Part 17

[Mesopotamia.] Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordred with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath beene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it, can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spices, that are brought over land from Goa, & other places in India, which draweth a concurrance of all nations to it.

[A notable obedience.] Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the great Turke, by the great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere, or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeare before my comming hither, he had revolted against his Emperour, and fighting the Bassawes of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The yeare following, and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Showse, and two Janisaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia: The messengers make hast after him, but in their journey they met him comming backe to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe hundred Horse-men. Upon the high way they delivered their message, where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achmet was, that if he would acknowledge his rebellion, and for that treason committed send him his head, his eldest Sonne should both inherit his possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.

At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to resist the invincible Armie of his Master, and his owne presence, he dismounted from his horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to dye, being an old man, to save his race undestroyed, and to keepe his sonne in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate downe upon his knees, where the Showse [The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded.] stroke off his head, putting it in a Boxe, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead corps were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye witnesse to that funerall feast: And immediatly thereafter, the Showse by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne in his Fathers lands, offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey; for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and power of all the other Bassawes in the Turkes dominions; except the Bassa, or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in hereditary power, farre exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene Sanzacks, and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Janisaries, and other inferiour souldiers, which would make up as many more.

This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2. Sam. 8. 3. and Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milke, whereof there is a great plenty here: There are Pigeons brought up here as after an incredible manner, who will flie betweene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes [Flying Pigeons with letters.] journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in the time of hasty and needfull intendements; their education to this tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was the second Winter after my departure from Christendome.

[Syria.] Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee and Phoenicia: In the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander: after whose death this Countrey, with Persia, and other adjacent Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians, Armenians, Romanes, Ægyptians, lastly, by the Turkes, and dayly molested by the incursive Arabs.

In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of my desired aimes) I pretended to visite Jerusalem in my backe-comming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Janisaries, and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safegard (being alwaies alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that he should protect me safely from theeves, cut-throates, and the exactions of tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at Jerusalem: Which being done, I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company [A Caravan of Armenians.] were about 900. Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes, men and women: 600. Turkes trafficking for their owne businesse, and 100. souldiers, three Showsses, and sixe Janizaries, to keepe them from invasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine dayes journey, in five of which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had beene builded for the support of Travellers, and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then midway, we had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with rocky mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages, and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes; but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another, in great heapes; in danger to be smothered: yea; and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our conducting Turkes. In this journeying I remember the Turke who ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting the Italian Proverbe.

Chi mi famiglior, che non ci suole, Ingannato mi ha, o ingannar mi Vuole.

He that doth better now, to me than he was wont, He hath deceiv'd, or wil deceive, me with some sad affront.

But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and [Pagan flattery.] flattery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried with me, I freely bestowed a pound thereof upon him: Which he and his fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had beene a pound of gold, for they are excessively adictted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot: which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their favour, over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use: for in these dayes I tooke none at all, though now as time altereth every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joynd in three parts, with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receaving at once, a whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the long pipes, the smoake is exceeding cold in their swallowing throates.

At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selves, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that were stifled with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me: For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate; their usage being such, that when they come from the horse backe, presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them, when they repose, dine, and suppe. So doe also their Artizans and all the Turkes in the World sit allwayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lye on, nor chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on, but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from the floore, spred over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sit eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans be named Turkes, because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore they call [Turkes are called Musilmans.] themselves Musilmans, to wit, good beleevers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but certainely for firme beleevers they are wonderfull constant; and so are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard, who in the midst of all his evills, yet he remaineth alwaies fidele to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crowne can compasse.

They never unclothe themselves when they goe to rest, neither have they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seene hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine, in a beastly stie, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.

Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the mountaines) we entred in a pleasant Plaine of three leagues of length, adorned with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision for our selves and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever; that come to Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to weary and extorted Travellers.

[Damascus is called Shamma.] Damascus is the Capitall Citie of Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is situated on a faire Plaine, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other naturall objects of elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities, and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralelled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a Garison of Turkes lie continually keeping that tree Mouslee, whereon as they alledge the forbidden Aple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled, keeper of the terrestriall Paradice.

[The antiquitie of Damascus.] Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so: for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee, it is a pleasant and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle, wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in Winter from the raine.

The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy: Their Bazar, or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there is a Moskie called Gemmah, wherein my Guide shewed me the Sepulcher of Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street, I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Celler under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in a basket: In the street where they fell their Viæno, my Interpreter shewed me a great gate of fine mettall, which he sayd was one of the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered Jerusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced to leave it here, being indeede a relicke of wonderfull bignesse: And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold, as beere or wine is rife with us.

This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the City of Antwerp. The onely best Shables, or short crooked swords, that be in the world are made here; and so are all other their weapons, as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Arrowes, and Baluckoes of steele, that Horse-men carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long, their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they use to braine or knocke downe their enemies in the field. [The forces of the Bassa of Damascus.] The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having under his authority (as he is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks, and they conducting under all the aforesayd three, forty thousand Timariots or Horse-men, besides two thousand Janizaries, which are the guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the Citty. His Beglerbership extendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes Foelix and Petrea, Phenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Judea, Jerusalem, Idumea, and al the Northerne parts of Arabia Desartuous, even to the frontiers of Egipt.

The meanes of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an induced confidence upon the power, and force of those Timariots who as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time of tranquillitie, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes, and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet, and well formed manner of living; but are continuall spoilers of these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth, rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse of their owne dispositions: [Savage Arabian Robbers.] So that every one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly & cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts, living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity, more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind together, doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affricke, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots, which defend the frontiers of Ægypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes at Damascus (save onely our Janizaries and Souldiers) within the space of two houres after our departure from thence travelling in the way to Jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trench man, what newes? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christianes should have) in great regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,

More like some relict, of exstirpd decay, Than for a monument, reard for the way. To blaze on Pauls conversion: yet it's true The worke was done, even by the Christiane Jew, Or Jacobine: a circumcised kind, Who beare to franks, a most respective mind:

Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilie, which is the beginning of Canaan: in two of which three, we encountred with marishes and quagmires, being a great hinderance to us: This barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming in with a point betweene Galilee, and Syria, running along even to the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre more than Jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean Countrey it selfe, devalling even downe to the limits of Jacobs bridge, cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground, till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plaines.

[A dangerous way.] Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very theevish way; for as we travelled in the night, there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, and our souldiers had their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood Carnes in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was aunciently divided in two regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whether Moses fled to, and kept sheepe; and Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.

Divers of these Petrean Arabs, converse, and dwell amongst the Turkes; whom we tearme in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence, lieth Arabia Fælix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsamo, Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearles, especially about Medina, the second Citie to Meccha: The other Townes of note are Horan, the chiefe Port of the South Ocean, And Alteroch, the only Towne where Christians are in greatest number in that Countrey.

Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these [Arabia Petrea.] Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qualitie, and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine; who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watch-word of St. Johanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or whisper after that warning under the paine of a Harquebusado. And no more we durst, unlesse he had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe (when occasion served) of liberty, least by our tumultuous noyse in the night, our enemies should have the fore-knowledge of our comming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some severe punishment. Him selfe rod stil in the Vangard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Janizaries, and forty Souldiers, and the other foure Janizaries and sixty Souldiers, were appointed to be the backe-gard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus, most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolencie, but with prudent and magnanimous virilitie: for my part, I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deserving mind: yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endevours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard, yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward to seeke a redresse. For oftentimes an [A corrupted Caravan.] inconvenience is most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure, and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show, must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like were rather imployed, as their imployments rewarded, and therefore in unlawfull things they must sucke the honey of their owne preposterous ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my tributes, by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more then reason, to the Moores, Turkes, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly backe from them the over-plus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made my Trenchman tell me, that I might be fore-seene therein.

But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he cannot be contented, unlesse he seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and winke at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my selfe to be under his protection, I alwayes endeavoured my aimes so, that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary favour: insomuch, that in danger, or securitie, he would ever have me neere by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my owne safety.

The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppresse my owne weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit.

But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the after-noone, we entred in Galilee, passing along a faire Bridge, that is over the River Jordan, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee. [Jacobs Bridge.] This Bridge by the Armenians, is called Jacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where Jacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Jacob, to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Jordan is scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place, I shall more amply discourse: Betweene Jacobs Bridge and Jerusalem, we had sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable, in regard of the great tributs I payd by the way for my head, that at sundry places and into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage twelve Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay, than a Pilgrime; the admiration onely resting upon this, how I was furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.