Part 2

THE FIRST PART

See Rome discover'd, Italy made playne, The Roman Library, a golden gaine: Hunns old Parthenope, with Venice met, And strong Brundusium, in Ottranto set: Times rich antiquities displayd abroad On circling Cume, Avernus lying odde: And Lorets Chappell, foure times beene transported On Angells backes, from Nazareth detorted; Where for discourse, on this false forged Lady, To tend you with inveiglings, shall be ready: Thus piece and piece, from soile to soile, I'le goe, And now begin, the end will deeper growe.

It was a wise saying amongst the Auncients, that thrice happy and blest was that Kingdome, when old men bore sway and ruled the State, and young men travelled abroad: The first by long experience prudently to execute judgement; and the latter by sight and knowledge of forraine soyles and lawes, growing more judicious; might when come to age and preferment, the more facily, and dexteriously exhibit Justice at home. But what shall I say to these moderne and dissolute times? when by the contrary meanes, travell is sleighted, government abused, and insinuating Homelings, thrust in high offices, incapeable of them, being pratling Parrots, and sounding Cymbals: who convert sound Judgement and Justice, to their owne greedy respects, and selfe mercinary ends; turning their chiefest felicity to avaritious ambition and vaine glory, and their sweetest fortunes, to their belly and their backe. O miserable and effeminate age! when vertue by most men is despised, and neglected, and sensuall vice every where exalted: Nay; ruffian Pandors, by hopefull youth and prodigall gallants, are now clothed, Coatched, and richly rewarded; whilst best merits and highest deserts, of rarest spirits, are neither looked to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation, and examples sake, of their valerous designes, let them thinke upon latter passages, nor worthy to be thought upon, and they will finde this future caveat to stand needfull, Hæc olim meminisse juvabit. So likewise now every Capri-cullion from Cæsar, to the Pascorell, can crowd and chawe from his warbling waspishnes, this stinging censure of absurd untrueth, that Travellers and Poets may lye & lye by authority, which they themselves performe at home without leave.

[Concerning sinistrous censures.] By which traditional concession, I being absolute in the first, and borne to the Muses, as to the World, a mungrell to both; may have a lawfull (unlawfull) liberty assigned. Any marvell? if men in this kind be so injuriously censured, when the very Gospell it selfe, by perfidious Atheists, Formalists, Sophisters, Romish-rabines, Nullifidians, and Schismaticall Sectaries, is quartered, mangled, and rejected; such be the Satanicall opinions of this hell-borne age: Whose confused conceits, blasphemies, incredulities, and imaginary devisions, have shamefully stained the better part of this now best World. Nay, good and godly Kings, so pricked at, and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant villaines, as though their royall and just lives were the meere inordinate paternes of all impiety, and lewdnesse. Sith therefore the Sacred Scriptures, the gods of the earth, Ecclesiasticke columes; yea the name and fame of the most righteous alive, be thus diversly taxed, and vituperiously calumniated; can prevention in me, escape the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury? No, I have had already the assault, and newly prepared, patience proofe to receive more, wrought by the piercinghammer, of nineteene winters, as many Summers deare bought toyle. Let venome-thundring Crittickes, contumeliously carpe, infernall firebrand Cerberans barke, and the hell prepared off scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have aheart can smile, at their backbiting malice, a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes, and if present, the weight of understanding truth, to confound their blind absurdities with reason. As for chamber complementers, whose vast insides, like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo, are become threed-bare, having their outsides onely adorned with rich ornaments.

Such serving Cyphers, cypher childish censures, And shallow scal-patch'd pates, have forebald tonsures. Yet touch a C. flat in his face he'le start As though a Dame, had grac'd him with a ------ Whose wringes, winks, whose curious smiles & words, And scraping feete, lost blandement affoords: Whence pride and lust, become two servile Mineons To top his thoughts, with false and fond opinions: Then happy they, who least frequent a Court, Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport.

To such bellowing caves winded with the borrowed rags of patch'd-up Commedies, clouted complements, stolne Phrases, and lip-licked labours, of lamp-living spirits, to such hollow Tombes, I say a tush for their kindnesse, and I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour, or do homage to any of them: And this much for the misconstruous lack-judgment of emulating cloudes, No Courtiers. And as concerning the impostrat quagmires of this abortive age, wherein so many Simonaicall Matchevilians, mercenary parasits, and arch-betraying Sicophants live, vindicating themselves excessively, upon the advantage of time, I insufficient I, to dive in such bottomlesse businesses, bequeath them onely to their owne repining consciences, just tryalls, and ignominious rewards. To satisfie the World in my behalfe, as touching my travells, I sincerely protest, that neither ambition, too much curiosity, nor any reputation I ever sought, from the bubling breath of breathlesse man (whose [The reason why the Author begun his Travels.] defective censure, inclineth, as instigation, or partiality, moveth his weake and variable opinion) did expose me to such long peregrinations and dangerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands conjecture the cause, as many the manner; ten thousand thousands the effect: The condition reserved, I partly forbeare to penetrate in that undeserved Dalida wrong; and reconciled times pleading desistance, moderate discretion inserteth silent patience.

The mansuet cup, the gods consuetly drunke, In me involv'd, straight hony-gald it sunke: That sweete Ambrosian Nectar, soundly wrapt In my lock'd closet, suspitious Envy trapt; And fierce-eyd Jealousie, wingd with wind Pierc'd staring Argos, turned his hundred blind: Mycene-fancy fraught, Lusts fond alarmes, Cros'd eye-stard'd Sparta, rapt with Phrigian charmes: And teare-rent Sophyre, Synon-like betrayd What votall oathes, loves sterne fort, ne'er bewrayd But high-bred drifts, the stormy fates, grim night And gloomy Hellespont, rob'd Heroes right: As Illions destiny, forc'd Numidias Queene To gore a Scepter, a Diadem in teene: So haplesse I belov'd, O passion strange! May as amaz'd, admire, that time, this change. I chang'd a Wolfe, once for a tusked Boare, And changing Beast for Beast, triumph'd the more: Strained to assume, in countercambiat breath, A dying life, revert in living death: Translate it so, my Metaphore is such, That Time, nor I, nor Fortune can avouch: Thus Passion whirling in a cloudy Vale, I trancing flye, I fall, I hovering scale: And whilst from Phleg'ran fields, the weirds me call, I in Elisean plaines, am forc'd to fall; Wherein some flowry faire enamild ground I'le place my Tombe, mine Epitaph shall sound, Of traine-shut sluces, of the Thespian spring, Where chatring birds, Dodonean trees do sing: And mild Hydaspes streames do gently flow, There shall my Lesbian layes, sad Liricks shew. And where the Borean Roses strow the Hall, Where flot-glass'd Nymphs, the Circe-fled Greeks enstal; There shall shrill Triton sound, Armilla's staind, Whom foule affection preyd, and Lucre gaind; Load with the filth of dallying Lust and Sin, Where bloody murther, like a Theefe creept in; Yet shall the spotles Heart, triumph in trueth, When worth reapes fame and vertue conquers youth: And crowne Dorasmos, faith-plight Delphian Bayes, With more then Lawrell praise, immortall rayes. Than brass-brou'd Fiends, accurst by Minos doome, Flee Fairy flight, to Pluto whence you come; And tast Phlageton, Lethe, court Proserpine, Sterne Radamanth attends, such stinking vermine; There Hippolitus, slaine Pirothous stay Neere t'Acheron, (all faithles lovers way) To welcome Fiendly, fright Eremiall guests With flame-flash'd firebrands, sulphur scorching tasts: Chaynd fury-brangling, in remorseles paine, Where Belzebub, and Lucifer remaine. In this umbragious Cell, there lurks a hound To beare Sarpedons Scepter; helpe to sound Your Cleopatran clamours; and I thinke The Ferrier Charon, makes such wretches drinke Upon the Stigian bankes. Then gnashing Spirits That howling waile, Hells inexpugnat merits: Where's all your gentry? for I dare conclude, That vertue's better borne, then noble blood: This Epitomizd Epilogue, I send To them who best can censure't, there's an end.

But by your leave, let me enter into consideration of the intractable passage of my malecontents past, and these importunate designes thereupon ensuing: And thus, have I, in the late dayes of my younger yeeres beene grievously afflicted? Ah; yea; and with more then desastrous injuries overclowded, O heavy under-prop'd wrongs. But hath not the like accident befallen to man before? yea; but never the like condition of murther: Nay, but then preponderate seriously this consequent? may not the scelerate hands of foure blood-shedding wolves? facily devoure, and shake a peeces, one silly stragling lambe? yea, and most certaine, that unawares, the harmelesse innocent; unexpecting evill, may suddenly bee surprised by the ambushment of life-betraying foes. All this I acknowledge; but whereupon grew this thy voluntary wandring, and unconstrayned exyle? I answere, that being young, and within minority, in that occurrent time, I was not onely inveigled, but by seducements inforced, even by the greatest powers, then living in my countrey, [A Dialogue betweene the Author and Himselfe.] to submit my selfe to arbitrement, satisfaction and reconciliation. But afterward growing in yeeres, and understanding better the nature or such unallowable redresses, and the hainousnesse of the offence; I choosed rather (voti causa) to seclude my selfe from my soyle, and exclude my relenting sorrowes, to be entertained with strangers; then to have a quotidian occular inspection, in any obvious object of disastrous misfortune: or perhaps any vindicable action, might from an unsetled ranckour be conceived. O! a plaine demonstrate cause, and good resolution; for true it is, that the flying from evill, is a flying to grace, and a godly patience is a victorious freedome, and an undaunted conquerour over all wrongs; Vengeance is mine (saith the Lord) and I will repay it. To this I answer; mine eyes have seene the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night-gaping foes, are trampled under foote, whiles I from strength to strength, doe safely goe, through the firy triall of calamities. My consolation arising from his eternall dictum, quos amo castigo, whom I love I correct: And to say my part in my soules experience,

I never find affliction fall on me Without desert, for God is true and just: Nor shall it come, and without profit be, For God is good, as mercifull I trust. Then welcome all afflictions sent from God, He whom he loves, he chastneth with his rod

And as one of the Auncients speaketh well, Adversa corporis, animæ remedio sunt, ægritudo, carnem vulnerat, sed mentem curat: The affliction of the body is wholesome phisicke for the soule, it woundeth the flesh, but cureth the spirit. Certaine it is, that the Lord in chastising his owne, doth often move the wicked reprobates of his wrath, to be the instruments of his correcting hand. I could involume, as large a discourse, upon this heart-grieving project, as upon the late intollerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governour, and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine; being in quality, though not in quantitie alike. But constantly containing my selfe, within the precinct of patience, referring such eminences to the Creator, which in a part belongeth not to the creature; I may sigh to this world, as sorrowfull Æneas to his Dido.

Infandum Regina, jubes renovare dolorem.

Thou wouldst, I should renew my former griefe To speake of sorrow, helplesse of reliefe: He melts in woes, who uttereth griefe with words, Whilst deepest streames, the greatest calme affords.

But now to proceed in my punctuall purpose, the nature of man, by an inward inclination, is alwaies inquisitive of forraine newes; yea, and much more affecteth the sight and knowledge of strange, and unfrequented kingdomes, such is the instinct of his naturall affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realmes together, but travell hath done much more; for first to the Actor it giveth the impression of understanding, experience, patience, and an infinite treasure, of unexprimable vertues: secondly, it unfoldeth to the world, the government of States, the authority and disposition of Kings and Princes; the secrets, manners, customes, and Religions of all Nations and People. And lastly, bringeth satisfaction to the home-dwelling man, of these things, he would have seene, and could not attempt. Travell hath beene in more request amongst the Ancients, then it is now with us in the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers, and learned Divines, how they have perigrinated to know the life of States, and the fashions of farre Countries, would be an endles taske for me briefly to relate. Many (I confesse) long to see the remotest Regions of the earth, but dare not undertake the dangers of sight, the chargeable expences of a tributary journey, the hard indurance of flint stones, for a soft feather bed, the extremities of thirst, nor the parching heat of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to be a humide coverlet to their tender skinne, with innumerable other insuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking Juno, would by a meere imagination, runne out the sleeping course of an endlesse peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped, is by a deare-bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a never contenting subject, a bitter pleasant tast, of a sweete-seasoned sowre, and all in all, what I found was more then ordinary rejoycing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights.

But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, I come to the reall adventure; After two voyages I made to the Orcadian, and Zetlandian Isles; in the stripling age of mine adolescency, and there after surveighing all Germany, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low-Countreys from end to end; I visited Paris, where I remained ten moneths. Divers contestions have I had, about the equality of London, and Paris, in quantity and quality: But having a more serious subject in hand than this [A comparison betweene London and Paris.] paralell, I conclude thus, the infinite shipping, and commodious navigation of London (besides their universall commerce)is more of value, then the better halfe of Paris: compare you the quantity, for there is the quality of the argument. Paris I confesse is populous, a masse of poore people, for lacques and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a noctuall den of theeves, and a confused multitude: Where contrariwise London is adorned with many grave, prudent and provident Senators, civill, well taught, and courteous people, and absolutely, the best governed City on the whole face of the earth, as well by night, as by day, and nothing inferiour in quantity to it.

From Paris in the yeere of God 1609. March 7. I set forward, being brought three leagues on my way, with a number of my Countrey gallants, young Aiton, young Hutonhall, and specially Monsieur Hay of Smithfield, now Esquire of his Majesties body, with diverse other Gentlemen: where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies, and farewell bid on both sides, I bequeathed my proceedings to God, my body to turmoyling paines, my hands to the burdon, and my feete to the hard brusing way. And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France, the Savoyean, & Ligurian Alpes, sith it is manifested unto many in this Iland, both by sight and report, I would shunne, so farre as possible I can, all prolixity of knowne, and therefore unnecessary discourse. Although I have a large reason, having cros'd the Alpes at sixe severall parts, onely, in the owne place, I meane to comment upon Italy in generall. Upon the 40. day after my departure from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of the which I will memorize, some rarest things, and so proceed. This City of Rome now extant, is not that old Rome, which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with the blood of his brother Rhemus, who disdainefully leaped over the new wals; and was once the mistresse of the universe, for her triumphs and antiquities, but is now only the carkas of the other, of which she retaineth nothing but her ruines, and the cause of them, her sinnes.

[The Antiquity of Rome.] Rome which Romulus first founded, contayned these two mountaines, Capitolino, and Palatino, with the valley lying betweene both hills: having three ports; the first was called Trigonio, because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount Palatin: The second Pandonio, because it was alwayes open, and for the commodity of the passage, it was called the free port: The third was called Carmentale of Carmenta, the mother of Evander who dwelt there: It was also named scelorata, or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines put cruelly to death issuing thereat.

Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height; the Gothes, a base and unknowne people, displaying their banner, against this glorious and imperiall City, in the end razed, and subverted their pallaces, equalizing the walles with the ground. After the which detriment, the overthrow, the late subdued Romans, recovering their ruinous habitation, were inforced to withdraw the situation of the Towne, a little more downe-ward, in Campus Martius, close by the bankes of Tibris; and transported the stones of these ransacked buildings, to reedifie their new dwelling places;

Hic ubi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silva, Tantaque res paucis, pascua bobus erat.

Where Rome now stands, was sometimes desart woods And soyle to feed some few-found bestiall goods.

And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe, the mother and nurse of worthy Senators, the miracle of Nations, the Epitome of the world, the Kingdome of Mars, and the seven headed soveraigne of many Provinces. [Romes seven Hils.] The seven hills whereon she stood, and now partly somewhere stands: for they are all contained within the vast bounds of the old walls, which as yet environeth the towne, are these, Palatino, Capitolina, Viminale, Aventina, Esquiline, Cælio, and Quiraneno. Which certainely do demonstrate the whoore of Babylon, sitting on the beast with seaven heads, and cannot be understood but of Rome, being builded on these seven hils: having a correspondence to seaven Kings who reigned there; and also acknowledging seven severall Rulers, Kings, Consuls, Decemviri, Tribunes, Dictators, Emperours, and now Popes. During the felicity of the Romaines, this Citty was never taken, but by the Gauls, which being recovered they made a Law that Priests (being otherwise exempted) should goe to warre, if ever the Gauls came againe, with whom they fought not for dominion, but for their owne preservation: But since it became pontificiall, it hath bene made a prey to all barbarous Nations, and never was besieged by any that tooke it not.

The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome, is not unlike to Jordan and Tagus; yet not so big as either of them, being all three of a troubled and muddy colour: But it is exceeding outragious, and often Manasseth to drowne the whole Mansions, as greeving to grace the wals of such a wicked and imperious place: Who having lost her former preheminent glory, and domination over the world, would now alledge and ascribe a second prerogative over the soules of men, the heavens, the hels, the silver-coyned Purgatory, the deposing and imposing of Kings: The former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword, the latter by presumption, Avarice, insinuation, and absurd lyes.

[Saint Catherines observation.] I remember of a pretty observation of Saint Catherine of Siena, who being stricken in devotion, went to venerate Rome, accompanied with a goodly traine; and having visited all the Monuments, supposed Holy places, and Religious relickes there, for the space of five dayes; At last she came to take a view of the Popes Palace, where having spent a whole day, strictly remarkeing the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants: She sawe nothing but abhomination, prophanation, and irreligious living, and worser then in Rome it selfe: Whereuppon suddenly the next day shee departed for Siena, being an hundreth Miles distant; pittifully bewayling her journey, and the miserable livers she sawe in Rome. Protesting alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death, that the Winde [Meaning of Sodomy.] never came from the East blowing Westward to Siena, but she thought the filthinesse of the Popes Palace, and the beastlinesse of Rome, ever stunke in her nose.

This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extravagant disgorgements, at that time when Pope Clement 8. was crowned Duke of Ferrara, anno 1589. and that same night he returned to Rome, Tyber waxed so proud of his arrivall, that impetuously inunding his bankes to make him welcome, he over-whelmed the better halfe of the Towne: And if it had not bene for the infinite charges of the Pope, and desperate toile of the people, the violent force of his rage swelling courtesie, had absolutely subverted and carried away the rest of the City. The like inundation was never seene of Tyber, as after this Coronation, portending, that as the first Gomorah was destroyed by fire, so this second Sodome should be sommerssed by water. The beginning of this River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills joyning with the Alpes Appenine: whose course is fourescore and sixteene miles; disburdening it selfe in the sea Mediterren at Ostia twelve miles from Rome. The mouth and haven whereof have beene long dammed up, to stoppe the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions, least the City should be surprised on a sudden. By which slavish Ecclesiasticke feare, Rome is shamefully defrauded of shipping and forraine trafficke; and if it were not for the Clergy, which are the two parts of the inhabitants, (besides the Jewes and Curtezans, which are the greatest implements of the other third part) it would become the most miserable towne in Italy.

And notwithstanding that for the space of 12. miles round about Rome, there are neither Cornes, nor Wines, nor Village, Plantage, or Cultivage, save onely playne and pastoragious fields; intermingled at all quarters with auncient watch-Towers being an old policy of the Romans, to prevent any sudden surprise of their enimies; insomuch that at my first view of Rome, I imagined the people were all famished, or in danger of famishing.