Sicilia, Horreum populi Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdome produceth no Wines, neyther is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of are brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece. The defect being thus, these Mahometanicall Moores observing strictly the Law of their Alcoran, wil neyther plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accounting it a deadly sin to drinke Wine, but for Coffa, and Sherpet, composed Liquors, they drinke enough of.
[The Garden of Balsamo.] As for their Balsamo, the Garden wherein it groweth, lyeth neere to the South-side of Cayre, and inclosed with a high Wall, being sixe miles in compasse, and daily guarded by Turkes. To which when I came, being Conducted with a Janizary, they would not suffer me to enter, neyther any Christian, & far lesse the Jewes: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this Balme was brought to confusion; they having the custody of it for certayne yeares.
The Tree it selfe is but of three foote height, which keepeth evermore the colour greene, having a broad three poynted leafe, which being thrice in the yeare incised in the body and branches; it yeeldeth a red Water that droppeth downe in earthen Vessels, which is the naturall Balsamo.
And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desart, is the place called Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut foorth of a Rocke, whereunto the Corpes of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which dead bodies remayne alwayes unputrified, neyther yeeld they a stinking smell: Whereof experiments are plentiful at this day, by the whole Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought from thence, and doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The colour being very blacke, and the flesh clung unto the bones.
Now having viewed, and review'd this Microcosmus of the greater World, the foure French Pilgrimes and I, did [The pyramides of Egypt.] hire a Janizary to conduct us to the great Pyramides, surnamed the Worlds wonders; which are distant from Cayre about foure Leagues, standing beside or neare to the bankes of Nylus: Where, when come, I beheld their proportion to bee Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller to the toppe, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part whereof, are five foote broade, or there abouts, and nine in length, beeing of pure Marble.
All the Historians that ever wrot of these Wonders, have not so amply Recited their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the Beholder, may testifie their excessive greatnesse and height. The first and East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans skilfull Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty sixe foote. The Basis, or bottome whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuite, allowing every square of the foure faces three hundred paces, and every pace two foote and a halfe. Every Pyramide, having outwardly to ascend upon (though now for the most part demolished) three hundred foure score and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foote high, and two foote and a halfe broad. By which computation, they amount in height to the afore-sayde Relation, allowing to every foote, twelve inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest Pyramide to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the broken degrees here and there: I was much ravished, to see such a large foure squared plat-forme, all of one intyre stone, which covered the head; each square extending to seaventeene foote of my measure.
It is yet a great marvaile to me, by what Engine, they could bring it up so safe to such a hight: But as I conceive it, they behoved certaynely still to rayse it, and take it with them, as they advanced the Worke, otherwise the Wit nor power of man, could never have done it. Truely the more I beheld this strange Worke, the more I was stricken in admiration: For before wee ascended, or came neare to this Pyramide, the toppe of it seemed as sharpe as a poynted Dyamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would have contayned a hundred men.
[The greatest piramide of the three.] In the bottome whereof we found a great Cell, and within that through a straight and narrow passage, a foure angled Roome; wherein there was standing the Relickes of a huge and auncient Toombe, where belike hee that was the first Founder of this Pyramide was inclosed. From the top of this Pyramide, our Jannizary did shoote an Arrow in the ayre with all his force, thinking thereby it should have fallen to the ground; but as we discended downe-wards, we found the Arrow lying uppon the steps, scarse halfe way to the ground: From this, wee came to the middle Pyramide, which a far off looked somewhat higher then the other two, but when we came to the roote thereof, wee found it not so, for the stone-worke is a great deale lower, but the advancement of the height, is onely because of a high ground whereon it standeth.
It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend upon, neyther hath the third Pyramide any at all; being by antiquity of time, all worne and demolished, yet an admirable worke, to behold such Masses, and (as it were) erected Mountaines all of fine Marble. The reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so diversly conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were first called Pharaones.
Yet the first and greatest is said to have beene builded by Cheops, who in this worke imployed 100000. men, [The charges of the greatest pyramide.] the space of twenty yeares: In which time, the charges of Garlick, Rootes, and Onions onely, came to 1600. talents of silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It is recorded by Josephus, and conjectured by many good witnesses, that the Bricks which the Children of Israel were inforced to make, were partly imployed about the insides of these Piramides, whose outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I forget the drift of that effeminate Cheops, who in end wanting money did prostitute his daughter to all commers, by which detestable meanes he finished his building, and shee besides the money due unto her unnaturall Father, desired for her selfe of every man that had the use of her body one stone, of whom she got so many, that with them she builded the second Piramide, almost equall to the first. Besides these three huge ones, there are a number of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome in the time of her supreame domination.
Betweene the biggest Pyramide, and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one Marble stone, erected on a round Rock: It is of height (not reckoning the Columne) above 815. foote, and of circuite, 68. Pliny gave it the name Sphingo, and reported much more of the bignesse, largenesse, and length of it: but howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve my selfe, it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one intire peece) the world affoordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the rarest wonders: Some say, that aunciently it was an Oracle, the which so soone as the Sunne set, would give an answere to the Egyptians, of any thing by them demanded.
In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed us (on the banke of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed the yeare before, by the ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the Bassaw. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was never seene in that River, whose body was twenty two foote long, and in compasse of the shoulders, eight foote, who thus was slaine: This beast for foure yeares together kept alwaies about one place of the River, being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there was no tillage nor pastorage, being for feare of him layd wast: and neverthelesse he had devoured above forty sixe persons: his custome was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight houres; where here and there he would lurke waiting for his prey till ten, for longer from water he could not stay.
[A resolute Venetian Merchant.] This Venetian leaving his ship at Alexandria, and comming to Cayre, was informed by the Consul my adversary of the great spoyle done by this beast: and herewith generously he undertooke to kill it, the Vicegerent licentiating him: Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner, and a peece of Ordonance to Cayre.
The next day in the afternoone, hee being well horsed, and accompanied with twenty Janizaries, the peece is carried to the Crocodiles accustomary place, of forthcomming: where straight there was an Asse slaine, and hung up on two standing and a thwarting tree, with his open belly to the flood, and some twelve scorepaces therefrom: Behinde this carkasse, about other twelve score, the piece was planted, and levelld at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a traine of powder about the touch-hole, and above it a night-house to keepe the trayne dry from the nights serene: having a cock fastned thereto, and in it a burning match, to which a string was tyed: Then forty paces behinde the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner; wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head vayled with a wooden covert.
After this, and about mid-night, the Horse-men retired themselves two miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile courts the land: where when he saw the carkasse, came grumbling to it, and setting his two foremost feet on the Carrions middle, begun to make good cheare of the intrales: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving his time, drew the string, [The killing of a great Crocodile.] and giving fire, off went the piece, and shot the Crocodile in three parts: well, he is deadly wounded, and making a horrible noyse, the Gunner lay denned, and durst not stirre: meanewhile the beast striving to recover the water, tyred, and lying close on his belly there he dyed.
After the shot, the Horse-men drew neare, and finding the beast slaine, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstruous creature to Cayre; where now his skinne hangeth in the Consuls Hall, which I saw during my stay in his house. For this piece of service, the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City 500. Sultans of gold as a reward for his paines, which they freely offered him, and he as freely refused.
Now to discourse of Nylus, this flood irriguateth all the low playnes of the Land, once in the yeare, which inundation, beginneth usually in the latter end of July; and continueth to the end of August: Which furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the onely drinke of the vulgar Ægyptians; and of such vertue, that when Pescennius Niger saw his Souldiers grumble for Wine, What (sayth hee) doe you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nylus to drinke. And now because many schollers, and learned men, are meerely mistaken about [The true knowledge of the flowing of Nylus.] the flowing of Nylus, I will both show the manner and quality or cause of its inundation, and thus. There is a drye pond called Machash digged neare unto the brinke of the River, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eighteene Cubites height, being equall with the profundity of the Ditch, whereby they know his increasing: and in the yeare following if they shal have plenty or scarcity of things.
Now betweene the River and this pond, there are sixe passages or spouts digged through the Banke; where when the River beginneth to swell, it immediately fals downe through the lowest passage into the pond, and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre, certayne of the Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hundred Janizaries, and pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time of the Inundation, they make great Feastings, rare Solemnities, with Dancing, Singing, toucking of kettle Drummes, sounding of Trumpets, and other ostentations of joy.
Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so it groweth also upon the Pillar standing in this pond, which pillar is marked from the roote to the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foote, a span, and an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise but to ten Brasses, it presageth the yeare following there shal be great Dearth, Pestilence, and famine. And if it amounteth to twelve Cubites, then the sequell yeare shal be indifferent. And if it swell to fifteene Brasses, then the next yeare shal be copious and abundant in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top, eighteen Brasses, then all the Country of Ægypt, is in danger to be drowned and destroyed.
[Many Schollers mistaken about Nylus.] Now from the body of Nylus, there are above three thousand Channels drawne through the playne, on which passing Ditches, are all the Bourges and Townes builded; and through which Channels the River spreads it selfe through all the Kingdome: Which when scoured, of filth and Wormes, and the water become cleare, then every House openeth their Cisterne window, and receiveth as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inundation: Neyther doth ever the River flow any where above the Bankes, for if it should, it would overwhelme the whole Kingdome.
All which Channels here or there, do make intercourse for their streames agayne, to the body and branches of Nylus. Now Stoicall fooles hold the opinion, that it overfloweth the whole face of the Land, then I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestiall, their Cornes and fruites? for the nature of violent streames, do ever deface, transplant, and destroy all that they debord upon, leaving slime, mood, and Sand behind their breaches, and therefore such inunding can not be called cherishings.
There are infinite venemous Creatures bred in this river, as Crocadiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous mis-shapen Wormes, and other Monstrous things, which oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who Trafficke on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Æquinoctiall Line, from montes Lunæ, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Æthyopia interior, whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Ægypt, and in a place of the exterior Æthiopian Alpes called Catadupa: The fall and roaring of Nyle, maketh the people deafe that dwell neere to it.
[The reason of the flowing of Nylus.] The infallible reason, why Nylus increaseth so every yeare, at such a time and continuance, is onely this; that when the Sunne declining Northward to Cancer, and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these Cynthian mountaynes, the abundant Snow melteth: from whence dissolving in streames, to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nylus so long as the matter delabiates: For benefit of which River, the great Turke is inforced, to pay yearely the tribute of fifty thousand Sultans of gold to Prester Jehan, least he impede and withdraw the course of Nylus to the Red Sea, and so bring Ægypt to desolation: The ground and policy whereof, begunne upon a desperate Warre inflicted upon the Æthiopians by Amurath, which hee was constrayned to give over, under this pact, and for Nylus sake.
The River Nyle had many names, for Diodore named it Actos, to wit, Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights: It was called too, Ægyptus, of a King so named, that communicated the same to it, and to the Countrey.
Festus, sayth it was called Melos, and Plutarch tearmed it Mela: Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is, running, or coulant in gold. The Holy Scripture tearmeth it Seor or Sihor, to wit, Trouble, because of the great noyse it bringeth with it to Ægypt; and the same Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Ægyptians wont to name it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Ægypt, name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long course.
[The Ile of Delta.] This River maketh the Ile of Delta in Ægypt; so likewise in Æthiopia, that Ile of Meroa so renowned. The ancient Authors, could not agree, touching the mouthes of Nylus; for Melo, Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seaven; Ptolomy, and others nine; and Pliny eleaven. And some moderne Authors affirme it hath onely foure, as Tyrre and Behou alleadge, dividing it selfe two leagues below Cayre in foure branches, the chiefest two whereof, are these of Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight severall mouthes, and as many branches drawne from its mayne body.
The Water of Nyle is marvailous sweete, above all others in the World, and that proceedeth of the extreame vigour of the Sunne, beating continually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer, and Simple; as likewise arrousing of so many Soyles, and his long Course.
And truely it is admirable, to see this River to grow great, when all others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So alwayes it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so increase, when even here, and at home, the river of Rhone, hath the like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Towne of Geneve, and so to the Mediterranean Sea: Their beginnings being both alike; from the impetuosity of raynes, and dissolvings of Snow.
Ægypt was first inhabited by Misraim, the Sonne of Chus from whom the Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue Misroiæ. It was also named Oceana, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Osiriana from Osiris; and now Ægyptus from Ægyptus the surname of Rameses, once a King of great puissance. [The confines of Egypt.] It bordereth with Æthiopia, and the Confines of Nubia: on the South. On the North with the sea Mediterrene: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta, and Alexandria, towards the occident, it joyneth with the great Lake Bouchiarah, and a daungerous Wildernesse confining therewith, supposed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wilde and venemous beasts, which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the Istmus, and Confine of Desartuous Arabia, and a part of the Red Sea, through which the people of Israel passed.